Pretty sure its a 8-32 stud plate...
A-12258-2 8-32 stud plt assy

studplate (resized).png

Some posts have a little bracket on the bottom to screw into the side rail, its painted black

8-32
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-12258-3

6-32
https://www.pinballlife.com/metal-hex-spacer-mounting-bracket.html

Then they are attached with #6 or #8 black truss head screws.

Someone should have a picture.

I just looked at mine and they have the plate on the bottom that screws down on the side rail.

hard to see but it has two screws at the bottom. As you can see mine has to be adjusted so the ramp and hole will line up.

thumbnail-2 (resized).jpg

Nice.

The audio boards can be hard to get.

But theres always pinsound in a pinch.

I can’t believe it but this thread is motivating me to attempt this myself. I’ll likely CNC the cabinet myself... Really the only thing that is a huge demotivator is the wiring... it’s not that it can’t be done... I’m just not interested in doing it...I would want it exact to OEM.

I appreciate Shredder565 ‘s zeal... it’s contagious

I also cannot believe you'd attempt something like this so soon after the completion of your last monumental project. Ambition level 100.

Right now ...it’s a thought. I got the CNC lined up ... Need to look at what other tools I need.

Nice job on the first of many guides to be bent! Right end needs to have a little radius.
Wally

100_2609 (resized).JPG

100_2611 (resized).JPG

Local Pinsider with a CNC????!!! interesting.....

Ya don't need to have all tools and toys... ya just need to have the friends that have them

The mechs hold the flippers in

The flipper pawls clamp onto the flipper shafts.

The return spring at the end of the pawl hooks into the small hole above the EOS switch mount

If you have a lot of diodes or resistors to bend I find these useful. There is also one on Thingiverse if you have access to a 3d printer. It helps make them a lot more uniform. Also, I think you may have them on the wrong side of the board. Edit: Maybe you have it correct, I guess it doesn't matter as long as it's facing the correct direction. I would think it would go where the screening is.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sparkfun-electronics/TOL-13114/1568-1132-ND/5623215?utm_adgroup=Specialized%20Tools&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping_Product_Tools_NEW&utm_term=&utm_content=Specialized%20Tools&gclid=CjwKCAjwh472BRAGEiwAvHVfGiGIghsKgn1qMzu_Kxhd_xlNTJQFLw044eHH64SpPV4fpXypjCJGfhoCsygQAvD_BwE

Actually diodes appear correct, at least against the reference ones posted on the last page. I would also expect them on the same side as the drawing for them, but perhaps not?

Uniform diode bends are pretty, that’s a good reccomendation.

Note that you need to clip the ‘key’ pins off the boards, where the white arrows point to. Your connectors will have a plugged hole for that pin (once you install it) to keep things clear as to which connector goes to which board.

Also hard to tell but sone of those solder gloves are questionable to my eye. Make sure you apply enough heat to the legs of the diodes so the solder works to both the board and the legs. The solder makes a kind of volcano shape when correct, usually.. vs a large rounded glob

Your soldering is ok.

Are you using 63/37 solder?

Its better and slightly lower temp than 60/40.

Its also flows easier and sets faster.

Maybe a dab of flux and reheat a couple weak and cold joints.

The components are on the correct side, the lamp side.

The triangle is for the missing pin.

When you make the connector you will put a little blocking piece in that hole to keep from installing the connector backwards.

Familiarize yourself with the schematcs.

The power and ground are listed there.

You will need this skill/knowledge coming up when you make the harnesses.

Familiarize yourself with the schematcs.
Familiarize yourself with the schematcs.
Familiarize yourself with the schematcs.
Familiarize yourself with the schematcs.
Familiarize yourself with the schematcs.

... and the parts list.

Sorry to sound preachy but you should spend a sh*t ton of time with your nose in the books on this. Since you don't have a machine to reference... its going to be your only other reference material that describes how things are connected. Pictures are great but they only get you so far. Having a solid grasp of how things are wired... is going to be necessary... especially once you start connecting things up and really populating the underside of that playfield.

Hey 565
Looks like you soldered the header on the wrong side of the board. Check out Steve's pics on post 939. Will still work but I believe that Williams soldered them in from the other side for a little bit more stability.
Wally

Most definitely my favorite thread

Good catch.

