Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992Will you be using a rotisserie? If not I’d suggest you get all the parts for the back added whilst you can lay it flat. Once almost complete you can flip over and start populating the front with it standing up.
Deffo be easier with rotisserie though as you can just parts as you get them front or back.
Ground braid next (does Adams have it? I’d have to check lol) you will want to put in the pop bumper screws as well as they are pretty nasty and scary to hammer in 
I was thinking about the rotisserie. Some of the videos I've seen have the board standing on metal plate/rods. that are about 12 inches or so in length. there are at least four of them that I saw. I assumg this helps the board sit i nthe machine. that would be alot easier than havinga rotisserie around as a space saver.....would it work as well if I started the bottom first?
I could just flip it around and have it stand on it's own power.
put in another order for most of the remaining metal and plastic posts and star posts..only missing a handful of 'em now.
In a week or two, I'll get the Color DMD, and I think one or two of the CPU boards out of the way.I'll buy a few more parts before I think of putting anything else on at the moment.
they didn't have purple opaque so got something close.
Bumper post 8-32 stud dual ring 02-4423 3 $3.95 $11.85
Post stud 8-32 x 2-1/16 inches 6-32 top 02-4424-1 10 $2.75 $27.50
Post stud 8-32 x 2-3/8 inches 5/16 drive 02-4425-1 1 $2.79 $2.79
Post spacer #8 x 1-3/16" 02-4435 2 $1.95 $3.90
Post spacer #8 x 1 inch 02-4434 2 $3.99 $7.98
Hex spacer 1/4 inch f-f 8-32 x 1-7/16 inch 02-4436-15 2 $1.95 $1.69 $3.38
Hex spacer 1/4" f-f 8-32 x 1-1/2" 02-4436-7 1 $2.90 $2.90
Post - star blue transparent 1-1/16 inch 03-8319-10 2 $0.79 $1.58
Post - star double clear 1-1/16 inch tall 03-8247-13 12 $0.80 $9.60
Quoted from Shredder565:I was thinking about the rotisserie. Some of the videos I've seen have the board standing on metal plate/rods. that are about 12 inches or so in length. there are at least four of them that I saw. I assumg this helps the board sit i nthe machine. that would be alot easier than havinga rotisserie around as a space saver.....would it work as well if I started the bottom first?
I could just flip it around and have it stand on it's own power.
I know shit about new builds or playfield swaps, but a rotisserie seems essential!
Good luck on this project, definitely keeping track of your work! 
Curious to see how you manufacture all the ball guides and wire forms. Cause those are unobtainium unless you found someone selling off parts from a scrap machine.
Quoted from EricHadley:Curious to see how you manufacture all the ball guides and wire forms. Cause those are unobtainium unless you found someone selling off parts from a scrap machine.
made my own yesterday actually
addams_guides_flat (resized).jpg
addams_guides_installed (resized).jpg
wireform laid out just need to weld the joints then it is done too.
Quoted from wesman:I know shit about new builds or playfield swaps, but a rotisserie seems essential!
Good luck on this project, definitely keeping track of your work!
It saves so much hassle.. it’s a quick build and worth it. I’d collect all the parts for the pf first, then build it. You don’t want it sitting around for 3 years 1/4, then 1/2 then 3/4 populated. Will get dusty , and potential for shit to break if you knock it over, etc. when you’re installing stuff topside, I’d also consider putting tools on a towel on it and using the towel in situations you’re tightening stuff where you could potentially slip and scratch the clear. Also make sure you have the right tools to install.. hollow shaft hex 1/4” and 5/16 are must have.
Hello to the brave ones,I have build Tafg ,is made from scratch with nos and new parts ,but i had to find lane guides used and used all boards in great shape ,
Wiring that I see a lot to worry is very simple and can be made from the same color code of any game that is Williams or Bally the same era or after 1986.
Your best friend will be only the manual
.
I have also upgraded the Taf gold with fliptronic 2 board and Optos instead of leaf contacts for the flippers and also no need for the flipper aux board.
Pictures over the internet If you can find from a restoration really help,
Now the best part ,I have personally never had the opportunity to find a helping Taf to copy paste and help me out,or even played it unfortunately,so just waiting for it to be complete and play was making me more motivated.
Keep building guys it is FUN!!
19507394-D265-4F33-843F-E25B44C9C74A (resized).jpeg258AE156-C009-4778-820D-45D94A65AB63 (resized).jpeg09355C27-43FB-4B07-891A-5320F7B7A610 (resized).jpeg0B1203BC-7710-4EED-A492-C539EC9B9E51 (resized).jpeg2826D8D5-16B4-4AAF-9589-1294A93C7B49 (resized).jpeg550BC27A-C4F9-4F8B-80A6-BF417DDD09EE (resized).jpeg9AAC0C33-BDB2-4E44-8000-650A1516573D (resized).jpegB57398BD-F126-488C-BEB6-8F70F9E6F53F (resized).jpegC3F8F4A0-1C87-4E6B-A294-4F890E141B98 (resized).jpegC8C96A98-C0A3-487E-B62A-DF85BB2693A8 (resized).jpegI wish I had the skill to make stuff from scratch. The best I can do is recreate something in CGI.
