Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992Quoted from Shredder565:just a add on so no one think I missed this part .
and yeah. this was just test sink to see how close I got to the surface with the countersink drill. I've never done one of these bolts before, so I didn't want to even risk attaching half a thing on it if it was going to come off anyway .
Yeah always good to play it safe 
So, if I where to get some this week, what kind should I get?
Ordered a 208 piece drill bit set so I'll never be without the right tip for the screw driver again. that gets here monday. As well as the proper driver to tighten those nuts down. My Toolbox just keeps on getting bigger with all these prop projects.
I wish I could afford some of these more expensive items.. but trying to keep costs down i nthe next few weeks in case the tax man comes a calling with a big bill. sometimes I get a refund, sometimes I don't :/....best to be prepared.
My first Pop Bumper bottom is done. How does this look? I tried to get them as flush as possible..but don't know if they need to get even closer than that before I try the others.
89668335_10157777392120211_2594230972010463232_n (resized).jpg89994137_10157777392095211_5729121107370311680_n (resized).jpgNow would be a really good time to start building a wire harness...relatively inexpensive and very time consuming. Just what the doctor ordered while the world is shutdown for the next 1-3 months.
Quoted from ryanbrooks:Now would be a really good time to start building a wire harness...relatively inexpensive and very time consuming. Just what the doctor ordered while the world is shutdown for the next 1-3 months.
I'm still waiting on my wire guys.
One of them wants me to use just one color wire, and label it. yes, it'd be cheaper that way...but I'd think it'd be ten times harder to trouble shoot without the correct color coding.
Also, is the wire in the wire harness stranded or solid? my guess was solid.
Quoted from Shredder565:I'm still waiting on my wire guys.
One of them wants me to use just one color wire, and label it. yes, it'd be cheaper that way...but I'd think it'd be ten times harder to trouble shoot without the correct color coding.
Also, is the wire in the wire harness stranded or solid? my guess was solid.
Stranded.
Quoted from Shredder565:I'm still waiting on my wire guys.
One of them wants me to use just one color wire, and label it. yes, it'd be cheaper that way...but I'd think it'd be ten times harder to trouble shoot without the correct color coding.
Also, is the wire in the wire harness stranded or solid? my guess was solid.
deffo deffo get it coloured, if you can use same colours of the original that will help but even if you use your own colours that is far better then all the same colour, like u say it will be a nightmare to trouble shoot and i can assume you a custom made loom will need some trouble shooting
I built a 1964 Lambretta TV200 from scratch once. Endless parts orders. Powder coated frame. Just beautiful.
From scratch. Boxes of dusty parts from all around the world. A headset personally brought over from Italy in his carry on luggage be Vince from Lambrettaworks.
Cost a shit ton, but ask me anything about a Series 3 Lambretta. I can tell you the one place on the entire bike where you need a 12mm wrench. One place.
Right on.
0A4E03DC-FDFD-410E-B73E-788F4CB8018F (resized).jpeg19BFB488-ECB2-420D-8600-EBACD065BC2E (resized).jpegQuoted from Shredder565:The first pop bumper is on.
Assuming that looks right, problem one is instantly noticeable. the wires for the lamp are too long. can I trim them? I assume I shouldn't bend them to fit outward...[quoted image]
pop007 (resized).jpgShredder,
They are bent outward and in specific directions ( so they don't short out to other items), And stapled... You need to get a bunch of photos.
I can get you some similar photos from my Funhouse, but you are better off getting some one to send the correct photos.
gotcha. I'll leave that for later... as it looks ok enough to do....but at least the first one is on properly now.
If you build the harness yourself, you’re constantly studying the schematics. Since this is your first pinball experience, it will help you learn the ins and outs. Such knowledge will be critical when you reach the point of terminating wire in the backbox and on the playfield.
Quoted from Shredder565:So, eventually, it should look something like this, only making sure it only touches wood..[quoted image]
Yeah but they will go in certain locations as if you look at the above photo 3 lamps share the same common and another 2 share as well so those legs need to be bent in a direction they can all meet and be connected the other legs just bent some where else avoiding any mechs and usually terminate with a diode onto the loom.
Quoted from Shredder565:wish I could afford some of these more expensive items.. but trying to keep costs down i nthe next few weeks in case the tax man comes a calling with a big bill.
This is highlighting why you should be a bit more patient and hold off buying random parts that are generally always available in order to save up $500-800 bucks and keep it handy for jumping on the unobtainable stuff when it Happens to appear on eBay, Pinside, or possibly as NOS on a pin parts website like planatary or pinball resource.
