assuming these don't come cheaper, this one might have to wait a while
https://shop.colordmd.com/led-replacement-display-for-addams-family-pinball-machine/
assuming these don't come cheaper, this one might have to wait a while
https://shop.colordmd.com/led-replacement-display-for-addams-family-pinball-machine/
Quoted from Shredder565:assuming these don't come cheaper, this one might have to wait a while
https://shop.colordmd.com/led-replacement-display-for-addams-family-pinball-machine/
You can look for a used display and add colorDMD later.
There are tons out there right now.
You might snag one for free.
Quoted from Shredder565:assuming these don't come cheaper, this one might have to wait a while
https://shop.colordmd.com/led-replacement-display-for-addams-family-pinball-machine/
Personally I'd go for the LCD version rather than the LED. You can always set the LCD to do dots instead of smooth if you prefer the dots look. It's all personal preference though.
Quoted from atrainn:Personally I'd go for the LCD version rather than the LED. You can always set the LCD to do dots instead of smooth if you prefer the dots look. It's all personal preference though.
The led version is much brighter.
TAF is a dark game.
Id be inclined to use that.
I think it matches the graphics better.
I bought both for my DW. I ended up using the LED one, it just had more presence and looked better.
TAF is a similar situation as far as colors etc.
Quoted from Shredder565:assuming these don't come cheaper, this one might have to wait a while
https://shop.colordmd.com/led-replacement-display-for-addams-family-pinball-machine/
They don’t come cheaper unless you do the non color dmd version. Not sure that anyone did DYI color Roms for that yet though. ColorDMD is the nice, yet pricey, plug and play version. Or get a used standard display for now, for cheap..
The other option is the slightly cheaper virtua pin one
https://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=231&zenid=egibgui8feopjpoi38chnd1k45
but not led
One of a few items to come.
121244589_10158433590035211_655948116403684095_n (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:The other option is the slightly cheaper virtua pin one
https://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=231&zenid=egibgui8feopjpoi38chnd1k45
Does that actually work in real pins? I'm pretty sure it's specifically for virtual pins. I don't think it would without pairing it with something like pin2dmd. At that point you'd just be buying it to pull the panels from it and use on a pin2dmd.
If you want color but want to skip the colordmd, you're other option is this: http://vpuniverse.com/forums/files/file/5534-the-addams-family/
You'll have to buy or build a pin2dmd board and set it up.
personally, I prefer the orange /b/w look. it's how i've always seen it, but folks here seem to be gearing for color. and i'm curious myself on how much better it looks. I don't mind springing for the color dmd one eventually. just curious what other options are out there in the color realm .
Quoted from atrainn:Personally I'd go for the LCD version rather than the LED. You can always set the LCD to do dots instead of smooth if you prefer the dots look.
Second that. I opted for the LED version for my ToM because I thought I'd like the more "original" look of the discrete LEDs better than the video look. Turns out I was wrong. The video version (which I have in another machine) looks better to my eye. The problem with the LEDs is that the sub-pixel structure of the RGB LEDs is WAY too obvious to the eye. Each individual color dot is much smaller than the original monochrome plasma pixels. When you have a block of a single color, you see a bunch of tiny little pinprick lights instead of the plasma-like dots. The video version looks much better (to my eye) because they can draw every pixel at full size for any color. They also give you more options for the display format (although I don't personally much like any of the modes other than the original "dots" mode). If you really want LED/plasma for the more original look, I'd go with monochrome; it'll look truer to the original. But at this point I prefer the look of the video displays even against the original plasmas.
Quoted from atrainn:It's all personal preference though.
Second that too. Opinion expressed above is subjective.
Quoted from atrainn:Does that actually work in real pins? I'm pretty sure it's specifically for virtual pins.
I'm pretty sure you're right that it DOESN'T work in real pins - it's set up for a USB connection to a PC running VPinMAME. (You might check with the vendor, though. It might just conceivably be like Pin2DMD where it has a dual interface, but I really doubt it; the guy who makes them is all about the virtual cab market.)
Quoted from mjr:I'm pretty sure you're right that it DOESN'T work in real pins - it's set up for a USB connection to a PC running VPinMAME. (You might check with the vendor, though. It might just conceivably be like Pin2DMD where it has a dual interface, but I really doubt it; the guy who makes them is all about the virtual cab market.)
