(Topic ID: 257696)

Addams Family - Scratch Build?

By Shredder565

4 years ago


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“This project is”

  • Ambitious 117 votes
    42%
  • insane 135 votes
    48%
  • will be undone by a official remake in a few months..:) 27 votes
    10%

(279 votes)

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There are 5,458 posts in this topic. You are on page 14 of 110.
#651 4 years ago

OK, both of those where both T-Nuts. the one that appears to tbe the self tap is this one next to the bumper.

and one next to the Special light? Not so sure on the placement of that one, but it's in a photo I have. I can also see why you guys say not to go by the instruction manuals. I'm short at least two posts. But, this is the current state of the board, with pretty much everything I bought properly secured and in place . It's starting to look a little less impossible now. hopefully these photo's help out other beginners too..

90306220_10157785438855211_4344248017042276352_n (resized).jpg90306220_10157785438855211_4344248017042276352_n (resized).jpg90705605_10157785438835211_2014832165723832320_n (resized).jpg90705605_10157785438835211_2014832165723832320_n (resized).jpg
#652 4 years ago

Keep up the good work. I’m enjoying the progress.

#653 4 years ago

Some of those pass through the playfield and have a nylon nut to secure.

#654 4 years ago

The outlane posts (outside, next to the Special lights), as far as I recall, screw into three-position threaded plates that are mounted to the bottom side of the playfield. This allows you to remove the post and adjust its position (easy/medium/hard) to decide how often the ball exits down the outlane.

#656 4 years ago

OK, so I will leave that one off for now...no problem.

#657 4 years ago

ahh, I see the plate instantly. OK. that is a self screw not a tapper. Will def leave that off for now.

#658 4 years ago

Sorry I believe I said the wrong lingo.

#659 4 years ago

Has anyone ordered from this site? https://4rcustomswire.com/t/18-gauge-gxl

#660 4 years ago

alright... that is pretty much all I can do for now. pretty much every part I have is attached, minus the swamp ramp that I just s aw photos of how it's properly attached just now. I can do that anytime.

So, it'll be alot of down time until april and the bank account recovers a little . Hopefully by then those boards are still around for $700. if not, more waiting .

Pretty much all my posts are on. My Ramps are on. my under playfield items are on. My bumpers and bump posts are on. Rotisserie is built and ready.
Making some very decent progress.

And this is one reason why I like to do stuff when I have it. When you do things right, and you do it at a decent pace, and it comes out nicely....it jazzes you up to keep doing more. If you keep on piling and piling up parts and nothing gets done and you fret about it endlessly....it's less fun that way .

#661 4 years ago

Yes. They only have bare copper wire, nothing tinned. They do have a TON of color options though!

#662 4 years ago

So, would that wire be good for a harness?

#663 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

So, would that wire be good for a harness?

It’s automotive grade wire. The insulation is quite a bit thicker... and it’s bare copper. Most electronic equipment (like pinball machines/amusement equipment) uses tinned copper wire. It provides a layer of protection against oxidation and corrosion. I wouldn’t use it... doesn’t mean it won’t work.

#664 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I wouldn’t use it... doesn’t mean it won’t work.

So, if t he wire guys don't come through for me, it's an option at least..but not a desireable one...hmm.. always a catch 22..

So, does that look OK for the swamp parts?
Last main piece I have to attach. Not sure if it should be covering the rail hole or not...but according to the picture, that seems mostly right.

89941650_10157785794210211_4275734574182432768_n (resized).jpg89941650_10157785794210211_4275734574182432768_n (resized).jpg
#665 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

So, does that look OK for the swamp parts?
Last main piece I have to attach. Not sure if it should be covering the rail hole or not...but according to the picture, that seems mostly right.[quoted image]

Welp this is one of those order is important things (no pun intended with “thing”). You’re going to have to remove that part to install the rail.

#666 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Welp this is one of those order is important things (no pun intended with “thing”). You’re going to have to remove that part to install the rail.

That's OK. No problem there. just so long as it's in the OK General location .

At least by the time I'm done (If I ever get done) building this thing, I'll have a better understanding of how it all goes together .

#667 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

That's OK. No problem there. just so long as it's in the OK General location .
At least by the time I'm done (If I ever get done) building this thing, I'll have a better understanding of how it all goes together .

