Im in the process of this as well but i have a head start as i have mostly populated playfield to start.
I built a few cabs years back that i have sold but i have my test cab that i first built and will be using that, its good but was just made with some unfinished plywood in certain places.
I will be building my own wire harnessses(all except playfield), light boards, speaker panels so if you plan on doing this and need something let me know.
I do plan on building a few more cabs in near future but probably just cheaper for you to go through virtual pins.

He doesnt do the WPC stuff as of yet

Im having some stainless steel backbox backboard panels A-14092-2 made up for some of my own projects. Not sure of cost yet but if you need one let me know.
I also have a extra backbox bare light board.

Just made a couple.. not too bad to make.
Have an extra one if interested. Next up to make are speaker panels and bottom u trim speaker panel sits in.

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Marco sells them

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24-8818

I have used these with no issues.

Not sure what to put a price on it as i wasnt doing for resale but if you want you can have it for $30 but with shipping from canada might not make sence price wise.
If you do decide to make them and need some measurement just let me know.
Pictures above are just with primer.....i painted them with a gloss white yesterday

I'm not aware of any templates available....i think you will have to provide him with an original harness he can work with or if someone has the time to make a template/drawing of original harness and hand that over to him.

#6 1-1/4" bugle head screw which is like a drywall screw. Make sure the holes on under side are countersinkind properly for this screw so the head sits flush or slightly lower than the wood.

Yup your right not exact same but next best thing that is readily available at stores. If i dont have originals i always resort to drywall screw....I find many screws in my trade usefull for pinball.

I have a few of these available if needed they are polished stainless and i also have swirled stainless....the only issue there is only one hole for the small extra flipper power board on far right but it will still hold it in place. If your using the fliptronics 2 board then you dont need to use extra board...Otherwise these will work in all WPC - WPC/S games
$75.00 CA

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I believe its invite only.

Still got ya covered there when needed along with light board

Agreed

You have the stand off clips already ......i sent them with the cpu board as well as screws but i mentioned they were a different length but will still work.

damn i have a couple...coulda shipped it when i sent him other stuff.
Probably cost more to ship from here than to make one. If someone has the tools out there its just a small piece if 3/4" plywood cut to a certain size the angle cot on top with an indentation that will need to be done using a router or could use a chisel as well. I can provide measurements if needed.
Either way let me know....if you don't mind paying for shipping you can have it.

Yes it is upside down
White side out

It will work, but instead of doing the continuous I would have separate pieces going to the playfield mounts, transformer, backbox and speaker coming off the horizontal main lines if that makes sense and would have run the back of cabinet high enough to go under back screen instead of V shape there just to have a cleaner look but at the end of the day what you have done will work fine.

HA HA all good but remember the cpu board doesn't have the cut outs for the extra flipper power board but there will be one there you can use to hold it which will be fine as its a tiny board. Ill be watching when you populate with boards and remind you then just in case.

looks good! You can remove the board posts from the bottom left and right of sound board as those will not be used for this machine.

If your ok with desoldering chip above ASIC then put the Nvram in but if your not then might want to hand it off to someone that can or use an external battery pack.

Only need one U channel for bottom.

If you remember in past conversation there is not the proper cut outs for the extra flipper power board. This template was taken from wpc after original addams family but you can use the one bottom right or left to hold the board in place and it has worked fine.

Way to go

Your power box needs to be over to the right more so the switch goes overtop of the cut out hole but you are also missing a switch spacer there as well. I would think Paul might have supplied for you but maybe not.

Here is a picture i took from one of Hep's machines that he is restoring. See that piece of wood under power box that is what you need. Basically it a piece of wood that is roughly 2x3 inches but can be made to your liking and will have a hole in it to accommodate the switch coming out from bottom of power box. The purpose of this is to keep the bottom of switch raised flush or higher than the bottom of the cab so you don't break the switch when transporting.

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https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SW-1A-192
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15361

You can just switch the wires around as well if easier. just make sure the positive is going to the banded side of diode.

I sold you the back board with 34 stand offs. The board i had made up didn't have the holes for the flipper power board but had it for the auxiliary driver board in games after TAF but you should have been able to use 2 of the existing holes for that to support the flipper power board as i did on mine.

On my new back boards I added holes to accommodate both auxiliary and flipper power boards.

I don’t have the machine anymore.