Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992Quoted from Shredder565:there was a $35 touch screen 5 inch monitor I saw that would fit it as well.
but, the question is, can I connect it's current control panel board to the pi zero, or would I have to replace that too..
Look to be a basic switch matrix onto a flat flex cable, prob easier to use some cheap usb button pcb and rewire the buttons.
Quoted from russdx:Look to be a basic switch matrix onto a flat flex cable, prob easier to use some cheap usb button pcb and rewire the buttons.
Not sure how well that would work with the on/off switch though :/. that might be connected to the controller board. I'll have to take a look.
they do make converters though....so I could plug it in to usb.
when you can't work on one project (won't be able to finish the posts or install my reese rails yet)
...dive into others! that's my version of miller time!
I really want to convert one of those arcade1up cabs to a full mame cab but in the uk they are rare and expensive and only the crappy ones are available 
it was a fun enough project. a bit more time consuming than I thought it would be though. perfect to pass the time if one gets bored!
well, I guess it was bound to happen sooner or later :/.
VirtuaPin covid update. at least it still seems to be worked on!
>>>>>
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We are working diligently at producing and packing our quality products, and we are doing everything within our power to complete production as close to on time as possible. We are currently a bit behind schedule, as there has been some disruptions in the supply chain. We are currently stocked with what we need to finish your cabinet orders. We will be working until we are instructed otherwise by our local or federal government and will keep you updated as events unfold over the next week(s).
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Sincerely,
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-VirtuaPin Cabinets
Hey Paul Noah....You may want to check on quality control over in your DMD panel booth, I bought one, and the MDF was shattered and spiderwebs around the T nuts like someone beat them in...I couldn't with good conciousness even use it.
Quoted from Passave:Hey Paul Noah....You may want to check on quality control over in your DMD panel booth, I bought one, and the MDF was shattered and spiderwebs around the T nuts like someone beat them in...I couldn't with good conciousness even use it.
Please contact me via email, and I'll be happy to replace it. My apologies for the inconvenience.
As for production, it's still moving forward. I am working solo, so please be patient. I cannot, in good conscience, insist anyone leave their home and work at this time.
it's odd how being told to stay home doesn't work and makes you want to go out.
Day 12 of almost two weeks since wensday home. at least I got a little closer in this build. Coleco Pac-Man n ow working on portable mame. just a simple matter of how to assemble it all properly.
91095069_10157826238045211_6178864355753328640_n (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:it's odd how being told to stay home doesn't work and makes you want to go out.[quoted image]
Go out!!
Glad i could help!
hoping to get into the office tomorrow for the first time in a few weeks.
maybe I can get my reese rails on(Assuming they delivered ok in the crazy) and my remaining posts on...and switch out some new c clamps.
Was thinking though... if anyone has any extra wire enough, now would would be a good time to create extra wire harnesses ;o).
Welp you've made the decision to use what you had available, they will function just fine... but technically they are these type:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4106-01042-20
... hardware in many cases can be substituted, but it all depends upon how authentic you wan't to remain to the original.
Quoted from Shredder565:would these work? sometimes having a warehouse at work helps [quoted image]
Dont use drywall screws.
They are too brittle and the heads break off.
A #6 × 1-1/4" oval head or bugle head sheet metal screw is what you want.
Or
#6 ×1-1/4" flathead crosshead wood screw.
The V Head (similar to drywall screws) will keep the wood from slipping sideways.
THe other problem with the drywall screw is that they cracked the wood a little in the rail. I won't install the last one yet until I get the screws above.
But, what else can I order from marco to fill out the other a little? Can I get all the book case parts from them, for instance? maybe I can assemble that next.
Quoted from luch:you may have to pre drill for the screws , oak is hard and can split
yeah, I stupidly figured that out about halfway through when i noticed the first crack. even if I was going slow..
well, considering I'll get it all back tomorrow, put in an order for an almost complete Bookcase Assembly part set, + a main ramp. Maybe I can work on this and the Thing assembly in the next month or so.
Another $600 added to the economy 
.
also added the right screws...
Quoted from Shredder565:well, considering I'll get it all back tomorrow, put in an order for an almost complete Bookcase Assembly part set, + a main ramp. Maybe I can work on this and the Thing assembly in the next month or so.
Another $600 added to the economy .
also added the right screws...
