(Topic ID: 257696)

Addams Family - Scratch Build?

By Shredder565

4 years ago


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  • 5,468 posts
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  • Latest reply 31 hours ago by Shredder565
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“This project is”

  • Ambitious 117 votes
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  • will be undone by a official remake in a few months..:) 27 votes
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There are 5,468 posts in this topic. You are on page 12 of 110.
#551 4 years ago
Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:

Great thread, one of my favorites right now
I have a bunch of NOS Addams parts that I should dig out when you are ready
cheers, Steve

agreed .

One part I'm looking for - the metal ramp that is a part of 'thing flips' and bear kick. and the ball guides on the lower left and right. I found one elsewhere, but might as well get a complete set . good start at least!

#552 4 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

No better time than now. I wish I had some myself.

I have extras : )

#553 4 years ago

removed the bumpers today. those'll stay off untill I have the complete set of parts. Don't think I can really attach anything else other than the rest of the posts...once I'm sure where they all go.

#554 4 years ago

My pop bumber bottoms shipped

#555 4 years ago

Pop Bumper bottoms arrive Thursday. putting in an order for the last of the posts as well as the pop bumper screws.
Also look what else arrived this month .

89038536_10157758336900211_6808180122357596160_n (resized).jpg89038536_10157758336900211_6808180122357596160_n (resized).jpg
#556 4 years ago

I don’t think that’s the right topper for TAF...

#557 4 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

I don’t think that’s the right topper for TAF...

It's about the same size though ;o)

Is this generally how you install the pop bumper screws? My pop bumper bottoms come today.
Once I get the screws, can I install all of it at once? I know there is a switch that activates them in the middle. Not sure if I can slide that in once it's all on, or just wait till I get the switch.

#558 4 years ago

I would also check the top side countersink area to make sure that it is slightly larger than the stud being installed. You want it to be flush or just below. If it’s smaller, you may also crack the clear coat by just smacking it in.

#559 4 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I would also check the top side countersink area to make sure that it is slightly larger than the stud being installed. You want it to be flush or just below. If it’s smaller, you may also crack the clear coat by just smacking it in.

it's def going to be smaller. I'm going to have to use my counter sink hole tool to try and get one right and hope I can do it the same way for all 15. oy.

#560 4 years ago

Good call. You can practice on a hole under a plastic and try your first ones furthest back. They'll mostly be covered by the skirt but you can still see them slightly.

The risk isn’t just tapping them in but also when tightening the screws as the studs sink into the playfield.

#561 4 years ago

You can add the switches in later as they will be part of your switch loom.

#562 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

You can add the switches in later as they will be part of your switch loom.

perfect. just what I was hoping for...

Pop Bumper Bottoms are smaller than I thought they'd be.
But, got a two-fer today.
89077595_10157761650675211_6637399848867856384_n (resized).jpg89077595_10157761650675211_6637399848867856384_n (resized).jpg

Also, what size screws are used for the target installs? maybe I can get the blue ones(g/R) in tomorrow just to see how that goes with one set.

#563 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

Also, what size screws are used for the target installs?

#6 x 1/2" hex head. Typically considered sheet metal screws, but from my experience, they match what is typically used for playfield mounting.
You will also want to acquire 3/8" of the same type, for mounting thinner items such as wire attachment tabs. This prevents the screw tip from breaking out into the visible play area when the screw is run in that much closer to the wood.

#564 4 years ago
Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:

#6 x 1/2" hex head. Typically considered sheet metal screws, but from my experience, they match what is typically used for playfield mounting.
You will also want to acquire 3/8" of the same type, for mounting thinner items such as wire attachment tabs. This prevents the screw tip from breaking out into the visible play area when the screw is run in that much closer to the wood.

going to mcmaster carr right now.

I did my first test install of the two targets just to see how they go in. and I didn't break through the top of the wood thanks to a little drilling trick I saw online with masking tape being used to show how far left you have to go to reach the end.

the one on the left isn't tightened yet as my hand started to get a bit tired manually doing it heh.
It's starting to look a little like a pinball machine at least now
89259802_10157764084430211_2921629306713014272_o (resized).jpg89259802_10157764084430211_2921629306713014272_o (resized).jpg

#565 4 years ago

the other question, what type of nut is usually used to lock the posts into place?

The ones I have are clearly not proper, as they will come loose over time with serious play and not the same ones posted in the video above. I want to order a bunch of those too.

