Addams Family Gold Mod Question

(Topic ID: 232121)

Addams Family Gold Mod Question


By sldwaa

3 months ago



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  • 40 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 37 days ago by sldwaa
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#1 3 months ago

I am looking at purchasing a gold machine and all looks pretty good as far as authentic for two machines I am evaluating (playfield (not diamond stamped), serial decal, colors, trim, extra ball button, plaque, etc). The only thing that looks out of place are the bumpers on one unit, they were replaced (the other has original bumpers). Does this affect value? I am attaching a photo of the modified machine, although it is not very clear. Any comments?

Second question, one is not coming with the certificate however I can buy one online which will print the machine number. I assume the 1,000 certs which were printed did NOT have original signatures, correct(?), and that they were mass produced just indexing the machine number?

Last question, does the machine number matter? One is in the 70's and one is in the 480's. Does it matter which one I buy - I believe some may have been made for EU (230v. 50hz) and later converted to US standards. Comments?

There is $500 separating the prices between the two and I want to make the purchase which makes the most sense. I do want to make up my mind in the next day or so.

Thanks!

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#2 3 months ago

I have a pin which was originally set for the Netherlands! The coin mech was set for kroners! It was converted to a gold without really being one! The gold bumpers were a add-on mod as well.the originals being a tan color! If you can get a original "Gold"TAF,by all means do so!IMHO!!!!

#3 3 months ago

Check out this link for the Addams Gold owners list and read where Larry DeMar says that the European Games went out first so that would be correct that the one which you say is in the 70’s was in fact early production.

http://hem.bredband.net/b257182/TAFGlist.htm

I would look hard at the playfield between the two and go for the game with the better one as all other parts you can get if needed but that. Also, I guess does either have matching boards if that matters to you?

Finally, can either game be picked up in person as I guess shipping could affect your final cost if not.

#4 3 months ago

Definately try to get the one made for the USA 110 volt. It will have a decal in the cabinet and outside saying 110v. Keep the game as original as possible.

#5 3 months ago

Great comments, did not think of the coin mechanism... The one from the lower series number (230v, 50 hz) has matching boards, and the old style bumpers (tan) however the transformer was replaced and machine converted to US. The higher series number was built for US, and has the modified bumpers (gold). I have also asked about matching board numbers and am waiting on hearing back today on this (hopefully). So, all that being said, what I am hearing is that if the boards on the newer (higher rev) are matching, go with that one provided the playfields are not too different. Does this sound right? Also, both are pickup, one is a 2 hour drive and one a 5 hour drive, but worth every mile to get this bad boy.

#6 3 months ago

Those pop caps are not the correct ones. You can do a quick search to see what the original colors are like. It's a kind of mustardy yellow. Should match thing box and bookcase.

The differences between standard and gold are:

Gold cabinet art
HV cut-out on coin door
Extra ball button
Gold trim (lockdown, rails, legs, shooter housing)
Numbered plaque
Numbered certificate
Slightly different shade of green on playfield
Gold (mustard colored) pop caps, bookcase, thing box
Gold plated wire ramp
Gold version ROMs

As with most games, the early numbered games (after 11) were exported. Not sure where the cut-off is between exported and domestic games. Numbers 1-10 were pulled from the domestic run later on and numbered 1-10 for team members.

I have #0017 which is a reimported game from Spain. I don't have the original certificate but had a copy made later on. Golds seem to hold a premium over standard Addams, but again, condition is king.

#7 3 months ago

Higher number or lower, it does not matter as they were all made in Chicago and have the same transformer, just a matter of which country it was going to do so that it was configured correctly. I like the early number games and matching board #’s but that is just me. Either way, you can’t go wrong but does either have the original gold manual as those are hard to get, could never find one when I had a gold and just gave up finding one!

#8 3 months ago

Take a black light with you and make sure serial # shows up on playfield above the mansion, true way of telling if it is an original TATG playfield.

#9 3 months ago

On TAFG

I have some NOS gold bumper caps if you want to put back tonoriginal.

