Nashville, TN
Quoted from Shredder565:that it does. already on order . as well as a custom wire form ramp beautifully designed.
nice, who made it for you?
(Topic ID: 257696)
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Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
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1 week later
Took a break down at the beach for a few days to try and relax. I'm about done with funeral stuff for another 20 years hopefully.
Usually Mr.Bill takes down Barnacle Bill for the winter, but my favorite local arcade still has him up for the first time in a while for a winter season 
.
My ramp and wires ship soon 
.
What's a good thing to try next to get he bottom cabinet running that's easy? trying to get back into the swing of things..
944751_349069795224123_2051995465_n (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:Took a break down at the beach for a few days to try and relax. I'm about done with funeral stuff for another 20 years hopefully.
Usually Mr.Bill takes down Barnacle Bill for the winter, but my favorite local arcade still has him up for the first time in a while for a winter season .
My ramp and wires ship soon .
What's a good thing to try next to get he bottom cabinet running that's easy? trying to get back into the swing of things..[quoted image]
I finally sorted out trims for CPR backglasses.
Go to the top of the thread linked below. Its informative.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cpr-backglass-trim#post-6082778
Get the system 11 trim.
No hammering etc.
Fits like it should.
Very sorry for your loss....
Found this post today. I have been absent from Pinside from sometime, but enjoyed reading this thread.
What's the tally $ wise? If you don't mind sharing. I restored an Addams that was rough, but working; and it was not cheap. Can only imagine if your buying each part, its going to be painful. Keep up the good work.
I would say about $6500 now. I knew that if I had a used one (OCD wouldn't allow me to buy it ;o))..that I'd probably spend that much anyway fixing it up. So, might as well learn from the bottom up and go ALL new.
Luckily with Addams Family, you can find parts; and build from the ground up. Its an amazing undertaking, and looks great so far.
What about metal ball guides, can you find those? These might be the hardest thing to track down.
Quoted from BrianZ:What about metal ball guides, can you find those? These might be the hardest thing to track down.
A few are available, but you're right that most aren't. People doing scratch builds are having them laser cut. There's some discussion of this upthread - see, eg, #456, #781. The wireform crossover ramp also has to be custom built.
Quoted from pinballinreno:He made them from scratch!
Impressive build so far.
Someone had the files already, you just send them out to get laser cut.
Quoted from Mbecker:Someone had the files already, you just send them out to get laser cut.
Theat would be woody, the master of scratch builds.
Budapest
Quoted from Davi:Wally
Ummmm....Wally lol. Thanks! (Kirkland Scotch is AWSOME stuff....)
Quoted from wallybgood:Been thinking about changing over to Woodybgood.
Wally
I like it!
Quoted from mjr:A few are available, but you're right that most aren't. People doing scratch builds are having them laser cut. There's some discussion of this upthread - see, eg, #456, #781. The wireform crossover ramp also has to be custom built.
Sorry, I missed it. Impressed. I know what it took to restore my Addams....but this is in another league. Keep posting updates.
1 week later
Yeah, AOL is just a spam filled ad-ware at this point. Yahoo is no better.
Google has made a really nice, full featured system out of the gmail, I would go there.
As far as your game, I would still concentrate on getting the cabinet finished and powered up so you can see the game menu and hear the sound.
Then finish the playfield, you will use the game menu tests to work out the lighting and switches, as well as test the mechs.
Im about where you are on my funhouse resto. I think we started about the same time, a year ago.
The door is done and installed (not shown).
All the posts are installed and the pop bumpers.
And today im polishing and installing the flatrails. Then I will install the GI lighting.
A have also added Williams system 11 trim, from pinball life, to the CPR backglass (also not shown lol). No hammering, it slides on perfectly.
But the game is up and running and the new speakers sound awesome!
20210107_153401 (resized).jpg
yep, that looks about the same status .
Now that I have most of the lower wiring, how close am I to your setup of getting the game powered on and running? maybe that will motivate me to get closer . Until then, I still have it to play on Wii U pinball arcade
Quoted from Shredder565:yep, that looks about the same status .
Now that I have most of the lower wiring, how close am I to your setup of getting the game powered on and running? maybe that will motivate me to get closer . Until then, I still have it to play on Wii U pinball arcade
Install ground braid in the head and lower cabinet.
Install lightboard latches/hinges if you havent already.
install speaker panel brackets and finish the speaker panel if not done already.
Install the boards into the head. Install the interconnect board into the cabinet.
install the cabinet power harness, transformer harness, switchbox etc., plug it into the wall and check the power with a meter across all the transformer leads.
Install the cabinet switch harness.
