Hanover, NJ
hmm, I apparently have the wires to do some of that, b ut not all of that yet. hopefully in a week or so, I will 
. I would think I'd need the Line Filter too for initial power on, yes?
(Topic ID: 257696)
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Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
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Quoted from Shredder565:self etching paint job in progress. i suck at spray painting so we will see how it turns out.
lol, me too.
I just sand it out and try again...
Carlisle, ON
Quoted from Shredder565:hmm, I apparently have the wires to do some of that, b ut not all of that yet. hopefully in a week or so, I will . I would think I'd need the Line Filter too for initial power on, yes?
Yes.
Quoted from Shredder565:well, after a few tries....it's not pretty but it will work for now.[quoted image]
You can do much better than that! It just takes a little practice.
Sand it off and do it again, or wash it with lacquer thinner till its clean
Sand it smooth with 320 grit.
Get a long 3" bolt and a nut pushed thru one of the holes to use as a handle.
Forunately, painting metal is very forgiving. You can wash it off infinitely until you develop the skill.
Wear a nitrile glove on the hand you are holding the part.
Re-primer it, 2 light coats 3 mins apart can 12" away from the part, then one medium, can a little closer. It should look smooth, if not, sand/wash and do it again.
Once it looks smooth and mostly perfect. Re-paint when dry after a couple hours.
2 dust coats of paint 3 mins apart then one meduim coat (can slightly closer) until the surface wets up.
Hang the part on the bolt.
Let it dry over night.
If it looks good your ok, if its a little dry looking scuff it lightly with 400 grit, apply another medium coat of paint.
I hate painting, but with patience and perseverance one can get professional results.
I've tried EVERY method of painting suggested for me during the last 7 years, and I really can't do much better . I just SUCK at spray paint. at this point, I am happy with half good, and half bad. until I can find someone better at it to make it look nicer ;o)..
So, is the taller lid supposed to be on the front of the box, or the back? I think I might have it reversed.
also, the panels seem a bit of a tight fit on the glass. really wishing the originals didn't get thrown out heh. I don't want to break another glass trying to force them on.
179254692_10158903946160211_502147293510778708_n (resized).jpg179942596_10158903946140211_6073817266365926984_n (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:also, the panels seem a bit of a tight fit on the glass. really wishing the originals didn't get thrown out heh. I don't want to break another glass trying to force them on.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Is that glass too thick?
i wasn't sure it came in different sizes. the original pieces fit on it just fine. but these newer ones not so much .
Quoted from Shredder565:i wasn't sure it came in different sizes. the original pieces fit on it just fine. but these newer ones not so much .
Quoted from Shredder565:I've tried EVERY method of painting suggested for me during the last 7 years, and I really can't do much better . I just SUCK at spray paint. at this point, I am happy with half good, and half bad. until I can find someone better at it to make it look nicer ;o)..
So, is the taller lid supposed to be on the front of the box, or the back? I think I might have it reversed.
also, the panels seem a bit of a tight fit on the glass. really wishing the originals didn't get thrown out heh. I don't want to break another glass trying to force them on.
[quoted image][quoted image]
The wider edge goes in the rear.
It holds the translite.
Quoted from JimWilks:Translight glass should be 0.125" thick,
Yes, it should be 1/8" glass.
Measure it.
Lay the glass on a table with a towel under it.
Do not place it on end and hammer down on it.
Atrach the trim.
Tap it on horizontally with a plastic hammer ftom home depot or harbor freight:
https://www.amazon.com/Aketek-Rubber-Hammer-Jewelers-Mallet/dp/B000RB5VLA/ref=asc_df_B000RB5VLA/
It will move a little, but let it drift.
You dont want a backstop unless its wooden.
we found out from the office people's that the reason the last glass broke is because I used a hammer, despite tapping GENTLY on it.
Apparently the strength didn't matter. lesson learned .
Well, it all fits now. the glass apparently IS 1/8's so that is good. Not sure how stable it is though. a slight tilt forward and the back glass tips downward from the top. good enough for a fast picture, but wouldn't trust it in play
179596535_10158904139765211_9187023998560452184_n (resized).jpg
So, apart from stability issues, one part of the machine 100% done .
minus the connectors for the lamps. will figure that out next.