Ordering a few more cheaper items. Just got a complete set of new targets. Addams Family / Addams Family Gold (Bally) Standup Target Switch Set (11pcs)
Item# TS1005 And Will probably get either 5 pop bumper bottoms....or the subway chute and thing lower box next.
At the end of march comes the DMD and boards..
So, I mean, you can’t sell this thing right? It’s a fake and would be a copyright infringement, akin to copying a VHS tape and selling it on the street.......
Youd save a lot of shipping Costs on all the available stuff if you just made a full list of parts, then wait until you have the cash for a full order from Marco, and then other companies (or whoever you want to start with) who have other parts Marco didn’t, etc. and while you save cash for that, be watching eBay, Pinside, cL, wherever for the rare / unobtainium stuff.
Quoted from EricHadley:Illegal copy for your own use
Not at all. He's using licensed items, used items and self manufactured items to build a machine. He's not a manufacturer, and he's not marketing it as an original or remade version of anything.
It's akin to the various motorcycles that are Harley clones. You can build a motorcycle that is functionally identical to a Fatbob, and Harley would have zero to say. You could sell it, too, even hundreds of them in this case, as long as you aren't marketing them as Harley brand. That's the reason all of those Harley clone garages can be in business, and companies like S&S can make clone Evo parts.
In this case, the closest you could get would be a copyright claim on the ROM image. And if he uses an original WPC mpu or a licensed replacement, then he even avoids that. Even trademark claims would not likely stick if he were not party to the manufacture of items for sale. And I doubt that there are any patents on the particular pieces in AF.
Depending on how authentic you are going for...The bolts were custom made (Most likely at the factory), most of them are 1/4"x1 1/8", That's a half size if you dont know bolts, and if that wasn't bad enough the heads are smooth with no casting marks, replacements are available but are not the same...Mine were all heat baked from the fire and had to be replaced. I had to cut them to length, file the heads, and since the plating was compromised at that point, sent them out for triple chrome, sandblasted the heads and painted them with etch primer, and black acrylic...The process was not fast or cheap.
Quoted from Mbecker:Youd save a lot of shipping Costs on all the available stuff if you just made a full list of parts, then wait until you have the cash for a full order from Marco, and then other companies (or whoever you want to start with) who have other parts Marco didn’t, etc. and while you save cash for that, be watching eBay, Pinside, cL, wherever for the rare / unobtainium stuff.
yeah, this is something I'm trying to keep in mind as well.
I will try and wait until funds are spareable to join as many orders as possible together. But, If I can order a few small parts here and there at one time....sometimes it's best to get them while they are still available.
case in point, just got an email saying from the place I ordered the targets from...the websites stock was off any my target order is delayed a week due to one target being out of stock for a few days. go fig .
sometimes it's always best to get things when they are available as you never know when they are going to be available again .
I think the simpsons predicted this in 2005 ;o)
So, I'm watching this video to try and get an idea on where all my posts properly go since I don't have a machine in front of me and I can't find a decent image showcasing all of them... I really hope I don't have to do that much extra drilling on this sucker .
I didn’t document my own as well, but this should show you most post locations.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-nutty-playfield-swap-taf-edition#post-1286728
You dont want to drill anything until you have ALL your parts friend...One mistake and it's not easily fixed.
Quoted from Shredder565:I wish I had the skill to make stuff from scratch. The best I can do is recreate something in CGI.
Ordering a few more cheaper items. Just got a complete set of new targets. Addams Family / Addams Family Gold (Bally) Standup Target Switch Set (11pcs)
Item# TS1005 And Will probably get either 5 pop bumper bottoms....or the subway chute and thing lower box next.
At the end of march comes the DMD and boards..
If you create something in CGI, you can do the metal form layouts in CAD and have someone cut them in an NC machine. You could also CAD the Thing hand and have someone 3D print it (or get your own printer).
Quoted from Shredder565:case in point, from the images and video I saw, this goes here. but doesn't fit all the way. i'm assuming i might have to drill some of them a little to fit properly.[quoted image]
Yes. You'll have to drill a number of through holes as the clear has seeped into them.
Quoted from jorro:Be sure to use a new and verry sharp drill
I just ordered brand new dewalt drill set. all set to go on that front. including my first whole saw set (doubt I'll need it, but I like to be prepared )
I would not use any sort of twist drill to do this work!!! It requires a bit of finesse.
Ron Kruzman sells a nice dremel/glue install kit for dealing with cleaning clear coat out of the mounting holes of a playfield.
