(Topic ID: 257696)

Addams Family - Scratch Build?

By Shredder565

1 year ago


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  • 171 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by Tophervette
  • Topic is favorited by 120 Pinsiders

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“This project is”

  • Ambitious 91 votes
    42%
  • insane 105 votes
    48%
  • will be undone by a official remake in a few months..:) 22 votes
    10%

(218 votes)

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There are 2,511 posts in this topic. You are on page 50 of 51.
#2451 45 days ago
Quoted from russdx:

ppl needing help

Or looking for 1/2 the parts they would forget to pack , as we all know Stern QC is perfect

2 weeks later
#2452 31 days ago

unless they had the worlds best, most detailed 100 page instruction manual.

a Kit would be great. I'd definitely order one for Star Trek TNG and call it quits .
I do not think I will do another one after this. fun project, and well worth it, but a money pit ;o).

might be ready to start ordering switches in the next week. will try to get them all at once.

#2453 26 days ago

thus begins the slow final trek. trying to get all these switches organized and found.

CpWz_005 (resized).jpg
#2454 26 days ago

So, Marco had maybe 65% of the list. and some of the items I had already.

whenever I pull the switch on this, it'll be about $510's.

Eject switch & bracket assembly right #A-9381-R
Weight: 2 oz
Dimensions: 0.5 X 3 X 1
1
$16.99 $16.99
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Opto board #A-15285
Weight: 0.407 oz
Dimensions: 1.25 X 2.75 X 0.5
1
$39.99 $39.99
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Opto board #A-15285
Weight: 0.407 oz
Dimensions: 1.25 X 2.75 X 0.5
1
$39.99 $39.99
Rollover switch & bracket assembly #A-12688
Weight: 0.32 oz
Dimensions: 2.5 X 2.5 X 1
1
$8.99 $8.99
Rollover switch & bracket assembly #A-12688
Weight: 0.32 oz
Dimensions: 2.5 X 2.5 X 1
1
$8.99 $8.99
Rollover switch & bracket assembly #A-12688
Weight: 0.32 oz
Dimensions: 2.5 X 2.5 X 1
1
$8.99 $8.99
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Swamp scoop brkt. #A-14965
Weight: 0.7 lb
Dimensions: 3.625 X 5 X 5
1
$131.99 $131.99
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) subway chute assy #A-15070
Weight: 5 oz
Dimensions: 5 X 14 X 2
1
$59.99 $59.99
Rollover switch & bracket assembly #A-12688
Weight: 0.32 oz
Dimensions: 2.5 X 2.5 X 1
1
$8.99 $8.99
Ball gate assembly left #A-13627-2
Weight: 1.03 oz
Dimensions: 2.5 X 3.5 X 1.2
1
$28.99 $28.99
Rollover switch & bracket assembly #A-12688
Weight: 0.32 oz
Dimensions: 2.5 X 2.5 X 1
1
$8.99 $8.99
Ball gate bracket & switch assembly #A-14492
Weight: 0.87 oz
Dimensions: 1.875 X 1.5 X 3
1
$24.99 $24.99
Switch and bracket assembly #A-15372
Weight: 3 oz
Dimensions: 2 X 1 X 3
1
$13.99 $13.99
Pop bumper leaf switch assembly #B-12030-2
Weight: 3 oz
Dimensions: 1 X 2 X 3
5
$15.99 $79.95
Switch assembly - shooter lane #A-11619
Weight: 0.2 oz
Dimensions: 2 X 2.5 X 0.25
1
$9.99 $9.99
Rollover switch & bracket assembly #A-12688
Weight: 0.32 oz
Dimensions: 2.5 X 2.5 X 1
3
$8.99 $26.97
Switch subminiature with bracket #A-11680
Weight: 0.34 oz
Dimensions: 0 X 0 X 0
1
$8.99 $8.99

#2455 26 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

I do not think I will do another one after this.

Shredder565 - It's a massive undertaking that you, er, undertook! But please don't get disheartened and give it up! Brilliant work, and it's been a pleasure to watch your progress. Keep going, I'm sure a lot of pinsiders (including myself) are following this and rooting for your success. You will have a unique TAF to be proud of.

1 week later
#2456 17 days ago

pulled the trigger on some of the switches.
Are these easy enough to place and assemble?

After I get the switches installed, there can't be that much more left for the bottom to place.