Yes you will for certain. On my first tear down and rebuild I made a few sequence errors ... but as long as you don’t get too far ahead of yourself ... they are correctable.

#668 4 years ago

you should get the reese rails now.

it will stabilise the playfield to keep it from warping from the weight.

or at least some kind of rails while waiting for them

#669 4 years ago

request was put in a week ago, and he's apparently busy at the moment..so we'll see.

but if I where to make my own, what's the length/type of wood needed? I 've got my sawsall ready to go.

#670 4 years ago

#671 4 years ago

well, guess I'm staying home for at least a week.

Sister had lunch with someone a week ago who had a confirmed case of the virus. So far, she's not showing any signs..so I guess if in another week she's still fine, that means we're most likely fine too. I hardly ever get sick so not too worried. but at least the bank account will get filled up quicker with an advance in sick pay.

Still gonna save up till April though.

So, here is a question.

At this point, other than the un obtanium items, what would you be installing on next?

I know most people like to work the bottom first. I think I might get a top ramp though to see if it hits my bumpers or not.

#672 4 years ago

Good idea to do a test fit. But for the reasons of being damaged I would wait till the end to fully install ramps. I know your getting anxious because you are seeing your work come together. But you know the saying. “Patience is a virtue”

#673 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

I know most people like to work the bottom first. I think I might get a top ramp though to see if it hits my bumpers or not.

Doesn't hurt to buy the ramp, but you're missing the supports for it, so you'll have no idea if it fits or not.

As for what to install and when, I like to install the first layer of parts on the top, then do the entire bottom, then finish the top.

#674 4 years ago

Take a break from installation... and spend a ton of time studying restorations and documentation. It will pay off. I mean study... every day.

#675 4 years ago

Here is soon
Good pics of some post locations just posted on the other TAF rebuild thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/it-s-showtime-rebuilding-a-classic-the-addams-family-/page/4#post-5537331

#676 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yes. They only have bare copper wire, nothing tinned. They do have a TON of color options though!

What about this stuff?
https://www.sherco-auto.com/striped-tracer-wire.html

Type III Class K tinned copper
Marine grade stuff

#677 4 years ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

What about this stuff?
https://www.sherco-auto.com/striped-tracer-wire.html
Type III Class K tinned copper
Marine grade stuff

Yup that’s good wire ... just I don’t see anything smaller than 18AWG... maybe I missed something

#678 4 years ago

So, assuming this list is complete posted back on page 4, I could start building my wire harness from that site?

593 HW-30018-0 wire 18awg black TAF
421 HW-30018-04 wire 18awg blk/yel TAF
252 HW-30018-06 wire 18awg blk/blu TAF
214 HW-30018-1 wire 18awg brown TAF
373 HW-30018-2 wire 18awg red TAF
92 HW-30018-29 wire 18awg red/wht TAF
44 HW-30018-3 wire 18awg orange TAF
145 HW-30018-35 wire 18awg org/grn TAF
145 HW-30018-36 wire 18awg org/blu TAF
237 HW-30018-37 wire 18awg org/vio TAF
252 HW-30018-38 wire 18awg org/gry TAF
237 HW-30018-4 wire 18awg yellow TAF
316 HW-30018-49 wire 18awg yel/wht TAF
27 HW-30018-54 wire 18awg grn/yel TAF
44 HW-30018-6 wire 18awg blue TAF
276 HW-30018-64 wire 18awg blu/yel TAF
265 HW-30018-67 wire 18awg blu/vio TAF
266 HW-30018-68 wire 18awg blu/gry TAF
184 HW-30018-69 wire 18awg blu/wht TAF
365 HW-30018-7 wire 18awg violet TAF
230 HW-30018-73 wire 18awg vio/org TAF
459 HW-30018-74 wire 18awg vio/yel TAF
146 HW-30018-75 wire 18awg vio/grn TAF
274 HW-30018-8 wire 18awg gray TAF
348 HW-30018-84 wire 18awg gry/yel TAF
140 HW-30018-85 wire 18awg gry/grn TAF
92 HW-30018-89 wire 18awg gry/wht TAF
196 HW-30018-9 wire 18awg white TAF
170 HW-30018-91 wire 18awg wht/brn TAF
184 HW-30018-92 wire 18awg wht/red TAF
184 HW-30018-95 wire 18awg wht/grn TAF
20 HW-30018-96 wire 18awg wht/blu TAF
154 HW-30018-97 wire 18awg wht/vio TAF
33 HW-60018-0 wire 18awg black TAF
25 HW-60018-9 wire 18awg white TAF

