I just finished bending a set and it isn't too bad (if you have the playfield and rails). The hardest one is the diverter support bracket. I'll post a picture of one of my failed attempts if you think it would help.

By the way, all of those 02-4426-1 posts probably need spool spacers on them if you didn't already know. Here's a link to them at pinballlife.

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0052-00

Looking good!

You can drill it with a regular drill bit just make sure you don't drill through a trace. Put a sacrificial piece of wood behind it and drill away. My set had the same missing holes and there was one board that had not had the contacts tinned. Small issues to fix but you'll definitely want to address them.

I ordered them from PSPA.

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/a-17838-1.html

It took a while for them to get here .

Beware of the dimpling on CPR play-fields. They aren't always in the right place to make the mechanics and lighting work correctly. Many are but I would recommend test fitting first and drilling/fastening where the part fits best. Just my 2 cents.

Great job so far!!!

You don't need to bend that one. It goes to the left of the wire guide that is beside it. My CPR gold TAF playfield only needed to have the holes for the bolts made slightly larger (just like most of the other holes ). Hope this helps.

NoahFentz That cabinet looks AMAZING!!! Sorry Covid is causing problems...

Do you cut the speaker panel for TAF too? I see one in the pics you posted but haven't seen it as an option on your website.

NoahFentz This is fantastic!!!!! Thanks!

or just order one of these from pinshakers

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1206-pinshakers/03613-the-addams-family-thing-led-light-board

Here's a link to HEP's restoration of a TAF cabinet. It has the exact location for the TAF playfield pivot holes.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/32#post-4728213

Yes, you need standoffs. The parts list calls for 31 of them. You'll also need the screws that go with them. I think they #8-32 1/2" machine screws

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=20-9534

I couldn't tell if you had the extra flipper power supply board.

https://www.thepinballwizard.net/electronics/electrical/addams-family-extra-flipper-power-supply-board-a-15416/

Even if you are using Fliptronics II, It is excellent for supplying power to the Magnet high power board. Reducing the +50V load on the driver board.

Here's a picture of the completed start button with lamp holder and switch. I'm using Fliptronics II so my flipper switches look different than yours. Hope it helps.

TAF Start Button (resized).jpg

Here's a pic to help with the plumb bob...hopefully

TAF plumb bob (resized).jpg

It looks like the weight is upside down. The narrow part of the "cone" side should be just inside the ring. It can be raised more to make the tilt more "sensitive".

Great Job so far!

Have you already done the GI circuits? If not, I recommend starting with this.

Does your GI harness have the sockets on it? If not, you can use something like this https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-2-lead-socket-with-short-mounting-bracket-for-stern-gi-lighting.html. Marco is out of the ones I used (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5002-00)

On the switch and lamp matrices, make sure you have the diodes oriented correctly on the sockets and microswitch terminals. I can send pictures if you need them.

Yes you can use 44/47 (bayonet) lamps for much of the lighting. The only 555 bulbs (blades) in TAF are in the backbox (including speaker panel *THING*), start button, the 5 playfield lamp circuit boards and a couple of plastics assemblies (GI for telephone and upper left flipper).

The wiring is scary to think about, BUT once you get started its not too bad. I spent a lot of time dreading my wiring work but now that I'm almost done it doesn't seem quite so daunting.

Since you have harnesses, your wire routing should take care of itself. The only potential hassle is that the bundle of wires may get in the way as you work your way through it.

I'd advise taking breaks between wiring work. Don't try to do all the harness at the same time. Wire up GI one day. Comeback another day and do the controlled lamps. Another day work the switches. Another day work the flashers. Another day work the low power coils. Another day work the high power coils. Another day work the motors and magnets...you get the idea .

Keep it up you will get there!

You can also search through HEP's thread. He does a great job of documenting things. He's done a few TAF machines and was one of the primary sources that I used when building mine. Just search his thread for TAF or Addams

Looking Great!!!

Just in case you aren't aware, there is a somewhat obscure support bracket for the diverter. Kerry at mantis made some. https://mantispinball.com/product/the-addams-family-diverter-support-bracket/ . Hopefully you already know about this one.

Keep going! You are doing great!

This Marco part is for the coil and actuation assembly (coil, crank, spring etc.). The part I am talking about is the vertical one that connects to the playfield and to the ramp that keeps the diverter shaft supported. Hopefully the picture helps.
vertical diverter support (resized).jpg

I used https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/05-89W (white) for the dual flashers under the insert in the pop bumper area.

You'll need the "wedge" type for the ones in the domes on the top of the playfield (ramps and plastics). I used https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/05-906W and https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/05-906R color matched to the inserts or dome (white and red)

Hope this helps. Your bottom side is looking GREAT! Keep it up!

I always thought it was to enhance the illusion that thing is in the cabinet manipulating things. He occasionally comes out of his box to grab a ball and activates the small left flipper for an automatic swamp shot. It would definitely be fitting if it was a knock from a coffin.

I'll throw my 2 cents in here to try to help too. These three switches are in same general area relative to each other (center trough, Left Out lane and Left flipper lane 1). If 76 and 77 work, I think you can rule out the green/violet wire for Column 7 unless it is not connected well to switches 75 and 78. For 75 and 78, It seems it has to be the White/Green (75) or White/Gray (78) connection at these two switches. Since all of the other Row 5 and Row 8 switches are working it has to be something with the connection of these white/ wires to these specific switches.

I have to think the same is true for switch 16 (center trough). The other switches that use Green/Brown (column 1) and white/blue (row 6) are working so it has to be the connections specifically to the center trough switch.