Numbers 1 through about 100 were US
Somewhere low 100’s through about 650 to 700 went to Europe
Then 700 or so to 1000 were US models

IMO, doesn’t matter that number, it’s a TAFG, best collectible pin out there period, there are games worth more, but won’t play as good or be as collectible.

Lots of games between 100 and 700 are back here in the states. I have number 300 and it is never leaving my collection

#10 3 months ago

Oh, as far as the cirtificate, they were actually signed by the people. Though what’s funny, and I have had a number of TAFG machibes over the years. Most of them are missing a few signatures. And different ones.
There are Re-pop cirtificates out there. I have an original one missing a few signatures and a Re-pop that had all the signatures added.

#11 3 months ago

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#12 3 months ago

I own #0905, huo perfect example with a mint re-cleared pf.
Only thing missing is the original cert; but fortunately still had the both an original gold + regular manuals. Seller also provided a framed original translite which was pretty cool.
Definitely has mustard pop bumper caps.
All time keeper in my collection.
I would also suggest buying as close to original as possible.

#13 3 months ago

Mine is #0950 original with manual, re pop certificate, funny thing is shooter assembly is not gold, which i believe is correct for later models. But did purchase a gold one for the hell of it.

#14 89 days ago

Thanks to all for the insight. Upon more investigation of one of the machines (one I am leaning towards), all boards checked out except two which were replaced, and all trim (lock-down bar, legs, side rails) were redone by Mike Chestnut a few years back. Playfield is clean, looks very nice and is original. It is a reimport from EU but was rewired for US. Lastly, the bumpers are not original but they are not expensive to replace. That being said, clean machine, trim redone, non-original bumpers, two non-original boards (main is original), and no cert nor manuals, he came down to $9,000. I just need to get my sorry behind in my truck and drive several hours to get it. Any thoughts on how the value will be affected by the two boards and bumpers? I think I am getting a fair deal at $9,000 - yes / no?

#15 89 days ago

At 9k seems fair if cab and playfield are nice.

#16 89 days ago

Looking at the board photos today, I am a little concerned - I am attaching a few photos of the machine, plus the boards / stickers. Some stickers seem to be too white to be original, also the bottoms of some of the stickers were not cut clean (either black lines or the start of the next sticker are on the bottoms of some). Also, the color of the power driver assembly board seems too new to be original as the older ones are more of a dull green color. Also, the Dot matrix controller board was obviously changed. Any thoughts out there - or am I just being paranoid? The price is definitely good if the internal changes do not affect value too much. This is the part I am struggling with. thanks....

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#17 89 days ago

The stickers can be redone and possibly are replacements. But I’ve never seen a real gold in person to know either. As far as the boards, I’d keep a lookout for a nice set of originals and get new decals made for those when you can. Understand you wanting everything just right with the Gold though. I would too. If I wanted it, I’d go after it but that’s me. The rest looks good. Maybe pull Cliffy and see how the hole is too. For the price make sure you’re comfortable with any of these nagging issues.

#18 89 days ago

Did you do the black light test on the playfield? Front of cabinet has a few more bolts on than an original, few mods added. Don't get me wrong it is a nice machine but not a pure original.

#19 88 days ago
Quoted from pinbum:

Did you do the black light test on the playfield? Front of cabinet has a few more bolts on than an original, few mods added. Don't get me wrong it is a nice machine but not a pure original.

pinbum Thanks for that hint on the original TAFG playfields! I never knew that.

flipperfun Also thanks. I will have to get mine registered on Larry’s website and put my info there. Mine came from a Coin-Op in Southern California. Was to go overseas but he got it and held it back. #0548.

#20 88 days ago

Here’s my playfield Number with a IR flashlight:

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#21 88 days ago

I don’t know, maybe it is just me but too much I see that is not original; could be put back but then you will be sinking more $’s into it and be back closer to $10k when all done. Also, check the date code & Mfg on the edge of the playfield too! Can you give us to good shot of the playfield to see what the mansion looks like as well as the red carpet going into the left ramp entrance to verify is has the different pattern as oppposed to a regular production Addams.

#22 88 days ago

Oh, I see that it was drilled for a lockbar at one time then the holes plugged with bolts and I also missed that the speaker in the cabinet is not original so did they change the speakers in the DMD panel as well?