Quoted from Shredder565:we found out from the office people's that the reason the last glass broke is because I used a hammer, despite tapping GENTLY on it.
Apparently the strength didn't matter. lesson learned .
Well, it all fits now. the glass apparently IS 1/8's so that is good. Not sure how stable it is though. a slight tilt forward and the back glass tips downward from the top. good enough for a fast picture, but wouldn't trust it in play
[quoted image]
So, apart from stability issues, one part of the machine 100% done .
minus the connectors for the lamps. will figure that out next.
"Plastic" hammer.
Its what i use, from home depot.
The yellow side.
Tempered glass is incredibly strong.
But if you "shock" it, even slightly, it turns to dust.
Plastic hammers reduce or eliminate the shock.
So, does anyone have any pictures of the connectors for the light board and topper lights? I can try and get those done today and maybe get this thing back on the machine later .
Spent an hour googling and wasn't sure I was looking at the right stuff .
OK, so I am obviously missing something here. This is how my slower brain works.. Looking at it closely, and not having done it in so long, I FORGOT about the little slit the glass goes into on the top. BUT...I can't seem to get it to fit with or without the top plastic piece on. I must be missing something. I even installed the old plastic H Piece back on to see if that worked and nothing.
179508344_10158905683465211_5107485513132407495_n (resized).jpgyes, it is the translight lock tab at the top that the glass slides into. for whatever reason, I can't get it past the upper 'lid' area in the front and into the slot.
Is the translite already in the bottom channel? You have to put the top in the channel first, then put it in the bottom. You can over lift into that top channel to clear the bottom lip, but it does not work the other way. It's hard to tell from your pic what is going on for sure.
Quoted from Shredder565:hmm, weird that that is the case... how it will go in one way but not the other....
Take a closer look at the geometry and you'll see that it's not weird at all - it's exactly how it's designed. The secret is that the slot at the top has a deep recess that lets you lift the glass up and over the lip of the H-channel at the bottom, then lower it into the H-channel. If you try do it the other way, the H-channel doesn't have any such play, so you can't lower the glass any further to clear the wedge-shaped wood at the top. It's important that the recess is at the top because gravity holds the glass in place when you're not lifting it into the recess. This is also how the lock works - the tab on the lock rotates into position just above the top of the glass when seated properly, preventing it from lifting into the top recess, which in turn prevents you from lifting it over the lip of the H-channel at the bottom.
Quoted from Shredder565:So, does anyone have any pictures of the connectors for the light board and topper lights?
You can deduce the wiring from the manual.
01_flasher_power.jpg
02_flasher_drive.jpg
03_flasher_wiring.jpg
But, of course, a picture/image helps tremendously.
Quoted from Mbecker:Something looks caddywompus with the speaker panel plastic - is that loose or something? It looks tilted down on the left vs the right side
that it is!
two reasons
1- I wasn't sure if that was the cause and maybe it wasn't sitting right on the bottom U.
2- Not sure if hot glue is the right way to attach it, so I cleaned it up a little.
Quoted from DumbAss:You can deduce the wiring from the manual.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
But, of course, a picture/image helps tremendously.
[quoted image]
Am I seeing it correctly? Why do you need 6 rows or so of empty spaces if only one wire seems to be going to each connector?
Quoted from Shredder565:that it is!
two reasons
1- I wasn't sure if that was the cause and maybe it wasn't sitting right on the bottom U.
2- Not sure if hot glue is the right way to attach it, so I cleaned it up a little.
No hot glue, remove it if its been applied.
Quoted from Shredder565:Am I seeing it correctly? Why do you need 6 rows or so of empty spaces if only one wire seems to be going to each connector?
The number of pins on the housing should match the number of pins on the header. If not it will be really hard to figure out which housing goes to which connector. Keying of the pins prevents incorrect insertion of a housing to a header.
the_cloud_board_connections.jpgQuoted from Shredder565:Am I seeing it correctly? Why do you need 6 rows or so of empty spaces if only one wire seems to be going to each connector?
Connectors are cheap, install the correct ones based on the number of pins on the circuit board.
Just get the right wires onto the correct pins.
