Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992Quoted from Mbecker:The metal around each light hole faces down and makes contact with the plastic light socket holder contacts when you turn it a quarter turn to ‘screw’ it onto the pcb.
Here is a pic for reference.
75E79704-1CEB-423D-9C77-D0775B5B5533 (resized).jpeg
I don't remember if you mentioned this, but how much did it cost (all told) for your metal cuts from SendCutSend? I'm on the fence as to whether to try them out or go with Pololu again for a homebrew pin.
Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:I don't remember if you mentioned this, but how much did it cost (all told) for your metal cuts from SendCutSend? I'm on the fence as to whether to try them out or go with Pololu again for a homebrew pin.
I think it was around $50's.
Quoted from Shredder565:I think it was around $50's.
Shipped?
Very good deal either way. Definitely leaning towards them for current project.
Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:Shipped?
Very good deal either way. Definitely leaning towards them for current project.
yep, I was surprised it was so cheap myself.
My order from spare parts australia shipped. soon i'll havea topper and a 3" guard rail.
Thanks to the image posted above, I now know where all the pcb boards go.
And I have some other good news too once it's secured 
. all in all, the only other thing that could surprise me right now is hearing that my virtuapin cabinet shipped ;o).
Quoted from bssbllr:Here is a pic for reference.
[quoted image]
thank you, that's what I was looking for.
do I need to drill holes inthe mansion pcb for the screws?
Quoted from Ricochet:yes... but you could find an alternative as long as the height is correct and it will fit a #6 screw. The nice thing about the original part is that it clips into the PCB and stays there so you can pre-build it or remove it from the play field without the spacers falling off. The holes in your PCBs are a bit larger than the #6 screw to accommodate for the clip on the standoff.
I'll start looking around.
which one of these suckers looks right for the boards? I'm assuming I need at least 5 each.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=.156+headers
I am not sure if this is the other part I need to solder on or not.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1N4004
Quoted from Shredder565:I'll start looking around.
which one of these suckers looks right for the boards? I'm assuming I need at least 5 each.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=.156+headers
I am not sure if this is the other part I need to solder on or not.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1N4004
Diode looks fine. You probably will need some for switches if they don’t come on them - I’d order Extra. Other sites may be better for common electronic items like header pins and diodes.
I believe the boards use the non-locking style headers. You could install whatever you want though, as long as you get the correct connector for it. Using the Hi-res pictures available From other restores / builds should tell you. You don’t need 5 each, you just need either the correct Pin numbers for each or buy bulk length and clip to size for each board.
Use Mouser/Digikey/Jameco for common electronic devices(diodes, resistors, etc). Use the manual to find the specs, then order accordingly. In some cases, the replacement part is not completely clear or has been replaced with something better(MOSFETs and diodes come to mind). Ask around for those. Otherwise, it should be fairly straight forward.
Quoted from Shredder565:thank you, that's what I was looking for.
do I need to drill holes inthe mansion pcb for the screws?
If there is no holes for the screws the answer is yes. Does the playfield have predrilled holes? Here is a pic from a post earlier that shows the clips of the spacers in the mounting holes.
5251B92C-716B-4EE9-91C4-297AD0FB63B7 (resized).jpeg
Thanks for pic dankme
OK, yeah, that was the only one that did not have holes on... was wondering if it was OK to drill some
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, yeah, that was the only one that did not have holes on... was wondering if it was OK to drill some
Sorry I have had no experience drilling on pcb but there has to be some literature on it somewhere.
Do it in a very well-ventilated area, preferably outside, and wear a good mask. PCB cutting and drilling produces some nasty airborne substances.
Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:Do it in a very well-ventilated area, preferably outside, and wear a good mask. PCB cutting and drilling produces some nasty airborne substances.
found out when doing 3P0
12107864_10153589870310211_7275521945609168334_n (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:OK, yeah, that was the only one that did not have holes on... was wondering if it was OK to drill some
You can drill it with a regular drill bit just make sure you don't drill through a trace. Put a sacrificial piece of wood behind it and drill away. My set had the same missing holes and there was one board that had not had the contacts tinned. Small issues to fix but you'll definitely want to address them.
alright... I have one big order from marco with afew more book case parts...some lamps...the board stands, and a few other parts. just not sure on which one of these I can get... I forgot that you could buy a string of them and cut them to do the board.. I did that long ago for R2.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=.156+headers
I was thinking a few of these suckers and just cut 'em
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CM15624
And I also need to know the sockets that go into the lamps themselves. the black circular items that attach to the boards. I'll get those while i'm at it too...
if I ignored anything, or forgot something, LMK
Quoted from Walamab:You can drill it with a regular drill bit just make sure you don't drill through a trace
OK, that was my understanding on the less important boards I've tried that on. But for something a bit rarer, I didn't want to risk damaging it and trying it anyway.
-edit I also looked at the manual and couldn't quite find any lamp board schematics.
one more order from marco.
Diode - 400 volts 1 amp XO-254 15 $0.16 $2.40
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase opto board set 1 $37.95 $37.95
Machine Screw 8-32 x 5/8 inch p-ph 4 $0.15 $0.60
Rubber ring - White 27/64 inch or 7/16 inch OD 4 $0.25 $1.00
Cable clamp holder 1/4" diameter 2 $0.29 $0.58
Sheet Metal Screw #6 x 5/8 inch p-ph t-25 2 $0.31 $0.62
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase lens 4 $4.95 $19.80
Machine Screw 8-32 x 1/2" p-ph-sems 1 $0.15 $0.15
Machine Screw 8-32 x 1/2" p-ph-s 1 $0.20 $0.20
Mini post - wood screw thread 1 $2.89 $2.89
Lamp #44 miniature - 10-pack 20 $1.95 $39.00
Flipper & shaft - Williams logo yellow 3 $5.25 $15.75
.156 inch 24 position male header 5 $2.50 $12.50
Quoted from Shredder565:And I also need to know the sockets that go into the lamps themselves. the black circular items that attach to the boards. I'll get those while i'm at it too...
Quoted from Passave:Those black circular things are lamp holders.
Wedge lamp socket. 
yep, that much I figured out . just wasn't sure the correct name/term to search for .
I saw an LED version of what I was looking for, but I want the original cathode look ;o)
Quoted from Shredder565:one more order from marco.
Diode - 400 volts 1 amp XO-254 15 $0.16 $2.40
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase opto board set 1 $37.95 $37.95
Machine Screw 8-32 x 5/8 inch p-ph 4 $0.15 $0.60
Rubber ring - White 27/64 inch or 7/16 inch OD 4 $0.25 $1.00
Cable clamp holder 1/4" diameter 2 $0.29 $0.58
Sheet Metal Screw #6 x 5/8 inch p-ph t-25 2 $0.31 $0.62
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase lens 4 $4.95 $19.80
Machine Screw 8-32 x 1/2" p-ph-sems 1 $0.15 $0.15
Machine Screw 8-32 x 1/2" p-ph-s 1 $0.20 $0.20
Mini post - wood screw thread 1 $2.89 $2.89
Lamp #44 miniature - 10-pack 20 $1.95 $39.00
Flipper & shaft - Williams logo yellow 3 $5.25 $15.75
.156 inch 24 position male header 5 $2.50 $12.50
Dont put #44 lamps in the game or on the light boards.
They melt inserts and warp plastics.
Get 2smd frosted sunlight LEDS in #555 wedge base and #44 bayonet base from cometpinball.com
When installed look exactly like #44 bulbs.
Use them for everything.
Get 100-150 of each to start and get the 25 pak 5smd towers for the #906 bulbs. A few 8smd towers for the #89 bulbs.
You also will need the coin door/cabinet interconnect board for the cabinet.
This is often overlooked when shopping for PC boards.
You will also need the LEDOCD board for the LEDS, its important, you can install it at the end.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Dont put #44 lamps in the game or on the light boards.
They melt inserts and warp plastics.
Get 2smd frosted sunlight LEDS in #555 wedge base and #44 bayonet base from cometpinball.com
When installed look exactly like #44 bulbs.
Use them for everything.
Get 100-150 of each to start and get the 25 pak 5smd towers for the #906 bulbs. A few 8smd towers for the #89 bulbs.
