Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992yep, one or two wires where on the wrong prong. gets confusing after a while. OK, 15, 17, and 18 work again. still no luck with 16. I have to re wire the molex for 43. maybe that will help with 16 and the others.
Tomorrow's job, though, is to get all the lights on the left side of the field working.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Yes, that looks correct. Here is a pic from my Thing eject hole switch wiring. The diode band is correct.
[quoted image]
OK, that rules that one out.
Switches are weird. all the Pop bumpers where working, then I hooked up the swamp, now pops 33 and 34 are closed. but the swamp works ok. I can wonder how people don't go insane trying to track down switch problems 
.
Ordered 20 more 1n4007 diodes for the lights. get here friday. MAYBE I can finish up the lights by then at least.
Move on to the sol and flashers next week?
I see what you guys mean by the fact that the lights will go easier. Once I knew how to do ONE, I got three hooked up pretty fast.
I should have all done by Friday at this rate. but so far, three are working.
Also, judging from some of the pictures I Saved posted earlier, it looks like these two white and green wires get attached to the daisy chained lights HERE that do NOT have fuses. is the hook up the same? don't matter which side the white or green? go on just so long as the chain is consistent on all sides?
IMG_0123 (resized).JPG4 cousin it targets get soldered tomorrow and working. 4 or so working lights I set up get soldered tomorrow. found 4 more diodes on top of the tool box, so I can get some others done as well. Proper yellow jumper wire arrives tomorrow, maybe I can get the lights on the top half all working and finish the rest on friday when the remaining diodes come in.
non pinball news
Also finally upgraded to a Switch Oled for the better batter life and bigger screen. AND sold the old Xbox one to replace it with an Xbox S. Already a decent upgrade. no giant freakin' power cord block to go with this one.
and successful Retro Con outing. avoided Covid and finally got to see a KITT in person.
Do not look at me direct on, your eyeballs might crack .
DSC00031 (resized).JPGcousin it soldered and back to working. Right Slingshot re soldered and back to working. Left slingshot working, but oddly, only one side. side with the diode doesn't want to ding.
So, working on the top half of the lights and a little confused by this one. An extra set of red that looks like it goes to nothing, and what looks like too many red on the other side. I think these are 13 and 14 if I numbered them right. May need my non color blind guy back in for this one, but seems like too many red wires for two lights
IMG_0125 (resized).JPGIMG_0127 (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:4 cousin it targets get soldered tomorrow and working. 4 or so working lights I set up get soldered tomorrow. found 4 more diodes on top of the tool box, so I can get some others done as well. Proper yellow jumper wire arrives tomorrow, maybe I can get the lights on the top half all working and finish the rest on friday when the remaining diodes come in.
non pinball news
Also finally upgraded to a Switch Oled for the better batter life and bigger screen. AND sold the old Xbox one to replace it with an Xbox S. Already a decent upgrade. no giant freakin' power cord block to go with this one.
and successful Retro Con outing. avoided Covid and finally got to see a KITT in person.
Do not look at me direct on, your eyeballs might crack .
[quoted image]
Sweet! Wife and I were enjoying Retro Recipes doing theirs.
Quoted from dmacy:Sweet! Wife and I were enjoying Retro Recipes doing theirs.
I just wish that I could afford a KITT. first you have to find one in decent shape, THEN repair it to like new and THEN get it road worthy. 3 very expensive steps!
OK, I brought the electrician in. For 14, we hooked up red yellow yellow brown. didn't work. switched out the lamps, nothing. switched out the housing, nothing. switched out the diodes, that one just refuses to work.
for 13, we have no red orange in that vicinity, just a couple of blues and violets, and none of them work.
Will some lights not all turn on when the game does?
Quoted from Shredder565:I just wish that I could afford a KITT. first you have to find one in decent shape, THEN repair it to like new and THEN get it road worthy. 3 very expensive steps!
OK, I brought the electrician in. For 14, we hooked up red yellow yellow brown. didn't work. switched out the lamps, nothing. switched out the housing, nothing. switched out the diodes, that one just refuses to work.
for 13, we have no red orange in that vicinity, just a couple of blues and violets, and none of them work.
Will some lights not all turn on when the game does?
Iuse the all lamp test for all lamps.