Didn't think of that angle. I assumed because real production cabs where made, it also worked on real machines. something to ask about .
Also, plasma/LED. interesting point. sometimes too fine a detail isn't great either.
What's odd is the LED one is about $30's cheaper than the LCD one.
You can watch the short video on the colordmd site and see— color is a huge difference and while original is fine.. color is just so much better unless you are an absolute purist (in which case you’d better send back that speaker system and install insert melting incandescent bulbs too).
Quoted from Shredder565:Didn't think of that angle. I assumed because real production cabs where made, it also worked on real machines. something to ask about .
Also, plasma/LED. interesting point. sometimes too fine a detail isn't great either.
What's odd is the LED one is about $30's cheaper than the LCD one.
Depends on the game.
Some of the animations look better on the LCD when smoothed on some games. Mostly later ones.
Early games have simpler animations. LED versions look better on these imho.
The smoothing effect on games that have little shading in the artwork looks cartoonish and poorly executed.
TAF and DW for example is WPC89. Very early animations from 1993 with little shading.
I think LED works better.
IJ is later and ToM even later being WPC95. Much better animations on those.
I used smoothing on my ToM and it looks great.
Smoothing in my IJ was not what i wanted.
The big dots fixed it nicely.
A good compromise for LCD versions is the big dots setting.
However im thinking of going to LED in my current IJ resto.
The LCD version has 5 built in settings that you can scroll thru to get the game looking the way you want.
The LED version only has screen and brightness control.
One issue on the LED version is that the LED they used is tiny in a big black square.
So it looks like theres miles of blackness at lower brightness settings.
Its not as noticable at higher brightness settings.
The LCD isn't as eye searingly bright as the LED even at max brightness.
Darker games benefit fron the LED version, they look crisp and bright.
So, i think early games benefit from LED displays, later ones use LCD.
Im fortunate to have both types to play with in my shop. So for me its how they look and feel on the individual game.
Im thinking of going LED on my next TAF restore.
Quoted from Shredder565:What's odd is the LED one is about $30's cheaper than the LCD one.
Yeah, go figure. It's the economics of the underlying parts, I'm sure. They churn out very nice 16" LCD panels by the kajillion because they use them in laptops. Those 2.5mm-pitch LED panels are a weird specialty item they mostly use in Asia to build advertising walls. Parts priced accordingly.
I have some Pin2DMDs available.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/103381
For full color you will need to get the colorizaiton files from the author on vpuniverse.com (NetzZwerg). He may ask for a small donation as the colorizations often take 100s of hour to create.
Quoted from bsanders:I have some Pin2DMDs available.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/103381
For full color you will need to get the colorizaiton files from the author on vpuniverse.com (NetzZwerg). He may ask for a small donation as the colorizations often take 100s of hour to create.
so, that THING panel posted afew pages back. would that work with LCD? or does that need to be LED? never did figure out how to order it. could not find it on the web page linked.
Quoted from Shredder565:so, that THING panel posted afew pages back. would that work with LCD? or does that need to be LED? never did figure out how to order it. could not find it on the web page linked.
The LCD version is very tall and doesnt fit very well onto the game.
It slides over the Thing board.
The knobs for the 555 light bulbs get in the way.
A LED thing board was developed to eliminate the knobs therefore allowing the LCD to fit.
In fact, you might not be able to swing out the light board without folding down the speaker panel, even with a modified Thing board.
Some people cut out the light board to accomodate the LCD screen.
The LED screen is exactly the same size as the original DMD.
Its a drop-in replacement and no modifications are needed..
Quoted from Shredder565:so, that THING panel posted afew pages back. would that work with LCD?
Yes, thats what its for.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Some people cut out the light board to accomodate the LCD screen.
Indeed, if I understand correctly, that's actually how they're *meant* to be used. I believe they programmed it so that the LCD serves as a replacement for the lamp board by simulating the lamps on video. (That is, a big white square lights up in the appropriate area for each lamp as needed, to back-light the panel in lieu of the #555 bulb.) I've seen mixed reports on the brightness for that, with some saying it's not as bright as the original lamp and others saying it's a matter of adjusting the panel's brightness settings properly.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The LCD version is very tall and doesnt fit very well onto the game.