The cost it’s gonna take to build this thing will kick start the economy by it self
Quoted from Shredder565:yeah, I stupidly figured that out about halfway through when i noticed the first crack. even if I was going slow..
TaylorVA pre drills his rails for the correct screws
Quoted from Ricochet:taylorva pre drills his rails for the correct screws
Yep, predrilled for tne #6
Fortunately cracks in oak are very easily fixed eith a little titbond and a clamp
At first I tought you were Crazy.
Now I know you are Crazy but you are my favorite one!!
Keep sharing your optimistic ways of seeing this. We need guys like you!
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yep, predrilled for tne #6
Fortunately cracks in oak are very easily fixed eith a little titbond and a clamp
You are absolutely correct the cracks need to be fixed and fixed this way.
Also, what parts am I missing for the ramp install and to install the posts near the special light (with the adjustable base?)
Sheet Metal Screw #6 x 1-1/4 inch p-flh-a 15 $0.21 $3.15
Machine Screw 8-32 x 1/2" p-ph-s 1 $0.20 $0.20
Washer .187 x .625 x .059 inch #8 2 $0.25 $0.50
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase cable 1 $12.00 $12.00
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Ramp main 1 $219.00 $219.00
Locking nut - plastic 1 $3.95 $3.95
Flange bearing 2 $1.50 $3.00
Flange - plastic 1 $10.95 $10.95
Shaft 1/4 x 2-9/64 inches 1 $2.00 $2.00
Adjusting screw Bally 1 $15.50 $15.50
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase lens 4 $3.95 $15.80
Washer 0.125 x 0.281 x .032 inch 2 $0.19 $0.38
Rivet - 1/8 x 1/4 inches nickel 2 $0.15 $0.30
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Plastic 1 $5.99 $5.99
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase top blue 1 $6.95 $6.95
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase frame blue 1 $7.95 $7.95
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase Base Blue 1 $14.99 $14.99
Sheet Metal Screw #6 x 3/8" p-ph 2 $0.15 $0.30
Cable clamp holder 1/4" diameter 2 $0.29 $0.58
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase opto board set 1 $37.95 $37.95
Sheet Metal Screw #6 x 3/8" p-ph 2 $0.15 $0.30
Nut 8-32 esn stop nut 5 $0.15 $0.75
Cable clamp holder 1/4" diameter 2 $0.29 $0.58
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Electric Chair 1 $27.95 $27.95
Mini-post 8-32 thread 2 $2.35 $4.70
Rivet - 1/8 sft D x 3/16 sft L x 7/32 Head A 4 $0.25 $1.00
Roll pin 3/32" x 5/8" 20A-8716-2 1 $0.20 $0.20
Sheet Metal Screw #8 x 7/8" p-th-type 25 2 $0.24 $0.48
Crank arm - large 1 $7.95 $7.95
Crank arm - small 1 $6.99 $6.99
Machine Screw 8-32 x 5/8 inch p-ph 4 $0.15 $0.60
Washer .187 x .437 x .053 inch #8 SAE 5 $0.08 $0.40
Machine Screw 2-56 x 7/16 inch p-ph-s 4 $0.28 $1.12
Twin nut plate dual 2-56 screw 2 $2.00 $4.00
Diode - 400 volts 1 amp XO-254 2 $0.19 $0.38
Switch sub-mini assembly 2 $3.59 $7.18
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bracket switch 2 $1.55 $3.10
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Motor bookcase 1 $79.00 $79.00
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase bracket 1$49.00 $49.00
almost complete book case order.
This thread is a trip! I love your enthusiasm and how you have been sharing your other projects! I've always thought about something like this, while i personally dont think i could swing the cash, i think this is awesome. I have 2 machines and I have probably spent more time rebuilding than playing. And there is something truly satisfying about fixing stuff. I've enjoyed every minute and Im sure you are as well!
Good Luck sir! I will be following you to the end!
one last order for the month. Switch subminiature with bracket A-11680 2 $8.95 $17.90
Rubber ring - White 27/64 inch or 7/16 inch OD 38-2764 4 $0.25 $1.00
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Metal ball guide left 01-10591-L 1 $9.25 $9.25
Ball guide - long runway 01-10599 1 $18.00 $18.00
ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) subway chute assy A-15070 1 $59.00 $59.00
I should be able to assemble the bookcase now at least.
next month we'll look at the topper, the dmd, and maybe the boards.