Use the all lamp+flashers to test flashers. The coin door must be closed to test flashers or colis, or pull out the white switch peg (its dedigned to do this) to defeat the door interlock
Quoted from Shredder565:I just wish that I could afford a KITT. first you have to find one in decent shape, THEN repair it to like new and THEN get it road worthy. 3 very expensive steps!
OK, I brought the electrician in. For 14, we hooked up red yellow yellow brown. didn't work. switched out the lamps, nothing. switched out the housing, nothing. switched out the diodes, that one just refuses to work.
for 13, we have no red orange in that vicinity, just a couple of blues and violets, and none of them work.
Will some lights not all turn on when the game does?
You need to make sure you are doing the lamps in the correct group. The red/yellow wire group are controlled lamps where the the violet/white violet are GI. That should help you.
Quoted from Juicerc51:You need to make sure you are doing the lamps in the correct group. The red/yellow wire group are controlled lamps where the the violet/white violet are GI. That should help you.
Ah-ha. I was wondering if they where setup like the switches, or had their own sort of 'order' they had to go into.
Right now, i'm focusing on the Red/Yellow wire groups.
extra diodes come tommorow, so lets see how far we can get.
Progress. All Red/Yellows are hooked up. SOME I can't figure out where they go yet. OTHERS do not seem to work. I tried the lamp tests and nodda.
I'm going to get my color blind free guy in here to make sure the colors are matching right to eliminate that. I also found they work without diodes, which I guess makes sense.
Quoted from Shredder565:I also found they work without diodes, which I guess makes sense.
You will get multiple illuminates ("cross talk" if you will) if you leave the diode out. If you do single lamp test and advance you will see this very obviously.
Quoted from DumbAss:You will get multiple illuminates ("cross talk" if you will) if you leave the diode out. If you do single lamp test and advance you will see this very obviously.
I do plan on putting them in when they come in today. I was just a bit surprised they worked without them
adding in the lamp diodes now. Also updating my master parts list. some items may be missing cause I Wasn't logged into the account when ordering, so give or take a few hundred.
but looks like about half my machine came from marco
marco
S943146 09/28/2022 $70.15
MS942490 09/22/2022 $60.74
MS942099 09/19/2022 $61.65
MS941966 09/19/2022 $27.39
MS940659 09/08/2022 $57.44
MS940247 09/05/2022 $38.48
MS938406 08/23/2022 $79.28
MS937801 08/18/2022 $80.45
MS937494 08/16/2022 $39.08
MS937089 08/13/2022 $119.49
MS936942 08/12/2022 $47.14
MS936806 08/11/2022 $15.87
MS936804 08/11/2022 $111.14
MS936426 08/08/2022 $19.17
MS935927 08/04/2022 $105.97
MS935584 08/02/2022 $70.57
MS935444 08/01/2022 $27.78
MS935339 08/01/2022 $63.33
MS935241 07/31/2022 $253.60
MS934479 07/26/2022 $252.28
MS932014 07/08/2022 $30.76
MS900923 12/22/2021 $433.03
MS894374 11/14/2021 $323.81
MS877997 07/22/2021 $39.88
MS874493 06/26/2021 $69.83
MS864885 04/19/2021 $49.79
MS863552 04/09/2021 $35.73
MS859713 03/17/2021 $39.28
MS858992 03/13/2021 $55.18
MS840032 11/20/2020 $28.83
MS840029 11/20/2020 $64.28
MS818831 06/13/2020 $156.87
MS816826 05/28/2020 $138.78
MS815836 05/20/2020 $40.08
MS815093 05/14/2020 $157.42
MS812191 04/24/2020 $77.22
MS810340 04/12/2020 $511.32
MS810074 04/10/2020 $114.14
MS809845 04/08/2020 $492.41
MS807100 03/18/2020 $21.35
MS806023 03/10/2020 $86.94
MS804631 02/29/2020 $80.47
MS802888 02/18/2020 $63.29
All Red/Yellows hooked up with diodes and working Minus TWO. for one closer to 41/42, there doesn't seem to be a wire set for that one. May have to daisy chain it. and t he other for one of the Grave letters, it just does not want to work for whatever reason.
Quoted from Shredder565:All Red/Yellows hooked up with diodes and working Minus TWO. for one closer to 41/42, there doesn't seem to be a wire set for that one. May have to daisy chain it. and t he other for one of the Grave letters, it just does not want to work for whatever reason.