Just to clarify that, they use a 16" laptop panel, 16:9 aspect ratio, which is about 1/4" taller than the whole speaker panel and about the same width as the DMD cutout area. For most other games (ones without an extra light board like the THING lights), it's a workable fit, despite the overhang; it just sticks up just slightly above the top of the speaker panel, but that doesn't create any space conflicts in most machines. If you take out the THING lights as the manufacturer intends, it should be equally workable with TAF. It's a matter of whether that's acceptable to you.
Quoted from mjr:Indeed, if I understand correctly, that's actually how they're *meant* to be used. I believe they programmed it so that the LCD serves as a replacement for the lamp board by simulating the lamps on video. (That is, a big white square lights up in the appropriate area for each lamp as needed, to back-light the panel in lieu of the #555 bulb.) I've seen mixed reports on the brightness for that, with some saying it's not as bright as the original lamp and others saying it's a matter of adjusting the panel's brightness settings properly.
So, let me see if I'm understanding all this properly.
The LCD version can be used as a replacement for the THING lamps, as it's big enough to fit over that section?
that's how my limited brain read all that, so there's a good chance i'm wrong .
Quoted from Shredder565:So, let me see if I'm understanding all this properly.
The LCD version can be used as a replacement for the THING lamps, as it's big enough to fit over that section?
that's how my limited brain read all that, so there's a good chance i'm wrong .
You can start with Color DMD LCD without light board.
If the brightness is too low, and you are ready for DIY:
Light Board Mod TAF and DW.pdf
Quoted from Shredder565:So, let me see if I'm understanding all this properly.
The LCD version can be used as a replacement for the THING lamps, as it's big enough to fit over that section?
that's how my limited brain read all that, so there's a good chance i'm wrong .
I tried the lcd without the thing light board.
Yes its big enough to cover the thing light cutouts and has lighted square areas that match up to the speaker panel cutouts.
However,
Even at its highest brightness the thing lights are barely visable.
So, dont go that route.
ColorDMD has a fix on their website as Davi has shown, on how to upgrade your existing thing light board to flat, smd leds.
A much more elegant solution is to buy the aftermarket light board with smd leds already on it.
For the money its well worth it.
However, the led screen version doesnt need any modifications. Everything fits as it should.
Quoted from pinballinreno:ColorDMD has a fix on their website as davi has shown, on how to upgrade your existing thing light board to flat, smd leds.
A much more elegant solution is to buy the aftermarket light board with smd leds already on it.
For the money its well worth it.
However, the led screen version doesnt need any modifications. Everything fits as it should.
The LED option does seem to be the easiest way to go. Hopefully the picture will be fine . I still have another week or so to decide
Quoted from Shredder565:The LED option does seem to be the easiest way to go. Hopefully the picture will be fine . I still have another week or so to decide
Don't fret over going with LED. It has that "classic pinball" nostalgia feel you want, while still being a significant upgrade. And it'll fit without all the trickery.
Quoted from AaronZOOM:Don't fret over going with LED. It has that "classic pinball" nostalgia feel you want, while still being a significant upgrade. And it'll fit without all the trickery.
I agree with this.
LED fits the game really well.
Quoted from Davi:You can start with Color DMD LCD without light board.
If the brightness is too low, and you are ready for DIY:
or just order one of these from pinshakers
Quoted from Walamab:or just order one of these from pinshakers
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1206-pinshakers/03613-the-addams-family-thing-led-light-board
that'll work.
So, if I get LED, what version do I get?
https://shop.colordmd.com/led-replacement-display-sigma/
https://shop.colordmd.com/led-replacement-display-for-addams-family-pinball-machine/
Quoted from Shredder565:that'll work.
So, if I get LED, what version do I get?
https://shop.colordmd.com/led-replacement-display-sigma/
https://shop.colordmd.com/led-replacement-display-for-addams-family-pinball-machine/
I think they're exactly the same, although if someone offers to sell you "X for Addams Family" vs "X for generic" at the same price, I'd probably buy the one that's being marketed as special to your machine.
Quoted from mjr:I think they're exactly the same, although if someone offers to sell you "X for Addams Family" vs "X for generic
They are the same , however I do believe that if you order the Addams Family DMD it comes with the proper cable connectors for the game ? Either way you have to load the proper download for the colorization
Quoted from transprtr4u:They are the same , however I do believe that if you order the Addams Family DMD it comes with the proper cable connectors for the game ? Either way you have to load the proper download for the colorization
Yep.
Quoted from Shredder565:I hope after this, the only really approaching $400 products left are the few boards needed.