#566 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

theo ther question, what type of nut is usually used to lock the bolts into place?
The ones I have are clearly not proper, as they will come loose over time with serious play and not the same ones posted in the video above. I want to order a bunch of those too.

“nyloc” nuts ... they have a nylon insert in them to keep them locked.

#567 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

KEP nuts... they have a nylon insert in them to keep them locked.

https://www.mcmaster.com/k-lock-hex-nuts

Am I in the right place?

#568 4 years ago

Not KEP that was my error, not sure why I typed that. You need nylon insert lock nuts

#569 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Not KEP that was my error, not sure why I typed that. You need nylon insert lock nuts

Cool

That does look a little more right.
https://www.mcmaster.com/nylon-insert-locknuts

#571 4 years ago

ok, ordered the two screws, and some 8-32/6-32/10-32 nuts just to cover all the bases..

be here tomorrow

#572 4 years ago

So, I've been scrounging pictures to figure out where my remaining 02-4003 bumpers go... and I think they go on the bookcase. I kept on feeling like I was missing sections of image on where they went.

I feel a little better now knowing I don't have extras.

#573 4 years ago

I’d recommend getting the “big bag of everything “ in your next Pinball Life order. This bag of miscellaneous hardware has saved me numerous trips to the hardware store.

https://www.pinballlife.com/big-bag-of-everything.html

#574 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

I’d recommend getting the “big bag of everything “ in your next Pinball Life order. This bag of miscellaneous hardware has saved me numerous trips to the hardware store.
https://www.pinballlife.com/big-bag-of-everything.html

added onto the list.

My Pop Bumper screws come tommorow. I could give one of those suckers a try tomorrow as I secure all my targets into place.

#575 4 years ago

nothing is secured yet. I will replace them with the proper screws tomorrow.

But, it's all in it's proper place. And I will probably place the chair scoop on too.

It's starting to look like something!

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#576 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

nothing is secured yet. I will replace them with the proper screws tomorrow.
But, it's all in it's proper place. And I will probably place the chair scoop on too.
It's starting to look like something![quoted image]

Use better clamps on your rotisserie.

As the playfield gets heavier you want either c-clamps or high end ratchet clamps.

C-clamps offer the best security, just use a small piece of paint stirring stick to protect the surface.

I try to put a single bolt and nut thru the playfiled on each side with a washer if I can find a hole, to add security.

I have had playfields slip when turning before, they get heavy.

#577 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Use better clamps on your rotisserie.
As the playfield gets heavier you want either c-clamps or ratchet clamps.
C-clamps offer the best security, just use a small piece of stirring stick to protect the surface.

I saw the clamps had to have some kind of rubber on them to protect the play field, because stuff sinks in. as mentioned above. That's why I used those suckers for now. But, I'll add that to the list of things to get.

#578 4 years ago

KITT will never look pro..but at least he'll look a little better. yesterday took out all the screws.. temporarily glued in the pieces. Will figure out a better way to secure them later. but for now, at least screws arn't sticking out the bottom of the dash. compared to trying to figure this out, the pinball has been easier so far ;o)

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#579 4 years ago

Pop Bumper screws arrive today. Screws and lock nuts arrive today.

First order of business is to get the targets with the proper screws in.
Second order is to replace all the regular nuts on the posts with the new nuts.

Third order of business is to try my first pop bumper screw, to see how hard that will be done. maybe I can get at least one pop bumper assembled properly today.

I think I am going to hold off buying for a while. trying for a three week break. If I get anything, it will be one item at a time and under $100's. like a ramp.

#580 4 years ago

step 1 done, step 2 in progress.

Proper screws in targets. all nice and stable. proper nuts going on. chair scoop installed.

awaiting pop bumper screw arrival. how's it look?

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#581 4 years ago

Might be uncomfortable soldering those targets already installed. Or it might be good that you don't need a third hand to hold them while soldering....

#582 4 years ago
Quoted from loneacer:

Might be uncomfortable soldering those targets already installed. Or it might be good that you don't need a third hand to hold them while soldering....

I'm hoping for the latter.

One of the swamp targets is a little crooked...but shouldn't be too hard to straighten out.
89808526_10157767653370211_570314731412258816_o (resized).jpg89808526_10157767653370211_570314731412258816_o (resized).jpg

#583 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

step 1 done, step 2 in progress.
Proper screws in targets. all nice and stable. proper nuts going on. chair scoop installed.
awaiting pop bumper screw arrival. how's it look?[quoted image]

The screws are actually incorrect. They should be hex headed.

