Quoted from Shredder565:NOW WE ARE COOKING[quoted image]
Nicely done!
Now you have to add the back panel.
Does anyone have a TAF playfield back panel or a template?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Does anyone have a TAF playfield back panel or a template
I believe there are some floating around the WPC builders facebook group.
Quoted from ThatOneDude:I believe there are some floating around the WPC builders facebook group.
We need a link!
I have been really enjoying this thread. While I already own a Addams Family, I have been wanting to do the exact same thing for a Twilight Zone machine. And if there is a WPC builders facebook group, WE NEED THAT LINK!
Quoted from pinballinreno:We need a link!
It was posted in the thread earlier:
Quoted from Shredder565:I hope that works. WPC95 remakes from wally.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1600485303527860/?ref=bookmarks
It's invite only, so ping wallybgood
Everyone here who is helping out is awesome! Op - your patience, attitude and ambition are top notch as well.
I’m almost out of projects myself and following along. I’m very tempted to try this myself. I would love an Addams in the lineup but know myself too well. If I bought a beat up original, I’d probably spend nearly as much time improving the original as building up from scratch.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Now you have to add the back panel.
damn i have a couple...coulda shipped it when i sent him other stuff.
Probably cost more to ship from here than to make one. If someone has the tools out there its just a small piece if 3/4" plywood cut to a certain size the angle cot on top with an indentation that will need to be done using a router or could use a chisel as well. I can provide measurements if needed.
Either way let me know....if you don't mind paying for shipping you can have it.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Nicely done!
Now you have to add the back panel.
Does anyone have a TAF playfield back panel or a template?
I have one if needed.
I'll see about making one of my own first . we have enough spare wood in the warehouse it shouldn't be too hard to do. will add it to the list
I posted the cad drawings of all the rails and back panel to that facebook group. I would like to give credit to Taylor Reese as I just dimensioned what he made me.
Quoted from Juicerc51:I posted the cad drawings of all the rails and back panel to that facebook group. I would like to give credit to Taylor Reese as I just dimensioned what he made me.
i'm at the file page now, which one do I want of the 9 files?
before I drill anymore holes, how does this placement look for testing?
127287207_10158543526450211_8494724542677991826_n (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:i'm at the file page now, which one do I want of the 9 files?
before I drill anymore holes, how does this placement look for testing?[quoted image]
Stay online, I will help.
Inside, right wall. Note: measurement in cm from the bottom inside. 1 inch is 2.54 cm.
On the paper the pitch is 1/2 cm.
Total 6 positions, no need to drill, use hex head wood screw. Left and right for fine tune, middle to fix.
Following your scratch build since your first post.
Loving the progres, game looks great so far haha.
Your ambition is inspiring!
Quoted from Shredder565:i'm at the file page now, which one do I want of the 9 files?
before I drill anymore holes, how does this placement look for testing?[quoted image]
The file is called "TAF Rail Drawings.dwg"
The backpanel is rectangular with a slot with rounded end cutout. The set of drawings on the far right. there are views of the front and right side.
Do you have a ramp yet?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-taf-clear-ramp-repro-180-shipped
It looks like you have the insert upside down. See the little U notch in the middle of the bottom edge in your photo? That's to clear the lock and key at the top.
Quoted from mjr:It looks like you have the insert upside down. See the little U notch in the middle of the bottom edge in your photo? That's to clear the lock and key at the top.
hmm, I was going by one picture I Saw, I think on here..wasn't sure which side was up...
Quoted from mjr:This might help:
https://www.ipdb.org/images/20/image-6.jpg
Perfect!
Quoted from Shredder565:hmm, I was going by one picture I Saw, I think on here..wasn't sure which side was up...
All is not lost! Just rotate it around and re-do it.
The U shaped center cutout is for the key. When turned the key cant be removed, so a cutout is made for the insert panel to go past it. Otherwise you wont be able to open the panel for inspection.
The lower left hinge should ride about 3/16" above the black H channel that sits on top of the display.
The upper hinge should not be tight to the insert panel at all, but allow for 1/4" to 3/8" or more of vertical adjustment
Vertical adjustment is handled by adding washers to the lower hinge pin to raise the insert panel so that it clears the speaker panel easily.
I rotated it and yeah, it does look more right. I will re do it this week.
My Ground Braid 20' arrived from pin shops. Probably should have gotten more .
I think a good new years resolution is to finish all the parts I Have left before starting new stuff. that means..
Getting my light board fitted with lights and wire.
getting my guide rails installed.
Getting my stair ramp furnished and installed.
get my kicker finished and installed.
getting my metal cpu board and boards installed.
getting the braid started.
that should fill up january slots heh.
Quoted from Shredder565:I rotated it and yeah, it does look more right. I will re do it this week.
My Ground Braid 20' arrived from pin shops. Probably should have gotten more .
I think a good new years resolution is to finish all the parts I Have left before starting new stuff. that means..
Getting my light board fitted with lights and wire.
getting my guide rails installed.
Getting my stair ramp furnished and installed.
get my kicker finished and installed.
getting my metal cpu board and boards installed.
getting the braid started.
that should fill up january slots heh.
20' of ground braid might be a little short.
I get it from here, its a good price:
https://www.thirdcoastpinballandgraphics.com/store/p10/Ground_Braid_-_1%2F4%22_by_10%27.html
Get the game up and running, then go back to the playfield.
Install the ramps after the playfield is mounted in the cabinet.
Its way easier.