#23 87 days ago

Looking at the pictures closer, I have noticed that the MPU is not original to the game as it has the old style serial # tag but it should be tagged with white ones like those which are on the sound, power driver & fliptronic boards.

#24 87 days ago

I dont have a horse in the race but have a question about the black light and serial number on the playfield. Is this unique to just Addam Golds?

#25 87 days ago

No most games have the serial numbers only visible under black light. Heres some of mine. Notice the serial number on Indys hat.

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#26 87 days ago
Quoted from ibuypinballs:

I dont have a horse in the race but have a question about the black light and serial number on the playfield. Is this unique to just Addam Golds?

No but it will let you know if it is the original playfield for that TAFG.

#27 87 days ago
Quoted from pinbum:

No but it will let you know if it is the original playfield for that TAFG.

Does the serial on the playfield correspond to the serial on the cab?
If this is not the case i dont see how you can be sertain this is a gold pf based on the serial? (i know... on addams there are other differences like color, mf-date)

#28 87 days ago
Quoted from ORF:

Does the serial on the playfield correspond to the serial on the cab?
If this is not the case i dont see how you can be sertain this is a gold pf based on the serial? (i know... on addams there are other differences like color, mf-date)

YES!

#29 87 days ago
Quoted from ORF:

Does the serial on the playfield correspond to the serial on the cab?
If this is not the case i dont see how you can be sertain this is a gold pf based on the serial? (i know... on addams there are other differences like color, mf-date)

I will also confirm this, they must match else, the playfield has been swapped out at some point!

#30 87 days ago

Thank you. Next... Buy me a UV lamp

#31 86 days ago

Well OP did you purchase a TAFG ?

#32 86 days ago
Quoted from ORF:

Thank you. Next... Buy me a UV lamp

Swap meet UV flashlight. Cheap purchase.

I got it to check for bugs...

#33 86 days ago
Quoted from pinbum:

Well OP did you purchase a TAFG ?

I think we may have made him think twice!

#34 86 days ago

Hmmm, you guys are killing me (in a good way). Thanks for all the comments. I am 50/50 on the fence and need to decide by tomorrow night. Here is the summary (BTW I was set to buy, but now second guessing this decision). Looking for final weigh-ins from those in the know. I want one, have a few bucks burning a hole in my wallet to buy one, but don't want to deviate too much from original (obviously would like 100%, but will settle if I come close). I am willing to wait it out if necessary.

Cons:
Machine is a re-import
Bumpers are not original
Machine front panel was drilled by coin mechanism for lock-bar (2 extra holes plugged)
At least two boards not original (replaced) – dot matrix controller board definitely, possibly MPU...
Speaker in bottom cabinet not original
Serial numbers on boards seem suspect (too white / new in appearance)
No cert nor manual

Pros:
Price $9k
Original play-field (UL light confirms this) – also red carpet is correct
Very good condition
Trim plated by Mike Chestnut

Help! Final comments? This will be a keeper in my collection. Heck, I may even get buried in it just to piss off my kids so they don't get it

Thanks!

#35 86 days ago

Coin door is not an original if this was a import, plastic ramp is clear not smoke, if none us this matters than get it .

#36 86 days ago

Based on the cons you have listed, I would wait as you will find the $9k price initially attractive but then you will want to put it back to all original(and you will) it will end up closer to $10k than $9k. Been there done that on more than one occasion so I would say to wait unless the $9k is burning a hole in your wallet!

3 weeks later
#37 65 days ago

Well sldwaa if you were truly interested in this machine, Its clearly sold now. Just popped up on CoinOp Amusements Facebook page listed at $11.5k

2 weeks later
#38 48 days ago

Yes, I heard it sold, just not original enough for me....

Thanks.

#39 42 days ago
Quoted from sldwaa:

Yes, I heard it sold, just not original enough for me....
Thanks.

Did you ever find one? I got #949 recently all original. More than 9k but less than coinop was asking.

#40 37 days ago

Yes, I am still looking. Can I get some photos? Is it reimport or US version? Lt me know.

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