#584 4 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

The screws are actually incorrect. They should be hex headed.

crap. right size/length wrong head.

would those still be ok though? they are perfectly tight and secure.

#585 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

crap. right size/length wrong head.
would those still be ok though? they are perfectly tight and secure.

They'd work, but better to make everything look original with all the time you're putting into this.

#586 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

crap. right size/length wrong head.
would those still be ok though? they are perfectly tight and secure.

They're fine. Wrong....but fine.

#587 4 years ago

I'd buy a buttload of hex head screws. You're gonna need 'em. I have a TAF here that I restored from the ground up. I'm happy to answer a question or send a photo of something when you need it. Good luck with the project!

#588 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

step 1 done, step 2 in progress.
Proper screws in targets. all nice and stable. proper nuts going on. chair scoop installed.
awaiting pop bumper screw arrival. how's it look?[quoted image]

Can't you join for a local pinhead's pinball teardown party?
You can learn a lot about sequences, screws, posts, and all the methods used in WPC games. This helps a lot for your own build.

#589 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Can't you join for a local pinhead's pinball teardown party?
You can learn a lot about sequences, screws, posts, and all the methods used in WPC games. This helps a lot for your own build.

It would help, but travel is tough. unless it's really easy to get too, chances are my OCD wouldn't like it. I tend to get super nervous going new places even with GPS.

We used to have a few addams at local arcades down here, but the few left sandy wiped out. at least the ones I knew of. Barnacle Bills in Ortley had one for years until they finally got rid of it.. and flash backs in seaside got destroyed by storm them fire.

#590 4 years ago

Like others have said gotta be the hex screws and a really good hex driver, once all the hardware is in and you gotta swap something you will be glad you used the hex screws and not Phillips

#591 4 years ago

any of this stuff help you ?
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#592 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

Like others have said gotta be the hex screws and a really good hex driver, once all the hardware is in and you gotta swap something you will be glad you used the hex screws and not Phillips

I'll get some hex screws before I close up ordering shop today .

one nice thing about mcmaster is they are local so next day shipping

#593 4 years ago

Have you seen the links I PM'd you? There are some caches of TAF parts on craigslist.

#594 4 years ago

yep .
sadly I can't afford to swing the circuit boards now . otherwise it'd be a no brainer..

#595 4 years ago

Alright.

Step 2 done. All Posts attached currently are secured. they ain't going nowhere.

First Pop Bumper Bolt done.

It doesn't look too flush yet, but not sure if I should try to twist it in any further.. I want to see h ow this one looks before any modifications are made.
I tried the hammering, but I didn't trust myself not to bust anything. so, what I did was tap the hole just a little close to the size of the bolt...and then hammer it in so it went in a tad softer. I know that's NOT how you are supposed to do things...but I wonder what you thought of the idea. the bolt is secure enough in there.. it's just not entirely flush.
I also didn't have a washer for the first test one. But can add it later... and def for the others.

89398091_10157768120325211_5650782385654988800_o (resized).jpg89398091_10157768120325211_5650782385654988800_o (resized).jpg89904615_10157768117110211_6239132298923474944_n (resized).jpg89904615_10157768117110211_6239132298923474944_n (resized).jpg

#596 4 years ago

Might need to counter sink the hole slightly?

Also on the under side you will put the mech on first then the nuts

#597 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

Might need to counter sink the hole slightly?
Also on the under side you will put the mech on first then the nuts

counter sinking was the first thing I did. I did it as far as I could judge it by eye, and lined the top of the bolt up with the hole to see how close I got. guess it wasn't as close as it seemed.

I can try and take it out again on monday and see if counter sinking it a little more can help.

#598 4 years ago
Quoted from luch:

any of this stuff help you ?

I don't mind ordering new from mcmaster. i use bolts and nuts so much for prop projects, a bag of a hundred tends to go by rather quick.

.

#599 4 years ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

I don't mind ordering new from mcmaster. i use bolts and nuts so much for prop projects, a bag of a hundred tends to go by rather quick.

no problem

#600 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

Might need to counter sink the hole slightly?
Also on the under side you will put the mech on first then the nuts

just a add on so no one think I missed this part .
and yeah. this was just test sink to see how close I got to the surface with the countersink drill. I've never done one of these bolts before, so I didn't want to even risk attaching half a thing on it if it was going to come off anyway .

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