I have my Genesis set to play with quarters. Make it more nostalgic I think. Got $20 worth and when I run out I put $20 bill in there. Just for kicks to see how long it will take to get what I paid for the machine. Probably will take a while but it's all in fun anyways. Funding my next pin by playing the one I have one quarter at a time lol

Any news?

Man...i wish I had some parts to donate you, but I don't own an Addams family.

I do know that dc2010 has 2 of them, and may possibly have extra parts.
Have you created any wanted ads or trade ads for parts/pieces?

If you have a complete used wiring harness, you can always make up a new one.

that is a good point!

First of all, just found this thread. Quite the project you have started! I'm impressed. I would love to have a #TAF like you are making.

I am a little late to the game, so to speak. I wanted to chime in on the solder post. Definitely use 63/37 solder. It is easier to work with and creates more consistent joints. I switched to 63/37 and have never looked back.

FROM Wikibooks:

63/37 solder is made of 63% tin and 37% lead. It has a melting point of 183°C, slightly lower than the more common 60/40 blend. The primary advantage of this solder is not the lower melting point, but its eutectic property. Non-eutectic solders, like the 60/40 solder, have a semi-solid state between solid and liquid. If a joint is moved during this stage, it can result in what is called a cold solder joint. Eutectic solders, like the 63/37, do not have this semi-solid state and are thus considered easier to work with as it produces fewer bad joints. However, these solders typically cost more than their non-eutectic counterparts.

I would say that if you have the wire and the time, make a new harness.
A 30 year old crispy harness is not as good as a brand new one.

Chris at HEP makes them all the time due to terrible brittleness and corrosion inside the wire insulation.

Making the harness is not terribly difficult, Time consuming maybe but not difficult. The issue is having all the "correct color coded" wire on hand to make a harness. There are a lot of different color codes in a wire harness.

Chris has an impressive wire selection, but I think he sometimes has to settle with either a slightly different gauge or color.

Not that it is a huge deal. The game will work with different color wire but if you do not use the OEM color codes you cannot use the OEM manual to trace wires and diagnose issues down the road.

Absolutely.

Still got ya covered there when needed along with light board

Just a though, As you assemble the topside don’t forget to add rubbers where they go before things get installed in the way

Yes they are good.

By chance, was yours the one Regular Cars did? You’re semi-close to them/me.

Pinsound plus the pinsound shaker is awesome!

I like flipper fidelity speakers but any good speakers will work.

Pinball has very simple sounds.

Over the top speakers show very little improvement over just very good speakers.

However the pinsound turn key shaker is amazing.

I like flipper fidelity a lot.

I usually buy them.

Get the boardset in, ribbon cables, speakers, display and power supply.

Get that cabinet completely done.

Fire it up!

Its a great ferling to see the game come alive.

Pinsound, shaker and flipper fidelity speakers IMHO...

I think you need the one for 1/8” rivets. That one is for 1/16 rivets

thats the wrong one, pinball rivets are 1/8"

get this one:

https://www.erivet.com/product_detail.cfm?ID=ERIVET_4516830_40856738&itemtype=CLNCR&brand_cd=&view=list&sortBy=itemNbr_asc&itemNbr=HT%2D174

You might need a lower "head" die, they sell them there.

In a pinch just "cup" out a 3/8" sized head of a lag bolt with a dremel wheel and sand it smooth.

Great riveter. I put mine in my drill press and then “ press “ them in

Yep... I have one. I use it as a stand alone or in a drill press

Do you mean the spade bolt rivets for the flat rails?

Those are 1/8"

All of the other ones including switch stack rivets are all 1/8" in slightly varying lengths.

The Hanson ht-174 is the definitive hand riverter.

I have the pinrestore, tonka and the ht-174

The ht-174 gets the most use over all.

Its especially handy to tighten loose rivets in order to drill them out.

You can find all of the exact rivet sizes in the parts list on ipdb. Look for parts starting with 07-6688 and 07-6697. There are about eight distinct types used, all 1/8" diameter. The ipdb list is also helpful in figuring out which ones go where, since it's organized hierarchically to group the assemblies. If you're making a shopping list, I think you can skip all of the 1/2" and 9/16" (length) rivets if you're buying pre-assembled stand-up targets and leaf switches, since that's where all of those sizes end up (so your pre-assembled targets will come with the rivets already installed).

Or just get the pinrestore assortment, it's pretty handy.

If you're looking to save money on the speakers, you can roll your own with car speakers, and get the price down to probably $75 or less for the set. The after-market pinball speaker systems are the same types of drivers as in car speakers. The main value of using one of the pinball products is that they've done the legwork of picking drivers that fit physically and electrically and that sound good.

I would, since you are getting pinsound anyway.

Get the pinsound stereo cable too.

You can add the motion control and headphone station later.

You will also need the LEDOCD and GIOCD boards for the backbox.

You can also add these later after the game is built.

Will need the light door and all the metal brackets for that and the braiding and mesh for top air holes