Pop bumper leaf switch assembly B-12030-2 5 $15.99 $79.95
Switch and bracket assembly A-15372 1 $13.99 $13.99
Ball gate bracket & switch assembly A-14492 1 $24.99 $24.99
Ball gate assembly left A-13627-2 1 $28.99 $28.99
Switch subminiature with bracket A-11680 1 $8.99 $8.99
Rollover switch & bracket assembly A-12688 6 $8.99 $53.94
Eject switch & bracket assembly right A-9381-R 1 $16.99 $16.99
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Thing red box 03-8581 1 $69.99 $69.99
Shipping Information
FEDEX Second Day (2 bus. days, by 5 PM)
Subtotal:$297.83Shipping:$25.98Sales Tax:$0.00Total:$323.81

#2457 14 days ago

switches arrive today. hoping they are easy to figure out and install

#2458 14 days ago

Glad to see you pressing on, your getting very close dont lose interest now.

#2459 14 days ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Glad to see you pressing on, your getting very close dont lose interest now.

not so much loosing interest as not enough money . had to wait a month or so for funds to slowly build back up

#2460 14 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

not so much loosing interest as not enough money . had to wait a month or so for funds to slowly build back up

That's what has held me back from attempting a TOTAN scratch build. Lamp assembly alone is $650.

#2461 14 days ago

order arrived, now to keep things organized.

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#2462 14 days ago

oh boy. first, have to assemble them. THEN hope they are all in the right place.

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#2463 13 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

oh boy. first, have to assemble them. THEN hope they are all in the right place.
[quoted image]

Put the diodes on ALL the switches first, then install them, then wire them.

Sometimes you will have to unmount a switch to get it wired, then just reinstall it.

If a screw strips out just put a piece of toothpick in the hole with a little titebond on it.

Double and triple check that the diodes go in the right direction to avoid problems later on.

#2464 13 days ago

How do I know which one is the right side of the diode?

How does this look for babies first switch install?

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#2465 13 days ago

Your diode is backwards, make the leads go outwards instead of inwards.

Silver banded side goes towards the "nubby actuator hinge" end of the switch

Chris hutchens posted some great pictures here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/24#post-4689438 (Second picture in the post)

If your soldering on the playfield, put a small rag around the work to catch flux splatters. It will look cleaner when your done.

#2466 13 days ago

it looks like the silver banded side always goes toward the db5 logo. that's an easier way for me to remember it if they are all that way.
It was hard to tell from the picture on the plastic as to which way the diode went, but will fix it now.

Can I solder them in NOW, or should I wait until I have the wires to attach to them ready?

10
#2467 13 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

it looks like the silver banded side always goes toward the db5 logo. that's an easier way for me to remember it if they are all that way.
It was hard to tell from the picture on the plastic as to which way the diode went, but will fix it now.
Can I solder them in NOW, or should I wait until I have the wires to attach to them ready?

Solder the side with the silver band to keep the diode from falling off. Leave the other side of the diode unsoldered and solder it when you attach the wires.

Best thing to do it make up a batch of diodes with the ends bent and cut to attach to the switch so that you loop the diode in the switch lug then solder. This will save you a little bit of time over doing one at a time.

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#2468 12 days ago

any pictures of this sucker complete? been using the image on the package to put 'em together but this one not the best angle .

two installed, 50 to go

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#2469 12 days ago

the rest of the easy ones.

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#2470 12 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

the rest of the easy ones.[quoted image]

You've got the switch mounted backwards. The actuator should be on top of the finger on the bracket.

You'll also want to cut off the excess leads on the diode. You don't need those touching things they shouldn't.

#2471 12 days ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

You've got the switch mounted backwards. The actuator should be on top of the finger on the bracket.
You'll also want to cut off the excess leads on the diode. You don't need those touching things they shouldn't.

I was wondering about the excess as I was putting it on. I wasn't sure if it should be left on just in case it was needed, or cut off once you where sure everything was set.

#2472 12 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

I was wondering about the excess as I was putting it on. I wasn't sure if it should be left on just in case it was needed, or cut off once you where sure everything was set.

Cut them off as you go.

Solder both sides of the diode. The wires are soldered to the legs of the switch on the outsides, just below the diode holes. The wires dont go thru the holes in the switch legs, so you might as well just solder both sides and trim off the excess lead/wire.

Tin the bare wire ends before soldering them on. Then just stick them to the legs with a little more solder.

#2473 12 days ago

And put the diode on right. See picture.

