(Topic ID: 257696)
Linked Games
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Topic Gallery
Leduc, AB
Houston, TX
Quoted from SunKing:Count me as another one of the early doubters. Congrats one proving us wrong so far. Keep going, the finish line is in sight!
it was easy to doubt.
While I have had experience working on jamma arcades before, I had never seen the inside of a pinball machine. so, it was ground up learning from the start. but, I had also never built my own pc before, and figured that out 12 years ago...now it's all I do. I had never built an R2 D2 before, but got him up and rolling just fine.....so, figured...how hard could it be? 
thankfully, so far, it's going along just fine! but it easily couldn't have!
Quoted from pinballinreno:Finish tbe cabinet first. Install the flipper switches, tilt bob, get the coin door plugged in. Make the cabinet 100% done before the playfield is started.
Tidy up all the cabinet wiring snug.
Get to know the tests and settings in the service menu.
Go thru all of them.
The manual has descriptions of what they do.
Theres lots of fun just playing with the game now that its ALIVE !
any links to the proper flipper switches and tilt bob?
I finally got the coin door plugged in and messing around with it now.
trying to figure it all out
My earnings are at $0.00
Quoted from Shredder565:My earnings are at $0.00
too bad it wont tell you your expenses!
Quoted from Shredder565:any links to the proper flipper switches and tilt bob?
I finally got the coin door plugged in and messing around with it now.
trying to figure it all out
My earnings are at $0.00
Are you doing regular switches or opto swtches?
How is the wiring setup in your cabinet harness for the flipper buttons?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Are you doing regular switches or opto swtches?
How is the wiring setup in your cabinet harness for the flipper buttons?
Flipper buttons are configured as the original wiring not tafg,so here is a photo how to wire your flipper switches and see photo with what you will need to order.
D76EBFCC-2544-40D7-A125-4924EB54F96D (resized).pngimage (resized).jpgQuoted from JIMAKOST:Flipper buttons are configured as the original wiring not tafg,so here is a photo how to wire your flipper switches and see photo with what you will need to order.[quoted image][quoted image]
Here is a photo of the cabinet tilt bob I use
0DE28B64-DB4E-47EC-A1B2-38A9D3D373DA (resized).pngLooks like a canoe, or a fisherman bobber .
those will have to wait a week or two as funds recover .
Quoted from Shredder565:Looks like a canoe, or a fisherman bobber .
those will have to wait a week or two as funds recover .
Yes true but it looks much better than the actual I have in my game.
image (resized).jpgI think we can let the secret out of the bag now. Dimitri was nice enough to take back my 30 year old harness and COMPLETELY reverse engineer it so it will be ALL NEW wiring. I am sure he will offer the old one up for sale soon .
So, except for the boards, I can now say that this machine will be 98% new parts so far .
Quoted from Shredder565:I think we can let the secret out of the bag now. Dimitri was nice enough to take back my 30 year old harness and COMPLETELY reverse engineer it so it will be ALL NEW wiring. I am sure he will offer the old one up for sale soon .
So, except for the boards, I can now say that this machine will be 98% new parts so far .
Will post some photos of the switch matrix wiring that will be complete on Wednesday and send your way so you can can start familiarize with the 1st stage ,after that will follow ,lamp matrix and solenoid wiring.
What a fun project
Dimitri
here's a question. Does anyone have a complete link/list to CORRECT book case parts?
I pretty much have the top top side done, but it's not the prettiest job you've ever seen.
If I can order all the parts at once it might be easier. I don't need the motor, base, or metal base again though .
I was cleaning up and looking at my poor dismal book case that's been sitting there for a while now. would be nice to finish it as I finish the cabinet .
Quoted from Shredder565:here's a question. Does anyone have a complete link/list to CORRECT book case parts?
I pretty much have the top top side done, but it's not the prettiest job you've ever seen.
If I can order all the parts at once it might be easier. I don't need the motor, base, or metal base again though .
See the 2 page PDF document below for a complete list of the Bookcase Assembly parts for TAF.
TAF Bookcase Parts
http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=03-8620
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-862X
Gord
yep, that's what was followed the first time, but searching for some parts are trickier than others!
Quoted from Shredder565:yep, that's what was followed the first time, but searching for some parts are trickier than others!
Action pinball is a great place for hard to find parts.
Often they have it when everyone else is out of stock.
Dont forget about planetarypinball.com often they are cheaper if they have the same part as marco or pinball life.
Quoted from Shredder565:current status of book case.
I noticed on your bookcase mounting plate looks like they did not come with the "Z" brackets that the microswitches get mounted to, not sure where to source those parts from you may have to fabricate something.
Update: they do make them in case you do not already have some. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10399
checked my parts, looks like I don't have either of those.
hmm..
first order of business, finish the cabinet 100%. second, start the book case
hoping to get back in to ordering parts next week. will focus on flipper switches. and the rest of the front of the cabinet first. THEN start to slowly go back toward the playfield.
once again, thank you to dimitri for all the wiring. my new wiring harness goes out soon .
1 week later
been working on a side project. replacing arcade 1up with an Game Room Solutions 32" Cabinet. just about done. just needs side art and coin door.
control panel is a temp.
trying to get back into finishing the cabinet.
