Hanover, NJ
Quoted from SunKing:I gotta hand it to ya - I never thought you’d get this far. Looks awesome!
neither did I 
. and we still haven't powered it on yet. can always catch fire!
(Topic ID: 257696)
Linked Games
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
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so, what I can tell is that this piece goes like this. that top tab gets bent down for some reason, and the right side tab gets bent toward the boards so it folds across. The other piece with the two holes goes on the bottom. not sure on the rest.
173733601_10158873506305211_1922832012714637732_n (resized).jpg
Budapest
Quoted from Shredder565:so, what I can tell is that this piece goes like this. that top tab gets bent down for some reason, and the right side tab gets bent toward the boards so it folds across. The other piece with the two holes goes on the bottom. not sure on the rest.[quoted image]
Screenshot_20210414-233838_Gallery.jpgthat should help . I'm assuming that placement isn't as fine tuned on the right as it is on the left and can be off a little.
get this done tomorrow. maybe the lights next week when more of my 22 gauge wire comes in. Then I can use some 3/8 screws to secure the topper, and put the back box back on, and focus on the bottom half of the cabinet.
IT's pretty odd how that tiny little board just won't fit in the place on the right side of the cpu panel. looks like enough room.
Quoted from Shredder565:so, what I can tell is that this piece goes like this. that top tab gets bent down for some reason, and the right side tab gets bent toward the boards so it folds across. The other piece with the two holes goes on the bottom. not sure on the rest.[quoted image]
Ill get a dimension off of my game for you tomorrow
Quoted from Shredder565:placement isn't as fine tuned on the right as it is on the left
You would be surprised...lol.
I attached the pieces to the light board, and then reach up under it, while closed, found a location for the inner latch blindly with a piece of tape, opened the door and ran a screw in. All one handed lol.
Took 2 tries but it fits perfectly.
Hey it works for me....
Quoted from wallybgood:Hey S565
Pics of brkt bends.
Wally
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wally, you're a GOD!!!!!
Why are those bulbs setting so high?
There are supposed to be three 1/2" or 9/16" holes drilled in the top of the backbox for the lamp sockets, centered for each section of the cloud topper.
The lamp sockets are mounted from inside the head and the tops of the sockets ending up flush with the surface.
The latch support looks good.
Quoted from Shredder565:one done . and eventually this is what the topper will look like when my extra wire comes in to wire it. maybe not pretty but it works for me [quoted image][quoted image]
Lower clamp: hex wood screw, no need to drill the lamp board. You can't undone it, makes sense to rotate the screw (heads are front side)
my google skills suck and I couldn't find any pictures of the topper lights. I took a guess, and as you can see, I see it was a wrong guess. I guess I should have had a clue when it was mentioned earlier that the lights needed to broadcast upward and sideways. but I wasn't sure.
I'll reposition 'em below later when I wire 'em, and yeah, the three holes are thankfully in place
Quoted from Davi:Lower clamp: hex wood screw, no need to drill the lamp board. You can't undone it, makes sense to rotate the screw (heads are front side)
I thought they where all supposed to be similar, but looking again at the upper pictures, yeah, only the top latch is like this. not the bottom one. I will move it down just a little more and put in the shorter 3/8 screws.
somehow seems as sad as Mr.Bean giving himself birthday cards ;o)..
in other news....maybe something to upgrade my arcade one up from WAY in the future .
https://customfoldingwagons.com/collections/stand-up-arcades/products/4-player-stand-up-full-size-classic-video-game-arcade-3500-games?variant=35501035618461
Quoted from Shredder565:my google skills suck and I couldn't find any pictures of the topper lights. I took a guess, and as you can see, I see it was a wrong guess. I guess I should have had a clue when it was mentioned earlier that the lights needed to broadcast upward and sideways. but I wasn't sure.
I'll reposition 'em below later when I wire 'em, and yeah, the three holes are thankfully in place
If you haven’t already at this point you should create a desktop folder, and go thru HEPs Addams pics and other TAF restore threads on Pinside and download all the pictures into that desktop folder. Having that handy to reference can answer a lot of questions as you go along. Esp once you’re back to the playfield, and for the cabinet.
thanks to mr.wally, quick temporary placement as I figure out how it's supposed to all latch together and work
I will rotate the top screws later
174064652_10158875389055211_7046195802358883525_n (resized).jpg174273860_10158875389015211_2279350346957611617_n (resized).jpg174502305_10158875388980211_8513813466614074101_n (resized).jpg
Quoted from Mbecker:If you haven’t already at this point you should create a desktop folder, and go thru HEPs Addams pics and other TAF restore threads on Pinside and download all the pictures into that desktop folder. Having that handy to reference can answer a lot of questions as you go along. Esp once you’re back to the playfield, and for the cabinet.
I did for the playfield, and deleted stuff as I went along so it wouldn't get confusing. I spent an hour browsing hep photos and other threads and couldn't find one of the topper lights heh.
Quoted from Shredder565:is that better? Old lamp position vrs new....[quoted image][quoted image]
Much better!
The bolts you used for the latch look long. They should only protrude past the nut by a thread or 2.
Dremel them off with a cut-of wheel or use shorter screws.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Much better!
The bolts you used for the latch look long. They should only protrude past the nut by a thread or 2.
Dremel them off with a cut-of wheel or use shorter screws.
makes sense. i think i saw some of my family's games with too liong screws, but i may be seeing things 
Quoted from Pinball_Hawk:makes sense. i think i saw some of my family's games with too liong screws, but i may be seeing things
Long bolts, hanging out, catch on things and can be very annoying. I like a clean look and build.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Long bolts, hanging out, catch on things and can be very annoying. I like a clean look and build.
when your trying to service the cpu board, from experience with other family members the panel gets in the way. considering doing maybe a flush/wood embedded nut when i build. its fun reading this build to prepare for mine.