LTG : )

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#2474 12 days ago

how's this one look? this one had no picture on the bag, so I took a guess and of course was wrong

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#2475 12 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Cut them off as you go.
Solder both sides of the diode. The wires are soldered to the legs of the switch on the outsides, just below the diode holes. The wires dont go thru the holes in the switch legs, so you might as well just solder both sides and trim off the excess lead/wire.
Tin the bare wire ends before soldering them on. Then just stick them to the legs with a little more solder.

If you want, you can push/crimp a tiny spade lug connector on to the center leg/wire of the switches.

Its not necessary but makes it easy to tell which wire goes on the center leg.

the other wire ALWAYS goes to the non banded side of the diode.

This is helpful if you have to replace a switch, you only have to solder one side.

#2476 12 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

And put the diode on right. See picture.
LTG : )[quoted image]

this is actually what my electrian co workers could use for the lights ;o). I'm beginning to see why folks here say don't trust electricians for these things, not very useful so far . but they understood the above diagram .

#2477 12 days ago

these don't look TOO bad to solder. the pegs are spaced far enough apart that I don't have to worry about the solder connecting to each other. that's a problem on smaller projects. but doesn't seem like it applies here.

#2478 12 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

how's this one look? this one had no picture on the bag, so I took a guess and of course was wrong [quoted image]

Switch is still mounted backwards in the picture.

the actuator wire goes over the "L" finger of the mounting bracket.

#2479 12 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Switch is still mounted backwards in the picture.
the actuator wire goes over the "L" finger of the mounting bracket.

I had it set up that way before, but I was imagining how the ball would go over it, as it looked like the L part blocked the switch going down..

#2480 12 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

I had it set up that way before, but I was imagining how the ball would go over it, as it looked like the L part blocked the switch going down..

so like this? it seems like the L part might get in the way..

254539466_10159316882600211_580378884864168983_n (resized).jpg
#2482 12 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

so like this? it seems like the L part might get in the way..[quoted image]

Perfect!

You can bend the diode to the right/side a bit with fingers to give you room to install the wire on the center leg of the switch.

#2483 12 days ago

I would use the insulated spade connectors for the center wires to avoid shorts and problems down the road.
Or you have to put on 1" pieces of aquarium tubing over each and every center lug for insurance.

This does 2 things:

Keeps the wire from direct shorting.

Makes it easy to take the switch out of the circuit for testing.

Here is some good info about switches on pinside:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stupid-question-about-micro-switches

Where can one buy the tiny female insulated spade connectors? I just ran out and forgot where I got them 20 years ago...
I was going to post a picture but I used them all up on my Funhouse earlier this year.

#2484 12 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

so like this? it seems like the L part might get in the way..

one down, 150 more to go ....

#2485 12 days ago

Shredder565

I just bought some of these as I ran out of them:

amazon.com link »

PM me your address and Ill send you 50 for free, postage included.

#2486 12 days ago

You will need to get some vinyl tubing to insulate a few things as you wire up the game.

Aquarium tubing works really well in 1/8"-5/32" inside diameter. Home depot or Lowes has it.

Take a diode with you to size up the inside diameter. It just has to fit in easily but not be too big.

Pinrestore has the exact diameter you need:

http://pinrestore.com/Supplies.html

Half way down the page.

#2487 12 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Shredder565
I just bought some of these as I ran out of them:
amazon.com link »
PM me your address and Ill send you 50 for free, postage included.

actually, I'm almost certain we have a stock pile in the back, one of the few good things electricians and a ware house full of junk ARE actually useful for . and I also bought some for something else that I never used them for a while back, so I actually do have a few of these suckers around .

used them alot in my arcade machine too .

#2488 12 days ago

Excellent work on this so far.

Do you have a speaker panel for your game?

I was going through my parts stash the other night and found that I had one I forgot about. Has some scratches in the DMD window, but not too bad. Better than nothing if you didn’t have one yet.

I can hook you up if you need it. Or you can pick it up if you’re down my way. I work in Princeton.

C9C4DBD1-3FC8-4BF5-AC21-FF098BF8B77B (resized).jpeg667D43B6-8093-4456-BAE1-70F5830FDD1C (resized).jpeg

#2489 12 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

actually, I'm almost certain we have a stock pile in the back, one of the few good things electricians and a ware house full of junk ARE actually useful for . and I also bought some for something else that I never used them for a while back, so I actually do have a few of these suckers around .
used them alot in my arcade machine too .

