If you are on Facebook, there is a closed group for WPC remake builds. Lots of the guys have made drawings and such of the unobtainable parts. wallybgood might be able to help you.

Fyi I am building a scared stiff from a playfield. I'm using homebrew controllers based on OPP and pinmame for the ROMs. Over a year and a half or so, I've picked up every assembly that was individualized. The rest is generic or can be manufactured. It's not impossible.

I think building it from scratch would be better than fixing an existing one.

A source for several parts: https://mantispinball.com/product-category/addams-family/

Just an idea. I opted to forgo the original WPC circuitry on mine. I used a modified Open Pinball Project(OPP) system to control the playfield and then used a Raspberry Pi 3(about to switch to the much more powerful Pi 4) with Pinmame to emulate the ROMs. I'm doing all of the coding myself, so it's going slow but steady. I've got the machine driving the DMD and the switches and solenoids are driven via I2C serial I/O chips from a Teensy 3.5. It's a similar setup to my homebrew game, with the Pinmame swapped for Mission Pinball Framework.
So, if you weren't keen on figuring out the wiring harness, there are options. My Scared Stiff wiring will look very different from a stock machine.

I would agree. Pick a subsystem, wire one piece, make a note of it, on to the next.
I was simply offering a second route if the OP wanted it.

4k? Doesn't that vpin place sell a flat pack for $99? The rest of the odds and ends can't be more than $200, and I'm stretching to say it would cost that much. I picked up a used sys 11 head with parts that could sub into a wpc for $20.
This has to be sarcasm

Bundle them as you go. Zip tie the finished wiring, use stand offs with wire holders. Include wiring tags before the connectors. Write out your tags before wiring so you aren't trying to remember the tag->component mapping in the middle of the work.
I tend to be pathologically disorganized, so I recognize the problem and build work habits around it.

My apologies for an unwarranted assumption.
That's an impressive backbox. You should create a thread for your work.

You know that there are groups of people doing this on a regular basis, right?

I've got 4 active projects. I swap between them as my interest changes and parts arrive. I'm shopping a Baywatch, almost done rebuilding a basketcase Blackout, working on my own version of Stranger Things and a playfield up build of a Scared Stiff(with custom controller boards running with a pinmame emulation). The OP's project seems tame compared to the sisyphean task I've set myself.
So, yes, if you just want a running pinball machine, buy one. If you just want to experience a rebuild, buy a busted one. But if your groove is big, crazy projects where you create something... well, I get it and I'm rooting for you.

Amen. I've used wire color to track down things before, but it was once out of many, many times(rewiring a drop target from scratch). Always double check the connection.

I assume that you are having them build a TAF cabinet with the backbox and decals, right? If not, you should. They can handle drilling all of the correct holes and assembling everything correctly.

How does that change things? He can always resell the parts, but if they go out of stock before he finds *hard part X*, he's stuck anyway. I started with a sweet Scared Stiff playfield and ended up with every mech(well, I have to make a coffin diverter, but aside from that...).

Not at all. He's using licensed items, used items and self manufactured items to build a machine. He's not a manufacturer, and he's not marketing it as an original or remade version of anything.
It's akin to the various motorcycles that are Harley clones. You can build a motorcycle that is functionally identical to a Fatbob, and Harley would have zero to say. You could sell it, too, even hundreds of them in this case, as long as you aren't marketing them as Harley brand. That's the reason all of those Harley clone garages can be in business, and companies like S&S can make clone Evo parts.
In this case, the closest you could get would be a copyright claim on the ROM image. And if he uses an original WPC mpu or a licensed replacement, then he even avoids that. Even trademark claims would not likely stick if he were not party to the manufacture of items for sale. And I doubt that there are any patents on the particular pieces in AF.

I built one out of a couple of sawhorses that I picked up for free. Took about $20 and an hour on top of that.

Have you seen the links I PM'd you? There are some caches of TAF parts on craigslist.

Has anyone ordered from this site? https://4rcustomswire.com/t/18-gauge-gxl

What about this stuff?
https://www.sherco-auto.com/striped-tracer-wire.html

Type III Class K tinned copper
Marine grade stuff

They have a limited selection of 22 as well on that page.

It's inevitable, but also entirely able to be overcome. People are coming together to source these parts, having them made when there is no other option. It's not easy, per se, but it's also not impossible. Thanks to the hard work of people like wallybgood these scratch builds are becoming easier to implement.

