$8500 is right about what a new game would cost.
So, youre not too bad at all.

Have you checked the manual for star post locations? That’s usually all diagrammed out and with part numbers/ descriptions

Can you show a picture of the star post. The only two spots I see a plastic post. Besides the clear star post are here

0BF69201-2A93-4DB5-9302-CF456A2E0AF5 (resized).jpeg

4B87AC9A-4072-4B35-B70F-96FE0DCB2D63 (resized).png

Yes the manual shows a pic but I have no idea where they go. Sorry.

1C5E2319-05C0-4630-957C-D18750B09371 (resized).png

PM the other restorers for pics.

I wish you the best of luck with this project but you are going to hit a point where your not going to find the part(s) that you need to continue.

It's inevitable, but also entirely able to be overcome. People are coming together to source these parts, having them made when there is no other option. It's not easy, per se, but it's also not impossible. Thanks to the hard work of people like wallybgood these scratch builds are becoming easier to implement.

After watching the MadMax build I'm more confident than ever that if you've got the drive and passion... and ideally the right resources available to you anything can be fabricated. That build is creating some really awesome things. This thread is fun to watch and as others have pointed out time and again the Op is nothing if not inspirational in his positivity and passion.

It looks like you've got it flipped 180 degrees. The cutout should be on the playfield/lane side rather than the cabinet side.

Pretty sure thats where the diverter bracket comes up from under the playfield. I think you have it right.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-scratch-build/page/11#post-5510750

Reference @bryan_kelly’s post from earlier in this thread for some good shots of the rails.

Nice work cool to see this thing come to gather. what are you going to do for insert led are you buying used lamp pcbs making new ones finding nos ones or just trying to wire it you self ? Are you making unatanuiom parts of buying used or nos ones

So when you are done you will have the only new 2020 adams family, would we consider that a reproduction lol

Where did you have them made? Ball guides are not complicated - as long as your CAD is accurate, I expect they will be good.

I imagine wiring in individual lamp sockets would be more time consuming and costly, but had you thought if it just in case lamp pcb boards could not be had.?

Dankme took care of the TAF lampboard drawings, I did the TAF ball guide/bracket drawings. Not real difficult but very time consuming. Took a couple of weeks to finish the guide dwgs. Once drawings are completed they can be sent to pcb fabrication companies (lampboards) and laser cutting services (stainless guides). Lampboards still need to be populated w/ diodes and headers. Guides still need to be bent. They're not original, new or NOS but are functionally OK.
Wally

Watching this thread - cool!

Pcbs are so cheap these days far easier to just send designs off, you get couple hundred made they are under a dollar each easy, plus you get a quality product with proper vias and solder mask etc... far better then anything home made which will be no where near the quality and takes ages to produce.

Plus you can actually just send in the boards and have them copied.
4 day turn around in a lot of cases.

https://www.pcbway.com/

Interesting thread, but if complete harness isn't found, I see major problem.
It's easy to populate new pf with new parts, into premarked holes.
Wiring this thing correctly, with correct wire colors for troubleshooting will be a whole different story.
Good luck.

You ain't kidding, I been making Wpc wire since before this thread started, and it is a long, ugly, expensive project...It could be toned down considerably by not using correct colors, but that would probably make it even more confusing with the lack of documentation, crossover reference sheets, and a master copy change as per the manual...Not to mention a serious understanding of electronics, just on the matrix alone, That machine was cutting edge state of the art designed by a team of engineers...Not easy to duplicate.

If it comes down to a manual build of the wire harness— It’s of course proven to be possible but without an example it won’t look like a production harness (esp if you aren’t familiar with pins and how the harnesses are made up and tied together) and I’m foreseeing a lot of headache and troubleshooting. Hell, troubleshooting a factory made game can be a nightmare sometimes - just for stupid little mistakes like a reversed diode on a switch.

To do it right though seems like you’d be sitting down with the manual and cutting and soldering wires very methodically and carefully. Not sure how you’d get all the lengths.. overestimating and clipping excess later maybe? (If you do this shredder, keep in mind you need enough cable back to the boards to pull the pf out of the cab and to lift it vertical.

Pull the roll pin out and make sure the holes line up. If they do you should be able to tap it in.

I would imagine that you start by getting a measurement from the connector to the first item in a circuit(a row and column) and get that working. Then, run the next row and column. That's 3 new items. Test, and move to the next layer. That's 5 new items. Continue until you are at 8x8. If you test each new layer of components as you go, you will minimize the number of tests while isolating the problems to a single new row/column combination. If you use your own colors, create your own matrix and keep it with the machine. Maybe laminate a note and put it in the machine to help any techs who might be working on it in the future.

As a side note, since my from scratch build is heavily customized at the controller level, I have to do this anyway.

Roll pins can be finicky. Be sure to look at the shaft, usually one side of the roll pin hole of the shaft is tapered a bit and the other side is not. Don't try to drive the pin into hole that is not tapered. The taper is in there so that the roll pin will easily compress as it goes in.

Hey, thanks, dude.