As for what you are seeing on the switch edges test display. The grid represents the switch matrix. Your display is showing that Column 2 Row 4 is closed or switched on/activated. In the TAF switch matrix this switch is supposed to be "Always Closed". It is also showing Column 3 Row 5 is closed. This is the lower Jet bumper switch this could just be an adjustment that needs to be made to the leaf switch to ensure it only activates when the bumper skirt is hit by the ball or pressed with your finger. the other active switch is column 8 row 4 (Thing Down Opto). I don't think you have worked the optos yet so there may be a short at this location.

If you notice there is a column of dots to the left and right of the 8X8 grid. These represent the Direct connection switches (D). These are coin switches test/menu switches and flipper switches (buttons and End Of Stroke EOS).

DumbAss may be the smartest person I've ever consulted on this stuff. He always has good advice and a wealth of pinball/electronics knowledge.

Good luck and keep it up. You will get there sooner or later.

If you are still not sure what the edge test is showing you, I'll try to help with that. If you do, please feel free to ignore this.

The switch edge test doesn't "step" through the switches like the solenoid test or lamp test. Rather, it looks for a change in any switch's state (from off to on or open to closed). When the MPU detects that a switch has been activated, it will display that switches number and the colors of the wires that are connected to it. When you enter this test mode, even the test buttons on the back of the coin door will be displayed. The image you posted shows D1 OPEN and Org-Brn Black. This is telling you that the last switch or button that changed was (according to the switch matrix in the manual) the default (I assume) Left Coin Chute. If you activate a different button like "START", it will change to 13 Grn/Brn Wht/Org it will say closed while the button is held down and change to open when the button is released. You will also see Column 1 and Row 3 activate and deactivate in the matrix display. The same is true for all of the other switches as well. It will give you the information that is captured in the switch matrix from the manual (or at least it should).

You will more than likely have to repurpose another WPC apron. I stripped and painted a Fishtales apron for my build. If you go this route, just make sure not to get an apron set up for a kick back on the left outlane.

Keep up the great work!

Here’s a fish tales that can be repurposed. I know this one works/fits. I purchased mine from this same company.

https://coinoppartsetc.com/product/games-parts-pinball-machine-parts/williams-fish-tales-pinball-machine-game-apron-4225-for

The scoop is the entrance to the vault the angled part sticks through the square hole behind the bookcase. The underside guides the ball into the plastic subway.

The plate with the 3 holes attaches to the back side of the backboard and supports the back metal flange of the large metal thing box that goes around the thing motor and hand.

The ramp flap with the notches is the entrance to the shooter lane ramp

The longer ball guide is cut off in the picture so it is hard to say where it goes and I’ll have to look at mine to try to guess where wire guide goes

Have you considered using NVRAM? I’ve converted all of my machines so that no battery is required.

Just a suggestion.

HEP demonstrates what he does for chair install starting here..

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/25#post-4693475

This helped me with mine. He uses a heat gun to get the bracket to slide into the back and enlarges lamp holes a bit.

I've got 4 of these coming from PSPA....eventually. US Customs lost the first shipment. USPS sent the second shipment back to Melbourne. The guys at PSPA put a third attempt back in the mail last week.

If I get it. You can have 2 of them.

If you think it would help, I think I can provide a file so you can look at this in 3D to see where the bends go. Let me know if you have a preferred format. I can also take snapshots from various angles in the CAD program I used.

Those guys are awesome.

Kerry rocks!!! I wish he had these when I was trying to scrounge parts for my scratch build . He did make the diverter support bracket for me (based on my CAD)

I'll have to double check the wire colors BUT the motors are wired to the EMI boards which are then wired to the Power Driver Board. I can't tell if you have the EMI board connected or not. I believe the violet/violet yellow go to the EMI board and a red/black harness goes from the EMI board to the +/- terminals on the motor. I'll double check this for you when I can get to the manual.

Hopefully this picture will help with the motors/EMI boards. The red and black wires go the the positive and negative motor terminals respectively.
TAF EMI board wiring (resized).png

Those violet wires do not go to either motor. the violet/violet stripes got hte the kickouts, knocker, diverter and thing magnet. violdet yellow goes to the ball release near the trough.

Ignore this post please --- Violet green goes to the outhole kicker also part of the trough mechanism(s)

My appologies the Blue Red and Violet Green go to the Thing eject hole where thing picks the ball up behind the vault.

This image should help.

solenoid flasher motor diagram (resized).png

Yes, much better.

If the unconnected wires are a question too, the vio-grn/blu-red goes to the Thing Eject Hole kicker. It is the coil mounted at an angle (usually white).

Keep it up. It looking good!

Doesn't matter for NON flipper (3 lug) coils. Just be consistent from coil to coil. Again this doesn't apply to the flipper coils.

Just making sure you saw that you need to remove the diode from the start button switch. There is a diode on the coin door interface board that serves that function.

Not that this is the issue with your one switch but there is an “always closed” switch that is “built-in” to the coin door interface board. It is switch 24.

I’ll have this for MM soon. I also did a set for HS2.

wallybgood thanks for the kind words.

MM is currently a work in progress but rest assured I will share it when it is done

I may have mis-read an earlier post but the lamp harness you have is for controlled lamps. a separate harness is used for GI.

The GI color in question is indeed violet rather than blue.

Please ignore this post if you already go tthis info.

keep going! you are almost to the finish line!

- Cary

Shredder,

FYI the extra flipper supply board looks like it is upside down. If it is that way for a reason, its fine. if you turn it around, gravity will help the screws stay in the mounting holes .

I recognize that image . Hopefully you have all of them. If not, I can provide them.