Quoted from Pinball_Hawk:when your trying to service the cpu board, from experience with other family members the panel gets in the way. considering doing maybe a flush/wood embedded nut when i build. its fun reading this build to prepare for mine.
Yes T-nuts are lovely, but not necessary in most cases.
However, for stripped and blown out wood screw holes on a playfield, t-nuts are a godsend.
Quoted from Shredder565:So, how does that look? I see how the top one works.. but not sure about the bottom one [quoted image][quoted image]
looks good. bottom one is kindof just a plate to just be there
Quoted from Shredder565:moved a little higher[quoted image]
The bottom piece is the guide and support. The hinge is pretty sloppy by design. The lower guide and support helps to keep the door centered.
The top is the latch to keep the door from opening and rubbing on the translite and marring it.
Properly installed on a new cabinet, neither piece should rub much or at all, and should operate smoothly.
Quoted from Shredder565:with the latches in place.. just missing a translite, and the wire for the topper lights and the back box will be done. hopefully all next week arriving. is that all that is left to power it on minus the extra wire order?[quoted image]
Looks pretty good!
Quoted from Shredder565:with the latches in place.. just missing a translite, and the wire for the topper lights and the back box will be done. hopefully all next week arriving. is that all that is left to power it on minus the extra wire order?[quoted image]
Good progress.
Need to add a U channel to the bottom.
Quoted from Davi:Good progress.
Need to add a U channel to the bottom.
good catch!
In some of the older posts it looks like he has a U channel.
Post 2020 shows it holding the speaker panel together.
It just needs to be mounted.
Its best to setup the U channel location with the translite installed into the H channel to get it flat and square.
I cant tell but maybe it needs the H channel on top?
Carlisle, ON
Quoted from Shredder565:with the latches in place.. just missing a translite, and the wire for the topper lights and the back box will be done. hopefully all next week arriving. is that all that is left to power it on minus the extra wire order?
To power it up, you need all of the lower cabinet wiring done -- Power cord inlet, transformer, power switch box, etc. Are these ready?
Quoted from Shredder565:with the latches in place.. just missing a translite, and the wire for the topper lights and the back box will be done. hopefully all next week arriving. is that all that is left to power it on minus the extra wire order?[quoted image]
Are the left and right metal upper brackets installed on the speaker panel?
They keep the panel from falling forward from the top.
The U channel locks in the bottom. The H channel holds the translite.
These brackets and H and U channels keep the translite from falling out.
Quoted from JimWilks:To power it up, you need all of the lower cabinet wiring done -- Power cord inlet, transformer, power switch box, etc. Are these ready?
transformer, yes. not the other two. I think wally was working on the power switch boxes, but not sure if they where for sale, or any details on those. just one tantalizing FB post 
Quoted from pinballinreno:The U channel locks in the bottom. The H channel holds the translite.
These brackets and H and U channels keep the translite from falling out.
these where the plastic peices used to hold the translite in, yes?
are these them?
175064005_10158875926715211_6822892187730980554_n (resized).jpgQuoted from Davi:Shredder565
I have the stl file for the speaker panel upper brackets. Let me know if you need it.[quoted image]
thankfully , these are included!
I too have enjoyed following this. I'm looking forward to the end when it all gets totaled up to see where the project cost lands. What would really be cool is to get a vendor order list, so we could go out and do the same thing!
Keep up the good work!
Quoted from Shredder565:these where the plastic peices used to hold the translite in, yes?
are these them?
[quoted image]
That looks like a plastic lift trim and a plastic H channel for the top of the speaker panel.
Do you have the metal U channel that mounts below the speaker panel?
The speaker panel slips into it after its mounted to the floor of the backbox.
I have mine set back about 1/8" from the front edge. Check for vertical straightness before screwing it down.
https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-u-channel/
You might already have this in stainless. Earlier posts seem to show it?
So, if i'm understanding the part terminology right, then yeah, the speaker panel DOES fit into a piece on the bottom that's silver. I can't recall if it's metal at the moment or plastic that looks metal, but will check.
Quoted from Shredder565:transformer, yes. not the other two. I think wally was working on the power switch boxes, but not sure if they where for sale, or any details on those. just one tantalizing FB post
Hey S565
Sorry, I don't have any for sale. It is a pretty easy assy to build and all the parts should be readily available. If you don't want to build one, maybe place a wanted ad on Pinside. Someone may have an extra. In addition, they show up on Ebay from time to time. You might also want to check with Pinsider Arikussun. He has many used parts. Also you might want to contact one of the guys like Chris at HEP, Bryan Kelly, or Chris Hibler. They may have the time and parts to build one for you. Rest assured it would be a first class product from one of them.
Wally
Quoted from Shredder565:So, if i'm understanding the part terminology right, then yeah, the speaker panel DOES fit into a piece on the bottom that's silver. I can't recall if it's metal at the moment or plastic that looks metal, but will check.
Yes, thats the U channel.
If its shiny then its stainless steel, you dont have to paint it.
This might help to get started, trade out any part numbers that are non Addams Family.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-parts-for-entire-wpc-power-box-whitewater
and:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/iso-wpc-line-filter-assembly
and:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15707-120V
Post a wanted ad in the marketplace.
Quoted from Shredder565:well, I payed closer attention to it, and it ain't shiny, so my guess is plastic
the speaker panel U channel should be metal, (black painted steel on most games)
if a magnet sticks to it, its steel.
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Auckland, NZ
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