(Topic ID: 257696)

Addams Family - Scratch Build?

By Shredder565

4 years ago


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“This project is”

  • Ambitious 117 votes
    42%
  • insane 135 votes
    48%
  • will be undone by a official remake in a few months..:) 27 votes
    10%

(279 votes)

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Bryan_Kelly.
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#99 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

Is it possible to get a decent donor machine for $5,000 or under?

Depending on your location, yes.

2 weeks later
#249 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

Unless Otherwise I shouldn't, I was going to go with the middle option, Silver.
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/taf/
The only other one was a $1,000 marco specialties, IIRC...
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/36-20017
obviously more expensive. I think there was a $1,000 option floating around out there too..but If I can save $300's..again, is there any reason I shouldn't get the CPR one?

CPR would be fine. I've installed a couple of them and unlike what some say here about missing holes, etc., I can't remember having any issues.

#252 4 years ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

You know that there are groups of people doing this on a regular basis, right?

Thought the same thing. Wallybgood is on his 6th I think...MM, CC, MB, AFM, SS and working on TAF?

Just because you think it's crazy doesn't mean it is for someone else.

1 week later
#307 4 years ago
Quoted from wallybgood:

Wallybgood is accepting Old Style Beer in lieu of flowers.

You're a cheap date, Wally.

3 weeks later
#387 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

Just done. I copied and pasted the list, and I sent over a photo of the wire harness..saying it was a few joined together to make one. I wanted him to forward the list and photo over to the company to see how gung ho they'd be about the project. hopefully it won't take too long to get a response back.

There are three playfield harnesses. One is switches, one is lamps and the other is flashers and coils.

#393 4 years ago

I couldn't agree more. You just know there are a few really trashed TAF's out there. It's a matter of finding them.

12
#402 4 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

What parts are you still looking for?

95% of them.

2 weeks later
#477 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

case in point, from the images and video I saw, this goes here. but doesn't fit all the way. i'm assuming i might have to drill some of them a little to fit properly.[quoted image]

Yes. You'll have to drill a number of through holes as the clear has seeped into them.

#484 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I would not use any sort of twist drill to do this work!!! It requires a bit of finesse.
Ron Kruzman sells a nice dremel/glue install kit for dealing with cleaning clear coat out of the mounting holes of a playfield.
Seriously if you hit this with a run of the mill twist drill bits you will regret it.

No offense, but I do it all the time. The best thing to have is a set that goes in 1/64th increments. I have two. The one pictured is my rough set. I have another for finer finishing work like on playfields.

The key is to not remove too much at one time. I find the bit that just fits the hole, then use the next largest. I continue this way until I've got the hole I want.

Again, the key is the bit size. You want one with 64's.

C890A250-509A-4601-9C6B-794A48697194_1_105_c (resized).jpegC890A250-509A-4601-9C6B-794A48697194_1_105_c (resized).jpeg
#486 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

None taken Bryan... You have a method here that works and you are very good at what you do. You are absolutely right by going in small increments.

Another thing you can do is before you drill forward, drill backwards for a couple of seconds.

#530 4 years ago

These might help.

p025 (resized).jpgp025 (resized).jpgp026 (resized).jpgp026 (resized).jpgp027 (resized).jpgp027 (resized).jpgp028 (resized).jpgp028 (resized).jpgp029 (resized).jpgp029 (resized).jpgp030 (resized).jpgp030 (resized).jpgp031 (resized).jpgp031 (resized).jpgp032 (resized).jpgp032 (resized).jpg
#536 4 years ago
Quoted from Passave:

If you notice in those pics, the rails were the first thing he did, That is a sign of a good builder who truly understands the machine, How and why it was built the way it was.

Those are actually teardown reference pics.

#546 4 years ago

If you keep using big words, I'm not helping anymore.

#548 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

would it help if I had to look up the proper spelling before I used it?

A little.

#550 4 years ago
Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:

Great thread, one of my favorites right now
I have a bunch of NOS Addams parts that I should dig out when you are ready
cheers, Steve

No better time than now. I wish I had some myself.

#583 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

step 1 done, step 2 in progress.
Proper screws in targets. all nice and stable. proper nuts going on. chair scoop installed.
awaiting pop bumper screw arrival. how's it look?[quoted image]

The screws are actually incorrect. They should be hex headed.