Quoted from DumbAss:The number of pins on the housing should match the number of pins on the header. If not it will be really hard to figure out which housing goes to which connector. Keying of the pins prevents incorrect insertion of a housing to a header.
[quoted image]
that makes sense. I guess even being careful there can always be the chance you'd mess up wrong any other way.
I'll see if I can get at least one started tomorrow..
Quoted from DumbAss:The number of pins on the housing should match the number of pins on the header. If not it will be really hard to figure out which housing goes to which connector. Keying of the pins prevents incorrect insertion of a housing to a header.
[quoted image]
Yes, exactly this. Make sure you put the key plugs in exactly the right spot in each connector.
Hey S565
You might want to check the harnesses that Dimitri built for you. The cloud lighting wiring may have been included.
Wally
not a bad idea. I still wanted to see if I could get half of one going myself at least . won't hook it up, just get the connectors set .
in the meantime, getting to know my wires I DO have. one wire, the all white one, wasn't labled. I could take a guess it goes in the upper left . two others, I was not sure about. The two connected to J210 and J114.
I have a feeling even if labled the wiring will be the most confusing part of this . so bear with me! pretty sure the rest are ok!
180127878_10158907716840211_4274198442168564372_n (resized).jpg
Hey Neil see these photos are from the manual of a TZ and are the same connections,to identify properly the right connectors see the molex count the pins and see on the manual where they go ,all molex are keyed .
252E43B1-C41A-4650-B348-1B856C42E6B1 (resized).png50210547-CF20-4C27-B472-F004386EC782 (resized).png913C5DC9-7E62-41F3-8675-128FA0B2437A (resized).png93AFA3BD-5A55-4563-B589-733F5BC56E77 (resized).pngB99116C9-9803-4BC7-976F-021B7C50AFD3 (resized).pngBCA8427B-DAC2-486E-A629-7A9D3B29DEDE (resized).pngQuoted from Shredder565:take 2!
[quoted image]
You are missing the wire loom keepers to get the wires mounted correctly.
Hopefully you have a ribbon cable set also.
Quoted from pinballinreno:You are missing the wire loom keepers to get the wires mounted correctly.
All part of the final 'make everything neat' step . first step is to get things properly organized and powered on. it won't be staying like this for a while, obviously, at least until I finally get the playfield done.
But, I will order some for the future .
This is where it will get confusing for me. BUT, thankfully I have an office full of electricians to help me keep things organized.
I can most likely read all that and figure it out myself, but chances are pretty good I will mess up with one connector somewhere, so it always helps to have a few extra eyes used to reading schematics around ;o)..
I will save those pages and print them out to hang right next to the topper (don't worry, not taped to the topper )for reference..
Quoted from Shredder565:This is where it will get confusing for me. BUT, thankfully I have an office full of electricians to help me keep things organized.
I can most likely read all that and figure it out myself, but chances are pretty good I will mess up with one connector somewhere, so it always helps to have a few extra eyes used to reading schematics around ;o)..
I will save those pages and print them out to hang right next to the topper (don't worry, not taped to the topper )for reference..
Don’t worry I’m here to help you ,and all of us here will guide you to the correct direction.
Before powering up we will confirm everything together!!
Quoted from Shredder565:BUT, thankfully I have an office full of electricians to help me
I believe at one time you said you were a local 3 IBEW shop. If so keep those guys away from that thing because all the electricians I know have no idea about electronics.
Quoted from Shredder565:lets see how this goes
baby's first connector kit[quoted image]
Can you tell me where you ordered the Key pin plugs from and the part number. I have ordered some but they are never the right size.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Can you tell me where you ordered the Key pin plugs from and the part number. I have ordered some but they are never the right size.
For Trifurcon:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=81
A cut off toothpick works very well on IDC connectors
Once again, thank you to EVERYONE who has helped me get this far. as someone who grew up at the Jersey Shore, and played a TAF at Barnacle Bills and the Seaside Heights Boardwalk every year for at least a decade...it'll be amazing to have it in my collection for many years to come.
The last local machine I spotted got destroyed either by sandy, or the boardwalk fire, I forget which, and havn't seen one in person since heh.
).Quoted from Shredder565:Wire Order 2 safe and sound . Mystery order coming up ).[quoted image]
i have an idea what it is buit i dont want to spoil it lol
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