If you got that ball shooter from Marco good luck using it. I ordered one from there for my game and the angle that the shooter rod goes through on that one is slanted more downward than the original which made it unusable for my WPC refurbishment. Had to polish up the old one and reuse that.

Call them. They will fix it, I’ve had them resend my whole order when they messed up mine. Resent whole thing and covered the new shipping charge and got to keep what they sent already.

I’m thinking they must have a new packer or a disgruntled employee. My order was messed up just a couple of weeks ago. I ordered 5 diodes and a switch. I ended up getting 1 diode and a mystery object. The stickers on both bags and invoice were correct though, it was very odd. They resent the very same day after I called and my correct order was there in 2 days.
This is after previously having several orders from them which arrived on time and correct.

I don’t know how everyone else does it, but I prefer to get the bottom 100% finished outside of the cabinet and then drop the game in and work on the top inside the cabinet. I don’t have a rotisserie though so that probably explains that.

Backwards diodes will 100% cause the issues you’re having. A diode in the correct direction but shorted via bending causing a touch on the center lug will cause this as well. For example, the ramp switch from an Addams I worked on sometimes gets the diode bent out of shape from balls beating the ramp which causes a short to thing up or down into. Every time thing stops working, I know I need to check that switch. Finally redid the diode to be less susceptible to movement during the game and problem hasn’t come back.

No. I can’t remember the exact setup Addams is but if I’m correct, it uses a NO EOS setup. With that setup, the fliptrionics board will control the initial pulse without input from the eos if it’s not received. The NO eos is useful for if a ball hits it so the game can detect if the flipper is fallling and quickly reapply high power.

If you want, I can send you a video of what a successful THING test looks like. I had to rebuild a Thing motor and replace optics on one so I have that specific video

Sent you a PM. Answer that and I can get it to you!

The flipper EOS switches on fliptronics games are normally open. The opposite of most older designs. If you don’t wire them this way, you’ll get the affect you’d normally get with a normally closed switch with poor contact

They are LEDs, the only difference is the amount of them and the scatter pattern. People use them to light up darker areas and for a different look than regular bulbs. They are pretty pricey though. 89c for a regular bulb vs $13 per evo disk.

If your molex pins are popping out, either you aren’t inserting them all the way or you’re trying to do so upside down. You should hear and audible click when the pin is in the right position. It will not come out easily once it clicks.

The bottom (larger) part of the crimp terminal should be around the insulated part of the wire. This provides strength. If you crimp both of the tabs onto the stripped wire, you’re asking for a break.

Why would you not check voltage first before redoing an entire connector? It could lead you to a problem upstream and prevent you from wasting time on a connector

I….dont even understand what I’m looking at. Is that a wire that is connected to a diode which is connected to only one side of the lug?

Ok so I wasn’t seeing what I thought I was, I thought you had these wires running to the coils and not lamps. In that case, the connection is correct as they are controlled lamps. Only issue is they are hanging loose. I’m sure you’ll get it! Sorry for the scare!