(Topic ID: 257696)

Addams Family - Scratch Build?

By Shredder565

2 years ago


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  • 3,035 posts
  • 191 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by Shredder565
  • Topic is favorited by 131 Pinsiders

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“This project is”

  • Ambitious 103 votes
    43%
  • insane 115 votes
    48%
  • will be undone by a official remake in a few months..:) 22 votes
    9%

(240 votes)

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There are 3,035 posts in this topic. You are on page 61 of 61.
#3001 3 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

Yes, 76 and 77 work perfectly and have never had a problem. They've worked since first hookup. I'll see where White Green and White Gray connects too. Maybe there is something I can test with the ohm.
Right now, 75 and 78 are disconnected from the switch, as well as 16. I am doing the 'brief wires crossed' method. and have never gotten them to work.

Put everything back together.

For fun, put the flipper switches in the cabinet and get the cabinet finished 100%.

You can test those also in the switch/edge test.

#3002 3 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

If I knew how to read switch edges, I can tell you what that says during a test.

I don't know how to not sound like a jerk, because I don't mean it that way, but it will save you ALOT of time, money, and frustration if you read through some of the advice people are giving you. Learn to use a multimeter, take some time and read up and understand what these tests are, watch some switch matrix videos. You'll be doing yourself a giant favor and be able to easily troubleshoot your game down the road alot faster and cheaper than this approach you are taking now. All the people helping you are passing on the knowledge they gained this way...you would make your life alot easier by putting in some effort to really wrap your head around what they are saying so you can understand WHY things are working or not working when you start messing with things.

#3003 3 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

Yes, that part I understand now. but on the T1 setting, how come it only lets you select three switches? The only black wires I have on this harness are not connected to anything.

Just use the edge test for now. It does everything you need.

Get all the switches re-connected and tested.

If there a a couple that are balky get back to them later.

Sometimes they are interconnected to other things.

They will work later.

Move on.

#3004 3 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Just use the edge test for now. It does everything you need.
Get all the switches re-connected and tested.
If there a a couple that are balky get back to them later.
Sometimes they are interconnected to other things.
They will work later.
Move on.

I do notice there are some grey wires running to the top switches that are not being messed with yet. That connection we where not sure of a few posts back. IF those are not connected to anything, would that possibly make some of the others that need them not work?

I will reconnect everything on Friday when My Molex Crimps and correct white/green wire comes in. I will make doubly and tripply sure everything is tight and un moving before re soldering and test them one at a time to make sure they all still work. But at least now I've narrowed it down to not being a bad diode on one of the switches causing something, or metal touching where it shouldn't be. If the others still work disconnected and those don't still work, one would think it'd be another problem.

#3005 3 days ago
Quoted from grantopia:

I don't know how to not sound like a jerk, because I don't mean it that way, but it will save you ALOT of time, money, and frustration if you read through some of the advice people are giving you. Learn to use a multimeter, take some time and read up and understand what these tests are, watch some switch matrix videos. You'll be doing yourself a giant favor and be able to easily troubleshoot your game down the road alot faster and cheaper than this approach you are taking now. All the people helping you are passing on the knowledge they gained this way...you would make your life alot easier by putting in some effort to really wrap your head around what they are saying so you can understand WHY things are working or not working when you start messing with things.

Trying not to be a jerk in replying, it's not meant to be that way, but cause I get stuff like this all the time too . But I have been. When waiting for a reply here, I've been scowering youtube to see if I can find something that would answer it in the meantime. A few times I was successful, like a problem I was having with the start switch. I've printed out DA's dissertation a few posts back for when I get around to doing final wiring on 16 and 17 so I don't make a mistake.

I also read EVERYTHING that's posted. I may not understand some of the technical stuff as well on the first pass...that will always be a challenge, but I do re read it just to make sure I'm understanding it right.

Keep in mind I've never seen the inside of a pinball machine before this. everyone here has helped me every step of the way and it's only because of that, that I've been able to get this far.. If this thing ever gets done, I would hope the mods archive this thread for eternity, and maybe even charge people for access. it should be the only addams build thread anyone will eve need at this point . they could pay for their hosting fees alone ;o).

