Quoted from wallybgood:

Hey 565
I have a few more TAF guide bending pics/measurements on my OneDrive. https://tinyurl.com/uvz97tz
Sketches and measurements for A-15240, A-15241, A-15243, A-15250, A-15251, A-15374, 01-10427, 01-10654 courtesy of Greg Bitz. My 2-D sheet metal CAD's were based upon these. Thanks again, Greg.
Wally

Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Dear God no.
This.
https://www.hansonrivet.com/rivets/tubular-rivets/
If you need any riveting done, I'd be more than happy to do it for you. I've got the rivets and the tools.

Quoted from wallybgood:

Hey 565
IMHO, send the MPU to a knowledgeable board repair guy like Chris Hibler. You'll end up with a nice, like new board that can be used as a spare. I have seen these boards destroyed by well meaning guys that attempt repairs by "shotgunning" components. Board traces and pads are very fragile and require a higher level of soldering expertise.
Wally
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im using this tool with great results.
You can do double wire insertions as well as small gauge wire. If the crimp looks loose, just quickly re-crimp on the next smaller cutout.
The ratchet crimper holds the pin so you can insert the wire into the pin and then crimp it down:
https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-SN-28B-Crimping-AWG28-18-Dupont/dp/B00OMM4YUY/ref=sr_1_3_sspa
See a proper crimper in action:

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Nothing will happen.
Their purpose is to shift the high power of the flipper coil to low power just "before" the end of the flipper travel, or "stroke".
Testing is simple.
With the flipper button pressed, manually bat the flipper down with a firm swipe of the hand.
The flipper should automatically return to its extended position with full force.
Note:
If you put the high power source wire on the low side of the coil, and the low power to the high side of the coil (get the source wires reversed), it wont break the coil "but" the flipper will be "weak" and not hit the ball very far. Checking your voltages here is "recommended".
EOS switch adjustment is straight forward:
The switch is "NORMALLY CLOSED" to engage high power "UNTIL" the flipper gets near the end of its stroke.
The switch should open about 3/16" before the flipper bat reaches its absolute end of travel to engage "LOW POWER".
The gap of the EOS switch contacts should be 1/16" to 1/8" when the flipper is fully extended.
This is done so that you can capture the ball on a flipper and hold it for as long as you want, and NOT overheat the flipper coil.
Your coils are "dual wound" for this EXACT purpose. The primary winding has thicker wire for high power.
The low power (secondary winding), or "hold" power coil has thinner wire on the coil for low power.
One can visually see the differences by examining the coil winding wires at the lugs.
This is why the flipper coils have 3 lugs.
The separate windings "share" the common center lug (2 coil windings soldered on it) but have their own power lugs that accept different source voltages.
50 to 70 volts for high power (thicker wire side)
20 volts for low power (thinner wire side).
Note:
There is some debate on whether you need EOS switches at all on a Fliptronics system, as its a pulse operated system controlled by the computer.
I think the game plays better with them in.
Also if the engineers put them in, then I put them in.
With the EOS switches, if a flipper gets knocked down by 3 balls hitting it at the same time, it will slightly move but go back into position without having to release and the press the flipper button again because the high power will re-engage automatically as the EOS switch contacts close.