(Topic ID: 257696)

Addams Family - Scratch Build?

By Shredder565

4 years ago


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“This project is”

  • Ambitious 117 votes
    42%
  • insane 135 votes
    48%
  • will be undone by a official remake in a few months..:) 27 votes
    10%

(279 votes)

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There are 5,393 posts in this topic. You are on page 39 of 108.
#1901 2 years ago

OK, So while I wait on those, the light board latches on the left. someone posted measurements earlier, but I was a little confused on how to read them. exactly high up from the inside of the bottom should the bottom one be? I'm pretty sure the top one is ok.

#1902 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

No! regular playfield screws will punch thru and ruin the finish outside.
You have to use the gold 3/8" playfield screws like for the light sockets.

ok, i didnt know, was just trying to help.

#1903 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Hawk:

ok, i didnt know, was just trying to help.

We learn as we go...

#1904 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

We learn as we go...

indeed. Pinball Decals is downsizing their range of products so yeah. i snagged a brass shooter rod assembly.

#1905 2 years ago

more ancient hardware

167215755_10158839585915211_1160743131120085301_n (1) (resized).jpg167215755_10158839585915211_1160743131120085301_n (1) (resized).jpg
#1906 2 years ago

cable tv dvr box, grabbing that hard drive?

#1907 2 years ago

Old El Tivo. Wanted to make sure it was properly erased before being thrown out .

OCD on data stealing .

this will NOT look as neat as the picture, but it should work hopefully..

164507984_10158839799830211_4617468831670461292_n (resized).jpg164507984_10158839799830211_4617468831670461292_n (resized).jpg
#1908 2 years ago

final cpu puzzle piece

164658662_10158839835720211_4730878842622079635_n (resized).jpg164658662_10158839835720211_4730878842622079635_n (resized).jpg
#1909 2 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

final cpu puzzle piece
[quoted image]

Nicely done!

An expensive part of the project finally done.

Its way easier to mount the metal plate with the boards un-mounted.

#1910 2 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

final cpu puzzle piece
[quoted image]

does the dmdlux have built in high power for good ol orange dmds/plasma fed dmds?

#1911 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Nicely done!
An expensive part of the project finally done.
Its way easier to mount the metal plate with the boards un-mounted.

very true, but I figured it might be harder to keep the boards steady trying to re-mount them in the cabinet. don't want them getting scratched or dented or have them fall off :/.

#1912 2 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

very true, but I figured it might be harder to keep the boards steady trying to re-mount them in the cabinet. don't want them getting scratched or dented or have them fall off :/.

You loosen the screws quite a bit (3/16") and the keyhole cutouts in the boards let you hang them on the screws. Then you tighten the screws.

Its really nice. It lets you do maintenance without completely removing the screws.

#1913 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Hawk:

does the dmdlux have built in high power for good ol orange dmds/plasma fed dmds?

Yes, its designed as a complete replacement.

https://www.pinsound.org/dmdlux/

#1914 2 years ago

is it possible to get a controller that is built for colordmd support out of the box? im not gonna install a plasma dmd

#1915 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Hawk:

is it possible to get a controller that is built for colordmd support out of the box? im not gonna install a plasma dmd

Yes, this board does it.

Read the specs here:

https://www.pinsound.org/dmdlux/

#1916 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yes, this board does it.
Read the specs here:
https://www.pinsound.org/dmdlux/

so it has the connection to power the colourdmd? if so then i can just make my own cable to run to the dmd

#1917 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

ng them on the screws. Then you tighten the screws.

aha, so that is what the bigger holes where for.

I thought that was for perhaps a larger more sturdier screw set. shows what I know . will keep that in mind

slowly but surely..I probably should reverse those lights on the right so it keeps the track going neat.

166798885_10158840173135211_3000359865221755421_n (resized).jpg166798885_10158840173135211_3000359865221755421_n (resized).jpg

#1918 2 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

I probably should reverse those lights on the right so it keeps the track going neat.

You can, but it wont matter, The bulbs are not polarized.

The insulated wire can cross as needed.

When done, insert bulbs and test your separate circuits with a 9v battery.

If all the bulbs light, follow the schematic and make a connector for the driver board.

Give yourself plenty of wire as the 2 circuits exit the light board. Its like 16" to 18" from the light board to the connectors on the driver board. J-121 and J-122 I think without looking...

If you mount the metal plate you can mount the board and get an accurate dimension.

#1919 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Give yourself plenty of wire as the 2 circuits exit the light board. Its like 16" to 18" from the light board to the connectors on the driver board. J-121 and J-122 I think without looking...

Thinking about connecting this to the power driver board -- Do you have the housings, crimp pins and appropriate tool to connect to power driver board?

#1920 2 years ago
Quoted from JimWilks:

Thinking about connecting this to the power driver board -- Do you have the housings, crimp pins and appropriate tool to connect to power driver board?

Good question!

#1921 2 years ago

apart from solidering, while waiting for my screws to arrive, done. unfortunately, I do not even know what connector I need for these. or which end it gets connected too....

