Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992HI All,
My Addams Family is draining backup batteries alarmingly fast. I have had 2 sets of alkaline AA batteries (fitted in a remote holder) drained in about 12 months. The lasted set of batteries, lithium AA's only lasted 4-6 months and I lost high scores and settings were reset to factory.
I'd rather fix the problem before thinking about changing to NVRAM. I'm assuming a diode is toast?
Usually that means the diode, D2 that is in series from the battery pack on the MPU has shorted or is leaky.
In any case I would start by replacing that diode.
If you intend to change to NVRAM cut the diode out and fit the RAM, job done as it isn't required for NVRAM. If fact, you could just ignore it and fit the RAM as you won't have any batteries in there so it won't make any difference.
Thanks Homepin, Not sure I want to fit the NVRAM as the game is working well, except for the battery draining issue and I don't want to tempt fate buy pulling a board out and fitting a NVRAM chip. Is the chip in question socketed on Addams or am I going to have to remove the current ram chip and fit a socket? I'm not bad with a soldering iron but I'm not sure my skills are quite up to removing chips while not lifting traces/damaging through holes.
I know it has no impact on the game but I also like the rtc to show the correct date and time (I know, I know) and installing NVRAM kills that.
Most of them were soldered in unfortunately and that makes replacing a bit tricky.
Might be better to replace the diode and try Lithium batts again. I use them in my machines at home.
Quoted from Sabot68:I have copies of the manuals, they will tell me diode types?
They will but they aren't that critical. Jaycar will have the ones in the manual. I use Shottky types (low forward voltage drop) but it really isn't required.
I have had a look at the manual and if i'm reading it correctly D1 is Part No. 5070-092660-00 (which is not really helpful) a 1N5817 1.0A diode.
And D2 is Part No 5070-08919-00 a 1N4148 150mA diode.
So both would be available from Jaycar?
Now for removing the diode, I have a soldering iron and solder wick, no desoldering station/gun....
Just cut the diode off the board and remove each remaining leg one at a time.
Jaycar will have both those diodes.
thanks all, I have removed components from pcb's before, usually bad caps from power supplies usung solder wick so it not foreign territory to me. However I follow most of the tech issue posts on these forums and one thing that has become very apparent is that these boards are very easy to damage, I guess its got me very apprehensive both doing any board work on these quite fragile pcbs.
This is your 1N4148:
https://www.jaycar.com.au/1n4148-1n914-signal-diode-pk-5/p/ZR1100
and...Jaycar don't list a 1N5817 which is a 1A Schottky diode meaning it has a low forward voltage drop or loss.
Use a 1N5819 instead (which is listed as a stock item)
https://www.jaycar.com.au/diode-1n5819-schottky-40v-1a-do41/p/ZR1020
Also remember both these are polarity conscious IE: they must be inserted the correct way around denoted by the band on the cathode end of the part.
I had the same issue on my AFM. I documented the parts needed and picture of the board and diodes. I bought the diodes from Marco Specialties.
http://www.pinballsupernova.com/afm%20battery%20depletes%20rapidly.html
thanks wiggy07, i'm assuming that because its a different game the location of the diodes are different from TAF, different board design?
D1 and D2 on the Addams board are next to the J211 connector not next to the battery holder as pictured in your guide.
Also are either one of these diodes suitable to be used as spare parts for the other diodes used throughout the game eg across coils etc. If so I'll buy a bunch so I have some spares.
Not overly the same really. You should be using 1N4001 > 1N4007 (any of the group 1N400X) across coils and also for the switch matrix on practically every pinball made.
Did you test the batteries? In my case they were still good.
I had a similar problem with my TAF resetting randomly (worked for months then not) recently. Very frustrating. In my case, there was a loose wire on the remote battery holder that was causing it to fail intermittently. I started my troubleshooting from the battery pack side and found the cause. Not saying yours is caused by the same thing, but it is worth doublechecking. Hope it helps. Good luck.
Send the MPU to me with $30, I will install NVRAM and send it back. Parts and shipping included in the price.
Quoted from HeyYouSir:Did you test the batteries? In my case they were still good.
I had a similar problem with my TAF resetting randomly (worked for months then not) recently. Very frustrating. In my case, there was a loose wire on the remote battery holder that was causing it to fail intermittently. I started my troubleshooting from the battery pack side and found the cause. Not saying yours is caused by the same thing, but it is worth doublechecking. Hope it helps. Good luck.
hi HeyYouSir, I have tested the batteries and they are dead. However I will still check the diodes with my trusty dmm before I do anything.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Send the MPU to me with $30, I will install NVRAM and send it back. Parts and shipping included in the price.
Hi PinballManiac40,
Thanks for the offer but I don't want to send the board in the post from Sydney to Texas!
ok I have finally been able to have a look at my TAF, one small complication, I have a rottendog MPU board.
I measured the voltage from the battery pack at the terminals on the board, reads 4.6v, When I installed these batteries (AA lithium) on the 23rd Sept '16 the voltage read 5.4v, so in under 2 months its lost nearly 1volt.