The cable clips should be visable on the outside if this header has them...

Long pins up, short pins down...

You have the right direction but black plastic should be on the diode side. Check out the views of this pcb for reference https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5768-12349-00
Also, Chris H (HEP) is restoring two TAFs in his thread right now. Should be good to follow https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/139

Wally

Soldering quality is a combination of experience, equipment and materials.

- What kind of solder are you using?
- What kind of soldering iron are you using... is it temperature regulated or not?
- Keep your tip cleaned and tinned.
- Before applying solder you need to heat up the point that you will be applying the solder.
- Don't apply the solder to the tip of the iron but to the pad and lead on the PCB.

It looks like your solder is may be bubbling too much... which could mean you've got some less than ideal solder.

Much better, now you can plug on a connector or remove a bulb from it if necessary, while its mounted.

Looking at the traces probably pins 1 and 5 are power and ground.

Cut off the pin #4 (marked by the triangle) that has no trace to it.

Your soldering is good enough and will improve.

Quality solder makes a big difference (especially the quality of its rosin)... consider this brand:
https://www.amazon.com/KESTER-SOLDER-32117-24-6040-0027-Diameter/dp/B00068IJPO/ref=sr_1_2

Also... that link does not point to a 300W iron. It points to a 40W/80W station. The only 300W Weller I see is the big 'ol Weller trigger handled gun... that would not be the correct tool for the job.

Im using this solder and its very good, I stopped using 60/40 years ago and will never go back:

https://www.amazon.com/MAIYUM-63-37-Solder-Electrical-Soldering/dp/B075WB98FJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

I have that weller 40w station you listed its very good and will last years, its in my tool box.

But I encourage you to get the little air/power/solder station I listed above for the workbench.

I use one like it all the time.

As long as its not the soldering iron that looks like a handgun... with a trigger. You are probably ok. That 40/80W station is fine for what you need.

I am terrible at soldering but have done a bit of it. On a whim I picked up a soldering helping hands and while I thought it was a waste at the time I actually use it quite a bit to hold things in place while I hold the iron and solder. I use it to prime the wire tips and keep things where they need to be. It may be a newb tool but it has helped.

https://www.amazon.com/ProsKit-900-015-Helping-Hands-Soldering/dp/B002PIA6Z4/ref=sr_1_5

any of the 63-37 solders.

.031 diameter is thin and controllable, easy to melt, low heat. Most people use it.

Lower heat saves your boards and it nice if you have to desolder and resolder.

.050 diameter gives you a little more solder but also holds more heat.

I use the .031 and just shove more on when I need to.

Not sure what brand they are distributing. I've always used Kester ... so I can't comment. It's probably fine. 60/40 blend... I would keep the diameter between .05x and .03x. I prefer it on the lighter gauge ... but that's just my preference.

Ive been using silicone finger tips for awhile now and find them particularly useful when doing close work.

Wires get too hot to hold and you end up doing a poor job.

something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Protectors-HotGlue-Adhesives-Scrapbooking/dp/B07QQMJVWF/ref=sr_1_7

I ordered them from PSPA.

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/a-17838-1.html

It took a while for them to get here .

It never ends... until you are playing it. I ended up with a tackle box full of all the common stuff.. just stocked up on all of it when I did my restoration. You will nickel and dime yourself to death otherwise. When you comb through the parts list and look at all the different fasteners its mind boggling. Spend some time and stock up on the high volume commonly used items.

6 ro 8 weeks shipping from Wayne right now.

The weller gun type soldering ‘iron’ is great though for coil lugs and larger items outside of board work. I love mine

I use this stuff for PCB work. Flows really nicely and I've never needed flux with it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AYJ0B7Y

Here is my station and leaded in one pic

Great for pcb work

IMG_20200520_134411 (resized).jpg

I would have to agree with Mbecker...That gun is for larger things that require more heat, but totally awesome for which it was designed for...Shred, A finer tip, and a variable temp station would really clean up those joints, Jenn would highly recommend the Weller,(around 100.00) around 700 degrees, for that, with a very fine lead/rosin solder...That Eco stuff won't give you the melt and shine of a job well done.

3.3% flu,
Did it come from China?