167442228_10158841972045211_7653054421621087442_n (resized).jpg167442228_10158841972045211_7653054421621087442_n (resized).jpg
#1922 2 years ago

Success! We have All three green and lit!

picture coming as soon as Ican .

#1923 2 years ago
166990369_10158842090145211_4984497704387499535_n (resized).jpg166990369_10158842090145211_4984497704387499535_n (resized).jpg167607768_10158842088445211_8702156882136967388_n (resized).jpg167607768_10158842088445211_8702156882136967388_n (resized).jpg
#1924 2 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

apart from solidering, while waiting for my screws to arrive, done. unfortunately, I do not even know what connector I need for these. or which end it gets connected too....[quoted image]

Ed at GPE is there to save you!

You will be ordering all if your harness connectors from him if needed.

Also molex connectors as needed to modularize the game for easy maintenance.

Does your harness have all the connectors on it?

If not:

Count the pins on the circuit boards and order accordingly.

Get a few spare 24 pin housings.
They can be cut to length if you need.

These are the regular connectors, .156 size, get the keying plugs and trifurcon pins:

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=81

These are the CPU board connectors, .100 size, also get keying plugs and crimping pins:

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=68

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=73

This is the crimping tool i use, it works for every connection on the game:

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Professional-Compression-Ratcheting-Wire-electrode/dp/B00OMM4YUY/ref=sxin_17_ac_m_mf_rm

#1925 2 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

[quoted image][quoted image]

Its alive! Lol.

You will have to order some #455 bayonet base blinking bulbs for the bare wire sockets.

Then you can watch them blink.

#1926 2 years ago

how does this look? as I recall 4 9/16th from the top and 1 and 9/16's both left and right.

I had to judge from pictures. want to make sure before I put in all the screws.

166668820_10158842195825211_6352201177644880710_n (resized).jpg166668820_10158842195825211_6352201177644880710_n (resized).jpg
#1927 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its alive! Lol.
You will have to order some #455 bayonet base blinking bulbs for the bare wire sockets.
Then you can watch them blink.

yes, I thought I saved the labels on the bulbs, but I don't think I had any blinking ones. I will add this to the order for next week .

If the above checks out, the next step is :
'
Get the light board insert installed and aligned.>>>

Then>>
mount the circuit boards.>>>

And FINALLY.......The Big test moment arrives...>>
Get the cabinet wiring done and installed.

Check all the voltages and grounds.

Dont plug anything into any boards until you are sure of the wiring and voltages and grounds.
>>>>>

#1928 2 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

how does this look? as I recall 4 9/16th from the top and 1 and 9/16's both left and right.
I had to judge from pictures. want to make sure before I put in all the screws.
[quoted image]

Looks perfect

One observation, you might want to bend one of the ground braids in one of the lower corners, so that one of the metal plate mounting screws, in one of the corners, penetrates it and forces a better connection.

The metal plate is more than just a mount for the boards, its the chassis ground and has to connect to the A/C cord thru the lower cabinet wiring ground braid.

The one on the left is a likely candidate. Certainly you can do both if you wish.

Solid grounds are important.

#1929 2 years ago

done . Just put the right side boards on first. will leave the left until I make sure that the light board hinges are properly aligned.
164650092_10158842312140211_8428514608566193004_n (resized).jpg164650092_10158842312140211_8428514608566193004_n (resized).jpg165206086_10158842311860211_5215153155076884274_n (resized).jpg165206086_10158842311860211_5215153155076884274_n (resized).jpg

#1930 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Ed at GPE is there to save you!
You will be ordering all if your harness connectors from him if needed.
Also molex connectors as needed to modularize the game for easy maintenance.
Does your harness have all the connectors on it?
If not:
Count the pins on the circuit boards and order accordingly.
Get a few spare 24 pin housings.
They can be cut to length if you need.
These are the regular connectors, .156 size, get the keying plugs and trifurcon pins:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=81
These are the CPU board connectors, .100 size, also get keying plugs and crimping pins:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=68
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=73
This is the crimping tool i use, it works for every connection on the game:
amazon.com link »

first one:

spare 24 pins
Part NumberC
S156-24-LR

Part Number08-50-0134

Keying plug
Part Number15-04-0219
pins
Part Number08-52-0125

last part
Part Number15-04-9209
Part Number08-50-0114-C
Part Number22-01-2247

just making sure .

#1931 2 years ago

Looking great!!! I hope you send a real or virtual beer to pinballinreno !

#1932 2 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

first one:
spare 24 pins
Part NumberC
S156-24-LR
Part Number08-50-0134
Keying plug
Part Number15-04-0219
pins
Part Number08-52-0125
last part
Part Number15-04-9209
Part Number08-50-0114-C
Part Number22-01-2247
just making sure .

looks great!