These boards don't enjoy a good reputation I'm afraid.
With that said, the diodes "should" be the same as the original board and the fix "should" be the same.
I would locate and replace the two diodes and see how it goes after that. I have no idea if the layout of the RD board is the same as the original or if they use the same part descriptors BUT they should???
If D2 is leaky or shorted, then the batteries would try charging from the 5 volt line, These don't like this and will probably heat up, leak or explode and defiantly not last very long. If D2 is open, then your batteries will not be in the circuit at all, but will keep charged, you will loose all of your settings.
D1 prevents the batteries from running the entire CPU, allowing only the Ram chip to draw current. If D1 was shorted then the batteries would run the entire CPU , resulting in extremely short battery life. If D1 was open, the batteries would run the ram chip when the game was shut off as well as when the was running. I would think this would
affect the battery life, but not to the extremes you are mentioning
Of course you could have a bad ram chip.
That is about everything that has to do with the Batteries
Of course I am assuming the layout of this board is the same as the Bally origanal
thanks gregfilek,
Seeing as the rottendog board has socketed sram chip (U8) I am thinking that I should probably juist replace it with an nvram chip.
Homepin do you know of anybody selling them in Australia or should I just order a bunch of chips from china via aliexpress??
Quoted from Sabot68:thanks gregfilek,
Seeing as the rottendog board has socketed sram chip (U8) I am thinking that I should probably juist replace it with an nvram chip.
Homepin do you know of anybody selling them in Australia or should I just order a bunch of chips from china via aliexpress??
I would get them online - be aware that the ones sold on Aliexpress (AliBaba & the 40 thieves) are very probably fakes.
Our investigations in the electronic markets here in Shenzhen have revealed some interesting facts about these.
They will likely work OK but they won't be "genuine" Ramtron. The ONLY Ramtrom genuine ones available these days are SMD. Even all of the NOS and "working pull" DIP chips have been exhausted.
Here ya go. Homepin has you on the right track. This is a simple fix.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Settings_Not_Held_or_Battery_Depletes_Rapidly
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
Quoted from Sabot68:Hi PinballManiac40,
Thanks for the offer but I don't want to send the board in the post from Sydney to Texas!
Thank you. Previously, I did not see where you were located. That would be a long travel back and forth.
Quoted from Sabot68:Seeing as the rottendog board has socketed sram chip (U8) I am thinking that I should probably juist replace it with an nvram chip.
Yes, the sram is in a socket so it would be an easy upgrade for you to do on the Rottendog board. I had to do this on 3 Rottendog WPC MPU already for other people because the battery connectors on the board suck with the thin wire from the battery pack.
Quoted from ChrisHibler:Here ya go. Homepin has you on the right track. This is a simple fix.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Settings_Not_Held_or_Battery_Depletes_Rapidly
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
I have been having this same problem with my Fun House. I am assuming the 2 recommended diodes for D1 and D2 are the same from FH to Addams Family? I dont have the manual so I cannot be sure. But i think both are the same WPC boards? Thanks,
Quoted from Elicash:I dont have the manual
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/966/Williams_1990_Funhouse_Operations_Manual_with_Schematics.pdf
LTG : )
Quoted from Elicash:I am assuming the 2 recommended diodes for D1 and D2 are the same from FH to Addams Family?
A valid assumption. One is a 1N4148, the other is a 1N5817.
Let us know your results. Always interested!
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Quoted from Sabot68:Hi All,
Quick update, now that the sram is socketed because I have a rottendog mpu board not the original bally board it makes it a no brainer that I install a nvram chip which I have on the way.
Thanks all for your help.
Game is holding setting ok now with the NVRAM?
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Game is holding setting ok now with the NVRAM?
Probably still waiting for the NVRAM to be delivered?
Quoted from Homepin:Probably still waiting for the NVRAM to be delivered?
I hope not. 7 days since his last post.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:I hope not. 7 days since his last post.
The chip is being sent "air post" from China - that usually takes about 14 working days in my experience.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Ahhh...so he is getting NVRAM from you, no?
Yes, it is one we had left over from the production of our replacement WMS MPU boards.
Reading thread I believe I have the same issue with a MPU089 Rotten dog board I have in my fishtales. Got a question out to Rottendog on what I diode I need to replace. Suspect is the bad diode causing the powered CPU board is charging batteries causing them to die. If this is the case I was wondering if anyone tried putting rechargable batteries into machine.
Quoted from dzrossi:Reading thread I believe I have the same issue with a MPU089 Rotten dog board I have in my fishtales. Got a question out to Rottendog on what I diode I need to replace. Suspect is the bad diode causing the powered CPU board is charging batteries causing them to die. If this is the case I was wondering if anyone tried putting rechargable batteries into machine.
I wouldn't waste any time with regular or rechargeable batteries. Update it to NVRAM and not worry about batteries anymore. The Rottendog board should have a 6264 RAM that is already in a socket and it is easy to swap out.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-draining-backup-batteries and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Granville
Hopkins, MN
....
Vancouver, BC