Subtotal $62.84
Shipping $6.99
Taxes $0.00
Total $69.83
Tilt mechanism Assembly 1 $29.99 $29.99
Switch - flipper dual contact cabinet - lighter duty 3 $10.95 $32.85
202898958_10159033278655211_8166476501069740013_n (resized).jpg 1 week later
Got the switches installed, now need to figure out the tilt bobber.
what else is left for the cabinet?
Quoted from Shredder565:Got the switches installed, now need to figure out the tilt bobber.
what else is left for the cabinet?
Plug in the switch harness? Test switches and tilt bob in switch test.
Hard to say without a picture.
Quoted from Shredder565:current layout as of 7/7[quoted image][quoted image]
Tie up the cabling with the nylon loops?
Could be me but something looks off with the start button switch stack - looks really bent back like the stack isn’t far enough off the cab?
If you are going true to original, every wms/Bally game Ive seen of that era has The service outlet and fuse box mounted on the floor of the game. I don’t *think taf was different. However I’m not sure it makes any difference.
Coming along..
Quoted from pinballinreno:Tie up the cabling with the nylon loops?
is that really all that needs to be done with the cabinet? can't believe it's all done.
OK, so now what should I tackle with the playfield..?
Quoted from Mbecker:Could be me but something looks off with the start button switch stack - looks really bent back like the stack isn’t far enough off the cab?
If you are going true to original, every wms/Bally game Ive seen of that era has The service outlet and fuse box mounted on the floor of the game. I don’t *think taf was different. However I’m not sure it makes any difference.
Coming along..
I feel like part of thestart button is missing too... I feel like I had to take something off to get it in and I don't see what it was...
Quoted from Mbecker:Could be me but something looks off with the start button switch stack - looks really bent back like the stack isn’t far enough off the cab?
If you are going true to original, every wms/Bally game Ive seen of that era has The service outlet and fuse box mounted on the floor of the game. I don’t *think taf was different. However I’m not sure it makes any difference.
Coming along..
Power box goes on the wall for TAF and WPC games.
Quoted from Shredder565:I feel like part of thestart button is missing too... I feel like I had to take something off to get it in and I don't see what it was...
Are you missing the PAL nuts on the flipper buttons? I cant quite see from the pictures.
Lamp and switch assembly appears to be missing on the start button.
Also a closer picture of the flipper buttons and start button installations would be helpful.
Quoted from Shredder565:I feel like part of thestart button is missing too... I feel like I had to take something off to get it in and I don't see what it was...
The start button has the button itself with labeled disc and spring, the treaded body, the snap on switch and lamp assembly and the lock nut.
You have to remove the snap on switch assembly and lock nut to install a new switch.
Basically, insert treaded body into the hole in the cabinet, then tighten lock nut from the inside. Then attach the switch assembly to the threaded body.
The connectors face downwards.
The new switches twist and lock for removal, the old ones just snap on.
They come with regular incansescent bulbs, i put 2smd frosted sunlight in them.
well, the start button isn't pushed in yet, but I just tested it and it works .
Now, how come when I plug in the coin door, I get 'slam tilt switch closed?' i'd love to plug in a quarter, hit start, and just hear the music
Quoted from Shredder565:it's been so long since I looked at my start switch, i couldn't remember what this piece went too..now I know again ;o)
sigh.[quoted image]
Looks like a twist lock style.
Change the bulb for an led. Test it with a battety to see it work.
Snap it in.
You will likely unsnap it to plug on the wires later.
Quoted from Shredder565:well, the start button isn't pushed in yet, but I just tested it and it works .
Now, how come when I plug in the coin door, I get 'slam tilt switch closed?' i'd love to plug in a quarter, hit start, and just hear the music
Install the tilt bob and wire it up.
Check the door slam switch and tilt bob in switch test if you want
Until everything in the cabinet is wired up i would ignore errors on the screen.
When everything in the cabinet is done, you should get pinball missing on the screen when you try to start a game with no playfield installed.
But no other caninet errors.
I can't seem to find a proper post with the tilt bob setup. but then, my google skills both suck and blow . at least when I press the start button, it responds like it should so that's one good step
Quoted from Shredder565:I can't seem to find a proper post with the tilt bob setup. but then, my google skills both suck and blow . at least when I press the start button, it responds like it should so that's one good step
Its a simple switch with only 2 wires from the harness.
One for the top brass fitting and one for the ring fitting.
The hook and bob makes the switch connection.
It doesnt matter which wire goes top or bottom.
Find the 2 leftover wires in the harness and use their length to mount the tilt assembly.
Plug them on first. Then mount to the wall.
Fully assemble the hook and bob with the bob about 1/4" through the ring.
Put the top screw in first.
Rotate the mech to center the bob.
Then put the bottom screw in when the bob is centered in the ring.
Further adjustments will be made after the game is pitched for game play.
There are pictures in this thread as a guide.
Quoted from Walamab:Here's a pic to help with the plumb bob...hopefully
[quoted image]
that it did. how does this look?
211337812_10159058877005211_2426092136129286237_n (resized).jpgPromoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
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