Following your journey. I wish you the best of luck at least you are in the right place if you get stumped.
So, if I finish the book case and the Thing Hand... how much closer to a complete playfield will I be at this stage?
It looks like it should be at at least 50%.....
Quoted from Shredder565:So, if I finish the book case and the Thing Hand... how much closer to a complete playfield will I be at this stage?
It looks like it should be at at least 50%.....
Nah —Even closer.. I’d say 75 lol
trying to figure out how much is left after the big stuff is out of the way.
obviously the ball guides. The plastics set. the PCB's for the lights on the bottom. and the Flipper build is the main stuff I can think of now.
Quoted from Shredder565:trying to figure out how much is left after the big stuff is out of the way.
obviously the ball guides. The plastics set. the PCB's for the lights on the bottom. and the Flipper build is the main stuff I can think of now.
Did you buy the paper manual yet? That should give you a very good idea.
Not sure what you mean by what’s left percentage wise— there’s a lot of work and parts left bottom line. Besides the cabinet parts left and whole wire harness including IDC’s and Such— you’ve got all the mechicanical and opto switches, ball trough , opto PCb?, motor driver pcb, ball guides, Ramps, light boards, lights, flasher assemblies, backboard and associated parts, rubbers, plastics, random posts still left?, a ton of hardware, some other stuff, and all the unobtanium stuff. Quite a bit left
It is far from over...Personally when Jenn does this, the playfield is last, The parts get sourced, assemblies get made, but the playfield gets put together last... Good point Mbecker, IDC's and wire, that is a subject that can only be experienced to have a full understanding...If one was to measure progress with percentage I would put this at more around 4%...A more pointed concern, would be in consideration of the cabinet, the backbox in particular, the boards aside, the tin they hang on is quite specific, and designed with not only conductivity in mind, but compatable in terms of dissimilar metals...For example, aluminum and copper will sulfate with time, accelerated by the conductive nature...The holes are square (should one adhere to original design) and were punched on a press, not a common size for a chassis punch, Stainless is a high carbon steel, and offers a poor conductivity...There is a secret friend, but you ain't going to like the answer, and certainly wouldn't be measured in percents
As others have said your probably at 5% of just the pf being completed and like 3% of the whole machine, it’s insane how many parts go into these things and all the strange assembly processes involved in assembling them You will slowly get there, once the pre made cab turns up that will jump your completion % quite a bit
The loom is gonna bite hard though, it was a nightmare on my earth shaker restore and all I did was remove it and remove the switches. I can’t imagine creating it from scratch hehe.
Keep up the good work
Quoted from Passave:the tin they hang on is quite specific
I have a few of these available if needed they are polished stainless and i also have swirled stainless....the only issue there is only one hole for the small extra flipper power board on far right but it will still hold it in place. If your using the fliptronics 2 board then you dont need to use extra board...Otherwise these will work in all WPC - WPC/S games
$75.00 CA
60160920930__9116AFA6-A0B0-4027-BFB6-DE01E4C4F840 (resized).JPGIMG_5445 (resized).jpgI feel it would make more sense to populate the bottom of the PF and get everything wired before populating the top side. You'll likely have to remove ramps, wireforms, etc while building out the bottom to get everything properly wired, switches adjusted, etc.
Quoted from Stretch7:I have a few of these available if needed they are polished stainless and i also have swirled stainless....the only issue there is only one hole for the small extra flipper power board on far right but it will still hold it in place. If your using the fliptronics 2 board then you dont need to use extra board...Otherwise these will work in all WPC - WPC/S games
$75.00 CA[quoted image][quoted image]
I may need one of these. shoot me a pm with details.
part of my book case order gets here monday. the larger order seems to be taking some time to get shipped. it looks like THING will cost just about as much, around ^600 to assemble, so he's going to have to wait till Friday to get ordered.
With thing Parts ordered so far, total spent on project?
Around $5,000
once the cabinet arrives, it'll at least start to LOOK like a pinball machine that is mostly complete ;o).
Now I have to go through my complete parts list item, and check off the part numbers I do have to see what's left of the 3,000 or so parts needed.
but at least I can take a break from part ordering for a few weeks again. next time we pick up, i'll get a plastics set, a dmd, and maybe the flippers set.
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Hanover, NJ
Bermuda Triangle
Leduc, AB