I was going to staple it as I went along so it was straight, but figured it would be easier and quicker to do it after I was done. maybe I'll switch up the order next line.
I was going to staple it as I went along so it was straight, but figured it would be easier and quicker to do it after I was done. maybe I'll switch up the order next line.
hmm, wasn't thinking about that..... but, all of the screws are in the 'tab' with the one hole. and right now, all the wires are running to the tab with the 'two holes'. so at least that part of it is concurrent...
I'll have to take it off that first one and angle it a little higher so they don't cross.
Quoted from Shredder565:and before I do anymore, how does this first set look?[quoted image]
Should look like railroad tracks as in the sample photo you were given.
Since the wire on those sockets is bare, you cant cross it.
Follow exactly the photo. There are 3 separate circuits to do, look closely.
Only one of the circuits is the bare wire.
The other 2 separate circuits will be insulated wire in separate colors, it doesnt matter what colors you use..
This is not a simple circuit like xmas tree lights, there are 3 separate things going on.
Just exactly match the pictures you have been given.
Quoted from Shredder565:hmm, you're right. I didn't notice that third. it's kind of tough to tell which is the bare wire and which is the colored wire. but this was the image posted earlier I was going on. it looks like the third is yellow and white.
[quoted image]
Yes, there are 2 GI circuits here - Yellow/white and Orange/White. Using the correct colors for the wire will make future troubleshooting much easier.
Quoted from Shredder565:in that case, what gauge wire do I need so it won't go on fire like R2 did because it was too thin?
22
Pinball machines basically use 2 wire sizes. 18 and 22
There are some finer wires in some circumstances, but 22 works there too.
There are also some 16 ga wires in the AC circuit to the transformer, but thats about all there is.
Quoted from Shredder565:hmm, you're right. I didn't notice that third. it's kind of tough to tell which is the bare wire and which is the colored wire. but this was the image posted earlier I was going on. it looks like the third is yellow and white.
[quoted image]
The plastic IDC connections are all insulated wires in the photo.
The metal stapled ones are all bare braided wire.
Just wire it exactly like the photo and you will be ok.
You can see where the bare wire circuit is patched onto one of the insulated circuits.
You can also see where the nylon ties are, where the 2 paired wire sets are bundled in order to exit the light board and go to the driver board connector at j-121 or j-122.
So, 4 wires exit the light board.
The bare wire sockets are the #455 blinker bulbs. The plastic sockets are regular GI bulbs, either #44-47 style or #555 wedge style, either will work here.
good thing I saved this site...
Order #102512
Date: 03/26/2021 11:17:54 EDT
Thank you for your order. Please keep this invoice for your records.
US
Items in your order
Name Quantity Unit Price Total
Primary Tracer Marine Tinned Copper 22 Gauge x 25 FT Coil - Yellow Wire & White Stripe - USA Primary Tracer Marine Tinned Copper 22 Gauge x 25 FT Coil - Yellow Wire & White Stripe - USA 1 $6.81
Primary Tracer Marine Tinned Copper 22 Gauge x 25 FT Coil - Orange Wire & Black Stripe - USA Primary Tracer Marine Tinned Copper 22 Gauge x 25 FT Coil - Orange Wire & Black Stripe - USA 1 $6.81
Shipping: Economy: $8.95
Total: $22.57
One day I will have to lay out my wires for the harness and see about reconstructing it with all new stuff. but first I need to clear out some space.
Quoted from JimWilks:Yes, there are 2 GI circuits here - Yellow/white and Orange/White. Using the correct colors for the wire will make future troubleshooting much easier.
Exactly! Only two circuits. The bare wires are simply an extension of the yellow circuit...not a separate circuit. I'd also show the connector and wire positions, but my game is at my son's house.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Exactly! Only two circuits. The bare wires are simply an extension of the yellow circuit...not a separate circuit. I'd also show the connector and wire positions, but my game is at my son's house.
Yep.
In my mind, the 3rd bare wire circuit for the blinkers is separate, but patched in.
But I have to agree that really its only 2 circuits and can be wired as such.
Quoted from Shredder565:[quoted image]
Looks ok.
There are only 7 lamps in the blinker circuit.
If you look closely, you have one extra in the upper left corner of your wiring.
It may not matter, but if it pulses with a regular bulb there, this is why.
I would just unsolder it and staple the wires around the socket so they dont touch it.
wires get here tuesday. boards and board parts get here Monday. one step closer to powering on, if that union guy in the office ever gets around to helping finish the ground braid in the top cabinet . my hands are not steady enough for a neat looking job .
also, some creative re wiring. now I no longer need to constantly switch out the audio plugs. my switch, 4K Projector and PC are all sharing the same input line.
166094085_10158833792210211_8212893563136572714_n (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:my hands are not steady enough for a neat looking job
Are they steady enough to play pinball?
of course! Just not to do steady work at odd angles. when you spend most of your days leaning over in front of a computer screen doing typing or 3D work, your dexterity gets kind of lost for hand to hand type construction.
I don't trust myself not to muscle spasm/cramp at odd angles and wreck something. the curse of not moving around much all day...video game skills not affected of course . although maybe a tad slower reaction than 20 years ago!
Quoted from Shredder565:of course! Just not to do steady work at odd angles. when you spend most of your days leaning over in front of a computer screen doing typing or 3D work, your dexterity gets kind of lost for hand to hand type construction.
I don't trust myself not to muscle spasm/cramp at odd angles and wreck something. the curse of not moving around much all day...video game skills not affected of course . although maybe a tad slower reaction than 20 years ago!
if your worried about proper feed solder, then get a solder feeder. i want one because i think its a nice to have
I noticed all the text on the roms are upside down on here....but I tried to follow the indent/pintout
Quoted from Shredder565:now we are cooking. before I set anything, does that look right?[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks good, the chips are not fully inserted.
