(Topic ID: 94048)

Addams Family Pop Bumpers and slings not working, Help!

By thadawkins

4 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 35 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by thadawkins
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders


Linked Games

#1 4 years ago

So i had issues with the Thing Flips optos not working so i took out the transmitter and disconnected the harness under the playfield. Now my Pop Bumpers and Slings don't work. I have checked for loose wires and there are none. Went through the solenoid test and all the solenoids fire but the switches are not registering for any of them. Checked all the fuses and everything is good. Kind of stumped at this point and at a stand still. Any help would be awesome. Thanks

#2 4 years ago

What harness did you remove? If you replug it do they work again?

All of those switches are on the same column in the switch matrix: column 3, a green-orange wire.


#3 4 years ago

i removed the harness for the opto transmitter under the playfield

#4 4 years ago

If you re plug it does it work again?

#5 4 years ago

No it doesnt

#6 4 years ago

it seems to me that the switches are not working. None of them activate when i press them in the switch test

#7 4 years ago

OK. Next up: that wire connects to connector J206 pin 3 in the backbox. Go find it. Make sure that wire isn't broken or lose in the connector. If it's there and solid, check continuity from the backbox connector to each switch in column 3. Follow the green-orange wire--when they are all out, it's usually simple. You just have to find it.


#8 4 years ago

(Make sure the game is off when you do this)

#9 4 years ago

I am using this to show me what switches are in that column and where they connect.


#10 4 years ago


Lots of great info in this thread as well i suspect. Looks like Schonb25 has it covered too.

#11 4 years ago

i have followed the green/orange to all of the switches in that matrix diagram and can't find broken wires. I am assuming that it would be right at the beginning if all of them are out right?

#12 4 years ago

I am getting 12v on the first upper left loop switch but after that none of the switches have power

#13 4 years ago

Game off.

Pull J206 from the board. Get a meter set to continuity. Put one lead on pin 3 of the connector housing where the green-orange wire is and touch the other lead to the first switch in the column (physically follow the wire from the backbox to the first switch)

Do you get a beep?
If not, you have a break or a bad solder connector between the backbox connector and the first physical switch.

If you do get a beep, repeat this from each point the green-orange wire touches from switch to switch.

This is just to rule out wiring. It could be something else, but start simple.


#14 4 years ago
Quoted from thadawkins:

I am getting 12v on the first upper left loop switch but after that none of the switches have power

Then you likely have a break between the first and second switches. They are daisy chained in a matrix. A break between switch 1 and 2 will take out 2-8 in one fell swoop.

Check for continuity with your meter between the switches until you find it.

You can do this!

#15 4 years ago

i get continuity from switch to switch

#16 4 years ago

Test both wires on the switch. There is a green wire and a white wire. They both have to be connected from switch to switch.

#17 4 years ago

So you are saying to check continuity from the white wire to white wire? I do not have continuity with the white wires, only the green ones

#18 4 years ago

Do the switches have to be "closed" for continuity to happen between the white wires?

#19 4 years ago

Sorry. Work distracted. Need a bit.

#20 4 years ago

i get continuity from the back box to the first switch for both green/orange and white wires. The switch doesnt register in test mode though, that confuses me

#21 4 years ago

You should be able to get continuity from the back box green-orange wire to each switch on the same column (Column 3 in this case). The white wires are different for each switch in the column (check out the PDF I linked before), so, no, you won't get continuity from white to white for the switches in question since each white wire is different. (Columns go up and down and share a wire, but you get a different white-banded wire for each of those switches.

So, I guess the question is: do you get continuity from the back box to each green-orange switch in Column 3 or not?


#22 4 years ago

Yes I do

#23 4 years ago

Did you look at each fuse or test each fuse?

#24 4 years ago

I looked at the fuses and didn't find any blown ones. I will test them in a min

#25 4 years ago

I am afraid that I am out of my depth on this one since it's not a simple case of a wire being broken/unsoldered from a switch. The Pinwiki is excellent and has a bunch of things you can try:



#26 4 years ago
Quoted from thadawkins:

I am getting 12v on the first upper left loop switch but after that none of the switches have power

Sorry, one more question... Does this switch work in Switch Test (upper left loop)? It's important to know if all of column 3 is out (which could be a CPU issue), or just some of the column is out (which still feels like a wiring issue...)

#27 4 years ago

The upper left loop switch doesn't register in test mode. Must be a board issue from what I've been reading

#28 4 years ago

OK. That's a good piece of information. There is a section on the Pinwiki that covers testing columns with test leads. It's under "Debugging direct switch problems". That said, if you're not comfortable there, you can always send the board out for repair to a pro (Rob Anthony, Chris Hibler, Clive, etc.).


#29 4 years ago

Let's summarize.
None of the switches in column 3 work in switch test.
You have continuity from the MPU connector to each switch in the column.
This points to an MPU problem.
But, it is odd that the problem began after you worked on the thing optos.
Were you working on the game with power on?

A logic probe would be my tool of choice for the next steps. If you don't have one, set your DMM to DC volts.

Measure DC power between the MPU pin on J206 for the failed column.
Game on and in attract mode.
Remove all connectors on the MPU bottom except the one with all orange wires.
Black lead on the backbox ground braid.
Red lead on pins of J206. Compare the voltage on the "failed" pin to the pins on each side of the failed pin. If close, the problem probably lies elsewhere. If there is a big difference, you have a board issue.

Let us know what you find.

Nice work so far. You can rule out fuses. No need to test them.
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#30 4 years ago

Bump, because I am so curious.

#31 4 years ago

It was a board issue. I ended up buying a new MPU which wasn't that much. I am sure it was the U14 MPU which was the only one not replaced. I am sending the board in for repair. Thanks for the help!

#32 4 years ago

Now I am having an issue with the lower opto in the Thing Hand not registering.

#33 4 years ago

Take a flashlight (non LED, a real bulb) and shine it into the opto receiver while in switch test. If the game recognizes the flashlight, then your transmitter LED may be at fault.

If it's the transmitter, you can view it with a digital camera viewfinder which will allow you to see it glow purple when on. If it's not glowing, check for simple stuff like bad solder joints on the little transmitter opto board. If it's not any of those, you can replace the opto boards, they are very cheap, or if you're handy and feel like it, the opto itself is available online for a buck or so.


#35 4 years ago

Thanks Schnob. I tested and got continuity from the wiring in the backbox and the wiring that goes to the opto board for both lines on the switch matrix. I just ordered the whole opto board for $30.

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