Hanover, NJ
Quoted from fiberdude120:They fit just fine or the board is wrong.[quoted image]
I meant, the socket for the 44 doesn't look like it'd fit in the black lamp socket. it looks like a different connection.
(Topic ID: 257696)
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Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
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Quoted from Shredder565:I meant, the socket for the 44 doesn't look like it'd fit in the black lamp socket. it looks like a different connection.
It shouldn't be is what I meant. This is a picture of mine.
thumbnail-5 (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:they looked like two different connections. I didn't think they'd fit.
Put a wedge socket there.
I just pulled a 44 bulb out of it's metal socket and tried to fit it in the black one. and no go. either I'm twisting it in wrong, or it just won't fit. the socket itself fits into the board just fine. it's the light that has trouble fitting.
all boards now secure. just trying to find the placement of the other 44s next.
Quoted from Shredder565:I just pulled a 44 bulb out of it's metal socket and tried to fit it in the black one. and no go. either I'm twisting it in wrong, or it just won't fit. the socket itself fits into the board just fine. it's the light that has trouble fitting.
all boards now secure. just trying to find the placement of the other 44s next.
Use a 555 bulb in its twist socket in the hole.
It wont fit? Or the twist socket wont fit in the pcb hole?
Im confused.
The pcbs only have twist sockets in them.
Edmonton, AB
Quoted from pinballinreno:Use a 555 bulb in its twist socket in the hole.
It wont fit? Or the twist socket wont fit in the pcb hole?
Im confused.
The pcbs only have twist sockets in them.
The 555 bulb in it's twist socket will not fit. correct.
The 44 bulb in the socket for the smaller black connector will not go in that black socket. it only fits in the metal one. The black socket itself fits just fine. only the larger black socket for the 555 will not fit. and the manual states a 44 bulb should go in those two spots.
Quoted from Shredder565:I just pulled a 44 bulb out of it's metal socket and tried to fit it in the black one. and no go. either I'm twisting it in wrong, or it just won't fit. the socket itself fits into the board just fine. it's the light that has trouble fitting.
all boards now secure. just trying to find the placement of the other 44s next.
It should be the same as all the other lamps in twist sockets that you mounted.
Quoted from Shredder565:The 555 bulb in it's twist socket will not fit. correct.
The 44 bulb in the socket for the smaller black connector will not go in that black socket. it only fits in the metal one. The black socket itself fits just fine. only the larger black socket for the 555 will not fit. and the manual states a 44 bulb should go in those two spots.
Those two spots are not for a 44 bulb... they are for a 555 bulb. Is the PCB mis-aligned so the bulb is actually hitting wood?
Did you by chance order a 906 wedge socket. ?
The 555 should fit unless you have the wrong wedge socket.
Quoted from Shredder565:The 555 bulb in it's twist socket will not fit. correct.
The 44 bulb in the socket for the smaller black connector will not go in that black socket. it only fits in the metal one. The black socket itself fits just fine. only the larger black socket for the 555 will not fit. and the manual states a 44 bulb should go in those two spots.
The larger twist socket is for a 12v #906 bulb or 5led flasher.
#44 insert bulbs in their sockets generally fit to the side of a pcb and are bent at an angle or nearly flattened and peek underneath.
Since you have aftermarket boards im not clear on the differences.
But post 1102 doesnt show a 44 socket there.
Put in a small twist socket snd 555 bulb.
Manuals are often slightly wrong.
Either way, what you have shown looks incorrect.
Quoted from Ricochet:Those two spots are not for a 44 bulb... they are for a 555 bulb. Is the PCB mis-aligned so the bulb is actually hitting wood?
Yep, is the bulb hitting wood?
Pcb might be misaligned.
Quoted from transprtr4u:The 555 should fit unless you have the wrong wedge socket.
I took out the 44 and put in two 555's that went in ok.
it was the larger of the two sockets, that didn't fit.
Quoted from Shredder565:I took out the 44 and put in two 555's that went in ok.
it was the larger of the two sockets, that didn't fit.
That would be correct.
The larger sockets are for #906 or 5 led flashers. You will find them sometimes under domed flashers or on ramps.
There are only ever a couple of them in the game.
The 5 led flashers are polarized.
If they dont light when tested, turn them around.