Dont put the ribbon cables onto the boards yet. Dont hook up the display yet.
plug the power harness into the driver board in the head.
turn game on and check the power at the test points and fuses.
If it all checks out, put on the ribbon cables.
Turn on and check for pulsing LED on the cpu board.
If that checks out, turn it off and hook up the display.
Turn it on and the game should boot with the display.
About 3 days work.
Quoted from pinballinreno:About 3 days work.
THAT motivated me . much faster than my conservative estimate of july .
Quoted from Shredder565:THAT motivated me . much faster than my conservative estimate of july .
I have done all that work (plus a bit more) in one long,LONG 17 hour day.
I didnt enjoy it, but it was a paid job.
On my personal games I dont push myself that hard. But I enjoy it 10 times more. I dont actually do a better job for myself, I do my best each game regardless. But taking my time lets me admire my work, a little... lol.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Install ground braid in the head and lower cabinet.
Install lightboard latches/hinges if you havent already.
install speaker panel brackets and finish the speaker panel if not done already.
Install the boards into the head. Install the interconnect board into the cabinet.
install the cabinet power harness, transformer harness, switchbox etc., plug it into the wall and check the power with a meter across all the transformer leads.
Install the cabinet switch harness.
Dont put the ribbon cables onto the boards yet. Dont hook up the display yet.
plug the power harness into the driver board in the head.
turn game on and check the power at the test points and fuses.
If it all checks out, put on the ribbon cables.
Turn on and check for pulsing LED on the cpu board.
If that checks out, turn it off and hook up the display.
Turn it on and the game should boot with the display.
About 3 days work.
After all that, hook up the cabinet switch harness to the door, flippers and tilt bob (while off of course).
Install the colorDMD firmware, make any adjustment needed, if any.
check that the coin door buttons work by going into the menu's and testing the flipper switches if they are installed etc.
Hook up the speakers! Just install the pinsound stereo cable and tie it down a bit (this is super easy). Install the pinsound current firmware then install the classic audio package.
Now you can enter the game menu and hear the sound !!!!!! (sound and music test) Play with the 6 dials on the pinsound and enyoy the very POWERFUL sounds, lol.
Calgary, AB
Quoted from pinballinreno:Install ground braid in the head and lower cabinet.
Install lightboard latches/hinges if you havent already.
install speaker panel brackets and finish the speaker panel if not done already.
Install the boards into the head. Install the interconnect board into the cabinet.
install the cabinet power harness, transformer harness, switchbox etc., plug it into the wall and check the power with a meter across all the transformer leads.
Install the cabinet switch harness.
Dont put the ribbon cables onto the boards yet. Dont hook up the display yet.
plug the power harness into the driver board in the head.
turn game on and check the power at the test points and fuses.
If it all checks out, put on the ribbon cables.
Turn on and check for pulsing LED on the cpu board.
If that checks out, turn it off and hook up the display.
Turn it on and the game should boot with the display.
About 3 days work.
I would suggest since it is a new transformer test the voltages before you plug it in your driver board and not power up and test the voltages on the driver board!!
Also if you would like to enter the menu and test your flipper Optos you will need the lower cabinet wiring.
Quoted from Shredder565:Took a break down at the beach for a few days to try and relax. I'm about done with funeral stuff for another 20 years hopefully.
Usually Mr.Bill takes down Barnacle Bill for the winter, but my favorite local arcade still has him up for the first time in a while for a winter season .
My ramp and wires ship soon .
What's a good thing to try next to get he bottom cabinet running that's easy? trying to get back into the swing of things..[quoted image]
Upvoting for the Muffler Man, Barnacle Bill. I try to seek out the muffler men in my travels.
Quoted from JIMAKOST:I would suggest since it is a new transformer test the voltages before you plug it in your driver board and not power up and test the voltages on the driver board!!
Also if you would like to enter the menu and test your flipper Optos you will need the lower cabinet wiring.
IT's a good thing I work in an officce of electronic experts that can help with this. ..
Step one:
Install ground braid in the head and lower cabinet.
Are there any good videos detailing on how this is done in an addams? want to have an idea of what i'm in for before I start.
Quoted from Shredder565:IT's a good thing I work in an officce of electronic experts that can help with this. ..
Step one:
Install ground braid in the head and lower cabinet.
Are there any good videos detailing on how this is done in an addams? want to have an idea of what i'm in for before I start.
HEP has some good pictures of the braid locations. I use the 1/4” wide braid and try to find the most efficient directions to connect all the points using right angle turns. But i’m a little ocd about that kind of stuff. Use an upholstery pneumatic staple gun and staples.
Quoted from Shredder565:IT's a good thing I work in an officce of electronic experts that can help with this. ..
