(Topic ID: 257696)
Linked Games
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
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Quoted from Shredder565:The Flashers! They do Not-thing!
Well, not yet. but I am 98% certain they are all in the right spot at least. iffy on the top ones. I think the one next to thing needs to be moved to the top right hole.
Anything look missing or out of place? Because minus some brackets for the kickers coming this week, and some 3 replacement switch brackets, the Underside SHOULD have everything on it it needs and 99% complete.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I also finally found one image on how the top and bottom book case opto's get wired.
[quoted image]
The manual is good showing the flasher locations. 17-22 are the flashers. There are none in the back box other than the three (same circuit) for the cloud topper.
7BAB88F7-E887-4722-9F76-EF6F438EBAA6 (resized).jpegAre your pop lamp staples in far enough? Look like not fully inserted from photos? But might be optical illusion.
Hanover, NJ
Quoted from russdx:Are your pop lamp staples in far enough? Look like not fully inserted from photos? But might be optical illusion.
The wires DO slide a bit too easily through them. I could try and get them closer to the metal. not sure why it wouldn't be closer to begin with.
I ordered the last of the circuit board standoffs, some wire for the book case opto's, 4 screw plates, and a set screw. once those get here, it should be at 100% and ready for light wiring.
Quoted from dmacy:The manual is good showing the flasher locations. 17-22 are the flashers. There are none in the back box other than the three (same circuit) for the cloud topper.
[quoted image]
sometimes it's tough for my stupid brain to figure out the reverse image side. so occasionally, I will get settings wrong, even though I followed the manual. for example, I'm not sure that light to the left of the top bumper is in the right place. if you try to mentally flip the manual image, I think it belongs more to the right, but there is no hole there.
Yeah I do a handful of playfield swaps and swapped things wrong left to right many of times! Fortunately for me I am not going from scratch and original wire has memory though.
It helps to lay out the GI and other stuff. Placing those flashers last isn’t too bad. I know the ones you have at the lightning bolts are right. I can’t compare to my own game right now as it’s covered under parts from other swaps now.
I have some good underside pics for a few TAF swaps if you don’t have any other confirmation.
IF you happen to have one of just the lights, or mostly just the lights, it'd help 
. I saw another picture in another build thread that looked like it had five or six lamps to the right of thing, where the manual shows none. thinking that might be a custom jobby.
I also think i'm going to redo the pop bumper screws once everything else is finalized... and before I start finishing up the top.. I'll just place a small screw or something to cover up the other holes. won't look pretty, but at least I'll know they are stable. If I recall right, there was a certain way to do that, but I did it a slightly different way because I was worried about breaking something and used a tap drill to get the screws in easier. obviously that didn't work so great.
Quoted from dmacy:Yeah I do a handful of playfield swaps and swapped things wrong left to right many of times! Fortunately for me I am not going from scratch and original wire has memory though.
I saved a WHOLE bunch of topside pics from your build thread for later. I also want to make sure my targets are positioned properly before I flip it over.
Kamloops, BC
Quoted from tomdotcom:You really need to get a complete Addams to compare yours too. Crazy you even got this far. Good luck man.
That would be easiest, but he has us and we will all stumble through this together until it's complete 
Quoted from transprtr4u:The Addams Family built by pinsiders
It REALLY REALLY was. and add to that, thankfully for THIS game there is alot of documention....I couldn't have done it without everyone here putting up with the questions . it's majorly appreciated
I don't think I could do this again with my other favorite, TNG, for instance
Missing diodes came in today. so, minus some screw plates to attach them too, all switches are properly done. All Flashers should be done. Circuit Board standoffs come tommorow or Monday, as well as final Circuit board pointed out missing. So hoefully by TUESDAY the bottom should be done, and I can flip it over and take a look at these pop bumpers as the last item to try and fix.
I can start focusing on the top sometime mid september. maybe done by october?
I also moved the diverter assembly on the r ight so it's facing the proper way, and in the proper hole, along with the proper set screw to keep it in place so that is done.
So, today's mission. the Pop Bumpers. I wanted to try it with ONE and see what the forum thought.