$906 and #555 bulbs have the exact same wedge base but they are not interchangable in the game.
#555 is 6.3v
#906 is 12v
This is one of my favorite threads going. The audacity to tackle something of this magnitude with very little prior experience, showing the mistakes along the way, I'm really enjoying it. I'm rooting for you. Keep it up!
Quoted from fiberdude120:Shredder565 if you are thinking of mods as you build I just installed a light back panel just like the one Mikespinball did in his build. It is a must IMO due to it being dark at the back.
[quoted image]
I was toying around with LED's around the cloud topper, but that wasn't on the original machine. and I was also toying around with the toy fester. That seems like an obvious addition, but I guess they figured that most would go missing over time if they thought of it themselves.
Quoted from Shredso:This is one of my favorite threads going. The audacity to tackle something of this magnitude with very little prior experience, showing the mistakes along the way, I'm really enjoying it. I'm rooting for you. Keep it up!
there's almost nothing you can't figure out with a little patience, and LOTS of expert help 
.
the fact that there is also alot of resources out there doesn't hurt either .
I knew If I could do R2 from scratch, I SHOULD be able to get lucky with this. so far, not so bad .
Hey 565
I have a few more TAF guide bending pics/measurements on my OneDrive. https://tinyurl.com/uvz97tz
Sketches and measurements for A-15240, A-15241, A-15243, A-15250, A-15251, A-15374, 01-10427, 01-10654 courtesy of Greg Bitz. My 2-D sheet metal CAD's were based upon these. Thanks again, Greg.
Wally
Quoted from wallybgood:Hey 565
I have a few more TAF guide bending pics/measurements on my OneDrive. https://tinyurl.com/uvz97tz
Sketches and measurements for A-15240, A-15241, A-15243, A-15250, A-15251, A-15374, 01-10427, 01-10654 courtesy of Greg Bitz. My 2-D sheet metal CAD's were based upon these. Thanks again, Greg.
Wally
Just looking at the photos of this process gives me a headache. Holy smokes that must have been a crazy amount of work doing this all from scratch not to mention the amount of skill involved for the fabricator to create all of these parts.
Gord
Quoted from wallybgood:Hey 565
I have a few more TAF guide bending pics/measurements on my OneDrive. https://tinyurl.com/uvz97tz
Sketches and measurements for A-15240, A-15241, A-15243, A-15250, A-15251, A-15374, 01-10427, 01-10654 courtesy of Greg Bitz. My 2-D sheet metal CAD's were based upon these. Thanks again, Greg.
Wally
That is awesome... The time and skill to put all that together is great, nice work!
hoping for a good update on an un obtanium order possibly secured in the next few weeks, barring any covid shipping delays.
Sometime late June, I will order the back box light board and the steel plate that goes with it.
In July, I will focus on getting the remaining boards needed and the Color DMD.
And then I guess I will follow the manual and get what i am still missing on the bottom of the playfield.
Quoted from GRB1959:Just looking at the photos of this process gives me a headache. Holy smokes that must have been a crazy amount of work doing this all from scratch not to mention the amount of skill involved for the fabricator to create all of these parts.
Gord
Hey Gord
Thanks.
It is not real difficult, just time consuming.
I had to figure out the process back in 2012 when scratch building MM. The first thing is to find someone with the pin who is willing to let you disassemble their game to take measurements of the guides/brackets that are NLA. Sometimes you get lucky and someone is in the middle of a restore and is willing to take pics and measurements.
You then have to take measurements and convert the 3-D object into a 2-D flat sheet metal drawing. It's not too bad but you always have to keep in mind that as metal is bent, the outer material stretches. It is usually easiest to measure outer dimensions on parts so you have to adjust for the metal thickness. The sketches then must be converted into CAD dwgs. I share my drawings with whoever is building one for themselves.
Then you have to find someone to laser cut or water jet cut. When I did the MM this was a major problem since many of these companies just didn't want to mess around with small jobs. One of my local pinball pals offered to cut many of my parts over the years at his fab facility. I know that this was a pain in the neck for him to do and I really appreciate it. (HeMan40) Recently this has become a non-issue for those without friends that have this capability with the advent of companies like Sendcutsend who do laser cutting on small jobs. All they need is the drawing and then BOOM it arrives in the mail.