Step one:
Install ground braid in the head and lower cabinet.
Are there any good videos detailing on how this is done in an addams? want to have an idea of what i'm in for before I start.
I agree, use the HEP photos for braid locations.
Its pretty easy with a long nose stapler and 3/8" staples, electric or pneumatic, your choice.
Im using a Ryobi stapler (because I have one) but you have to follow up with a tack hammer to set them down once in awhile. And its tough to use it to pinpoint staples in tight locations, but it works ok.
Stapling in maple plywood is somewhat tougher than regular plywood, but not too bad.
If you do a splice, just staple it and run a playfield screw through the 2 layers.
Its not that critical of an install, just get it done.
Williams and Bally assembly workers just put it wherever they seemed to want it, walls floor etc.
There seems to be no correct way to do it, just make it touch all metal somehow.
Chris Hutchins Does really nice and beautiful work. He makes mistakes too, just pull the staple with diagonals and touch it up with a oil based sharpie marker.
Once the game is done you will never see the ground braid. Its functional more than art.
Quoted from Shredder565:IT's a good thing I work in an officce of electronic experts that can help with this. ..
Step one:
Install ground braid in the head and lower cabinet.
Are there any good videos detailing on how this is done in an addams? want to have an idea of what i'm in for before I start.
Here are some pics of the head.
h016 (resized).jpgh017 (resized).jpgh018 (resized).jpgh020 (resized).jpgh019 (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:that looks easy enough. I'll start with what I have and order more as needed....project for monday.
A drunken, one-eyed chimp can do a better job than the Bally/Williams assemblers on this...
Im absolutely sure that whatever you come up with will be more than adequate.
Take note of where the wiring harness loops are from the pics.
This will come in handy when you want to secure the harnesses.
Thanks Bryan for the pictures!
Quoted from pinballinreno:A drunken, one-eyed chimp can do a better job than the Bally/Williams assemblers on this...
never insult the drunken monkey. this is harder than it looks . either that, or I need a better stapler than the one I have, which probably wouldn't be a bad idea. I have to see if we have an industrial one.
Quoted from Shredder565:never insult the drunken monkey. this is harder than it looks . either that, or I need a better stapler than the one I have, which probably wouldn't be a bad idea. I have to see if we have an industrial one.
A pneumatic stapler certainly makes things easier.
In your previous pic, pay attention to how the braid is run near that small vertically mounted block in between the two horizontal blocks. This is what your playfield hits when you lift it all the way to vertical.
when your new stapler doesn't come with the right staples...sigh.
or any staples...double sigh.
on hold till friday now heh.
Quoted from Shredder565:when your new stapler doesn't come with the right staples...sigh.
or any staples...double sigh.
on hold till friday now heh.
home depot has the staples.
Quoted from pinballinreno:home depot has the staples.
I may have too brave the 3 feet of snow. the staples I got arrived a day early. and I found out that this stupid stapler I choose only takes proprietary staples from their website. ugh. $15's of junk.
Quoted from Shredder565:I may have too brave the 3 feet of snow.
Oh its not that bad out there.
Quoted from fiberdude120:Oh its not that bad out there.
it feels like it everytime I see another inch of snow on the ground every morning ..ugh.
well, good news was.....I ordered the right stuff. bad news was, I was trying to install it wrong. at least I didn't waste $15's...but I might win a darwin award!
Quoted from Shredder565:it feels like it everytime I see another inch of snow on the ground every morning ..ugh.
Im just kidding this stuff sucks. Im out there in the morning just like you with the stupid shovel and blower.
Quoted from Shredder565:it feels like it everytime I see another inch of snow on the ground every morning ..ugh.
well, good news was.....I ordered the right stuff. bad news was, I was trying to install it wrong. at least I didn't waste $15's...but I might win a darwin award!
Test the stapler on some scrap wood to get a feel for it.
I am not too happy with my first attempts. Looks very sloppy. this may be a two person job. one to hold the wire in place and the other to staple it.
Quoted from Shredder565:Looks very sloppy. this may be a two person job. one to hold the wire in place and the other to staple it.
Use a small tack in the middle of the braid to hold it for stapling.Remove once it's stapled.
Quoted from Shredder565:I am not too happy with my first attempts. Looks very sloppy. this may be a two person job. one to hold the wire in place and the other to staple it.
Only if you're using two hands to operate the stapler. Once you have one end of the braid stapled down, it only takes one hand to position it where you want and the other to pull the trigger on the stapler.
Quoted from ThatOneDude:Use a small tack in the middle of the braid to hold it for stapling.Remove once it's stapled.
I've had a few staples go through the wire. doesn't that damage it's ability?
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