Get the cabinet complete and the game running on the display.
You will need this done in order to complete the playfield.
The only complaint I have is the unlit LED's are quite visible and it's super annoying to me. Waiting for Comet to come out with a tint shield designed specifically for this display. Using a normal tint shield sucks because it causes a double image "mirror" unless you bend down looking squarely at the display. Makes you feel like you're drunk when you look at it.
The Addams Family Thing LED Light Board Warm White Color 1 25.00 $ 25.00
Item total $ 25.00
Shipping total $ 8.00
Total $ 33.00
I have been watching this from the beginning. How much do you have in this at this point? Its starting to look like a pinball machine now.
Almost
$7000 by now. ouch
virtua PinBall
Cabinet $1,599.95
Classic Playfields
Mirrored backglass
269.00
Gold Playfield $1095
Transformer
$450
Jeff wetzel pcb light
$50
Mr.Pinball AU
Side Art
$350
Minystry of Pinball
THING Speaker Panel
Pinside Stretch
TAF Light Board Metal Board
$159.00
Flipper Fidelity
1 Item
Williams/Bally Complete Replacement Speaker System for WPC89 Machines
1 x Williams/Bally Complete Replacement Speaker System for WPC89 Machines
$144.95
Total (USD) $176.75
CPU Boards Wackybracky
$750
Wire Harness ramp Dimitri
$1000
Pinball Life
Spacer Spool for #8 Screws
SKU: PBL-300-0052-00
Qty: 10
$19.50
Spacer Spool for #8 Screws
PBL-300-0052-00
1
2" Yellow Mini Flipper Bat And Shaft Assembly
515-7191-06
1
Spade Bolt - Straight
231-5025-00
10
Williams/Bally #2-56 x 7/16" Microswitch screw and Locking Washer
4002-01105-07
28
#5-40 x 3/4" Pan Screw
4005-01003-12
12
#6-32 x 3/16" Pan Screw with Locking Washer
4006-01003-03
2
#6-32 x 3/8" Pan Screw With Locking Washer
4006-01005-06
22
#6-32 x 1/4" Pan Screw with Locking Washer
4006-01017-04
20
#6-32 x 3/8" Machine Screw With Built-In Washer
4006-01027-06
13
#8-32 x 3/8" Pan Screw With Locking Washer
4008-01017-06
16
8-32 x 3/8" Flat Head Machine Screw
4008-01041-06
6
#8-32 x 1/2" Pan Screw With Locking Washer
4008-01157-08
1
#10-32 x 1/2" Pan Screw With Locking Washer
4010-01006-08
3
Brass Lockdown Bar Adjuster Screw
4010-01062-10
3
#10-32 x 3/8" Black Socket Head Bolt
4010-01066-06
8et Head Screw
4010-01086-14
4
#5 x 5/8" Switch Stack Screw
4105-01019-10
8
#6 x 1/2" Wood Screw
4106-01033-08
54
#6 x 1" Sheet Metal/Wood Screw
4106-01115-16
33
#8 x 5/8" Slotted Hex Head Screw for New Style Leg Bracket
4108-01219-11
14
1/4-20 x 1-1/4" Carriage Bolt
231-5003-00
14x Hinge Bolt - Black
4322-01139-12b
2
$85.03
Magnet Coils X3 Williams/Bally Magnet Coil 20-9247 X3
$89.85
Flippers X3
1" Square Blue Rubber Pad With Adhesive Backing
SKU: 23-6629
$1.50
Full Flipper Assembly For Williams/Bally Machines From 02/1992 To 10/1998
$40 X4
$285.00
Action Pinball amusements
Screw - #8 x 3/8 Phillips Pan Head - Self-Tapping (P-PH-ST) Wood Thread (SMS)
Item# 4108-01004-06
$0.18 USD 3 $0.54 USD
Plastic Spacer - Black - #6 x 0.541 Inch
Item# 03-8022-1
$0.99 USD 5 $4.95 USD
Screw - #8-32 x 5/8 Phillips Pan Head (PPH) Machine Thread (MS) SEMS
Item# HWR02-100808
$0.15 USD 1 $0.15 USD
Coil - A-12158-1 (Bally)
Item# A-12158-1
$27.99 USD 1 $27.99 USD
Mini-Post w/ Washer - Metal - Wood Thread (Williams)
Item# 02-3905
$3.99 USD 1 $3.99 USD
Subtotal $37.62 USD
Shipping and handling $7.99 USD
Insurance $0.00 USD
Tax $0.00 USD
Total $45.61 USD
Payment $45.61 USD
Family Gold Target Switch setup
$98.89
Planetary Pinball
Bookcase Cover 03-8621 Addams Family Pending 1 $6.00 $6.00
reorder Addams Family Thing Hand NOT DECORATED Pending 1 $40.00 $40.00