#586 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

crap. right size/length wrong head.
would those still be ok though? they are perfectly tight and secure.

They're fine. Wrong....but fine.

#613 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

The first pop bumper is on.
Assuming that looks right, problem one is instantly noticeable. the wires for the lamp are too long. can I trim them? I assume I shouldn't bend them to fit outward...[quoted image]

pop007 (resized).jpgpop007 (resized).jpg
#673 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

I know most people like to work the bottom first. I think I might get a top ramp though to see if it hits my bumpers or not.

Doesn't hurt to buy the ramp, but you're missing the supports for it, so you'll have no idea if it fits or not.

As for what to install and when, I like to install the first layer of parts on the top, then do the entire bottom, then finish the top.

#694 4 years ago

Did you find all your metal playfield posts? I've got all kind of them, if you need something.

1 month later
#820 3 years ago
Quoted from wallybgood:

Hey 565
I have a few TAF bending pics on my OneDrive. https://tinyurl.com/uvz97tz
Wally

You are a God, Wally! I'd have two of everything made. I just know I'd f' up more than one to get it right.

#851 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

the Ball trough I think Ican install. the wire guide I can install. how many of the ball guides can I put on now once I bend them?

You should be able to install them all. They're usually the first layer on top. My concern would be your bends. If the mounting tabs aren't bent correctly, the guide will end up mounted incorrectly. The location of some can be critical.

1 month later
#1162 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

one of the problems with the HEP threads is wading through machines you don't care about to find the Addams stuff. I wish he'd separate the builds to make it a little easier to find stuff.

Chris used to have a section of his website where he shared pics of each restore with his customers. There were lots of detailed tear down and build up pics. However, each customer would need special permission to view their particular game's pics. You might reach out to Chris. Maybe he'd give you permission to view some of the TAF restores.

2 weeks later
#1203 3 years ago

Dear God no.

This.

https://www.hansonrivet.com/rivets/tubular-rivets/

If you need any riveting done, I'd be more than happy to do it for you. I've got the rivets and the tools.

2 weeks later
#1251 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The only way is to attach the rear mounts and front hangers and see how it sets.
Make adjustments to the hangers as needed.
I also add black plastic washers to the pivots for both the head and the playfield to keep them centered so they dont scrape.
Getting these is mandatory so you font scrape up the cabinet during installation:
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

I think what he's going to need are measurements for the pivot bolts and nuts. Paul doesn't drill those holes. I have an empty TAF cabinet I take take those off of, if need be. Not sure how you'd determine where those go otherwise.

#1258 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

does anything hold the cloud topper in, or does it just sit on top?

I'm going to pretend you didn't ask if it just sits on top.

This is what's normally used but you could use any kind of screw.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/237-5947-00

#1259 3 years ago
Quoted from NoahFentz:

Hi Bryan! Since so many restorers have different ways to go about things, e.g., guys like Chris (HEP) make adjustments to the OEM location, there's no 'right' way to pre-drill them. Imagine if they were in the 'wrong' spot. Ugh. Not what I want for either party. I can provide those hole locations, also, if needed. They aren't always the same from machine to machine either, making it more difficult at times. LOL

Completely understand but if Shredder doesn't have an old cabinet to go by, he'd have no clue where to begin.

1 week later
#1323 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

Is there a direct link? Have stuff in my cart ready to go, will pull the trigger and add stuff in a few weeks.
I thought I could just place some of the Current 44s and 555s there but I guess not

I've got a bunch of these in various colors and bases and also a bunch of these in white bright.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/2smd-bulbs

I also have a bunch of LED flashers I won't be using.

If you can use any, let me know.

#1330 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Looks like ministry of pinball might have a new repro speaker panel display cover:
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/addams-family-speaker-panel.html

FWIW, I ordered a couple on July 15th. Tracking shows they're in the US at customs.

"Delivery moment still unknown."

3 months later
#1524 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

It just scares me trying to get it exactly right. and I hate having to drill through the artwork heh. maybe I'll give it a try next week and get it over with.

Put some masking tape where the holes are going to be drilled and make your marks on that.

2 weeks later
1 week later
#1635 3 years ago

I populate the entire playfield before it goes back in the cabinet.

Doing it this way, I can test everything as I go along.

SO much easier to install things when the playfield is in a rotisserie.