They are just sitting on the socket?
They have to be fully pressed in, all the way, the small ends of the legs get fully pushed in.
Do it carefully and try not to bend a leg, make sure all the legs are in the sockets.
Its best to do both sides at once. Dont push all the legs in on one side and then the other.
Get them all going in at once. Carefully, watching that the legs are going where they are supposed to.
You can slide a small screwdriver under the chip to ease it out if you have to.
Its helpful to squeeze the pins in a little to get them square before insertion.
Quoted from Shredder565:I noticed all the text on the roms are upside down on here....but I tried to follow the indent/pintout
The label on the chip is meaningless.
Always go by the indent that matches the graphic on the board.
yeah, I didn't press them in yet, I just want to make sure they are all facing the right way first before I do..
Quoted from Shredder565:yeah, I didn't press them in yet, I just want to make sure they are all facing the right way first before I do..
You are good to go then!
The picture on the board is really helpful for orientation.
Noticing the cutout on the chip and putting it in correctly is super important.
As always, as you have done, get a second opinion if you are unsure.
The ASIC, looks great.
Ok, so, I think the next step needs to be, get the light board hinges properly measured and installed. I know their measurment is off now. THEN get the cpu board installed, once the ground braid is done on top.
after that, what is next?
Inspect the work after is all crunched in. Use a magnifier if necessary.
Its very easy to have one pin left out and not socketed
I have done thousands, and still once in awhile one gets left out.
Quoted from pinballinreno:As always, as you have done, get a second opinion if you are unsure.
Or a second second opinion.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Removing_or_Installing_the_ASIC
Quoted from Shredder565:Ok, so, I think the next step needs to be, get the light board hinges properly measured and installed. I know their measurment is off now. THEN get the cpu board installed, once the ground braid is done on top.
after that, what is next?
Get the ground braid done.
Then mount the big metal plate.
Get the light board insert installed and aligned.
Then mount the circuit boards.
Get the cabinet wiring done and installed.
Check all the voltages and grounds.
Dont plug anything into any boards until you are sure of the wiring and voltages and grounds.
install the coin door interface board.
Quoted from DumbAss:Or a second second opinion.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Removing_or_Installing_the_ASIC
Perfect!
Quoted from DumbAss:Or a second second opinion.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Removing_or_Installing_the_ASIC
based upon that link, I DID indeed read the asic wrong. it's installed properly now .
Quoted from pinballinreno:Get the ground braid done.
Then mount the big metal plate.
Get the light board insert installed and aligned.
Then mount the circuit boards.
Get the cabinet wiring done and installed.
Check all the voltages and grounds.
Dont plug anything into any boards until you are sure of the wiring and voltages and grounds.
install the coin door interface board.
So close to powering it on for the first time it's silly .
have to be very careful not to rush it out of eagerness.....a character flaw sometimes!
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, so I strong armed my help. how does THAT look?
Next step if OK is to get the hinges properly done.
[quoted image][quoted image]
The braid should go just below the big upper vent holes. At some time you will put in a rodent guard/bug screen to cover the vent holes.
one for the back box:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-01-6645
one for the lower cabinet, if you havent done it already:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-01-8169
The braid you have mounted in the lower right should bend so that the end of it goes under the metal plate, once its installed.
Other than that, it looks good enough!
hmm, I'm glad it's not higher up, because the other photos showed it above and my stapler wasn't thin enough to reach the top heh. lower is def easier.
I'll fix that tomorrow
Quoted from Shredder565:hmm, I'm glad it's not higher up, because the other photos showed it above and my stapler wasn't thin enough to reach the top heh. lower is def easier.
I'll fix that tomorrow
Above or below doesnt matter so much.
But the metal vent screen should touch it.
I cant tell, but it looks like you still have to add the grounding peg, to attach the lower cabinet ground braid to the upper.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I cant tell, but it looks like you still have to add the grounding peg, to attach the lower cabinet ground braid to the upper.
yep, I still need the grounding peg/put in. that's on the list as well along with the mesh I'll put in an order for.
Backbox Vent/Screen 01-6645 - PPS-01-6645
1 $9.95 $9.95
Vent Hole Screen 01-8169 - PPS-01-8169
1 $9.95 $9.95
Shipping: USPS First-Class Package Service - Retail : $7.45
Sales Tax: $0.00
Total: $27.35
Quoted from Shredder565:Backbox Vent/Screen 01-6645 - PPS-01-6645
1 $9.95 $9.95
Vent Hole Screen 01-8169 - PPS-01-8169
1 $9.95 $9.95
Shipping: USPS First-Class Package Service - Retail : $7.45
Sales Tax: $0.00
Total: $27.35
The ground peg is just a popbumper nail hammered into a 1/8" drilled hole.
Fold the head down and drill it from the bottom. Its not critical where it goes, just keep it to the left side a bit.
Also, to install the cpu board, we just need 3/8 screws? nothing special? my order comes in tomorrow .
you are looking good for backbox. from what i know, i think the metal plate is screwed in with the same style screwss as under the playfeild.
Quoted from Pinball_Hawk:you are looking good for backbox. from what i know, i think the metal plate is screwed in with the same style screwss as under the playfeild.
No! regular playfield screws will punch thru and ruin the finish outside.
You have to use the gold 3/8" playfield screws like for the light sockets.
Quoted from Shredder565:Also, to install the cpu board, we just need 3/8 screws? nothing special? my order comes in tomorrow .
Yes, 3/8" playfield screws.
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