4k? Doesn't that vpin place sell a flat pack for $99? The rest of the odds and ends can't be more than $200, and I'm stretching to say it would cost that much. I picked up a used sys 11 head with parts that could sub into a wpc for $20.
This has to be sarcasm

Bundle them as you go. Zip tie the finished wiring, use stand offs with wire holders. Include wiring tags before the connectors. Write out your tags before wiring so you aren't trying to remember the tag->component mapping in the middle of the work.
I tend to be pathologically disorganized, so I recognize the problem and build work habits around it.

Maybe he is including $3700 in power tools?

Sweet bud your doing everything very well ,hope the best can't wait too see it going together

It’s going to cost a lot more than $12k

Now that my conscience is clear and I have warned you about losing your shirt on this insane endeavor, I feel like I can fully enjoy the glory of this thread. Thank you for attempting such an insane project in public.......why am I thanking you, because we have all thought about it, but didn’t have the balls (pinballs) to do it! This thread should be epic!! Please post as many picture as possible! I am already hooked!

My hat too him as I am very good at restoring pins for inside too outside but I don't think I would try this hope this goes well

With around 4k I would certainly expect more than some cheap wooden box.. I would start with dried and cured Wisconsin maple, and milled oak, chrome, nickel plate everything, make all custom hardware (that can't be bought from your favorite vendors) make a custom stainless mirror for the oak light board, dye mil spec wire to have appropriate traces and colors, give it a paint job to die for, buff and polish everything till it shines just like the hood of a new Ferrari, and screenprint the back, But that's just me, and certainly would start with a reference machine, sorry for bad pics, I am new here and dont quite have a grasp on that yet...Btw, I am a girl. (Wink)
Screenshot_20191221-235006_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20191221-235025_Gallery (resized).jpg

Wow your really going all out ,this must be your best game you like a lot

Are you sure that putting a backplane on the light board isn't going to cause problems and short out all the lights? I'm thinking that's what may happen if you staple both legs of each lamp socket to it. I don't think I've seen anyone use a backplane on the light board before.

Also, that open electrical panel in the background looks a little concerning.

Otherwise, the backbox looks pretty nice

My apologies for an unwarranted assumption.
That's an impressive backbox. You should create a thread for your work.

ForceFlow, clever, not many people would draw that conclusion from that mirror, it is stainless however, and with the high carbon content is actually a poor conductor and the IDC connectors were changed over to solder lugs just to combat that problem, (all is good)....This is not about me however, point is I just didn't want to see the OP get any false hopes on building a cheap dream machine a piece at a time. They are very precise expensive and require a lot of different skill sets.

When the new pf turns up the first job will most likely be to hammer in the t nuts, but there are usually 2 different sizes so will need to use the correct t nut in the correct hole Which might be hard without a ref. Hopefully some one can say what goes where.

I don’t think Adams uses braid GI so that’s one step you can skip

That's a ground strap, All machines need that... The GI is dyed 600v mil spec.

Screenshot_20191218-161512_Gallery (resized).jpg

You really need your own thread to showcase this build...It looks great

The clear pop bumper is the one thats cut off to fit.

The third step is to find someone close to you that owns a TAF and doesn't mind to have the hood popped for pics. No matter how many photos that you see on line, there will come a point where you have to check out one, close up. When visiting this person always bring a case of beer or a bottle of spirits or a dozen shiny pinballs or equivalent.
Wally

here is a hot ridded pins TAF with a few photos of the finished game - good to add to the collection for your project

http://hotroddedpins.com/examples-1#/addams-family-black-2012

also here is a guy doing a 7 part restoration of TAF, though I doubt he should drilling out some of those holes in the playfield - double check here when you get to that stage.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrZB72rsf672laK0DLzAFbg

This machine your building will be one of a kind for sure you should open up a new tread for what your doing and keep the pics coming for sure and great job keep up the great work

I good donor gAme just popped up in market

Make a mask and paint it. It would look a lot better.

Just build one out of pipe.

Vid's quick and dirty guide thread.

Its easy and inexpensive.

I built 2 of them.

I bought one like this off ebay and sold it when I was done. Ended up out about $50 for "renting" it for 6 months.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-PINTIS

Here is a fellow pinsider making them.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gauging-interest-in-all-metal-pf-rotisseries-for-18000-shipped

I built skypilots and am still using it.. another option although it takes a bit more footprint

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/89960

Have you got anything else coming in as for parts u need

Just borrow one from a local Pinsider near you. It would help if you have your location on your user name too. My rotisserie was out on loan for about 2 years to a local Pinsider and just came back. I now need to do 2 playfield swaps before it is available to be loaned out again. I am sure you have someone local to you that can loan theirs out.

1 or 2 more parts and your done

So, have you started sourcing wire for your harness?

I still think your crazy. You need to at least start with an used wired Addams playfield or someone out there who parted one out years ago and you can just purchase the box of playfield parts.

Agreed, plus 2 used wiring harnesses, most definitely

This thread is sad. This poor guy won't listen to reason, and is going to dump a ton of money into this only to end up with a pile of parts that he will never get his money back on.

Just stop now and buy a nice used Addams.

What playfield are you ordering? A Mirco? Or a CPR Silver/Bronze? I've thought about selling my CPR Gold, but I'd probably regret it someday.

Both have their own set of issues. I have a friend who does restoration swaps for a living and he actually tells people he charges extra for CPR swaps. a friendly suggestion, if you plan on keeping it then send it to HEP to get properly drilled and nutted. And personally if I was going to do that step I'd have him clear coat it as well but only if I WAS SURE it would eventually be used because you'll likely never get your investment back out of it as a barren playfield.

I'd leave that up to the buyer if I sold it. I had 2. Sold one last March for $952 shipped, which was pretty much exactly what I paid for it after shipping costs.

I thought HEP said he wasn't doing playfields anymore in the WH20 thread. I was thinking Kruzman if I was planning to use it.

This is true of most if not all reproduction playfields. The dimples are never 100% correct and usually a lot of holes are missing. If you use the reproduction playfield as is with the incorrect/shifted dimple holes, the game will not play correctly.

CPR would be fine. I've installed a couple of them and unlike what some say here about missing holes, etc., I can't remember having any issues.

Used wire is a bad idea, Those IDCs not only displaced (cut) the insulation but also compromised strands of the wire making it quite unreliable even as new.