Quoted from Mbecker:This is highlighting why you should be a bit more patient and hold off buying random parts that are generally always available in order to save up $500-800 bucks and keep it handy for jumping on the unobtainable stuff when it Happens to appear on eBay, Pinside, or possibly as NOS on a pin parts website like planatary or pinball resource.
Understood.
I made a significant denting start in parts in the beginning......and the machine is starting to look like something now. So I think I will hold off buying for a few weeks. at least until mid april. By then if they are still available, I should be able to get those boards no problem.
I think that is a good enough place to stop for a few week break.
The Pop bumpers are all in, top and bottom. the targets are all secured. the posts that I can identify are locked in tight with the nylon nuts. it's starting to look like a machine.
Still waiting on reese rails. Hoping my cabinet ships in the next month....
about the only inspirational thing about this build? If I can do it and get this far without screwing up, literally ANYONE can. with lots of help
90275759_10157778498915211_5891738628010278912_n (resized).jpgAll one color wire is a bad idea, Those labels may dry up someday and fall off...Primarily that was 22ga, (little difficult to find) and 18Ga, however Bay area does sell 22ga and is a good quality wire for around 2 bucks or so for 10ft,(most colors, but still spendy in quanity) it is not the 24ga, but a suitable replacement (little bigger) but still works well with the IDC"s.
Quoted from russdx:Yeah but they will go in certain locations as if you look at the above photo 3 lamps share the same common and another 2 share as well so those legs need to be bent in a direction they can all meet and be connected the other legs just bent some where else avoiding any mechs and usually terminate with a diode onto the loom.
yeah, it did look like some of them where touching. i'm assuming this is to cut down on wires used?
Quoted from Passave:All one color wire is a bad idea, Those labels may dry up someday and fall off...Primarily that was 22ga, (little difficult to find) and 18Ga, however Bay area does sell 22ga and is a good quality wire for around 2 bucks or so for 10ft,(most colors, but still spendy in quanity) it is not the 24ga, but a suitable replacement (little bigger) but still works well with the IDC"s.
Didn't think about the labels drying up and falling off, even if using sturdy h eavy duty plastic things. But yeah, that is another concern of one color wire. that, and what if one of the labels somehow gets ripped off? No, I think one color wire is def out of the equation.
I still have about 20 or so posts to figure out the locations of. I think the remaining ones mostly go in the T-Nuts I installed. just not sure yet what goes where. will have to look at the photos to see if I can tell better.
FYI, those pop bumper bodies are taller than OEM. You may run into an issue with the ramp hitting that top bumper. I went with these on my TAF rebuild:
They are the correct height. Bay Area Amusements used to carry the correct height bodies... not certain if they do anymore.
hmm, maybe I should make the ramp the first part bought on the road back in april. just to see if that is going to be the case.
The last part done for the break....got the proper hex head screws. all target screws changed out.
Also, like Doc brown, now prepared for any eventuality in the future emergency department.
90280867_10157781417860211_2888845593709379584_n (resized).jpg90298967_10157781429745211_8955763117246119936_n (resized).jpgSo, over the next few weeks, I can figure out exactly where these parts go to busy me as the bank account recovers a little
All the other posts are proper. and the lower three in the lower right go on the bookcase mount..
Even my dentist closed down for a few weeks heh. crazy world..
90352434_10157781881080211_5182764880356179968_n (resized).jpg
put a couple small c-clamps on that rotisserie for security.
the playfield gets really heavy as you add to it.
Quoted from Shredder565:I posted a lowes link earlier wondering what would be the best kind of c clamp to get...
Get a couple 3" regular c clamps
And maybe a set if the irwin hand/quick release ratchett clamps. The set comes with 6 assorted sizes. The tiny ones are not usable.
I have 2 of the 3" clamps as security.
I have had the quick clamps slip off a couple times.
Get a few of the samples for maple hardwood floors.
They are very handy to use under the c clamps. And they are free.
I use those hardwood squares for tons of things
Hey noticed a little part you will be using I have noticed in other pictures. Spacer spool and how they are used. Disregard the sizes and numbers. Didn’t see them in your parts.
6C5162C5-101C-4DF9-8C72-CD5DC580088C (resized).jpeg1D66471A-44F2-487D-B367-23ACB4A4F027 (resized).jpeg9E5669E7-F7FF-474E-83BB-E2F7D0CF3730 (resized).jpegQuoted from pinballinreno:Get a couple 3" regular c clamps
And maybe a set if the irwin hand/quick release ratchett clamps. The set comes with 6 assorted sizes. The tiny ones are not usable.