#used part number part name used on games
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
639 CW-30022-0 wire 22awg black TAF
123 CW-30022-01 wire 22awg blk/brn TAF
114 CW-30022-02 wire 22awg blk/red TAF
151 CW-30022-03 wire 22awg blk/org TAF
408 CW-30022-04 wire 22awg blk/yel TAF
137 CW-30022-05 wire 22awg blk/grn TAF
245 CW-30022-06 wire 22awg blk/blu TAF
115 CW-30022-07 wire 22awg blk/vio TAF
114 CW-30022-08 wire 22awg blk/gry TAF
102 CW-30022-10 wire 22awg brn/blk TAF
99 CW-30022-12 wire 22awg brn/red TAF
123 CW-30022-13 wire 22awg brn/org TAF
105 CW-30022-14 wire 22awg brn/yel TAF
123 CW-30022-15 wire 22awg brn/grn TAF
121 CW-30022-16 wire 22awg brn/blu TAF
122 CW-30022-17 wire 22awg brn/vio TAF
150 CW-30022-18 wire 22awg brn/gry TAF
49 CW-30022-2 wire 22awg red TAF
255 CW-30022-20 wire 22awg red/blk TAF
257 CW-30022-21 wire 22awg red/brn TAF
261 CW-30022-23 wire 22awg red/org TAF
279 CW-30022-24 wire 22awg red/yel TAF
316 CW-30022-25 wire 22awg red/grn TAF
229 CW-30022-26 wire 22awg red/blu TAF
233 CW-30022-27 wire 22awg red/vio TAF
350 CW-30022-28 wire 22awg red/gry TAF
255 CW-30022-29 wire 22awg red/wht TAF
486 CW-30022-3 wire 22awg orange TAF
150 CW-30022-30 wire 22awg org/blk TAF
150 CW-30022-31 wire 22awg org/brn TAF
150 CW-30022-32 wire 22awg org/red TAF
150 CW-30022-34 wire 22awg org/yel TAF
153 CW-30022-35 wire 22awg org/grn TAF
112 CW-30022-36 wire 22awg org/blu TAF
112 CW-30022-37 wire 22awg org/vio TAF
112 CW-30022-38 wire 22awg org/gry TAF
112 CW-30022-39 wire 22awg org/wht TAF
160 CW-30022-4 wire 22awg yellow TAF
184 CW-30022-40 wire 22awg yel/blk TAF
169 CW-30022-41 wire 22awg yel/brn TAF
157 CW-30022-42 wire 22awg yel/red TAF
124 CW-30022-43 wire 22awg yel/org TAF
130 CW-30022-45 wire 22awg yel/grn TAF
161 CW-30022-46 wire 22awg yel/blu TAF
246 CW-30022-47 wire 22awg yel/vio TAF
145 CW-30022-48 wire 22awg yel/gry TAF
22 CW-30022-5 wire 22awg green TAF
157 CW-30022-50 wire 22awg grn/blk TAF
320 CW-30022-51 wire 22awg grn/brn TAF
295 CW-30022-52 wire 22awg grn/red TAF
241 CW-30022-53 wire 22awg grn/org TAF
148 CW-30022-54 wire 22awg grn/yel TAF
245 CW-30022-56 wire 22awg grn/blu TAF
234 CW-30022-57 wire 22awg grn/vio TAF
138 CW-30022-58 wire 22awg grn/gry TAF
8 CW-30022-6 wire 22awg blue TAF
173 CW-30022-60 wire 22awg blu/blk TAF
87 CW-30022-61 wire 22awg blu/brn TAF
85 CW-30022-62 wire 22awg blu/red TAF
101 CW-30022-63 wire 22awg blu/org TAF
121 CW-30022-64 wire 22awg blu/yel TAF
138 CW-30022-65 wire 22awg blu/grn TAF
283 CW-30022-67 wire 22awg blu/vio TAF
267 CW-30022-68 wire 22awg blu/gry TAF
180 CW-30022-7 wire 22awg violet TAF
106 CW-30022-70 wire 22awg vio/blk TAF
113 CW-30022-71 wire 22awg vio/brn TAF
130 CW-30022-72 wire 22awg vio/red TAF
104 CW-30022-73 wire 22awg vio/org TAF
138 CW-30022-74 wire 22awg vio/yel TAF
284 CW-30022-75 wire 22awg vio/grn TAF
100 CW-30022-76 wire 22awg vio/blu TAF
123 CW-30022-78 wire 22awg vio/gry TAF
40 CW-30022-81 wire 22awg gry/brn TAF
40 CW-30022-82 wire 22awg gry/red TAF
40 CW-30022-83 wire 22awg gry/org TAF
494 CW-30022-84 wire 22awg gry/yel TAF
40 CW-30022-85 wire 22awg gry/grn TAF
41 CW-30022-86 wire 22awg gry/blu TAF
22 CW-30022-9 wire 22awg white TAF
373 CW-30022-91 wire 22awg wht/brn TAF
333 CW-30022-92 wire 22awg wht/red TAF
427 CW-30022-93 wire 22awg wht/org TAF
453 CW-30022-94 wire 22awg wht/yel TAF
311 CW-30022-95 wire 22awg wht/grn TAF
250 CW-30022-96 wire 22awg wht/blu TAF
427 CW-30022-97 wire 22awg wht/vio TAF
246 CW-30022-98 wire 22awg wht/gry TAF

