(Topic ID: 257696)

Addams Family - Scratch Build?

By Shredder565

1 year ago


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  • 2,445 posts
  • 164 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Mbecker
  • Topic is favorited by 116 Pinsiders

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“This project is”

  • Ambitious 91 votes
    43%
  • insane 102 votes
    48%
  • will be undone by a official remake in a few months..:) 21 votes
    10%

(214 votes)

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There are 2445 posts in this topic. You are on page 49 of 49.
#2401 50 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=rollover+switches
looking at marco and seems alot of choices...which ones should i get and in what quantity? started to see how messy assembling this wire setup will start to get, so want to do as much pre-install stuff as possible to save me some trouble later

The manual has the switch list.

#2402 50 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Do you have the wire loom standoffs?
There are 8 or more with the round cable holders
You lay out the wires to go into the standoffs.
Its good to locate them now.

Yes, get them in place before you do any wiring.

#2403 50 days ago

Last off. First on.

taf_cable_clamps.jpg
#2404 50 days ago

Nope, I don't have any of those yet. didn't seem to find them on marco, so maybe pinball life has them.

#2405 50 days ago

These are a slightly different style (from a junk yard), and used. But if you can’t find new or want these for free I’ll donate them to the cause and ship them for free.

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#2406 50 days ago

I think these are the style you need that Kerry sells.

https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-wiring-harness-standoff-bracket/

#2407 50 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

Nope, I don't have any of those yet. didn't seem to find them on marco, so maybe pinball life has them.

You might have to cut the zip ties on the harness you have started.

if its in the wrong location.

Can someone post a full pic of the TAF underside so a reference can be made.

And locations of the standoffs.

#2408 50 days ago

Here is a pic.

TAF_PF_Under (resized).JPG
#2409 50 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Here is a pic. [quoted image]

That is just PERFECT!

#2410 50 days ago

got some, thanks

Order details
Product Total
Wiring Harness Standoff Bracket × 10 $40.00
Subtotal: $40.00
Shipping: $12.19 via FedEx 2Day
Payment method: PayPal
Total: $52.19

#2411 50 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

got some, thanks
Order details
Product Total
Wiring Harness Standoff Bracket × 10 $40.00
Subtotal: $40.00
Shipping: $12.19 via FedEx 2Day
Payment method: PayPal
Total: $52.19

You will have to get the cable holders unless you already have some.
They are the same as the ones that route the cables in the lower cabinet.

#2412 50 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You will have to get the cable holders unless you already have some.
They are the same as the ones that route the cables in the lower cabinet.

yep, still have some left over . both big and little

#2413 50 days ago

I'd love to know what your shipping expense for all your parts at the end of this project. Keep up the good work, it's really coming along.

#2414 50 days ago

I think you can fund a small country with it, but don't take my word

#2415 49 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

I think you can fund a small country with it, but don't take my word

You're attitude is fantastic.

#2416 49 days ago
Quoted from Monk:

You're attitude is fantastic.

when you have no wife, no girlfriend, no mortgage and very few bills, you can afford to be a LITTLE cavelier about somethings. . although sometimes I'd be happy with the other things .

1 week later
#2417 40 days ago

been a bit quiet lately. my wire holders shipped. apparently mantis was on vacation .

wanted to get THOSE installed before I tried to tackle the first of the wire harnesses.

1 week later
#2418 32 days ago

Going to try and put on the cable holders today. THEN see if I can't tackle getting the light wires installed.

Is it easier to crimp the connections on than soldering them, or is soldering easier?

#2419 32 days ago

how does that placement look?

238272107_10159139441035211_6191239123915080999_n (resized).jpg
#2420 32 days ago

Solder all the connections to light sockets.

#2421 32 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

how does that placement look?[quoted image]

Looks good. Now they need the plastic rings on them.

#2422 31 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

how does that placement look?[quoted image]

Looking good!!

#2423 31 days ago

I had a feeling soldering was going to be the response .

So, looking at the pictures, since some of the lights seem different than the others, it looks like two green wires go on the prong holes on one side, two yellow go on the other?

#2424 31 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

I had a feeling soldering was going to be the response .
So, looking at the pictures, since some of the lights seem different than the others, it looks like two green wires go on the prong holes on one side, two yellow go on the other?

The GI wires are daisy chained in most cases.