#3006 3 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Sometimes they are interconnected to other things.

Case in point:

I was hooking up the lamps on my Fumhouse Resto.

Everything worked except the start button lamp. It worked but didnt flash like it should.

I traced the wires, checked the schematic, posted on Pinside, no one had a clue.

I put it aside and figuered that it must be interconnected somewhere.

As I got the driver board populated more and more and was near finished with the solenoids, the start lamp began to flash.

The flashing of that lamp is not documented in the manual or schematic per se.

Its hooked into another flashing circuit and not documented well.

Pinball wiring and schematics are a representation of what things might be, or how they could be done.

Factory fixes are never documented. Wires are often moved to another similar location on the assembly line etc to make it easier to build or use less wire.

Even wire colors sometimes dont match up if they didnt have the right colors.

#3007 3 days ago

Case in point #2:

I had completely finished my Doctor Who high end resto.

Everything is perfect and everything is brand new.

Last thing on the list is the little Lamp board that illuminated the Dalek on top.

Its simple. Its a simple 2 wire circuit.

The manual and the schematic shows exactly where the wires go and how they are hooked up.

On my game this ISN'T how they are at all.

The factory fix was to draw power off the display board instead of the driver board pin. I think to simplify the harness installation on the assembly line.

This is fine, except I upgraded to a colorDMD display and that connection to the old display no longer exists.

So, I have a thin black wire with an IDC connector on it and nowhere to plug it in.

I asked for and received picture from generous pinsiders, this was partially helpful.

The connector location from the maual already has a connector on it.

The pin on the driver board already has a wire going to it.

Im left with a little 4 pin IDC connector with a single wire on it dangling in my backbox.

The solution was to cut off the connector and simply double up the wire on the pin that it was supposed to go to.

So now there are 2 wires on that driver board pin instead of one from the manual schemtic.

It works perfectly.

It took me 4 days to sort out this silly little lamp connection.

So, in pinball, not everything is rock solid and perfect.

There are lots of errors and omissions in the documentation.

The Idea is to have a basic understanding and move on.

Solutions will present themselves.

#3008 3 days ago

Point taken.

Seeing as how it's only three switches, if the rest of the group agrees with that consensus, I will re hook up the working ones Friday when the new stuff arrives and then move on to the lights. Will hook up ONE light to get it working to see how it's done, then leave it be till monday and figure out the rest.

#3009 3 days ago

If you are still not sure what the edge test is showing you, I'll try to help with that. If you do, please feel free to ignore this.

The switch edge test doesn't "step" through the switches like the solenoid test or lamp test. Rather, it looks for a change in any switch's state (from off to on or open to closed). When the MPU detects that a switch has been activated, it will display that switches number and the colors of the wires that are connected to it. When you enter this test mode, even the test buttons on the back of the coin door will be displayed. The image you posted shows D1 OPEN and Org-Brn Black. This is telling you that the last switch or button that changed was (according to the switch matrix in the manual) the default (I assume) Left Coin Chute. If you activate a different button like "START", it will change to 13 Grn/Brn Wht/Org it will say closed while the button is held down and change to open when the button is released. You will also see Column 1 and Row 3 activate and deactivate in the matrix display. The same is true for all of the other switches as well. It will give you the information that is captured in the switch matrix from the manual (or at least it should).

#3010 3 days ago
Quoted from Walamab:

If you are still not sure what the edge test is showing you, I'll try to help with that. If you do, please feel free to ignore this.
The switch edge test doesn't "step" through the switches like the solenoid test or lamp test. Rather, it looks for a change in any switch's state (from off to on or open to closed). When the MPU detects that a switch has been activated, it will display that switches number and the colors of the wires that are connected to it. When you enter this test mode, even the test buttons on the back of the coin door will be displayed. The image you posted shows D1 OPEN and Org-Brn Black. This is telling you that the last switch or button that changed was (according to the switch matrix in the manual) the default (I assume) Left Coin Chute. If you activate a different button like "START", it will change to 13 Grn/Brn Wht/Org it will say closed while the button is held down and change to open when the button is released. You will also see Column 1 and Row 3 activate and deactivate in the matrix display. The same is true for all of the other switches as well. It will give you the information that is captured in the switch matrix from the manual (or at least it should).