Seriously if you hit this with run of the mill twist drill bits you will regret it.
Quoted from Ricochet:I would not use any sort of twist drill to do this work!!! It requires a bit of finesse.
Ron Kruzman sells a nice dremel/glue install kit for dealing with cleaning clear coat out of the mounting holes of a playfield.
Seriously if you hit this with a run of the mill twist drill bits you will regret it.
No offense, but I do it all the time. The best thing to have is a set that goes in 1/64th increments. I have two. The one pictured is my rough set. I have another for finer finishing work like on playfields.
The key is to not remove too much at one time. I find the bit that just fits the hole, then use the next largest. I continue this way until I've got the hole I want.
Again, the key is the bit size. You want one with 64's.
C890A250-509A-4601-9C6B-794A48697194_1_105_c (resized).jpegQuoted from Bryan_Kelly:No offense, but I do it all the time. The best thing to have is a set that goes in 1/64th increments. I have two. The one pictured is my rough set. I have another for finer finishing work like on playfields.
The key is to not remove too much at one time. I find the bit that just fits the hole, then use the next largest. I continue this way until I've got the hole I want.
Again, the key is the bit size. You want one with 64's.[quoted image]
None taken Bryan... You have a method here that works and you are very good at what you do. You are absolutely right by going in small increments.
Quoted from Ricochet:None taken Bryan... You have a method here that works and you are very good at what you do. You are absolutely right by going in small increments.
Another thing you can do is before you drill forward, drill backwards for a couple of seconds.
I would tend to agree, (And those bits are rough bits not finish work)...However new and sharp also helps, The clear can be pulled off the playfield (Chipped) using a dull bit...A rotisserie is what you should be building at this point however...I built (overbuilt) one using 2 portable car engine stands, and a stainless crosslink, Around (600.00 us), and got to say it is heavy, really solid if you are thinking some cheesy wooden frame thing you may want to consider an upgrade here.
Quoted from Shredder565:the dremel I already have..one with varying speeds....what type of bit would work?
I used bits from a set like this. I wouldn't go near a $1000 playfield with a drill. I've ruined enough cheaper things with one.
https://www.amazon.com/SE-82331TF-30-Piece-Titanium-Coated-Diamond/dp/B000P49BX8/ref=sr_1_7
So, I found an old thread on the marco rotisserie.
The jury seemed out on the time. has time been any kinder to buying it?
So, just for ha ha's, I tried just ONE piece. What I did was took a tap set drill bit and VERY carefully twisted until the hole was big enough and it fit right in perfectly.
I don't know if I'd do this for all of them, but for ONE it worked just fine.
88100627_10157737600920211_8470849601446871040_n (resized).jpgNow it dont fit back in the box, The safest place for it while you source ALL your parts first...You are pretty much committed at this point.
i think i was already when i sprung $1500 up front for the cabinet! oh well.. might as order the marco rotisserie thursday too while i'm at it.
the opinions on it seemed 60/50 in that old thread.
has anyone tried to build this one?
For under $100, and getting all the parts neeed at home depot tommorow..yeah. that's hopefully easier
there is also this option I can try.....stuff to give a shot on Friday or Thursday if anyone can recomend one or the other
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/just-in-case-you-havent-built-a-rotisserie-yet
I built one out of a couple of sawhorses that I picked up for free. Took about $20 and an hour on top of that.
Quoted from BobLangelius:Shredder
If you feel like coming to Trumbull to get it, you can borrow my rotisserie. It’s one like vids
Bob
I could also meet you in White Plains during the day
You can still have mine if you feel like a trip to w.p.
Jenn would have to say both those would work, but the one in the video seems a bit more stable, and not so big, Thatonedude and the sawhorses also work if you got the space...Whatever you choose you will be glad you did.
Quoted from JIMAKOST:Hello to the brave ones,I have build Tafg ,is made from scratch with nos and new parts ,but i had to find lane guides used and used all boards in great shape ,
Wiring that I see a lot to worry is very simple and can be made from the same color code of any game that is Williams or Bally the same era or after 1986.
Your best friend will be only the manual.
I have also upgraded the Taf gold with fliptronic 2 board and Optos instead of leaf contacts for the flippers and also no need for the flipper aux board.
Pictures over the internet If you can find from a restoration really help,
Now the best part ,I have personally never had the opportunity to find a helping Taf to copy paste and help me out,or even played it unfortunately,so just waiting for it to be complete and play was making me more motivated.
Keep building guys it is FUN!![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That is really nice, but you need to change the left slingshot plastic. Look at her head and compare to original, looks deformed.
As soon as I noticed that on mine I sourced a nos one, I can now relax again.
yeah, i do like the one in the video a little better due to size....
but apparently we have all the pipe we need in the warehouse already..so it looks like it may be the other one. one of the benefits of working in an electrical contract company.
Added over 4 years ago:bought five pop bumper assemblies...
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