Test with a battery for each section you complete.

#2425 31 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The GI wires are daisy chained in most cases.
Test with a battery for each section you complete.

that is what it looked like. the third prong seemed to go to the others in some cases.

#2427 31 days ago

some people use these solder lugs on lamps:

Couldn't find this picture. Then found it....

solder lugs marco (resized).jpg
1 week later
#2428 24 days ago

alright, trying not to let the steam get away from me, but this part to me just seems more daunting. moved the playfield closer so I can hook things up to test the lights once it gets done.

so, just to see if I have this right. Two go in the top and bottom on both sides, two green, two yellow. and the third is to chain another light?

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#2429 24 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

alright, trying not to let the steam get away from me, but this part to me just seems more daunting. moved the playfield closer so I can hook things up to test the lights once it gets done.
so, just to see if I have this right. Two go in the top and bottom on both sides, two green, two yellow. and the third is to chain another light?[quoted image][quoted image]

Sound right.

Test with a battery as you go from the end connector.

#2430 23 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

so, just to see if I have this right. Two go in the top and bottom on both sides, two green, two yellow. and the third is to chain another light?

Are the "two" and "third" you're talking about the three terminals on a 3-terminal lamp socket?

If so, the three terminals are there for convenience in attaching the diode, needed for the lamp matrix. It's usually wired like this:

Red/Stripe (row) wire comes into "bottom" terminal, the one that's not connected to either contact on the inside of the socket (check with a voltmeter to make sure you've got the right one). The striped side of the diode also attaches here.

The other (non-striped) side of the diode connects to one of the "side" lamp terminals (one of the ones connected to an inside contact).

The Yellow/Stripe (column) wire connects to the other "side" lamp terminal (the other one connected to an inside contact).

So the effective circuit at the bulb looks like:

Column = Yellow/Stripe ----- Bulb ---- Diode >| ---- Red/Stripe = Row

The chaining is usually on both of the wired terminals - you usually have two each of the red/stripe and yellow/stripe wires coming in, one going off to the next lamp in each direction in the daisy chain for the row or column, respectively. The exceptions are the first lamp in each row/column chain, which has just one red and/or yellow wire that connects back to the CPU board, and the last lamp in each row/column chain, which has just one red and/or yellow wire off to the second-to-last lamp in its chain.

So on the "bottom" terminal, you'll usually have three leads soldered - two red/stripe wires and one diode leg.

(I hope I understood the question correctly - sorry if I made up my own question and answered it instead!)

#2431 22 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Sound right.
Test with a battery as you go from the end connector.

I wasn't sure how to hook a battery up to it, so I just moved it closer for now.

One reason why I'm so confused on this is because the photo's I have and saved from before, all the wiring looks different. some look hooked up with yellow/green and others look like they are just chained with yellow.

#2432 22 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

I wasn't sure how to hook a battery up to it, so I just moved it closer for now.
One reason why I'm so confused on this is because the photo's I have and saved from before, all the wiring looks different. some look hooked up with yellow/green and others look like they are just chained with yellow.

Just take a 9V battery and connect one side of the GI to the positive and the other to the negative. Super easy way to test your socket work and the bulbs.

#2433 22 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Just take a 9V battery and connect one side of the GI to the positive and the other to the negative. Super easy way to test your socket work and the bulbs.

That works great for the GI, but I think he is working on the feature light matrix. That is better tested when plugged into the Board.

#2434 22 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

alright, trying not to let the steam get away from me, but this part to me just seems more daunting. moved the playfield closer so I can hook things up to test the lights once it gets done.
so, just to see if I have this right. Two go in the top and bottom on both sides, two green, two yellow. and the third is to chain another light?[quoted image][quoted image]

Looking at your wire harness from what I can tell is all the yellow wires are solid yellow. Is this the case? if so how do you know the wires are connected correctly in the end connector? The yellow wires are not daisy-chained for the matrix. Each goes to a specific column and has a specific stripe color, there are 8 columns and 8 rows. The red are the 8 rows.

#2435 22 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

That works great for the GI, but I think he is working on the feature light matrix. That is better tested when plugged into the Board.

Actually it works great too. Get some connectors and use them with alligator clips. I have swapped a playfield or two and not always having a machine on hand to test this works well.