In the single lamp test, do all of the lamps light correctly one by one?
Is there voltage going to the grave letter lamp wires?
Quoted from pinballinreno:In the single lamp test, do all of the lamps light correctly one by one?
Is there voltage going to the grave letter lamp wires?
The single lamp test, the one hooked up that doesn't work (15 I think) didn't light up at all. I'll try it again now that the diodes are all on.
but I'm about done for the day .
Quoted from Shredder565:The single lamp test, the one hooked up that doesn't work (15 I think) didn't light up at all. I'll try it again now that the diodes are all on.
but I'm about done for the day .
If there is no voltage at the non-working lamp, trace the wire (or both wires) back and see where its connected (or not)
firstthing for monday. The 'Thing That Wouldn't Leave', my weird super anxiety ridden uncle, was in the office today. He has solittle a life, he only talksto you about three things. Street Lights (used to work for the town), Reel to Reel Recorders, or VM Machines. Usually one of the 3. never fails, same stuff each time. So, I like to escape before he remembers where my office is .
didn't even have time to wire the diodes in.
I will say this. to have only ONE non working light....the lights where a JOY to work on compared to the switches. Although trying to trouble shoot the latter, i'm seeing which ones fail at the same time and which ones don't. like the swamp switches messing with the bumper switches.
Have an HP Omen 32" monitor for sale for $300 if anyone is interested. Need more HDMI inputs, so upgrading to a 48" Oled .
Tomorrow's job is to solder the red/yellow lights. test with the meter the one non working one. And THEN figure out how to do the Stringed lights. Do I basically just string them from another set of red/yellow lights? or is their a separate set of wires for them?
Quoted from Shredder565:Have an HP Omen 32" monitor for sale for $300 if anyone is interested. Need more HDMI inputs, so upgrading to a 48" Oled .
Tomorrow's job is to solder the red/yellow lights. test with the meter the one non working one. And THEN figure out how to do the Stringed lights. Do I basically just string them from another set of red/yellow lights? or is their a separate set of wires for them?
The GI strings are broken up in to sections to take the voltage/heat pressure off the GI connector (by using multiple wires instead of just one) in the backbox. Plus you can add lighting effects with multiple strings, which they did on quite a few games.
Moving to 100% LED's solves this issue for the most part.
Typically the GI connectors turned black and got burned up in the backbox even with multiple strings. This is considered normal, though its a weak design.
Otherwise they could basically all be hooked up as one, if the connectors didnt burn up and melt the solder on the pins, lol.
hmm, well, that's good to know .
maybe I can get the lights done tomorrow and then try and figure out the solenoids 
.
Issue with the top 8 or so lights on the board. I tried the same trick as on the bottom, stringing them along from a GI light. It worked on the bottom with four lights stringed in order, not so much on the top. Do these other little lights that poke through the game board need fuses on them too?
And I know it should be yellow. the size I ordered from wirebot was one size too big on my error. used some other yellow for the lower ones, and white for the uppers.
Quoted from Shredder565:Issue with the top 8 or so lights on the board. I tried the same trick as on the bottom, stringing them along from a GI light. It worked on the bottom with four lights stringed in order, not so much on the top. Do these other little lights that poke through the game board need fuses on them too?
And I know it should be yellow. the size I ordered from wirebot was one size too big on my error. used some other yellow for the lower ones, and white for the uppers.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Are you working on controlled lamps or GI lighting?
Lamps wont light up if they are wired wrong or have no power.
right now, i'm passed the red/yellow controlled lamps. I'm trying to get the ones not listed on the manual or playfield, but included in a HEP Build working. so not sure which ones these are.
On the bottom, I strung a wire set from the red/yellow controlled lamps, to the lights next to the slingshots.
It worked that way fine on the bottom, and those have no fuses on them. I tried the s ame trick on the top. stringing a wire from the Red/Yellow on the top controlled light, and notta. those don't wanna light up, and they are the same base as the ones on the bottom.
Quoted from Shredder565:On the bottom, I strung a wire set from the red/yellow controlled lamps, to the lights next to the slingshots.
It worked that way fine on the bottom, and those have no fuses on them. I tried the s ame trick on the top. stringing a wire from the Red/Yellow on the top controlled light, and notta. those don't wanna light up, and they are the same base as the ones on the bottom.
If you're using the word "trick" then you're not doing it correctly. There is no trick to this. You just need to wire it correctly.