First I removed them. some of the pop bumper screws where so loose, they slid right out of the playfield, which was obviously part of the problem. I re drilled the holes with the first test subject, hammered them in the proper way, and BOOM. TEN TIMES more stable. only one problem, it's a tad off. would it still work ok?
IF not, is there any way I can re fill those holes so it's like new wood and try again with the originals?
300306316_10159799385485211_256113626224443236_n (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:So, today's mission. the Pop Bumpers. I wanted to try it with ONE and see what the forum thought.
First I removed them. some of the pop bumper screws where so loose, they slid right out of the playfield, which was obviously part of the problem. I re drilled the holes with the first test subject, hammered them in the proper way, and BOOM. TEN TIMES more stable. only one problem, it's a tad off. would it still work ok?
IF not, is there any way I can re fill those holes so it's like new wood and try again with the originals?[quoted image]
Like LTG said.
Cut pieces of a bamboo skewer or round wooden toothpick 3/8" long.
Dip them in titebond III, push them into the holes.
One or 2 pieces does the trick on most badly stripped holes. Sometimes 3 pieces.
Wipe of any extra glue on the surface.
Let them dry 2 mins
Screw the part back on.
If the screws strip out, do it again.
I have put in 4 or 5 bits of skewer into badly stripped holes and it holds perfectly.
If the toothpick pieces stick out a tiny bit, its ok.
The hole will be stronger than the original wood as its now reinforced with resin.
On my Doctor Who Resto, every single screw was stripped out. Its much stronger now.
I made a box of little wood pieces and used most of them.
I will put that on order, and give it a try soon with the original holes. At least I got one that I more or less know is stable for now .
New circuit board for thing arrived today, standoffs arrived. it's getting closer .
hoping for a new underside completion date of next week. wood working stuff arrives tuesday. so hopefully I can get those holes filled and re tapped the right way.
I finally found where that kicker switch assy goes. I was searching for it in the manual under the wrong name. When I saw that one of the holes had the same layout as the bracket mine came with, I looked up THAT part, and there it was. Soldering my second one for the other side monday and dropping it in. as someone said earlier, with alot of help, and the manual, we will muddle through this build somehow together .
I'd be absolutely SHOCKED if it required very little fine tuning. is there a way to hook it up to the machine on the Rotis and test everything before lifting it in? damn thing has to be heavy by now .
Quoted from Shredder565:I'd be absolutely SHOCKED if it required very little fine tuning. is there a way to hook it up to the machine on the Rotis and test everything before lifting it in? damn thing has to be heavy by now .
Yes, thats how I do it.
The harnesses reach quite aways.
Place your rotisserie near the cabinet and plug harness wires in one by one as you complete the circuits.
I usually start with the GI lighting, then the switches, then the solenoids.
You can actually finish the entire game on the rotisserie, then unplug everything (unless you had room to run the cables underneath and through the backbox hole), install it in the game (with help, its heavy), then plug everything back in, if you unplugged it all.
Its not too bad really.
Its easiest to put the heavy playfield in, with the cabinet on the floor or on a table lift close to the ground (off its legs).
Then raise it onto its legs.
A lot of us have something like the harbor freight lift table mod to help get games on the legs.
Its really handy, I have 2 of them.
Another way is to hang the playfield from ceiling hooks by its front hangers, then raise the cabinet up to get it set on the playfield holders.
Or just man handle it in! 2 people can do it if you do it in stages, you'll see.
I often do the testing on rotisserie when possible too. A lot easier to adjust things like switches, etc.
well, that's good to know at least. I won't have to take it on and off a dozen times for little fixes.
that actually worked...surprisingly well.
I've got TWO back in. Perfectly stable now. and I made sure that the little switch tab is perfectly alligned with the hole this time. I bent a few screws getting them out, so will have to wait for the next five to come in from action pinball later this week.
So, hoping for a underside completion date of friday now .
Quoted from Shredder565:[quoted image]
Much easier to cut pieces of skewers first, than to do it after.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Much easier to cut pieces of skewers first, than to do it after.