OK, I think I understood that . that would explain the only three buttons thing . And yep, just tested one switch and it showed only that one switch. OK, Got it now .

#3011 3 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

Trying not to be a jerk in replying, it's not meant to be that way, but cause I get stuff like this all the time too . But I have been. When waiting for a reply here, I've been scowering youtube to see if I can find something that would answer it in the meantime. A few times I was successful, like a problem I was having with the start switch. I've printed out DA's dissertation a few posts back for when I get around to doing final wiring on 16 and 17 so I don't make a mistake.
I also read EVERYTHING that's posted. I may not understand some of the technical stuff as well on the first pass...that will always be a challenge, but I do re read it just to make sure I'm understanding it right.
Keep in mind I've never seen the inside of a pinball machine before this. everyone here has helped me every step of the way and it's only because of that, that I've been able to get this far.. If this thing ever gets done, I would hope the mods archive this thread for eternity, and maybe even charge people for access. it should be the only addams build thread anyone will eve need at this point . they could pay for their hosting fees alone ;o).

Understood, just trying to help you help yourself ha. For example, a few posts back you have this:

I followed back the other wires to see where they lead, and everything SEEMS OK. Nothing looks burnt. Nothing looks like it has a dent in it.
Nothing looks like it has a cut in it.

If you used a multimeter you could just check quickly and see where you lose continuity between the wires, or if you lose it at all, instead of relying on a visual inspection, which generally isn't reliable when it comes to most things pinball.

It's your game and your dime so do as you will, but it seems like you're doing alot of "measure once, cut twice, then cut again, then start over". I've got no dog in the fight but I think you'd be amazed how taking some time to get pinball basics down would benefit you. If I'd never seen the inside of a game before the last thing I'd want to do is put one together from scratch without understanding the fundamentals.

#3012 2 days ago

getting the top connects back in shape and soldered. will leave the rest for tomorrow when the crimps come in. making sure everything is nice and tight and none moving.

#3013 2 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

getting the top connects back in shape and soldered. will leave the rest for tomorrow when the crimps come in. making sure everything is nice and tight and none moving.

Dont let the wire or anything move until the solder sets up, or cools a bit.

This will help prevent those "cold" joints.

Keep the tip of the iron and everything clean, no black crap in the solder.

#3014 2 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Dont let the wire or anything move until the solder sets up, or cools a bit.
This will help prevent those "cold" joints.
Keep the tip of the iron and everything clean, no black crap in the solder.

pop bumpers work again, Everything on the top above Grave A works again. Will Do the Swamp Millions later. and leave the rest for tomorrow.

I have to count down the seconds for the solder to cool to make sure it doesn't move. usually counting to ten will do it.

#3015 2 days ago

I love this thread but am totally amazed that you are doing a scratch built with almost no soldering or multimeter skills. Holy Christ

#3016 2 days ago
Quoted from hoby1:

I love this thread but am totally amazed that you are doing a scratch built with almost no soldering or multimeter skills. Holy Christ

I am learning as I go. I always knew this would be the hardest part.

#3017 2 days ago
Quoted from hoby1:

I love this thread but am totally amazed that you are doing a scratch built with almost no soldering or multimeter skills. Holy Christ

Everyone is a beginner at some point.

The key is persistence. Practice makes perfect!

#3018 2 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Everyone is a beginner at some point.
The key is persistence. Practice makes perfect!

And I saw your point earlier in action today. I forgot that if you don't hook up the Grave A switch, Thing Eject AND Thing Hole, only one or none of those switches will work. hooked up all three and boom, it was working.

So, tomorrow, I will hook up swamp millions with my new green wire properly. same goes for swamps 71-74. Kickouts get re connected, 25 and 26 get reconnected, and chair kickout gets reconnected. then the switches should all be working and spoken for minus 16, 75 and 78. and hopefully those will be working once the top ones get hooked up.

Hoping to try my first light hook up tomorrow. I will not rush it either. one, done, and leave it be for the weekend. hopefully the lights and solenoids go a little easier.