Controlled lamp wiring (YEL-XXX and RED-XXX) has nothing to do with general illumination (GI). Do NOT cross the two circuits. Controlled lamps are DC. General illumination is AC.
You have VIO and WHT-VIO wires hanging loose in that image. Those are general illumination.
I've said it before ... I'll say it again. You really need to do some more reading and understanding before committing wiring. This becomes even more important if you start doing solenoids where the voltage is ~75VDC. You can destroy something REALLY FAST.
I think we really need to switch names. your username doesn't fit your intelligence .
Just asking again, and circling it this time to be sure. Are THESE the correct wires for the other sets of lights?
There where two.. one near the top, and one near the bottom where the other lights are.
again, I know it gets tiring, as sometimes it feels like circles, but thank you all for helping me limp through this. As I said before, I knew this was going to be the hardest part, and it's working up to it's rep. All the other stuff was just screwing and drilling. this is the serious stuff.
If we ever get this working, I'm thinking of some way to get anyone local who wants to give it a play have a shot to come on over and do so. The impossible project completed..
9a4d6a98fdfbfaa8ff84053354d1461a17869a98 (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:I think we really need to switch names. your username doesn't fit your intelligence .
Just asking again, and circling it this time to be sure. Are THESE the correct wires for the other sets of lights?
There where two.. one near the top, and one near the bottom where the other lights are.
again, I know it gets tiring, as sometimes it feels like circles, but thank you all for helping me limp through this. As I said before, I knew this was going to be the hardest part, and it's working up to it's rep. All the other stuff was just screwing and drilling. this is the serious stuff.
If we ever get this working, I'm thinking of some way to get anyone local who wants to give it a play have a shot to come on over and do so. The impossible project completed..
[quoted image]
Have you looked at the lamp matrix chart?
Quoted from Shredder565:Are THESE the correct wires for the other sets of lights?
There are FIVE general illumination strings available in WPC-89. The WPC manuals do NOT adequately document the lamp locations. Sometimes the test (T.6) will indicate which string corresponds to what area but it isn't precise. You will need to scour for images documenting this. Christopher Hutchins (HEP) usually has excellent images for this purpose.
The five strings are:
The only dedicated use of any of the strings is VIO / WHT-VIO that taps off J119 to feed the coin door (insert coin lamps).
As previously mentioned the Williams manuals are mostly correct. They aren't always correct so read them and trust them but verify them.
For instance ... take a look at this from The Addams Family manual.
It clearly has errors in it. As general illumination is AC your electrician office workers will probably understand this better than the DC wiring. There is a "hot" wire and a "neutral" wire. For our purpose let's just call the solid wire color hot and the WHT-XXX wire neutral. One side is actually tied to the cabinet ground but I can't remember which it is and I'm not interested in looking it up to be precisely correct.
The wires are paired. One solid color hot and one striped (WHT-XXX) color neutral. They are always paired. The wiring diagram shows a BRN in J121 but no WHT-BRN in J121. That doesn't make any sense because there's no neutral (return). Also ... there's no connection to the GRN / WHT-GRN pair and there's only a single WHT-YEL connection.
Not only is this documentation clearly wrong there is no indication of which strings go where. Again ... you will have to use images scoured from restorations to find this out. Or ask someone who has this information (in images) to post it.
The general illumination is often a single connection to a socket and then wired in parallel to the remainder of the sockets in the string. This parallel wiring is done with the same solid YEL jumper wires Williams used for switch column chaining.
Finally ... when you turn to wiring up the solenoids I STRONGLY advise that you don't try anything (applying power) until you post images of the wiring you have. If you have wired up something incorrectly you WILL damage something with this high voltage. Go slowly here or you will try to take one step forward but end up taking FIVE steps backward.
You've got me scared enough now that will do!
OK, So.. progress report.
Had my non color blind guy come in. turns out we had the bottom part of the harness flipped the wrong way, and had to re-label all of the bottom wires. and for the first time, the jet bumper wires. NOW we know they are all going where they should be going, so HOPEFULLY, that will fix the non working light too.
I've got some de soldering to do and some resoldering and hoping for a success.
