My sweet summer child...
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Don't worry, you should see what marco charges canadians for shipping, we are spreading the wealth already
Tough to see where your color dmd power plugs are but for one thing it looks like it’s Mounted upside down. You want the toggle buttons facing upward so you can manage the settings and menus without pulling out the speaker panel from the backbox
I’m kind of confused, can’t you start soldering the light sockets and components that are currently installed?
Quoted from Shredder565:Bom? first I heard of this term. any link?
Bill of materials.
I think you are reading the manual wrong switch assembly vs switch part number
I guess switch assembly just says what the switch should be attached to
39916372-C94C-4457-B394-131C1134D3BD (resized).jpegFEF5744E-DF65-4CAB-87EE-B9BF3BD14165 (resized).jpegQuoted from Shredder565:one more part in. two more plastics going in. ball guides in (but no ball yet to properly see if they are the correct height). Slowly starting to look closer to a finished product.
What Hex spacers go by the lights? I have the left guard I can attach next, but not the right guard. And I know I'm still missing the piece below the ball catcher. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-8039-3, so just ordered.
[quoted image]
I don’t know shit about this era of games but I’m pretty sure your outhole switch 18 should be closer to the bottom of the trough so it can detect the ball after draining. Cheers!
Edit, also aren’t these playfields dimpled on the bottom to help you know where the switches should be mounted?
Quoted from Shredder565:1, I got it before I saw the above post.
2. the above looks super beat up
Did the other ship?
If you get the Addams one powder coated it would look basically new
Quoted from Shredder565:I asked a few times about what posts go there, but it got lost in the shuffle, I guess. I do have the left guard ramp only and all the plastics, but no idea how it gets attached.
Referencing the ball guide assembly from the parts list. Dont forget you machine screws!
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from atrainn:The one I use almost never replies to emails, but if I call they are incredibly helpful, so I'd recommend calling. Now I just show up with the parts and get pricing on the spot haha.
I was going to say , if you show up at a shop with a handful of small parts I’m sure they will give you a reasonable quote/cost to do it
Quoted from Shredder565:while i'm waiting on the chroming and powder coating.....some inspiration needed. how many work hours left to get this thing going into test mode if I really knew what I was doing and could plow ahead fast?
You should already have the inspiration. It should be a fun, rewarding and challenging experience. Are you still enjoying this?
You haven't moved the trough switch like we suggested, Still waiting for you to wire up a solenoid or two and test those. Looks like you are missing the switch for the wire form return on the right. You can break down the tasks in the smaller pieces and build on the small successes.
Basic troubleshooting says you should disconnect the switch connectors on the board first. See if it’s still there. If it’s still there it’s an issue on the board. If it’s gone then you would chase down metal touching where it’s not supposed to, or a diode crushed , disconnected etc.
I am not an expert by any means but that’s what I would do
Quoted from Shredder565:yep, replaced and tested. all good. even the ones on the other boards. replacing the chips looks easy enough if it's like it's shown in the video.
Ah, missed the other comment. Imo you are better off sending the board to a repair tech then start desoldering and replacing components.
I think you want a pinball scratch build project not a board diagnose & repair project.
Also this component looks blown ? Is that the sound board ?
IMG_5388 (resized).jpegQuoted from wallybgood:Hey 565
When you reported that the D20 LED blinks twice on the new CPU, that is an indication of a problem with the RAM chip. (typically)
This is from the TAF manual P 1-45.
"The CPU has three L.E.D.s located on the upper left side of the board. On game power-up the top and bottom L.E.D.s turn On for a moment then, the top L.E.D. turns Off and the center L.E.D. starts to blink rapidly. The bottom L.E.D. remains On. The system has detected a problem if the following happens:
CPU Board L.E.D. Error Codes
Center L.E.D. blinks one time - ROM Error U6
Center L.E.D. blinks two times - RAM Error U8
Center L.E.D. blinks three times - Custom Chip Failure U9"
It is possible that you damaged the NVRAM when removing it. They are static sensitive.
Wally
Nice of you Wally to go back to this, I was going to say , likely an issue from swapping chips. Shredder, you could take a video of the game booting up with the LED activity on the mpu that would help us/you
What is your own assessment? Is the insulation crimped ? Are the bare wires clamped tight ? Did you try a hard pull test ?
Quoted from dmacy:J133 sounds kinda hot lol!
Agreed, there's only one condition, can't be short!
If you mess up the crimp , cut the wire to a fresh undamaged spot and try another. You need to practise way more before doing crimps on your playfield/connector wiring.
Once all of that is fixed , sometimes trying a bulb in a different socket helps determine if it’s an issue with the socket vs the bulb
Quoted from MiniPinHead:My dude...
Your header is backwards. You're also working with a single-sided PCB (solder joints happening only on one side of the board). Please take the time to see photos of well-documented boards and how they are oriented. If you try to understand the concept of how they work and are oriented, then you'll understand how the majority of the lamp PCBs work and should be built (and not need the photos).
Also, stop listening to everyone telling you to solder onto fiberglass. If they don't know, then they shouldn't be advising you. Solder goes onto pads to create joints with pins. If the board is single sided, then there are pads and solder on one side. If the board is double sided and has pads on both sides, then you solder on both sides. No pad? Then no joint and no solder (simple). You don't solder to fiberglass.
Great job including photos. They help everyone get a clearer picture (no pun) of what's going on and can better try and assist you
Example photo for your reference of # A-15112-1 / 5768-12948-00:
[quoted image]They'll never be correct, when there is no pad for the solder to flow onto.
Why the flux? He should be fine with his high-quality solder. Did you notice that the header was backwards? There are no pads for the solder joints on the side of the board everyone is telling him to solder, so no continuity is possible here.
He should have Sn63/Pb37 rosin core solder and not need the flux. Again, how can he solder with any product when there are no pads...
You are providing good advice yet you are lecturing everyone else like we are in the room with him, take down a notch. My gosh.
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