(Topic ID: 274955)

Addams family weird issue

By Jmckune

3 years ago


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2019-02-02 14_20_45-WPC ribbon cable to reseat - Paint (resized).png
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#1 3 years ago

So I’m having a weird issue with Addams Family on route. The only time it does it is when the swamp is lit for lock. During normal play if a ball goes into the swamp, it comes back out of the scoop weather it enters from the shooter lane, thing flipper, or directly in scoop. If the swamp lock is lit, the ball will go in and the DMD will say ball locked for multiball then it says “watch swamp for kickout” the flasher and the swamp thunder noise happen but no ball. It does 2 ball searches before it ejects another ball into the shooter lane. Is the swamp even supposed to kick out a ball when it’s “locked”? And if not why would it display that message. A way to stop the ball search and make it function correctly would be nice. I’d like to think it’s a switch issue maybe the part that locks the ball in the swamp isn’t registering?

#2 3 years ago

I'd go into Tests - Switch Edge - and ball trough, shooter lane, swamp switches. Be sure they all work smoothly. And the correct switch registers on the DMD. To see you don't have a switch out of position and not registering in the right order.

Go over the stand up targets by the swamp too. Make sure none of the lugs or wires are shorting to each other or metal.

LTG : )

#3 3 years ago

I know there are several switch errors on it and it’s been a minute since I’ve actually checked what they were mostly thing errors as we had to completely remove that mechanism because the motor died and haven’t been able to shell out $300 for a new one yet.

#4 3 years ago

Had similar problem and turned out to be trough switch sticking, but can also be the switch in the swamp is a little high and ball is not rolling over correctly at times, or an obstruction in swamp, lastly check you have correct amount of balls in the game, good luck
Randy

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

thing errors as we had to completely remove that mechanism because the motor died

Did you open it up ? Clean out all the old grease and put in new ? If a brass gear was slipping on a brass collar, you can silver solder it.

The gear case is riveted together. Nuts and bolts work fine to reassemble.

LTG : )

#6 3 years ago

Have not opened it yet. What’s weird is it is only a year old so it was odd to me that it already died.

#7 3 years ago

Also not sure if it’s of note, when trying to manually move the hand. It feels locked In place disconnected. Now I seriously doubt the motor is that strong so maybe something is seized up inside

#8 3 years ago

the problem is the trough.
- may the second switch (in the middle) isnt working correctly or/and
- the next ball in the trough is blocked by the ball release kicker arm.

i had both issues and the same symptom.

heinz

#9 3 years ago

So I went in and looked at it today. The ball eject is getting held up by the next ball and knocks loose after about 3 flipper hits. The spring seems like it doesn’t have much spring left in it. The switches are not being contacted by the eject arm and are working perfectly. The weight of the ball is enough to temporarily hold the eject arm in the up position. Guess I need a new coil sleeve and maybe a stiffer spring If that doesn’t do it.

5 months later
#10 3 years ago

Hi. First time using this site. I have a display issue on my Addams Family game. The display works fine most of the time. But randomly mixes the pixels up and displays garbage when the games goes into a feature mode. I checked all connections into the display and on the display board and even gently cleaned the board. Really goofy since the display works fine most of the time. Any ideas on how to further diagnose? Any suggestions greatly appreciated as I do not live near any pinball specialists.

ADDAMS_Issue1 (resized).jpgADDAMS_Issue1 (resized).jpgADDAMS_Issue2 (resized).jpgADDAMS_Issue2 (resized).jpg
#11 3 years ago

I always start with doing a re-seat of all the ribbon cables in the backbox, when that happens. Most of the time that's enough to fix it.

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from Classe:

I always start with doing a re-seat of all the ribbon cables in the backbox, when that happens. Most of the time that's enough to fix it.

Ditto here. Good advice. Follow the ribbon cable from the DMD to the PCB board in the back box and start with that board. Also, sometimes reseating the ROM chip will clear up the problem. Good luck and welcome!

#13 3 years ago

With power off, reseat this ribbon cable.