You also will need the coin door/cabinet interconnect board for the cabinet.
This is often overlooked when shopping for PC baords.
hmm, that's what was listed in the manual....good to know.
I'll look up the info. thanks to ye old government stimulus check finally arriving, I have a tad more leeway.
Quoted from Shredder565:hmm, that's what was listed in the manual....good to know.
I'll look up the info. thanks to ye old government stimulus check finally arriving, I have a tad more leeway.
Yes, #44 bulbs were the standard 30 years ago. We always traded them out for #47 bulbs to not kill all the plastic in the game and blow off the pins on the pc boards with high current.
People have never really seen a game with #44 bulbs (nearly all were traded out immediately), they are super bright! #47 bulbs are very dim in comparison but, run at half the power and brightness and dont get as hot.
2smd frosted bulbs are the perfect solution as they look like the original #44 bulbs without the heat and power draw.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Get 100-150 of each to start and get the 25 pak 5smd towers for the #906 bulbs. A few 8smd towers for the #89 bulbs.
You will also need the LEDOCD board for the LEDS, its important, you can install it at the end.
OK, I found the first two bulbs.. for the above..which one of these?
https://www.cometpinball.com/search?q=5smd+
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, I found the first two bulbs.. for the above..which one of these?
https://www.cometpinball.com/search?q=5smd+
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/2smd-bulbs-100-packs?variant=12093843341356
Choose the base type, color and lens type
wedge or bayonet, sunlight, frosted
yep, that part I managed to get ok.
I was confused about this part. there seem to be multiple options...flashers, non flashers.. etc.
>>get the 25 pak 5smd towers for the #906 bulbs>>
If I had to guess, I'd say you meant this one..but not sure.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/9smd-flashers?_pos=5&_sid=2d5ff59b6&_ss=r
with a cart that looks like this
have not ordered yet.
>>
8SMD Tower Flashers - Bayonet (89) / Cool White (Natural White)8SMD Tower Flashers
Bayonet (89) / Cool White (Natural White)
1 x
$1.89$1.89
9SMD Tower Flashers, 25 Packs - Wedge (906) / Cool White (Natural White)9SMD Tower Flashers, 25 Packs
Wedge (906) / Cool White (Natural White)
1 x
$44.75$44.75
2SMD Bulbs, 100 Packs - Wedge (555) / Sunlight / Frosted2SMD Bulbs, 100 Packs
Wedge (555) / Sunlight / Frosted
1 x
$59.00$59.00
2SMD Bulbs, 100 Packs - Bayonet (44/47) / Sunlight / Frosted2SMD Bulbs, 100 Packs
Bayonet (44/47) / Sunlight / Frosted
1 x
$59.00$59.00
>>>
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/5smd-flashers?_pos=9&_sid=4402beb8a&_ss=r
get the 5smd flasher/towers not the 9smd ones
everything else looks ok.
You might also get one of these if you dont have something similar already:
https://www.amazon.com/YIHUA-Soldering-Station-Charging-Voltage/dp/B07S4GPM66/ref=sr_1_3
Very handy for shrink tube and has a power supply to test lamp boards, connectors, pc boards and motors before installing
In a pinch test the lamp boards with a 6v battery made out of 3 AA batteries. Or just dial it in on your workstation (its what I do...)
Quoted from pinballinreno:https://www.cometpinball.com/products/5smd-flashers?_pos=9&_sid=4402beb8a&_ss=r
get the 5smd towers not the 9smd ones
everything else looks ok.
so, something like these guys?
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/5smd-bulbs-25-packs?variant=29411775184998
just making sure i have the right ones
I would argue for warm white LEDs since they better mimic the color of incandescent but to each his own...
Quoted from Shredder565:so, something like these guys?
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/5smd-bulbs-25-packs?variant=29411775184998
just making sure i have the right ones
no.
get the 5smd towers, they match the #906 bulbs. they have to shoot sideways. cool white.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/5smd-flashers?_pos=9&_sid=4402beb8a&_ss=r
Quoted from A_Bord:I would argue for warm white LEDs since they better mimic the color of incandescent but to each his own...
Yep.