When it comes time to install the playfield, I have my lovely wife (she's sitting right here and made me say that) help me. It's also easier if the cabinet is off the legs. In these pics, the cabinet is on a lift and I lower it as low as possible.

440C049B-A48B-47DE-B48F-09D408DD04F6_1_105_c (resized).jpeg440C049B-A48B-47DE-B48F-09D408DD04F6_1_105_c (resized).jpeg8D96B3E1-8D5E-4CF4-9890-A666F14D6FF7_1_105_c (resized).jpeg8D96B3E1-8D5E-4CF4-9890-A666F14D6FF7_1_105_c (resized).jpeg
#1638 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I like that new rotisserie, looks like it works slick! I think Ill have to get one of those...

I bought this from a buddy (who never used it) probably 15 years ago. No idea who made it but it's by far the nicest one I've ever had.

1 month later
#1682 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

IT's a good thing I work in an officce of electronic experts that can help with this. ..
Step one:
Install ground braid in the head and lower cabinet.
Are there any good videos detailing on how this is done in an addams? want to have an idea of what i'm in for before I start.

Here are some pics of the head.

h016 (resized).jpgh016 (resized).jpgh017 (resized).jpgh017 (resized).jpgh018 (resized).jpgh018 (resized).jpgh020 (resized).jpgh020 (resized).jpgh019 (resized).jpgh019 (resized).jpg
#1683 3 years ago

And here's the base.

What isn't shown is the ground braid that's included in one of the cabinet wire harnesses. It connects the braid in the base to the braid in the head.

012 (resized).JPG012 (resized).JPG013 (resized).JPG013 (resized).JPG014 (resized).JPG014 (resized).JPG015 (resized).JPG015 (resized).JPG016 (resized).JPG016 (resized).JPG017 (resized).JPG017 (resized).JPG018 (resized).JPG018 (resized).JPG
#1688 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

never insult the drunken monkey. this is harder than it looks . either that, or I need a better stapler than the one I have, which probably wouldn't be a bad idea. I have to see if we have an industrial one.

A pneumatic stapler certainly makes things easier.

In your previous pic, pay attention to how the braid is run near that small vertically mounted block in between the two horizontal blocks. This is what your playfield hits when you lift it all the way to vertical.

#1699 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

I am not too happy with my first attempts. Looks very sloppy. this may be a two person job. one to hold the wire in place and the other to staple it.

Only if you're using two hands to operate the stapler. Once you have one end of the braid stapled down, it only takes one hand to position it where you want and the other to pull the trigger on the stapler.

1 month later
#1752 3 years ago

Here are the front and back of the light board if you need it.

020 (resized).JPG020 (resized).JPG023 (resized).JPG023 (resized).JPG
#1758 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Actually you need some wedge base sockets for the #906 flashers on the 12v circuit, as noted above.
Follow the picture that Bryan kindly supplied. you can plainly see the circuit paths.
Wally will have a correct circuit path for you also.
I imagine that you can use a screw for those sockets, but they mostly get stapled on. Whatever work best for you will be fine.

There are no flashers in the head.

Edit: I should have said there are no flashers that mount on the light board.

#1759 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

hmm, I thought you could use this kind for all of them....Ok, my mistake. I will look for the wedge sockets...

You can, if you want. Just pay attention to the ones like that in my pic. Those are for the blinking lamps. All the others are just standard GI lamps.

#1763 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

It's been a while since I played a REAL version of the game, but doesn't the lightning on the top flash at certain times?
And just to be clear, these will work for the others?
https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-wedge-base-2-lead-socket-with-front-mounting-bracket.html

There are 3 flashers on the top that are a completely different circuit.

You can use the ones from Pinball Life but the Lamp ends up recessed into the wood. I'd stick with then ones you have. Those extend the lamp out past the wood face.

#1765 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think that the 3 at the top are controlled lamps, flashing lights, but not #906 flashers.
And it looks like 4 bulbs in the picture that are not LED's, are the #455 blinkers.

The 3 on top are 906 flashers and there are 7 blinkers. Look at the backside of my pics. It's easier to tell.

Those two pics were teardown pics of a game I did years ago. I didn't want anyone to think I actually put those LED's in there.

1 week later
#1863 3 years ago
Quoted from JimWilks:

Yes, there are 2 GI circuits here - Yellow/white and Orange/White. Using the correct colors for the wire will make future troubleshooting much easier.

