I think what he's going to need are measurements for the pivot bolts and nuts. Paul doesn't drill those holes. I have an empty TAF cabinet I take take those off of, if need be. Not sure how you'd determine where those go otherwise.

You'll have to drill the sides of your cabinet for the bolts that hold the playfield in. You'll probably also have to drill holes in the top of the backbox for the cloud topper lights.

Whoops. Didn't see your response that said the same...

Construction paper works just as well and is quite a bit cheaper.

Hi Bryan! Since so many restorers have different ways to go about things, e.g., guys like Chris (HEP) make adjustments to the OEM location, there's no 'right' way to pre-drill them. Imagine if they were in the 'wrong' spot. Ugh. Not what I want for either party. I can provide those hole locations, also, if needed. They aren't always the same from machine to machine either, making it more difficult at times. LOL

For the backbox GI board hinge, some guys like to raise them up a bit, so it doesn't hit their ColorDMD screens.

He purchased a TAF cabinet, so the topper holes are already done. Same with WH2O, JD, etc.

I forgot to mention, we do GI boards, too. I have a TAF in stock, along with WH2O and TZ.

Some things I just haven't listed yet, as I don't feel right about adding more offerings, until we're caught up.

I'm going to pretend you didn't ask if it just sits on top.

This is what's normally used but you could use any kind of screw.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/237-5947-00

Completely understand but if Shredder doesn't have an old cabinet to go by, he'd have no clue where to begin.

I completely forgot that he would have to drill a couple holes.

Thanks!

An original cabinet measurement for the playfield pivots would definitely work.

The backbox hinge holes can easily be traced from an installed hinge.

Maybe set the hinges 1/8" out towards the edge from the factory location.

Ok. I bought my TAF cabinet from you in 2015 and I had to drill the topper holes in mine.

Totally with you on that. I was suggesting we both measure and compare notes.

Our product has evolved and improved a lot since then. I'm thankful this hobby has awesome people that provide really helpful feedback. These cabs are really quite complete now, aside from the holes we've discussed. There was a time we didn't even do internal blocking. Now, it's all there.

Theres a little bit to it.

You want it to sit flat on the lockdown receiver and not scrape the sides when lifted for maintenance.

You also want it to lift "square" with the cabinet.

Otherwise the rear will scrape when it goes down inside.

Its way easier to check the fit with a blank playfield.

You might want to remove a bunch of stuff off your playfield to make it easier to work on the cabinet.

You will know a lot more when you get into it.

I spent a week getting a beat up Doctor Who playfield and cabinet to behave lol.

Its one of those things that seems simple on paper, but really annoying when it goes wrong.

True.... but it would be easier to fit it while it’s slightly lighter vs complete and fully populated.

NoahFentz This is fantastic!!!!! Thanks!

I don’t know how everyone else does it, but I prefer to get the bottom 100% finished outside of the cabinet and then drop the game in and work on the top inside the cabinet. I don’t have a rotisserie though so that probably explains that.

YIKES !

That needs to go in the pinball horror pictures thread. Damn sorry to see it. At least it is widely available.

Bummer. Yeah the screen printed back glass is thicker than standard glass + translite film... so the standard trim doesn’t fit well

... but you already figured that out.

Sorry man... that’s a chunk of change.

You’ve got a great spirit!!!

Great example of tempered glass being susceptible to breaking when hit along its edges. You can hit the front with a hammer and likely not break it (don’t test this, just YouTube it), but a light tap on its edge and it explodes. Tempered glass is under high tensile stress along its edges.

Adding onto my tempered glass post to avoid any other smashes......
Don’t stand the playfield glass on a concrete floor. Sometimes just placing it lightly on its edge on the concrete will break it. It’s rare, but better safe than sorry. I always put mine on either a towel, or in a carpeted room.

For printed backglass you only need the lift trim at the bottom.

If its CPR glass, get rhe 1/8" black plastic lift trim.

Measure the glass for lengrh. Like 27 or 27.5"

Glass trim cones in I/8" or 3/16" size depending on the glass thickness.