I have 2 of the 3" clamps as security.
I have had the quick clamps slip off a couple times.
Get a few of the samples for maple hardwood floors.
They are very handy to use under the c clamps. And they are free.
I use those hardwood squares for tons of things
So something like this?
Quoted from bssbllr:Hey noticed a little part you will be using I have noticed in other pictures. Spacer spool and how they are used. Disregard the sizes and numbers. Didn’t see them in your parts.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
THAT's more what I'm looking for on the info front.
Now that I know what cover goes over that part, I can more easily identify the part in other photos.
I noticed that I could use this trend with another part earlier and found the three remaining places for the two pieces that sit next to the electric chair .
thanks
Here is a TAF restore with some good pics.
http://thearcademan.net/the-addams-family-pinball-restoration/
Quoted from bssbllr:Here is a TAF restore with some good pics.
http://thearcademan.net/the-addams-family-pinball-restoration/
that was one of the first ones I found actually searching around .
it did help too .
Quoted from bssbllr:Hey noticed a little part you will be using I have noticed in other pictures. Spacer spool and how they are used. Disregard the sizes and numbers. Didn’t see them in your parts.[quoted image]
there are a few more spotted here. see, when they have the coverings on, they get confusing to a newcomer. cause it looks like there is a nut attached to the top of the plastic part. and when you see it that way, it doesn't look like the same part. but, now that I know that it is, I can more easily identify it in other photos
maybe I can get most of my other remaining parts attached tomorrow while I go shopping for c clamps.
IMG_8597 (resized).JPGNew day, stupid question.
I assumed the spacer spool posts went on the board with the nut facing down toward the board. is it really the other way around?
The post usually threads into a t-nut and sometimes have just a wood screw thread which isn’t very good or pass all the way through and have a nut under playfield depends on what is going there. And the nut does go on top of the space spool , the threads above will hold down plastics perhaps or ramps then another nut is installed. You would use the two nuts against each other to lightly tighten Down the top nut.
Like in your picture the four probably have the ramp resting on them Or plastics and another nut attached to the top to hold ramp in place. Or something like that.
well, the photo you provided, the first two definitely just sunk into the playfield. no t-nut and no nylon nut support on the bottom.
thankfully with the 8-32 tap, I was simply just able to screw them in and they can stay there until I get the cover for it.
So, with most of those identified, that just leaves the 02-4426-2 posts to find.
I also see where all the 'stars' plastic go..under the bottom bumpers for the most part. just not sure how those are installed.
my earthshaker restore had a mixture of those posts with a thread on the bottom and a self tapping screw on the bottom, most actually just screwed into the pf directly (nut at the top) and the others screwed into a t-nut underneath. The plastics then usually sit directly on top.
Quoted from russdx:my earthshaker restore had a mixture of those posts with a thread on the bottom and a self tapping screw on the bottom, most actually just screwed into the pf directly (nut at the top) and the others screwed into a t-nut underneath. The plastics then usually sit directly on top.
That was my next question looking at more photos...If the star plastics DO get installed this way, then I mixed up some of the other posts below, as those are all the twisty type posted in the image above. not the self tapping type.
Also, I am pretty sure that post in the t nut on the top of the playfield is supposed to go in the bigger hole too it's right, but i'm not sure how it's supposed to attach as there is no t nut on the bottom.
90011904_10157785262940211_4681044560527228928_n (resized).jpg90346978_10157785266745211_6550206875978170368_o (resized).jpg90356391_10157785262915211_7398671605104115712_n (resized).jpg
In your second to last photo, those tee nuts are not for topside components. The two pairs of top-facing tee nuts on each side of the playfield are for the hinge brackets, which are mounted to the bottom.
Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:In your second to last photo, those tee nuts are not for topside components. The two pairs of top-facing tee nuts on each side of the playfield are for the hinge brackets, which are mounted to the bottom.
Ok, that is what I thought. so that post DOES go into the hole next to it on the right.
just got to find out what it attaches too..assuming I was looking at the photo right.
I believe one star post In the front of the slingshot have t nuts under the playfield And the other has a t nut but is not a star post but some kind of post you could clarify on other pictures here’s a pic I believe the red arrows are showing that t nuts are in those spots.
606D153D-1483-4034-A105-E38DADFCFCDD (resized).jpeg
The two farthest from each other. The hole in the middle is the slingshot kicker. The two holes on either side will be the switches for the sling and the single hole will be a light. The screw is the back of the sling I believe is a self tap but double check first. Here is another pic.
21F550D4-B16E-40FC-B58B-BC235A294E75 (resized).pngWanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
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