#1933 2 years ago

OK, so the lights board is alive and active. the connector parts are ordered and on their way. that just leaves the light board hinges. and since I don't need that there to power it up, that should wait...but since it needs to be done....and measurements so I know EXACTLY how far in, and how high it needs to be from bottom to sides?

from eyeballing it looks like it could be right, but I want to be sure.
this was posted earlier from someone elses.

It also looks like it needs different screws to pop in from the outside.
507d1b2d6554262c94902d258c89fbdb3497f1a3 (resized).jpg507d1b2d6554262c94902d258c89fbdb3497f1a3 (resized).jpg

#1934 2 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

It also looks like it needs different screws to pop in from the outside.

Carriage bolt heads on those screws.

#1936 2 years ago

Small carriage bolts of a satisfatory length can be purchased at home depot.

Originals are silver, but people paint them black.

Take some drill bits in hand, to figure the size, and sort out the width and length you need.

The hole I drilled was 3/16", so maybe a 10-24 bolt?

If you mount the DMD panel all you have to do is make sure the light board can pass over it when it swings.
And the lamps, or wood blocks on them dont hit the backglass.

Most of them pass over the DMD by 1/4" to 3/8" of clearance. More is a little better.

I beleive I posted some rough measurements earlier.

If the light board is too high, its never a problem unless its so High the key at the top hits it. Washers are on the hinge post for adjustments.

If it to far in, its also never a problem, the hinges are slotted to give you adjustment.

#1937 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Small carriage bolts of a satisfatory length can be purchased at home depot.
Originals are silver, but people paint them black.
Take some drill bits in hand, to figure the size, and sort out the width and length you need.
The hole I drilled was 3/16", so maybe a 10-24 bolt?

good guess . we had our experts in here measure the hole and it's spot on .

will be here tomorrow. now all that remains is making sure the hinges are proper length before I drill anything.

I will try and order the last of the wiring needed before the end of april. maybe then we can fire it up .
dentist set me back for $400 a few weeks ago..ugh.

#1938 2 years ago
Quoted from JimWilks:

Carriage bolt heads on those screws.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Small carriage bolts of a satisfatory length can be purchased at home depot.
Originals are silver, but people paint them black.
Take some drill bits in hand, to figure the size, and sort out the width and length you need.
The hole I drilled was 3/16", so maybe a 10-24 bolt?

10-24's are quite rare in pinball. Typically 10-32 instead.

#1939 2 years ago
Quoted from JimWilks:

10-24's are quite rare in pinball. Typically 10-32 instead.

well, pretty darn close to spot on for an eyeball at least

Delivers Apr 2, 10 am - 12 pm
1 18-8 Stainless Steel Square-Neck Carriage Bolt
10-32 Thread Size, 1-1/4" Long
92356A263

#1940 2 years ago
Quoted from JimWilks:

10-24's are quite rare in pinball. Typically 10-32 instead.

I think that 10-24 is a common carriage bolt thread in woodworking, but either will work perfectly.

The picture above is from my funhouse restore. I didnt bother painting the bracket, I sanded it and soaked it in Flitz, then called it good enough lol.

You never see them.

#1941 2 years ago

browsing a hep thread...this might give me a better angle

looks like one right above the bally and one right above the pinball.

011461d717a9195dcefd8255e995f1608e00f007 (resized).jpg011461d717a9195dcefd8255e995f1608e00f007 (resized).jpg
#1942 2 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

browsing a hep thread...this might give me a better angle
looks like one right above the bally and one right above the pinball.
[quoted image]

4 months ago...
My exact measurement, especially for you:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-scratch-build/page/33#post-5989685

#1944 2 years ago

So we did some eye balling and rough measurments...how does this look?

167133540_10158844441395211_5763823141837575734_n (resized).jpg167133540_10158844441395211_5763823141837575734_n (resized).jpg
#1945 2 years ago

why do I not remember seeing that first image with the full shot of the ruler? All I Remember seeing is the little closer up shots that where harder to distinguish......These where the posts I was referring to earlier......THAT is what I was looking for...and it was there the whole time....

I think darwin awards was based on me .

#1946 2 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

So we did some eye balling and rough measurments...how does this look?[quoted image]

Way too low.
I probably have measurements. Always have to drill these.

#1947 2 years ago

Here are my own measurements I use.
Swing panel
Top
2 7/8 down
2 1/8 over from back
4 5/8 over from back

Bottom
8 5/8 from bottom edge
Side to side same as Top

#1948 2 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Way too low.
I probably have measurements. Always have to drill these.

Yes, too low. The inserted key just barely clears the notch in the lightboard.

#1949 2 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Way too low.
I probably have measurements. Always have to drill these.

That's what I was thinking too. For some reason I don't think it was supposed to hit the THING panel, but clear it.
I will use your measurements and the photos re-linked earlier and get this done tomorrow when my bolts arrive.

with my few memory lapses so far, it'll be amazing if this thing powers on without a fire in a month or so .

#1950 2 years ago

The lamp panel brackets on the panel itself look a bit off.
That top one should be closer
This is from a shadow I am doing right now but it’s pretty universal when it comes to that.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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