I wanted to ha ve enough to really b ang it in there, to make sure it went all the way through the hole, but yeah, found that out. at least the bumpers will be in right and stable now.
once the underside is confirmed good by the group, I will begin figuring out light wiring.
Truganina
Quoted from radium:Can't tell you how much stuff I've fixed with glue and skewers.
I have also used toothpicks and bits of zip ties jammed into the hole.
Both work acceptably well.
Techniques I learned as a sparky...
In the 'Olden Days' scrap timber was frequently used in masonry/bricks as fixings before the days of white/green/red/blue masonry plugs.
Matt.
I do believe the bottom half is done. there are still some empty holes...feels like i'm missing lights not mentioned in the manual. same goes for the top to the right side of thing. but all that should be left is to get the remaining pop bumpers back in. maybe friday?
298986744_10159805639530211_6470015160058178754_n (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:I do believe the bottom half is done. there are still some empty holes...feels like i'm missing lights not mentioned in the manual. same goes for the top to the right side of thing. but all that should be left is to get the remaining pop bumpers back in. maybe friday?[quoted image]
You screwed everything down before putting on the wire harnesses? On the next game, try doing the GI lights and harness first, then switches and switch harness, then solenoids.
Quoted from Shredder565:there are still some empty holes...feels like i'm missing lights not mentioned in the manual.
Off the top of my head, your Shoot Again lamp socket is missing, as is the far right ball trough switch.
Also, not missing, but the placement of your shooter lane feeder arm looks a little concerning. That's the curved metal kicking arm that pushes a ball out of the trough into the shooter lane. On this pic it looks like it's pretty far from where it is normally mounted. It might have some trouble releasing a ball, assuming it doesn't just entirely bind up.
I actually posted a (largely ignored) guide to ball trough adjustment on both ends, which might help. There are a few things you might double-check. There's a photo about 3/4 down the page showing a pretty straight angle of the mechanism I'm talking about here. You can compare that to what you have here to see how you might need to move that mech.
hmm, the shoot again WAS there, not sure how that got missing. it's been there for months.
I'll check out the guide now. sometimes I miss or forget about posts .
Quoted from Shredder565:sometimes I miss or forget about posts
Oh, don't worry, I hadn't posted it in this thread. Just a general tech topic that didn't get a lot of notice.
Some holes in the playfield that look like they are for lights are for wire pass throughs. Some of the plastics and the ramps and wiring that will go through with the Molex plug.
Quoted from dmacy:Some holes in the playfield that look like they are for lights are for wire pass throughs. Some of the plastics and the ramps and wiring that will go through with the Molex plug.
this was the photo I found in someone elses build thread. those look like lights in my now empty holes.
pinball (07) (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:this was the photo I found in someone elses build thread. those look like lights in my now empty holes.[quoted image]
Yea that’s correct. I know the floor is the great Chris of HEP. So you know that is accurate.
Below are some more (not so great quality but can be used) images of the GI.
Some of the bulb sockets you have used for GI are three lug sockets and positioned too low from the playfield surface. The GI is a much more shallow socket with two lugs. I think these (https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A-11905) are what you want.
taf_gi_1.jpgtaf_gi_2.jpgtaf_gi_3.jpgtaf_gi_4.jpgtaf_gi_5.jpg
it's weird though. because the lamps, and t he flashers don't show any lights in those area, unless I have an earlier one with mistakes.
or it's just personal preference.
Once my pop bumper rods get here and those are properly in, I will take a 4K Video of the entire field. if everything looks good, I will start soldering some lights .
CpWz_002 (resized).jpgCpWz_003 (resized).jpgQuoted from DumbAss:Below are some more (not so great quality but can be used) images of the GI.
Some of the bulb sockets you have used for GI are three lug sockets and positioned too low from the playfield surface. The GI is a much more shallow socket with two lugs. I think these (https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A-11905) are what you want. ]
those images do help for sure. but I didn't think the lights poked through the playfield and you needed the taller one. Do all of them need the shorter holder?
Quoted from Shredder565:those images do help for sure. but I didn't think the lights poked through the playfield and you needed the taller one. Do all of them need the shorter holder?
Unfortunately these images have the bulbs removed but you can see where the bulb socket sits.
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