2019-02-02 14_20_45-WPC ribbon cable to reseat - Paint (resized).png2019-02-02 14_20_45-WPC ribbon cable to reseat - Paint (resized).png
#14 3 years ago

Thank you. I tried reseating the ribbon cable, but unfortunately it did not help. I got the color dmd mod and hoping this will fix the problem.

#15 3 years ago

I think, even with a ColorDMD, it will remain the same. I don't think I ever seen a DMD ever cause all those type of issues.

With power off can you reseat it again, the 2 connection ribbon cable next to it, and also press on all the IC chips that are in IC sockets on the CPU board. You will hear some creaking as you press on the parts. You will no longer hear anything once they are seated well.

#16 3 years ago

Thank you and you were correct, the color DMD did not fix the issue. I reseated the ribbon cables and will press on all the IC chips to assure they are seated. Any chance it is the Adams Chip since the issue seams to be focused on Adams specific events. I am contemplating trying an Adams Gold set, and it seams easier than find out out how to test each board.

#17 3 years ago

Try that first. I have not ran into an ROM issue causing this type of problem.

Have any other games?

#18 3 years ago

Next I would go into display test. If you get data or page errors. Try to do a reseat of the RAM-chip on the display-board.

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from Classe:

Next I would go into display test. If you get data or page errors. Try to do a reseat of the RAM-chip on the display-board.

Many times I had this still turn out to be the same 4 ribbon cable connections as I had posted about earlier.

Just saying that page test failure and RAM is not the definitive solution.

#20 3 years ago

I really appreciate the advice and helping me keep thIs game functioning. I have tried re-seating all chips and ribbon cables, but problem still present. After running the display check I got several page error codes, “B<1> 1 12 , B<1> 3 12, B<1> 9 12”. Is it time for a new DMD Board? Or other suggestions? Thank you.

#21 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Have any other games?

Waiting on that answer. I would not suggest a new one even if you can prove ilthe board is bad in another game. I would suggest sending it for repair. Be nice to find a person local to do the repair. You definitely would be better off.

Sometimes even with these ribbon cables, have to reseat them several times to get the good connections.

I hope on any board connector that you unplugged a ribbon cable from, that the male header board pins are not bent. Can you have a look at that?

Always best to prove a faulty board or cable in a known working game before sending for repair or replacing the board.

#22 3 years ago
Quoted from Classe:

Try to do a reseat of the RAM-chip on the display-board.

The RAM chip was soldered in at the factory. So unless by chance it was replaced already, it would not be in an IC socket.

#23 3 years ago

I actually had a Addams showing crap om the display. Changing the RAM solved the issue.

#24 3 years ago
Quoted from Classe:

I actually had a Addams showing crap om the display. Changing the RAM solved the issue.

Yes, I believe that. I am just saying that this does not look like a typical RAM issue. Normally see a few dots or blocks just on at all times. Just rare I seen RAM issues in 14 years working on many WPC games.

This is just why I like to see the board cause the same problem in other game before I bother changing the RAM because the traces and pads are smaller than usual and easy to damage.

#25 3 years ago

Thanks again, I do not (yet) have any other games I can swap the board to confirm if it has issues. I was searching for board repair/replace and found TNT in Pennsylvania. Looks like they repair boards. Anyone had success with them, or other skilled shops to send the board to?

2 weeks later
#26 3 years ago

ChrisHibler repairs boards and is very active on Pinside. I would send the MPU and DMD controller boards at the same time for testing and NVRAM install.

#27 3 years ago

Thanks, how do I identify the MPU board?

I plan to send the boards to Chris

#28 3 years ago

Page 2-3 shows #8 MPU and #12 DMD Controller are the boards.pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#29 3 years ago

Wow, great diagram!!! Thanks a ton for the assistance. I love this machine and cannot thank you enough for answering my posts. I wish I had as much to contribute.

#30 3 years ago
Quoted from Erikr:

Wow, great diagram

Ugh..straight from the manual page 2-3, as previously mentioned.

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