The first HUGE barrier you have without a donor - no wiring harness and good luck locating one which makes your project DOA
Secondly there are a few parts that appear to be out of stock every where - so you'd be up the creek there too
Trying to find a fairly clapped out TAF isn't tough, but finding one that isn't over priced for what it is .... is.
Generally all after market play fields suck to a certain degree. No dimples, mis-dimpled, off set holes drilled or no holes drilled. clear coat mediocre if not suckville.
Donor machine will likely need every single moving piece, coil sleeves, coil stops etc replaced/rebuilt.
You can have a factory spec'd cab made - have it painted black then you can add a set of Rad Cals

ROUGH estimate:
Based off a $5K TAF, ordering a new cabinet, new playfield clear coated, all parts rebuilt you're looking ~$10k if you do the playfield swap yourself. Add a couple grand if you pay someone else.

Pro's - everything is brand new and "should" hold it's restored value for several years to come (Unless CGC does a remake)
Cons - now you're in the TAFG price range or you could spend about $2K less to buy a super nice one that's ready to play.

Value won't be affected one iota by using decals. His other choice would be Rad Cals which I think are way cooler than using decals and equivalently priced.

Both have their own set of issues. I have a friend who does restoration swaps for a living and he actually tells people he charges extra for CPR swaps. a friendly suggestion, if you plan on keeping it then send it to HEP to get properly drilled and nutted. And personally if I was going to do that step I'd have him clear coat it as well but only if I WAS SURE it would eventually be used because you'll likely never get your investment back out of it as a barren playfield.

There's literally no point of this speaker system in Addams. I actually bought my TAF from the owner of one of the speaker suppliers here and he told me not to waste the money. He could've made made money but chose to be honest.

The only complaint I have is the unlit LED's are quite visible and it's super annoying to me. Waiting for Comet to come out with a tint shield designed specifically for this display. Using a normal tint shield sucks because it causes a double image "mirror" unless you bend down looking squarely at the display. Makes you feel like you're drunk when you look at it.

Nothing gives you a new set of eyes like a 6 pack will!
Just kidding, I've done that .... wow ... never again.

I get exhausted watching this process, I can't imagine what you've been going through. Pretty sure I was a bit of a nay sayer when you started this and I happily stand corrected

On a side note .... if you have a list of every part you've ordered for the topside and bottom side it would be cool if you posted it here. And if it isn't too personal, what's your total cost? I've been toying with the idea of building one and selling my current one. I'm speculating a person can buy a cabinet and the rest and assemble for ~$8K, (includes professional clear coat) and turn around and sell my current one for $10K.

Well, don't feel bad. I made the mistake of leaving things box laying in the bottom loose and my electric screw driver standing straight up.... aaaaand lowered the playfield. Yeah, I bent shit up and had switch issues. If it was fine before then it should be easy enough for you to find what is likely a bent diode grounding out or a broken solder joint. And thank you for the itemized list. I'm shocked I was about a grand off!

It's about figuring out what is bad on the board. See if either of these help you nail down what.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-down-for-the-count
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Check_fuses_F114_and_F115_message

At some point everyone has reached the "just want this over with" phase. You're so close, but slow down and adopt the mentality that if it doesn't look factory it's not good enough. This has been a ton of work which also increases the possibility of mistakes. If it were me, when I got the boards back and everything plugged in, BEFORE I threw power to it I'd break out the ole DMM and check for any potential continuity between the positive side lug and ground on every single underside component. New doesn't always mean good.

And a side note, since this is a scratch build - both "THING" lights require diodes on em. Those things can get raging hot so ensure you use whatever the hard plastic isolation tubing is called.

It'd been a long time so I cracked mine open. Indeed there is one cable not used. It looks like yours is correct as is.
Not sure why homepin added the header and RD did not.

20231013_085717 (resized).jpg

Hmmm, the switch/diode suggestion is odd (for me). I just replaced my start button assembly with one from pinballlife - neither of which had a diode on the cherry switch. Needless to say I don't get errors and yet it works just fine?

And THAT is why I brought it up!

Yep!

Go into switch edge test menu mode. Verify what is or is not registering. Press the start button multiple times and see if anything else registers with it. While you're in the menu bang on the playfield and see if anything else engages.

It takes a big set of brassy danglies to take on something this big not really knowing what they're doing.
I think everyone wants to see this poor sap win a round for once. I know I'm rootin for him!

Superior category does for sure exist. Even the playfield manufacturers have admitted the clear job they do is inferior to what Kruzman and others can do. It takes time that they simply cannot afford to invest on the product. If I ever get the bug to do a full resto on my TAF, bet your ass it'll have Kruzman glass!
Hah - very Dr Suess of me (Good business slogan for Ron - "bet your ass it's Kruzman glass"

I highly advise anyone that hasn't played on a professionally clear coated table - DON'T! It simply makes everything else feel subpar. It's crazy how the tonal change of a ball drop goes from a normal "thunk" to a muted "thud".

Anyway OP you keep going man! Super excited for you!

I'm here for the moral support. Keep going man, that sweet ass finish line is in sight!

If there was a she around, there probably wouldn't be a machine in front of you.