After laser cutting you have to decide how to bend. I use a couple of small brakes. One vise mounted. They each have limitations. Radii are hand bent with clamps and cylinders with different dia. Sometimes with complex objects it is best to experiment on cardboard so that the bending sequence is correct. Then once in a while after fit testing it is necessary to make corrections to the original drawings and start over. On the pins that I've built (MM, AFM, SS, MB, CC, TAF/IJ in progress) I try to take pics of the complex bends and place on my OneDrive.
Wally
Pinville
I was also lucky to have people willing to let me take measurements from their games. As Wally said in the good old days circa 2011-12 there were no remakes of popular games that allowed for remade parts to be available.
The way I did it was just trace the inner side of each guide making sure to trace around the bent tabs (including holes) also taking note of whether tabs were on the top or bottom of the piece. Plenty of ref. photos also taken.
On complex folds I would also lay the guide on a side, referenced to the initial trace to get an idea of different heights etc. Measurements also noted on each tracing.
This was done to make it as fast as possible to get the game back together asap for the donor.
My games would not have existed without the generosity of these very trusting mates.
AFM,MM,HS2 and now Addams.
how the hell am I supposed to find the few locations I havn't been when I have 99.2 % and everything else done including the compendium?
ugh
Monday, going to try and figure out the rest of the ball guides and their bending ways. and figure out how i'm going to tackle the rest of the lights.
103551368_10158082401025211_3475999436734041751_n (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:does anyone have any more diagrams like this that wally provided? complete with numbers?
they where the most helpful in completing the bends.[quoted image]
Hey 565
Had a little time over the weekend and uploaded more pics to my OneDrive https://tinyurl.com/uvz97tz Should help with your bending. These are some examples. (Grid lines have 1/4 inch spacing)
Wally
100_3024 (resized).JPGimg336 (resized).jpgthank you kind sir.
I know things got a b it confusing with the light info. what brackets do I need to attach the 555's to the board (the ones that don't have a PCB to attach too?)
Quoted from Shredder565:thank you kind sir.
I know things got a b it confusing with the light info. what brackets do I need to attach the 555's to the board (the ones that don't have a PCB to attach too?)
these:
on the order list . will wait a week or two to see if anything else 'out of print' becomes available before placing order.
one more guard rail in. now to figure out where the rest go.
I still have yet to bend that other end piece into more of a circle.
I just realized these are extra pieces with the order. maybe I got some of another persons by mistake?
102966478_10158094169815211_5433073005646748288_n (resized).jpg103642418_10158094169770211_510589335290310928_n (resized).jpg
Quoted from Shredder565:one more guard rail in. now to figure out where the rest go.
I still have yet to bend that other end piece into more of a circle.
I just realized these are extra pieces with the order. maybe I got some of another persons by mistake?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Look like funhouse side art.
Quoted from Shredder565:Looks more like pieces to a bridge to me.
This:
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/funhouse-pinball-mirror-bladez-bally-williams
Or a bridge lol
Quoted from pinballinreno:Look like funhouse side art.
I can see that, scaffolding of the roller coaster. Judging by the elaborate holes, I doubt it's pinball related. Tell the guy you got something extra, now I need to know what it is!
funhouser-flipper-side-art-pinball-cabinet-decals-artwork (resized).jpgI'm rather curious myself. I just sent them an email. maybe I got someone elses order part by mistake.
well, that was fast. guess it'll remain a mystery heh.
>>
Thank you for letting us know! I apologize for the inconvenience. You can recycle those parts or use them if you have a purpose.
Thank you!
Mel>>
Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:Looks like parts to the frame of a model of a monster truck, actually.
I kind of thought the bottom pieces looked like propellers...shortened though they where.
another order. trying to focus on the under side of the playfield and getting that finished.
Lamp socket - Wedge base 50 $0.99 $49.50
Board - 5 sw & diode assy 1 $24.99 $24.99
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) kicker assy 1 $59.00 $59.00
ticking off pieces one by one in the manual..
I feel like I'm watching someone change a tire in the middle of the interstate. You know he's going to get flattened by an 18-wheeler eventually, but you watch with morbid fascination rooting for him to get as far as possible before that happens. 
Rooting for ya though. It's an extremely entertaining thread to follow.
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