#2436 22 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Actually it works great too. Get some connectors and use them with alligator clips. I have swapped a playfield or two and not always having a machine on hand to test this works well.

I have done this with my rebuilds to make sure that I am 1 : 1 on my flashers and lights, and to check GI string. 3AAs for 5V and a 9V for flashers. A nice careful time saver.

#2437 22 days ago
Quoted from mjr:

Are the "two" and "third" you're talking about the three terminals on a 3-terminal lamp socket?
If so, the three terminals are there for convenience in attaching the diode, needed for the lamp matrix. It's usually wired like this:
Red/Stripe (row) wire comes into "bottom" terminal, the one that's not connected to either contact on the inside of the socket (check with a voltmeter to make sure you've got the right one). The striped side of the diode also attaches here.
The other (non-striped) side of the diode connects to one of the "side" lamp terminals (one of the ones connected to an inside contact).
The Yellow/Stripe (column) wire connects to the other "side" lamp terminal (the other one connected to an inside contact).
So the effective circuit at the bulb looks like:
Column = Yellow/Stripe ----- Bulb ---- Diode >| ---- Red/Stripe = Row
The chaining is usually on both of the wired terminals - you usually have two each of the red/stripe and yellow/stripe wires coming in, one going off to the next lamp in each direction in the daisy chain for the row or column, respectively. The exceptions are the first lamp in each row/column chain, which has just one red and/or yellow wire that connects back to the CPU board, and the last lamp in each row/column chain, which has just one red and/or yellow wire off to the second-to-last lamp in its chain.
So on the "bottom" terminal, you'll usually have three leads soldered - two red/stripe wires and one diode leg.
(I hope I understood the question correctly - sorry if I made up my own question and answered it instead!)

I have a feeling that until I get the hang of it, the wiring is where I'm going to completely fall apart .

Maybe I should start with installing the switches first and save the wiring for last...

#2438 22 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

I have a feeling that until I get the hang of it, the wiring is where I'm going to completely fall apart .
Maybe I should start with installing the switches first and save the wiring for last...

Wiring is much easier if you break it down to one connector at a time.

Starting with the GI circuits is good, as its fairly straight forward from the pins on the driver board, to the individual lamps on the playfield.

Daisy chained groups makes sense after you get one circuit done.

Starting with a battery on the connector in the harness you can energize each circuit as you go then verify it works by plugging the connector on to the driver board and powering up the game.

Basically do things one at a time until you get confident.

The schematic tells you where everything goes.

#2439 22 days ago

heh, and then I looked at the switch listing in the manual. 88 switches, most with different serial numbers. that'll take a while to buy out too...

and this is why I think the playfield is going to be tougher ;o).

1 week later
#2440 10 days ago

Working on 100% completion while trying to save funds for switch buying. hoping to st art in a week or two..

241520684_10159179396765211_4026219190600088769_n (resized).jpg
#2441 5 days ago

I hope I'm not disparaging anyone with the slower progress. Because I know that's how I feel ;o)

I wonder, just how close am I to being able to play, if I really knew what I was doing and could speed things up?

With the cabinet completed, and the playfiled maybe 40% done...what's left after getting the lights wired and switches done?

#2442 5 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

I wonder, just how close am I to being able to play,

Close enough ... too start gathering parts for the Twilight Zone Scratch Build !

#2443 5 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

I hope I'm not disparaging anyone with the slower progress. Because I know that's how I feel ;o)
I wonder, just how close am I to being able to play, if I really knew what I was doing and could speed things up?
With the cabinet completed, and the playfiled maybe 40% done...what's left after getting the lights wired and switches done?

Mechs and magnets, pop bumpers and bookcase.

Then plastics and ramps.

Not much.

Its pretty fast. If you have all the parts its a couple days work.

Maybe less.

#2444 2 days ago

both rewarding and frustrating to know it's so close .

How much will all the switches set me back? looking at the list, seems like there could be at least 30 individual ones at least and maybe 40 total?

#2445 2 days ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

both rewarding and frustrating to know it's so close .
How much will all the switches set me back? looking at the list, seems like there could be at least 30 individual ones at least and maybe 40 total?

Depends on the switch. Leaf switches typically in $2-$10 range. Really the bodies are all the same but the blade/actuators are different sizes and/or with different bends

There are 2445 posts in this topic. You are on page 49 of 49.

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