#680 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yup that’s good wire ... just I don’t see anything smaller than 18AWG... maybe I missed something

They have a limited selection of 22 as well on that page.

#681 4 years ago

You have all the exact lengths needed for each wire or just all the types?

#682 4 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

You have all the exact lengths needed for each wire or just all the types?

the number on the far left is the length of each wire, in inches IIRC.

I'm hoping that is all the wires needed in the set listed. All I have to do to start is collect the right color wire and snip it to the proper length.

#683 4 years ago

Yes the left number is length in inches. Planetary Pinball has alot of the wiring but not all of it. I would buy extra of each color and there is no way I would cut the wire before laying it out.

People have mentioned in this thread to start the wire harness now but to me that seems like the last thing I would do. I would wait until everything is installed in its place on the playfield then start the runs.

#684 4 years ago

That amount of wire is going to be very expensive. Some of the color combinations are very hard to find, too.
I actually agree with the sentiment of wiring it last. I understand doing it first and getting it out if the way, but it’s easier to understand where it goes if you can see the destinations. You can read the switch matrix and have a pretty good feel for where wires ultimately need to go, even if it isn’t an exact replica of an original harness.

#685 4 years ago

Yeah def don’t cut anything until mechs and stuff is laid out. You want to know exactly where each wire is going to / from and it will be easiest to do similar stuff together probably if you can, then zip tie it clean— you’ll have several trunk bundles but lots of branches from the trunks that go to a few mechs, lights, switches here and there.

#686 4 years ago

remember ! you can't cut it longer !

#687 4 years ago

well, I would like to save the wire harness for last. but at least if I can start hoarding wire, I can s tart to put a dent into it .

#688 4 years ago

messing around with a little classic recreation in 3D. trying to get as accurate as possible

scene (resized).jpgscene (resized).jpg
#689 4 years ago

office closed till Thursday to test 'remote working' procedures. So, can't work on anything anyway for the next few days.

my remaining posts and star arrived Friday before the world shut down, so at least that section of the build is mostly done.

Ye old bank account will be mostly recovered by next week or the week after, but will still keep on saving till at least the first week in april. in the mean time, I can start hoarding small amounts of wire and slowly cross those off the check list halfway in april.

#690 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

the number on the far left is the length of each wire, in inches IIRC.
I'm hoping that is all the wires needed in the set listed. All I have to do to start is collect the right color wire and snip it to the proper length.