reorder Addams Family Playfield Plastic Set 31-1664-COMP (41 Pc) - IPB Pending 1 $169.00 $169.00
Shipping: FedEx 2 Day: $53.48
Sales Tax: $0.00
Total: $268.48
Comet Pinball
5SMD Flashers, 25 Packs × 1
Wedge (906) / Cool White (Natural White)
$29.75
8SMD Tower Flashers × 1
Bayonet (89) / Cool White (Natural White)
$1.89
2SMD Bulbs, 100 Packs × 1
Wedge (555) / Sunlight / Frosted
$59.00
2SMD Bulbs, 100 Packs × 1
Bayonet (44/47) / Sunlight / Frosted
$59.00
$165.94 USD
Pinball spare parts AU
The Addams Family Cloud Topper - with decals
03-8643 AU$130.00
Ordered: 1
AU$130.00
Wire ball guide 3
12-6466-12 AU$1.00
Ordered: 1
AU$1.00
Grand Total AU$227.51
marco specialties grand total $1712.90
Lamp socket - Wedge base 50 $0.99 $49.50
Board - 5 sw & diode assy 1 $24.99 $24.99
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) kicker assy 1 $59.00 $59.00
Diode - 400 volts 1 amp XO-254 15 $0.16 $2.40
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase opto board set 1 $37.95 $37.95
Machine Screw 8-32 x 5/8 inch p-ph 4 $0.15 $0.60
Rubber ring - White 27/64 inch or 7/16 inch OD 4 $0.25 $1.00
Cable clamp holder 1/4" diameter 2 $0.29 $0.58
Sheet Metal Screw #6 x 5/8 inch p-ph t-25 2 $0.31 $0.62
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase lens 4 $4.95 $19.80
Machine Screw 8-32 x 1/2" p-ph-sems 1 $0.15 $0.15
Machine Screw 8-32 x 1/2" p-ph-s 1 $0.20 $0.20
Mini post - wood screw thread 1 $2.89 $2.89
Lamp #44 miniature - 10-pack 20 $1.95 $39.00
Flipper & shaft - Williams logo yellow 3 $5.25 $15.75
.156 inch 24 position male header 5 $2.50 $12.50
Wire ball guide rail 1-1/4" 12-6466-5 1 $1.99 $1.99
Guide - ball trough return runway 01-3569-1 1 $19.00 $19.00
Magnet bracket and pole piece assembly A-15257 3 $16.95 $11.95 $35.85
Machine Screw 1/4-20 x 1/2" p-ph-sems 4020-01003-08 2 $0.45 $0.90
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Hand bracket A-15303 1 $28.95 $28.95
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Motor Thing 14-7966 1 $299.00 $299.00
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Motor bracket 01-10561 1 $14.99 $14.99
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Magnet core 02-4603 1 $10.95 $10.95
Machine Screw 6-32 x 1/4" p-ph 4006-01005-04 2 $0.11 $0.22
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bracket - anti trap 01-10655 1 $22.99 $22.99
Machine Screw 1/4-20 x 1/2" p-ph-sems 4020-01003-08 1 $0.45 $0.45
Washer .205 x 1.00 x .055 inch 4700-00130-00 1 $0.29 $0.29
Machine Screw 10-32 x 5/8" sl-bnd-hd-brass 4010-01062-10 1 $0.39 $0.28 $0.28
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Hand cable H-15228 1 $12.00 $12.00
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Opto board A-15285 1 $29.95 $29.95
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Interrupter assy A-15310 1 $12.25 $12.25
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Thing lower box A-14703 1 $79.00 $79.00
Switch subminiature with bracket A-11680 2 $8.95 $17.90
Rubber ring - White 27/64 inch or 7/16 inch OD 38-2764 4 $0.25 $1.00
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Metal ball guide left 01-10591-L 1 $9.25 $9.25
Ball guide - long runway 01-10599 1 $18.00 $18.00
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) subway chute assy A-15070 1 $59.00 $59.00
Sheet Metal Screw #6 x 1-1/4 inch p-flh-a 4106-01042-20 15 $0.21 $3.15
Machine Screw 8-32 x 1/2" p-ph-s 4008-01157-08 1 $0.20 $0.20
Washer .187 x .625 x .059 inch #8 4700-00070-00 2 $0.25 $0.50