#3019 2 days ago

Shredder565 when you finish your game should consider a custom plaque similar to the gold games. Serial 1 of 1.

Maybe call it the special pinside edition in honor of the help this thread has contributed.

#3020 1 day ago

OK, more progress. everything except the usual culprits work again. I feel more confident that it's a more secure solder than last time, so it wasn't a wasted effort. Just have to redoo the swamp ones and I can get on to my first light.

#3021 1 day ago
Quoted from cconway84:

Shredder565 when you finish your game should consider a custom plaque similar to the gold games. Serial 1 of 1.
Maybe call it the special pinside edition in honor of the help this thread has contributed.

anyone know a plaque place? I'd bring this thing on tour if it weren't a pain in the butt ;o).

#3022 1 day ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

anyone know a plaque place? I'd bring this thing on tour if it weren't a pain in the butt ;o).

https://pinballfanatic.com/product/addams-family-pinball-gorgeous-collectors-plaque/

This guy does reproductions of the Addams gold plaques. He lets you specify your number but not sure that is the direction you want to go.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/870843203/bally-williams-midway-stern-pinball

Williams style cabinet decals w serial number model and date of manufacture. You can customize all the details and put one in the cabinet or on cabinet back.

#3023 1 day ago

I actually rather like the first one . might look into that.

Still have to work on the swamp switches. might not get to those today. if no first light today, definetly monday.

BTW, all Molex connectors are back on . thanks for the proper sized crimps earlier .

Lots of good progress last two days.

#3024 1 day ago

Leaving this for Monday. Lets see if we can get one working first. hopefully the rest will be easy to figure out after that first one.

307457771_10159854920725211_1750680649981520820_n (resized).jpg
#3025 1 day ago

also, never bought from mouser electronics before. this a good place to get extension wire? still need the right yellow for the lights. Jameco was ok, but shipping took about 6 days.

https://www.mouser.com/c/wire-cable/?q=wire&wire%20gauge%20-%20awg=18%20AWG

#3026 1 day ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

also, never bought from mouser electronics before. this a good place to get extension wire? still need the right yellow for the lights. Jameco was ok, but shipping took about 6 days.
https://www.mouser.com/c/wire-cable/?q=wire&wire%20gauge%20-%20awg=18%20AWG

Mouser is great.

#3027 1 day ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

also, never bought from mouser electronics before. this a good place to get extension wire? still need the right yellow for the lights. Jameco was ok, but shipping took about 6 days.
https://www.mouser.com/c/wire-cable/?q=wire&wire%20gauge%20-%20awg=18%20AWG

https://wirebot.xyz/

#3029 1 day ago

Dam man.... Your making twitchy and guessing myself with all ythis soldering/ desoldering stufff.... Send me your address and I see d ya the best fkn solder you can work with free. Low melting point
Still in the wrapper..... but your not getting the whole roll

#3030 17 hours ago

Did not know about this wire supplier. Looks like a great place to source wire.

#3031 16 hours ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Did not know about this wire supplier. Looks like a great place to source wire.

He is specializing in pinball wire with correct colors by the foot.

#3032 16 hours ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

He is specializing in pinball wire with correct colors by the foot.

And he ships extremely quickly.

#3033 16 hours ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

And he ships extremely quickly.

Yep, He's my new source!

#3034 13 hours ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

OK, more progress. everything except the usual culprits work again. I feel more confident that it's a more secure solder than last time, so it wasn't a wasted effort. Just have to redoo the swamp ones and I can get on to my first light.

I forgot to mention that I use silicone finger protectors to hold wires closely to the heat so they dont move.

I can do a professional job and not worry about burnt fingers and can hold the wire very close to the joint.

This is especially handy in very tight places where the wires might be short.

When I do a whole playfield, my fingers used to be sore the next day from all the heat and minor burns.

These work very well and are large enough for my fat fingers.

There are a lot of others, but I use these, they are thicker than most:

amazon.com link »
20220924_141626 (resized).jpg20220924_142139 (resized).jpg

#3035 9 hours ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Did not know about this wire supplier. Looks like a great place to source wire.

neither did I. last time I did a search, one that showed up was jameco, so tried them. will try these guys next.

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