Warm white for a #47 dim look that people are used to, or super old silvered-out #44 bulbs that glow yellow on older games. You put in new #44 bulbs and they arent that yellow any more
Sunlight for a brighter #44 look as was initially on the game when new.
Its a matter of what you are used to. But after doing a few games, the sunlight looks like a fresh new #44 bulb and doesnt alter the colors around it with too much yellow like the warm bulbs do.
Still its a matter of preference!
I now use exclusively sunlight bulbs unless there is maybe one or 2 inserts that I want to alter.
Quoted from pinballinreno:no.
get the 5smd towers, they match the #906 bulbs. they have to shoot sideways.
I must be mis reading it wrong. it looks like the only one showing up as a tower is the 9.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/9smd-flashers?_pos=11&_sid=12f355875&_ss=r
unless this is the 5 version.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/5smd-flashers?_pos=1&_sid=12f355875&_ss=r
Quoted from Shredder565:unless this is the 5 version.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/5smd-flashers?_pos=1&_sid=12f355875&_ss=r
yes 5smd flashers (used to be called towers back in the day lol)
#906 bulbs are used for flashers, so...flashers.
ordered
I think that'll be it until June when I get some other parts from one poster and some CPU boards from a poster here.
Quoted from Shredder565:ordered
I think that'll be it until June when I get some other parts from one poster and some CPU boards from a poster here.
Now you can insert wedge sockets and test the boards after they are assembled.
Once you get the leds.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Now you can insert wedge sockets and test the boards after they are assembled.
Once you get the leds.
it would be nice to power up the light boards at least, to make it seem a little closer to completion ;o).
I was thinking of upgrading to LEDs, but I wanted the cathode look of original. We'll see how it all turns out .
Quoted from Shredder565:it would be nice to power up the light boards at least, to make it seem a little closer to completion ;o).
I was thinking of upgrading to LEDs, but I wanted the cathode look of original. We'll see how it all turns out .
On the leds, when you get them,
Fan out the loose wire ends on both sides before installing them.
This insures permanent contact and eliminates vibration flicker.
Before
20200516_102459 (resized).jpg
After
20200516_102604 (resized).jpg
This is true for all wedge base leds.
Bayonet base LEDs dont have loose wire ends.
Quoted from Shredder565:it would be nice to power up the light boards at least, to make it seem a little closer to completion ;o).
I was thinking of upgrading to LEDs, but I wanted the cathode look of original. We'll see how it all turns out .
Populating the lamp boards and testing them before installation is a good idea.
In fact the lamp boards and pc boards are the first things to install on the playfield when rebuilding.
So, you could install them now.
If your workstation doesnt have a variable DC out for testing, you can just use a 4 AA 6v battery for tesing lamps:
https://www.amazon.com/AA-6V-Cell-Battery-Holder/dp/B003J8MV8E
The batteries are simply wired in series.
The #906 and #89 bulbs are 12v, so a 12v drill motor battery works in a pinch, or just make up a battery.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Populating the lamp boards and testing them before installation is a good idea.
In fact the lamp boards and pc boards are the first things to install on the playfield when rebuilding.
So, you could install them now.
If your workstation doesnt have a variable DC out for testing, you can just use a 4 AA 6v battery for tesing lamps:
amazon.com link »
The batteries are simply wired in series.
The #906 and #89 bulbs are 12v, so a 12v drill motor battery works in a pinch, or just make up a battery.
I took a 5volt ac addapter and crimped aligator clamps to the leads.
Yep I have a 12V Battery and the smaller one handy.
as for soldering stations, I just have a basic soldering iron. nothing fancy.
Quoted from Shredder565:Yep I have a 12V Battery and the smaller one handy.
as for soldering stations, I just have a basic soldering iron. nothing fancy.
The one i posted earlier from amazon sure looks purdy!
Quoted from pinballinreno:The one i posted earlier from amazon sure looks purdy!
that it does
feels like overkill for what I'd use it for though. Or,use it once for this and not for another one...
Quoted from Shredder565:I hope ramp placement one looks good cause it's in. the rest coming shortly.[quoted image]
Looks great!
Quoted from pinballinreno:Looks great!
Number two in.
only a dozen more to go ;o)
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