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase cable H-15227 1 $12.00 $0.00 $0.00
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Ramp main PR007 1 $219.00 $219.00
Locking nut - plastic 03-8363-1 1 $3.95 $3.95
Flange bearing 20-9610 2 $1.50 $3.00
Flange - plastic 03-8347 1 $10.95 $10.95
Shaft 1/4 x 2-9/64 inches 02-4418 1 $2.00 $0.00 $0.00
Adjusting screw Bally 02-4419 1 $15.50 $15.50
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase lens 03-8624 4 $3.95 $0.00 $0.00
Washer 0.125 x 0.281 x .032 inch 4700-00003-00 2 $0.19 $0.38
Rivet - 1/8 x 1/4 inches nickel 07-6688-20N 2 $0.15 $0.30
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Plastic 31-1664-25 1 $5.99 $5.99
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase top blue 03-8621 1 $6.95 $0.00 $0.00
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase frame blue 03-8622 1 $7.95 $7.95
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase Base Blue 03-8623 1 $14.99 $14.99
Sheet Metal Screw #6 x 3/8" p-ph 4106-01004-06 2 $0.15 $0.30
Cable clamp holder 1/4" diameter 03-7655-4 2 $0.29 $0.58
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase opto board set A-15017-18 1 $37.95 $0.00 $0.00
Sheet Metal Screw #6 x 3/8" p-ph 4106-01004-06 2 $0.15 $0.30
Nut 8-32 esn stop nut 4408-01119-00 5 $0.15 $0.75
Cable clamp holder 1/4" diameter 03-7655-4 2 $0.29 $0.58
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Electric Chair 03-8647 1 $27.95 $27.95
Mini-post 8-32 thread 02-4003 2 $2.35 $4.70
Rivet - 1/8 sft D x 3/16 sft L x 7/32 Head A 07-6688-18N 4 $0.25 $1.00
Roll pin 3/32" x 5/8" 20A-8716-2 20-8716-2 1 $0.20 $0.20
Sheet Metal Screw #8 x 7/8" p-th-type 25 4108-01031-14 2 $0.24 $0.48
Crank arm - large 03-8620 1 $7.95 $7.95
Crank arm - small 03-8619 1 $6.99 $6.99
Machine Screw 8-32 x 5/8 inch p-ph 4008-01005-10 4 $0.15 $0.60
Washer .187 x .437 x .053 inch #8 SAE 4700-00016-00 5 $0.10 $0.08 $0.40
Machine Screw 2-56 x 7/16 inch p-ph-s 4002-01105-07 4 $0.28 $1.12
Twin nut plate dual 2-56 screw 01-8240 2 $2.00 $4.00
Diode - 400 volts 1 amp XO-254 1N4004 2 $0.19 $0.38
Switch sub-mini assembly 5647-12693-08 2 $3.59 $7.18
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bracket switch 01-10399 2 $1.55 $3.10
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Motor bookcase 14-7969 1 $79.00 $79.00
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase bracket 01-10398 1 $49.00 $49.00
Post stud 8-32 x 2-1/16 inch 9/32 top 02-4424-2 4 $2.89 $11.56
Post - star double clear 1-1/16 inch tall 03-8247-13 1 $0.80 $0.80
Screw 6-32 x 1-3/16 inch spiral fin shank 237-5957-00 15 $0.99 $0.89 $13.35
Hex spacer 1/4" f-f 8-32 x 2.83" 02-4436-5 1 $2.80 $2.80
Post stud #8 x 2-1/16 inch wood screw 02-4426-2 8 $2.55 $20.40
Bumper post 8-32 stud 6-32 top stud 02-4843 1 $4.95 $0.00 $0.00
Mini post 8-32 x 1/2 inch machine 02-4177 1 $2.75 $2.75
Bumper post 8-32 bottom stud 02-4057 6 $5.95 $35.70
Bumper post 8-32 bottom 6-32 top studs 02-4056 1 $2.95 $2.95
Bumper post 8-32 stud dual ring 02-4423 3 $3.95 $11.85
Post stud 8-32 x 2-1/16 inches 6-32 top 02-4424-1 10 $2.75 $27.50
Post stud 8-32 x 2-3/8 inches 5/16 drive 02-4425-1 1 $2.79 $2.79
Post spacer #8 x 1-3/16" 02-4435 2 $1.95 $3.90
Post spacer #8 x 1 inch 02-4434 2 $3.99 $7.98
Hex spacer 1/4 inch f-f 8-32 x 1-7/16 inch 02-4436-15 2 $1.95 $1.69 $3.38
Hex spacer 1/4" f-f 8-32 x 1-1/2" 02-4436-7 1 $2.90 $2.90
Post - star blue transparent 1-1/16 inch 03-8319-10 2 $0.79 $1.58
Post - star double clear 1-1/16 inch tall 03-8247-13 12 $0.80 $9.60
Bumper post 10-32 bottom stud 02-4036-2 3 $5.95 $17.85