The size you want is:
Size 110 insulated female.

This equals:

2.8mm x .5mm, very small, and fully insulated with a shank for #18 wire.

They can be a bit rare.

Electricians wouldnt have too much of a use for these really. But you never know.

Most spades are too big for the switch leg,
Usually the 187 version thats 1/4" wide, or the 22 version that has a too small of a shank.

See what you have and let me know if you need some.

#2490 12 days ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Excellent work on this so far.
Do you have a speaker panel for your game?
I was going through my parts stash the other night and found that I had one I forgot about. Has some scratches in the DMD window, but not too bad. Better than nothing if you didn’t have one yet.
I can hook you up if you need it. Or you can pick it up if you’re down my way. I work in Princeton.
[quoted image][quoted image]

have one already, thanks .

The Cabinet has been, thankfully, mostly done for about 3 months now. I might be missing one or two things in the base, but not much!

#2491 9 days ago

slowly but surely. light placement will change to prevent shorts

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#2492 9 days ago

You are going to have to adjust those switches so that the actuator wires dont touch the wood at all.

Side drilling the mounting plates to elongate the holes in them will give you the adjustment you need.

When installing them its best to not rely on any dimples in the playfield, but to line them up and make new dimples with a center punch or sharp nail set.

Moving the screws, once installed is difficult do to the close proximities.

#2493 9 days ago

I tried to make it so they where unfettered with movement. but I have it at an angle now, so I can make sure they are going in the right areas. I will re right it later and make sure they all have free movement and are facing the right way.

#2494 9 days ago

Dimitri posted some great photos on here, are you referencing them? Your switch placements seem to be off

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#2495 9 days ago
Quoted from Boat:

Dimitri posted some great photos on here, are you referencing them? Your switch placements seem to be off
[quoted image]

Good catch!

Yep they definitly are installed backwards, I didnt see it that way.

the switches are definitely crowding and slightly covering the light inserts.

That isnt right at all.

A close up of the picture shows dimples for the screws!

#2496 9 days ago

it DOES make sense that way. I was looking for holes, but they where so tiny, I didn't even notice them until you pointed thme out on the photo. now crystal.
and looks like I missed the holes on the other side to heh

chck 5 times, drill once . swiss cheeze ho
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#2497 9 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

it DOES make sense that way. I was looking for holes, but they where so tiny, I didn't even notice them until you pointed thme out on the photo. now crystal.
and looks like I missed the holes on the other side to heh
chck 5 times, drill once . swiss cheeze ho
[quoted image][quoted image]

Most of the markings for drill in screws will be tiny dimples as a reference to where you might put a screw, not holes.

However they are just a guide, often they are not exactly spot on, but close.

Always you have to position the switch or mechanism mounting foot so that it fits properly first.

If the dimples are in the right place, thats a plus, but not a deal breaker.

You will see that over 90-95% of the dimples are really close to where they should be, but dont bet on it.

You will find them if you look closely, they are everywhere for various things.

As always, thin metal takes a gold 3/8" screw, thick metal plate takes a 1/2" screw.

If you think you want to use 5/8" screws, line them up on the edge of the playfield, to make sure what you are installing doesnt poke thru the painted surface.

Be very sure that you have the right screw for what you are installing.
It only takes a second to ruin the surface by guessing.

#2498 9 days ago

One other thing:

You can put a gold 3/8" screw in one of the notches of each T-nut to hold them in, if there is room for it.

Just one screw per T-nut will do.

Its not that important at this time, but if they fall out later on, you can put a small screw next to them to hold them in with the side of the screw head..

#2499 9 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Be very sure that you have the right screw for what you are installing.
It only takes a second to ruin the surface by guessing.

that's been on my mind the entire time, believe me . I always make sure it's the right size, just in case the wrong size got mixed up in the mix along the way .
I think I recall someone stating at the start long ago that most of these holes where just guide suggestions. as each playfield has 'em different places.

So FAR, luckily none of the Tnuts have moved since instal.

#2500 9 days ago

Good rules of thumb are:

  • #6 x 3/8" (usually yellow/gold in color) for lamp sockets. The metal tab with the hole is thin.
  • #6 x 1/2" (usually plain zinc plated steel) for things with a thicker metal tab - like that magnet bracket or the flipper base plate. Most things have a thicker metal tab and will use 1/2". If in doubt use a 3/8" but they are almost exclusively used for lamp sockets, t-nut anchoring and one small cable clamp.
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