If loose use friction tape to hold it.

A 2" long piece in the center and at each end of the lift trim.

The sides and top plastics were to hold the translite on. You don't need them, unless you go back to a translite and clear glass.

Don't use metal tools on the glass it will explode.

I use wood blocks and a plastic hammer.

https://www.pinballlife.com/backglass-lift-channel-for-williams-system-11.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/backglass-top-trim-for-williams-system-11.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/backglass-side-trim-for-williams-system-11.html

Cosmetically the plastic adds a "framed" look, but i honestly think that it subtracts from the art.

Earlier games with inked glass only use a metal lift channel.

That said, TAF came with a translite and black trim all around.

So for a "pure" look, i guess people put trim on printed glass though its not needed.

My personal preference is to only use the bottom lift channel. I think it looks better, but maybe thats just me.

On my funhouse CPR glass, the cabinet is blue. I thought the black frame looked out of place.

On my Diner CPR glass, the trim looked ok but removing the trim made tbe glass look bigger and more impressive.

Ya, I would recommend steel leg plates or your art will buckle...Sorry about that glass man, thats a bad day...

My VirtuaPin cabinet came with those, but I think they were an add-on at the time.

Dont put the legs on without these:

https://www.pinballlife.com/metal-cabinet-protectors-set-of-4.html

Once they are on and fit properly, cut through the decal around them with a single edge razor blade or xacto knife.

You dont cut deep, just thru the decal.

Use tightened leg bolts to install and align them. They should not rest on the bolts, but be slightly above them.

If you strip the little screws out, put a piece of bamboo skewer or toothpick with a little titebond 3 in the hole and go again.

Put a drop of oil on the leg bolts when installing for the first time, DONT cross thread them.

Test the bolts before installing plates or legs. Run them thru a couple times.

I use a 8" hand ratchet wrench with a 5/8" socket for the first time. I hand set the bolts to the right torque, basically 1/4 to 1/2 turn after the bolt stops, you dont want to hear wood cracking or splitting too much.

Tighten again in a week or 2.

Powered impact wrenches tend to cross thread and strip.

The playfield mounts?

2 carriage bolts with washers
2 pivot nuts
Left and right playfield holder/brackets

2 front "Z" hangers

Drill tbe holes in the right place with the right drill bit.

Get hole locations from Bryan Kelly

I wouldnt necessarily get that rivet tool.

The hanson manual one, the tonka one and the pinrestore press are the ones i use.

I mostly use the Hanson one:

https://www.erivet.com/product_detail.cfm?itemNbr=HT-174

Its helpful to chuck a huge allen wrench in a vise, to use the bottom to hammer against as a dog or dolly.

I found a rusty 3/4" one at the flea market, works pretty good.

But any chunk of squarish metal that fits inside ramps will work.

A 6" piece of 3/4" or 1" steel bar stock is ideal.

That’s the one I use.

I find i have most control with the hanson hand clincher.

But it takes 2 people to hold a ramp for flaps.

This is where the tonka and press come in.

The tonka is a little weird to use but after a couple tries it works very well. Its especually good for tight places.

I sent you a PM 3 months ago "Saw your thread on the scratch build Addams. I have my playfield on a rotisserie while I restore the machine, if you need a picture of anything feel free to ask or text." Could have save you a lot of question posting. Playfield is now in the game but I do have a rivet press your free to use. I'm only 35 minutes from Hanover.

PRESS (resized).jpeg

Haven’t used on the ramp flaps but did replace some targets and worked well.

The problem is getting it to fit in where you want to use it.

A lot of areas are tight. In fact the $300 rivet press won't work over half the time.

The Hanson always works but, you have to back it up with a metal post or anvil or someting not wooden.

This is where the tonka comes in.

No need for a press, anvil or backer post.

I have all 3 setups but use the Hanson the most.

Often i put a head die in my vise as a backer.

I find that a 1" square post chucked into my vise is very handy.

Use for rivets and pounding out ball dents in scoop assemblies.

When i lived in my apartment i used the wrought iron fence railing a lot!