And THEN, when he's not called away on another meeting, we'll tackle what you've written above, as I've got it printed out and put on the workbench here and see if we can get the rest of them going.
back to where we where before. with all but one working. Before I tackle the other set of non red/yellow wires, I went b ack looking through photo's users posted. now I have to figure out the pop bumpers. We found the proper wires needed for each one, but I have to figure the wire tab connecting.
CpWz_005 (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:We found the proper wires needed for each one, but I have to figure the wire tab connecting.
Remember that it does not have to be physically identical. It only has to be electrically identical. Electrical correctness is all that matters.
only have enough fuses for two pop bumper tries, doing them in a bit. need to order one more lamp socket (put a flasher where there should not have been one.) also, what are the correct size connectors (that get crimped on the wires and go on the prong) for these suckers? need to redo a few and the ones I Got last time where the wrong size.
Will also try to tackle the GI (non controlled) lights today as well.
detail (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:also, what are the correct size connectors (that get crimped on the wires and go on the prong) for these suckers
Im using these for the center pole of the micro switch:
Teansic 200Pcs Female Insulated Spade Wire Connector Electrical Crimp Terminal 22-18AWG 2.8 x 0.5mm Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0925QNCP7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apanp_dkjdF8rKjgTJz
They are out of stock right now. But the link shows the size/dimensions.
They were a little diffucult to source.
PM me your address and ill send you 20.
Quoted from Shredder565:also, what are the correct size connectors (that get crimped on the wires and go on the prong) for these suckers
Quoted from pinballinreno:the size/dimensions.
OP: Fully insulated 0.110" female quick disconnect
Make sure you select the 18-22AWG size. These are often (but not necessarily always) red. You should be able to find these easily. There are many manufacturers of such a product.
Sent .
OK, I really need someone with more time to waste on these things . this was as far as we where able to get, and I don't want to hook up some, with no fuses for all, so I guess I'll wait for more to come in.
but does this look right so far with this mockup? we can't really see where some of the yellows go in there, and I know not to assume .
310547380_10159875040740211_57820383422329145_n (resized).jpg310590319_10159875040690211_5363369107162892010_n (resized).jpg310610024_10159875040840211_5999722455053637530_n (resized).jpg310688028_10159875037710211_4410050429338423720_n (resized).jpg311042350_10159875040910211_8492224385752735572_n (resized).jpg311196708_10159875040960211_1756934348020062191_n (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:Sent .
OK, I really need someone with more time to waste on these things . this was as far as we where able to get, and I don't want to hook up some, with no fuses for all, so I guess I'll wait for more to come in.
but does this look right so far with this mockup? we can't really see where some of the yellows go in there, and I know not to assume .[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I might be able to hook up 31 at least.
Quoted from DumbAss:OP: Fully insulated 0.110" female quick disconnect
Make sure you select the 18-22AWG size. These are often (but not necessarily always) red. You should be able to find these easily. There are many manufacturers of such a product.
I bought the 200 pack and have plenty to share a few.
For the price and free shipping it was a great deal.
There are zero in my entire area.
But thats normal in the wild west.
They fit perfectly.
And again thanks for helping me on getting these!
Quoted from Shredder565:Sent .
OK, I really need someone with more time to waste on these things . this was as far as we where able to get, and I don't want to hook up some, with no fuses for all, so I guess I'll wait for more to come in.
but does this look right so far with this mockup? we can't really see where some of the yellows go in there, and I know not to assume .[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Read the lamp matrix. Yellow/red goes to all pop bumper lamps as common column wire.
The diode look backwards.
It's time to clean the playfield, there are many metal debris - short circuit risk.
Quoted from Davi:Read the lamp matrix. Yellow/red goes to all pop bumper lamps as common column wire.
The diode look backwards.
It's time to clean the playfield, there are many metal debris - short circuit risk.
I got yelled at by my helper for that exact same thing . I run a vacuum over it every week, but I need to get rid of some broke staples. I also want to fill the holes to make it look a little neater.
Update. GI wires work! Got White/Violet hooked up, working on the others.
Quoted from Thor-NL:So close ...
Great job man, respect!
someone who knew what they where doing could get it playable by sunday . I'll be happy with December .
Once you get things all working you’ll be able to say what a huge accomplishment it was and hopefully learned a ton. I know I did getting into the hobby with matrixes, etc.
I charge 1000 for a playfield swap and more for a newer widebody (WPC+) and have people balk at the price. It’s a lot of work even when you have the original wiring and replace everything.
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