What harness did you remove? If you replug it do they work again?

All of those switches are on the same column in the switch matrix: column 3, a green-orange wire.

Marc

If you re plug it does it work again?

OK. Next up: that wire connects to connector J206 pin 3 in the backbox. Go find it. Make sure that wire isn't broken or lose in the connector. If it's there and solid, check continuity from the backbox connector to each switch in column 3. Follow the green-orange wire--when they are all out, it's usually simple. You just have to find it.

Marc

(Make sure the game is off when you do this)

I am using this to show me what switches are in that column and where they connect.

http://pinball.thewolfden.org/TAF/manual/Addams_Family_PARTS.pdf

Game off.

Pull J206 from the board. Get a meter set to continuity. Put one lead on pin 3 of the connector housing where the green-orange wire is and touch the other lead to the first switch in the column (physically follow the wire from the backbox to the first switch)

Do you get a beep?
If not, you have a break or a bad solder connector between the backbox connector and the first physical switch.

If you do get a beep, repeat this from each point the green-orange wire touches from switch to switch.

This is just to rule out wiring. It could be something else, but start simple.

Marc

Then you likely have a break between the first and second switches. They are daisy chained in a matrix. A break between switch 1 and 2 will take out 2-8 in one fell swoop.

Check for continuity with your meter between the switches until you find it.

You can do this!

Test both wires on the switch. There is a green wire and a white wire. They both have to be connected from switch to switch.

Sorry. Work distracted. Need a bit.

You should be able to get continuity from the back box green-orange wire to each switch on the same column (Column 3 in this case). The white wires are different for each switch in the column (check out the PDF I linked before), so, no, you won't get continuity from white to white for the switches in question since each white wire is different. (Columns go up and down and share a wire, but you get a different white-banded wire for each of those switches.

So, I guess the question is: do you get continuity from the back box to each green-orange switch in Column 3 or not?

Marc

I am afraid that I am out of my depth on this one since it's not a simple case of a wire being broken/unsoldered from a switch. The Pinwiki is excellent and has a bunch of things you can try:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Switch_Problems

Marc

Sorry, one more question... Does this switch work in Switch Test (upper left loop)? It's important to know if all of column 3 is out (which could be a CPU issue), or just some of the column is out (which still feels like a wiring issue...)
Marc

OK. That's a good piece of information. There is a section on the Pinwiki that covers testing columns with test leads. It's under "Debugging direct switch problems". That said, if you're not comfortable there, you can always send the board out for repair to a pro (Rob Anthony, Chris Hibler, Clive, etc.).

Marc

Bump, because I am so curious.

Take a flashlight (non LED, a real bulb) and shine it into the opto receiver while in switch test. If the game recognizes the flashlight, then your transmitter LED may be at fault.

If it's the transmitter, you can view it with a digital camera viewfinder which will allow you to see it glow purple when on. If it's not glowing, check for simple stuff like bad solder joints on the little transmitter opto board. If it's not any of those, you can replace the opto boards, they are very cheap, or if you're handy and feel like it, the opto itself is available online for a buck or so.

Marc

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Opto_Testing