Exactly! Only two circuits. The bare wires are simply an extension of the yellow circuit...not a separate circuit. I'd also show the connector and wire positions, but my game is at my son's house.

4 weeks later
#2095 2 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

final update post for the day. put in an order for side and top trim on the glass...and when that gets here next week, I can properly put this topper back on 100% complete. minus the connections for the lights at the end.
[quoted image]
99%
[quoted image]

The screws in the bottom of the U channel should be taper head so the head sits flush with the bottom of the channel. I'm not sure if the hex head screws you used will be an issue or not.

1 month later
#2223 2 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

can I simply put the screw through it? just wanna make sure I do this all right Also have to remember to put the batteries in the pcb on top tomorrow as well.

Yes.

5 months later
#2470 2 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

the rest of the easy ones.[quoted image]

You've got the switch mounted backwards. The actuator should be on top of the finger on the bracket.

You'll also want to cut off the excess leads on the diode. You don't need those touching things they shouldn't.

#2503 2 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

Do T Nuts usually fall out?
I've been flipping this thing over and over and so far not one has fallen out.

It's only the 6-32 T nuts for the inlane plastics. The teeth on these are pretty small. They won't fall out on their own, but if you push on them with a screw from the top side, they can.

All the rest are 8-32 and you shouldn't have any issues.

10 months later
#3032 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

He is specializing in pinball wire with correct colors by the foot.

And he ships extremely quickly.

6 months later
#3508 1 year ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

nope. didn't even notice there was plastic on them. I'll try and peel them off today.
And yes, I did get the post kit from marco.

There should be a film on both sides.

1 week later
#3554 1 year ago
Quoted from mmr61184:

Hey guys wanted to post this in here since I know some of you are either doing the same ash shredder or restoring your own TAF.
I asked kstairmantis if he would make things box in stainless to replace the ugly looking grey sheet metal ones. He asked me to send mine as a donor so he can get the dimensions perfect. Happy to say he delivers and wanted to give him a shout out and also post it so you guys knew about it.
https://mantispinball.com/product-category/addams-family/page/2/?add-to-cart=14557

I love everything Kerry makes but damn, metal shit has gone up in price!

3 weeks later
#3608 11 months ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

minus some soldering, look what we got done today
One down!
where does this sucker get plugged into?
followed the attached picture onthis one.[quoted image][quoted image]

J-121 or the one above it. They're the same.

TAF 003 2 (resized).JPGTAF 003 2 (resized).JPG
#3648 11 months ago
Quoted from mmr61184:

Thanks, some of my dumpling is slightly off what a pain in the ass. The drill bits walk into the dimples. I will have to try pointy tipped bits maybe

You just need a good awl.

https://www.amazon.com/Scratch-Cushion-Klein-Tools-650/dp/B0000302W2/ref=asc_df_B0000302W2/

4 months later
12
#3872 6 months ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

or just wait till monday.

Sometimes you need to walk away and come back the next day with fresh eyes.

Don't ask me how I know.

1 month later
12
#4211 5 months ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

on the bright side, cabinet is finally wired.
would be nice if it was a little neater... but at least it's finally done. and soldered.
[quoted image]
didn't have the proper size for the stake ons /plumb bob. so had to use what we had in the warehouse. looks weird, but it works.

Dear God!

1 week later
#4389 4 months ago
Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:

Have I been doing shrink tube wrong? I assumed shrinking it tight to the wire was how it was supposed to be done.

You have been doing it correctly.

2 months later
#5029 61 days ago
Quoted from Mbecker:Yeah something is definitely not going right.. after the end of the connector that’s crimped to insulation, the wire/insulation should look perfect/untouched. I’m not sure how yours are getting so messed up but I’d redo every one of those after you figure out what is going wrong. Makes me wonder about the crimper you’re using, to start.

I think it's obvious he's sticking the wire in the crimper backwards.

2 weeks later
#5162 46 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

-Edit - PinballNero is getting something for all his help. We figured out the issue, I think.
Maybe I'll send him an AtGames Virtual Pinball machine or something .

I think you owe him more like hookers and blow.

#5170 45 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

They are wired wrong
Ill post a picture of some of the lamp sockets in a row when I get to my shop

And a hooker will show up at your door this evening.

14
#5231 40 days ago

The fuck you say!

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