I would imagine that you start by getting a measurement from the connector to the first item in a circuit(a row and column) and get that working. Then, run the next row and column. That's 3 new items. Test, and move to the next layer. That's 5 new items. Continue until you are at 8x8. If you test each new layer of components as you go, you will minimize the number of tests while isolating the problems to a single new row/column combination. If you use your own colors, create your own matrix and keep it with the machine. Maybe laminate a note and put it in the machine to help any techs who might be working on it in the future.

As a side note, since my from scratch build is heavily customized at the controller level, I have to do this anyway.

My pleasure. If not for your work on ball guides, I would be stuck until I get to get under the glass of another Scared Stiff to do a lot of measurement. Your contributions are invaluable.

You will indeed need to bend them. You'll want to set up a small brake and a slip roller if you have the money/space. Some of it can be done with a vise. A lot of the larger bends can be done by hand, if you are careful(roll it back and forth against a thick dowel rod, for example). It's better to approach the bend slowly rather than try to nail it on the first round.
Something to review: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/making-new-ball-guides-from-scratch-vids-guide

Buy the whole assembly from pinball life, and get the right coil stop(there is a table on that page):
https://www.pinballlife.com/full-flipper-assembly-for-williamsbally-machines-from-021992-to-101998.html

Yeah, as others have said, look at the manual to verify the coil. Eos should be there default one, iirc.

Send a message to wallybgood and he'll help you.

Yes, you definitely need spacers for the boards.

Use Mouser/Digikey/Jameco for common electronic devices(diodes, resistors, etc). Use the manual to find the specs, then order accordingly. In some cases, the replacement part is not completely clear or has been replaced with something better(MOSFETs and diodes come to mind). Ask around for those. Otherwise, it should be fairly straight forward.

Nice work!

That needs to go in the pinball horror pictures thread. Damn sorry to see it. At least it is widely available.

If you want color but want to skip the colordmd, you're other option is this: http://vpuniverse.com/forums/files/file/5534-the-addams-family/

You'll have to buy or build a pin2dmd board and set it up.

Never held me back. Granted, now I've got a sweet beard and I've been married for 25 years...so.....

I'm shorter than my wife. I'm sure that dating in the time of the plague isn't easy. Good luck, sir. We're rooting for you!

sendcutsend is awesome. I had them cut a set of Scared Stiff guides.

I believe there are some floating around the WPC builders facebook group.

It was posted in the thread earlier:

It's invite only, so ping wallybgood

Use a small tack in the middle of the braid to hold it for stapling.Remove once it's stapled.

Only if it is actually severing the ground braid somehow. Otherwise, it's fine. Maybe a little ugly, but some of the wiring from the factory was ugly on occasion.

Well, that's the factory setting sound, so you are getting a boot. Congrats!

You can start debugging the DMD here: https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Display_problems

If it's upside down, then maybe the power and/or data cable are upside down.

Maybe I missed this happening. What do you mean by this? Like, you knocked out part of the display itself?

Ah. No, you will have dead pixels, but it shouldn't stop it from displaying. Try turning the cable from the AV board the other direction. It looks backwards to me.

https://www.colordmd.com/installation/ColorDMD%20LED%20Installation%20Instructions%20WPC%20WPC95%20Rev1.PDF

Also, you should be able to buy a new panel to fix that. Colordmd might have it. Otherwise, you'll have to hit up aliexpress.

The long cable feeding back to the AV board. Check both ends. Check the voltage.

Congratulations!

Dude, relish the moment. Look at everyone who said it was crazy(yeah, it was, but it's a GOOD crazy). But you made it work. You aren't done yet, but you are SO close!

Building any machine is a labor of love. When I run into trouble(I wired that diode backwards? Oh, shit...) and get grumpy, I click through threads like this to get my motivation flowing again.

I would love a KITT. My name is Michael, so I would totally have it greet me every morning.

I have a Johnny Mnemonic apron sitting around somewhere. Not sure if that's a fit or not.

Try replacing U11.

This man beat me to it
Yeah, fix that thing. It will be good practice.

Start here: https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC

You could easily fix it and either have a spare or sell it. At the very least, you gain some more skills and comfort in working on a machine at the board level. It's not rocket science, it's mostly just slow and steady deduction.

It might be a 30 minute soldering job. You could send it for repair, but you have already replaced it, so my strong recommendation is to use it to learn.