Mini-post 8-32 thread 02-4003 10 $2.35 $23.50
Post - spring 02-3409 1 $0.95 $0.95
T-Nut 8-32 9/32 inch barrel -1/2 inch base 4408-01118-02 30 $0.35 $0.15 $4.50
T-Nut 8-32 1/4" barrel - 19/32" base 4408-01118-00 30 $0.29 $0.25 $7.50
T-Nut 6-32 thread 1/4 inch barrel 1/2 inch 3 prong 4406-01118-00 10 $0.29 $0.20 $2.00
I couldn't begin to guess.
I'm hoping that most of the back box will be done in a month or two.
That leaves the bottom of the cabinet to do.
and about half the playfield left. The playfield plastics are already bought. should be in there somehwhere.
Quoted from Shredder565:I couldn't begin to guess.
I'm hoping that most of the back box will be done in a month or two.
That leaves the bottom of the cabinet to do.
and about half the playfield left. The playfield plastics are already bought. should be in there somehwhere.
after the boards and colordmd, you've hit most the big ticket items if you have got all the "unobtanium" parts and mechs and stuff taken care of, and the wire harness. But all the remaining little things still add up quickly.. also LEDs (or LED kit), OCD boards (if you want them), rubber kit, kickers and other coils/mechs/targets not purchased. If you still have boards to buy, I bet you easily hit 9k
Quoted from Mbecker:after the boards and colordmd, you've hit most the big ticket items if you have got all the "unobtanium" parts and mechs and stuff taken care of, and the wire harness. But all the remaining little things still add up quickly.. also LEDs (or LED kit), OCD boards (if you want them), rubber kit, kickers and other coils/mechs/targets not purchased. If you still have boards to buy, I bet you easily hit 9k
At 9k it would be worth every penny.
Quoted from arcademojo:At 9k it would be worth every penny.
especially if it works and lasts another 20 years
Its a labor of love. If he gets out of it for under 10K it was a great journey with a reward at the end.
Quoted from fiberdude120:Its a labor of love. If he gets out of it for under 10K it was a great journey with a reward at the end.
Agreed
Quoted from Shredder565:Almost
$7000 by now. ouch
I was downvoted 9 months ago (post 172) when I said you could build it for $12k when others were saying $20k minimum....
Quoted from loneacer:I was downvoted 9 months ago (post 172) when I said you could build it for $12k when others were saying $20k minimum....
I wouldn't be surprised if alot of people where just trying to scare off a new comer (probably after witnessing lots of other failed start ups) and trying to warn them not to waste money. Not hateful, just trying to be helpful in warning that it could be a money pit that never bears fruit.
So far, things have been extremely lucky so far.
I'll be shocked if in a year or two I can finally call this thing complete and turn it on and get it to work. and not have to call someone out in defeat to help trouble shoot it ;o)
By progress so far, looks like you’ll have something flipping within a year. Just make sure you double check what your soldering and connecting when the time comes.. shorting wires and potentially blowing a board could be painful.
1 Item
LED Replacement Display for Addams Family Pinball Machine
1 x LED Replacement Display for Addams Family Pinball Machine
$369.00
Subtotal $369.00
Shipping $16.97
Total (USD) $385.97
hopefully the last big ticket item out of the way, minus two or three boards..and the last order for a few weeks at least. THING board should be mostly done by now at least.
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