The number in the Parts List (BOM) is the TOTAL inches required. It could be made up from many wires of different lengths.
Yep, all light sockets, lampboards, pcbs, switches should be installed first.
Wally

-1
#691 4 years ago
Quoted from wallybgood:

The number in the Parts List (BOM) is the TOTAL inches required. It could be made up from many wires of different lengths.
Yep, all light sockets, lampboards, pcbs, switches should be installed first.
Wally

I was kinda wondering about that.. didn’t study list too much but it seemed way short lol. A full list of all wire lengths .. off top of my head say 20 drivers, 80? Switches, 30? GI, 60 inserts.. that’s somewhere in the 400 wire range if you ran 2 wires to each device. Of course sometimes wires are doubled up in places,and/or share common grounds,etc. still.. it’s a shit ton of wire. There’s a reason that when you talk about amount of wire in a 90s wms pinball- it’s Often quoted in units of miles, not feet. Not that it’s 10 miles, but it certainly isn’t a 1,000 feet..

-1
#692 4 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

I was kinda wondering about that.. didn’t study list too much but it seemed way short lol. A full list of all wire lengths .. off top of my head say 20 drivers, 80? Switches, 30? GI, 60 inserts.. that’s somewhere in the 400 wire range if you ran 2 wires to each device. Of course sometimes wires are doubled up in places,and/or share common grounds,etc. still.. it’s a shit ton of wire. There’s a reason that when you talk about amount of wire in a 90s wms pinball- it’s Often quoted in units of miles, not feet. Not that it’s 10 miles, but it certainly isn’t a 1,000 feet..

A lot of lamps are grouped into pcbs which saves wire and the lamps / switches are in a matrix configuration sort of like a big grid which reduces wire as well as it’s not just 2 wires to each component they all mixed in the matrix, plus all the coil loom you will find the positive side is common and will go to all coils just leaving the negative side for driving. So there is a lot less wiring then you think. But still a shit ton

#693 4 years ago
Quoted from wallybgood:

The number in the Parts List (BOM) is the TOTAL inches required. It could be made up from many wires of different lengths.
Yep, all light sockets, lampboards, pcbs, switches should be installed first.
Wally

that does make it trickier to start with without everything attached! But at least the wire can start to be dented with in hoarding.

#694 4 years ago

Did you find all your metal playfield posts? I've got all kind of them, if you need something.

#695 4 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Did you find all your metal playfield posts? I've got all kind of them, if you need something.

The only thing I could use right now are the ball guides. the two next to the special light that I have to drill holes for. everything else I did manage to find on marco minus two they had out of stock but expect to restock .

My Reese rails are ready to ship! yay!

Hopefully I can get back in next week and put those suckers on.

I am kind of wondering how all this virus stuff is going to effect my cabinet construction though. haven't had an update on that in a month or so.
no rush, just curious on progress . especially with business taking a few weeks off.

-1
#696 4 years ago

In the meantime, Isolation Projects.

taking apart my Coleco Kickstarter robotech to see what's in it, and to see how I can modify it to play the original Coleco Pac-Man

90916337_10157798242635211_367686274695299072_n (resized).jpg90916337_10157798242635211_367686274695299072_n (resized).jpg
#697 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

In the meantime, Isolation Projects.
taking apart my Coleco Kickstarter robotech to see what's in it, and to see how I can modify it to play the original Coleco Pac-Man[quoted image]

Stick a raspberry pi zero in there running retroPi

#698 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

Stick a raspberry pi zero in there running retroPi

there was a $35 touch screen 5 inch monitor I saw that would fit it as well.

but, the question is, can I connect it's current control panel board to the pi zero, or would I have to replace that too..

#699 4 years ago

ambitious project but hats off to you, but please get some rubber pads and better clamps - would hate to hear that you have a playfield fall and damage

also just in case if you haven't been here download the parts list from
https://www.ipdb.org/files/20/Bally_1992_The_Addams_Family_Parts_List.txt
and start ticking the parts off and start a spreadsheet of what you have and then use
https://www.pinballsearch.com/#gsc.tab=0
to locate the pieces and places to get them to save you on some freight

enjoy

#700 4 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

ambitious project but hats off to you, but please get some rubber pads and better clamps - would hate to hear that you have a playfield fall and damage
also just in case if you haven't been here download the parts list from
https://www.ipdb.org/files/20/Bally_1992_The_Addams_Family_Parts_List.txt
and start ticking the parts off and start a spreadsheet of what you have and then use
https://www.pinballsearch.com/#gsc.tab=0
to locate the pieces and places to get them to save you on some freight
enjoy

clamps will be bought this week. as they are cheap enough.

I've already been doing the check list, but with the manual instead. a Bigger printed one might not be a bad idea though.

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