If I get a bonus this year, I'll givei t an order , heh.
my last buy from pinshops this year arrived. 7 switch opto board
Quoted from pinballinreno:20' of ground braid might be a little short.
I get it from here, its a good price:
https://www.thirdcoastpinballandgraphics.com/store/p10/Ground_Braid_-_1%2F4%22_by_10%27.html
Get the game up and running, then go back to the playfield.
Install the ramps after the playfield is mounted in the cabinet.
Its way easier.
I believe you about installing ramps after mounting the playfield , could you please explain why?
Thanks.
Quoted from Pinball_Postal:I believe you about installing ramps after mounting the playfield , could you please explain why?
Thanks.
The playfield is quite heavy and cumbersome even if its only half populated.
Its best to mount the bottom half of the playfield on the rotisserie, maybe minus the flipper mechs.
Test all lighting and switches and mechs, before installing into the cabinet.
then install it into the cabinet.
You can hang the playfield and lower it into the cab, or raise the cabinet to meet up with a hanging playfield.
Or use 2 people to man handle the playfield into the cabinet.
There is only 1/8" to 1/4" of clearance between the playfield edge and the cabinet side walls, the playfield easily jams onto the cabinet walls thus destroying any side art that might be pre-applied, or scratches and gouges the wood. Its very heavy.
Its best to have it as light as possible to help facilitate the installation. Its way easier to control without the ramps and plastics on it.
Ramps and plastics often get broken during playfield installation and removal.
All of the top side was removed before removing the playfield, this is just a reversal of the steps/technique used to remove it.
I populate the entire playfield before it goes back in the cabinet.
Doing it this way, I can test everything as I go along.
SO much easier to install things when the playfield is in a rotisserie.
When it comes time to install the playfield, I have my lovely wife (she's sitting right here and made me say that) help me. It's also easier if the cabinet is off the legs. In these pics, the cabinet is on a lift and I lower it as low as possible.
440C049B-A48B-47DE-B48F-09D408DD04F6_1_105_c (resized).jpeg8D96B3E1-8D5E-4CF4-9890-A666F14D6FF7_1_105_c (resized).jpegLooking at those pics, it seems like i'm much closer to completing the cabinet than the playfield, heh. Once I get the speaker drilled in, the PS drilled in, the light board populated, and the CPU boards installed, it looks like it'll be about 50% done .
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I populate the entire playfield before it goes back in the cabinet.
Doing it this way, I can test everything as I go along.
SO much easier to install things when the playfield is in a rotisserie.
When it comes time to install the playfield, I have my lovely wife (she's sitting right here and made me say that) help me. It's also easier if the cabinet is off the legs. In these pics, the cabinet is on a lift and I lower it as low as possible.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I like that new rotisserie, looks like it works slick! I think Ill have to get one of those...
I also really like the way people hang the playfield on chains and then lift the cabinet up to meet the playfield via the lift cart.
Pinballgoddess has some trouble lifting and holding a fully populated playfield, so I lighten it up as much as possible.
Your lovely and talented helper must be in better shape, and have a bit more upper body strength
Quoted from pinballinreno:I like that new rotisserie, looks like it works slick! I think Ill have to get one of those...
I bought this from a buddy (who never used it) probably 15 years ago. No idea who made it but it's by far the nicest one I've ever had.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I bought this from a buddy (who never used it) probably 15 years ago. No idea who made it but it's by far the nicest one I've ever had.
wrd1972_PinDoc is making up something similar.
they are pretty nice, and a great price!
I especially like the sidekick mount system.
As the year stands to a close, it's been an interesting past twelve months. I knew I COULD get this far, just didn't think I WOULD. and with very little setbacks, other than lack of funds to continue at the moment.
But, this is where we stand now. I'm hoping by mid June, I will have the cabinet side of things completed next year and powered on safley.
I hope by this time next year, to have most of the playfield done. and maybe in 2022 tackle the wiring .
Congratulations! Quite a feat going about it in a non traditional way from the ground up. It looks like you’re getting there now!
Quoted from Pinless:Probably the first person ever to go from no pin experience whatsoever, to building a TAF from scratch.
not the smartest idea, I grant you. but with prop building experience, it helps a little
You are going to have to add a grounding post in the backbox for the backbox ground braid.
The lower cab ground braid attaches to this, to link the upper and lower braids together, as well as the speaker ground from the display panel.
20201229_142411 (resized).jpg
Drill a 1/8" hole here.
20201229_143516 (resized).jpg
Get a pop bumper nail and a 6-32 wing nut or a keps nut. Hammer it in from the bottom of the backbox.20201229_153530 (resized).jpg
Should look like this when done.
You can put it anywhere you want
Make sure its far enough back that it wont interfere with the GIOCD board that will probably go in later.
But it can be moved later if necessary with very little effort.
easy enough to do. I think the first thing I want to tackle is making a dent in the lower cabinet stuff first.
I've still got to screw in the speaker/grills. and screw in the PSU.
last thing 2020 did was take away our last grandparent at 96, so haven't felt like doing much on it lately, heh.
hoping for better 2021
Quoted from Shredder565:easy enough to do. I think the first thing I want to tackle is making a dent in the lower cabinet stuff first.
I've still got to screw in the speaker/grills. and screw in the PSU.
last thing 2020 did was take away our last grandparent at 96, so haven't felt like doing much on it lately, heh.
hoping for better 2021
Sorry for your loss..
Hopefully 2021 will be a great year for you and your Addams Family
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