My Addams Family has taken a turn for the worst as of last night. It started off on power up saying coin door open. Now on power up it just says check fuses 114 and 115. However both fuses are fine. All the lights are working and the bookcase turns but I am unable to start a game or even use the menu and volume buttons.
Anyone had this happen or know what may be wrong?

Awesome. Thanks for the replies

I get a reading of 10 volts on both the TP 3 and on pin 10 of the U20 chip.
Not sure if my 12 volt is faulty or if U20 has been shorted out.

Pretty sure ground is good, but I will check tomorrow.
My 5 volts is spot on.
12 volts reads 10 volts.
18 volts reads 20 volts.

So I am 2 volts under on one and 2 volts over on another.

Anyone have a good source for the 20 pin ULN2803?

I found a 18 pin ULN2803A at Marco but not the 20 pin.

I'm sure I can order it from Ralphs electronics here in town, but if I can throw one in with a pinball order, then all the better.

Sure would be nice if it was a plug and play socket chip. Not a big fan of soldering those things. But I had to do it on my Twilight Zone before.

Awesome. I will double check. I just went by the pinwiki that said to check voltage on the far left pin 10. Which would make it a 20 pin chip.
I will double check the count when I get home, but I bet it is the 18 pin.

I was not aware you could put a socket on the main board. That is a great addition and I will certainly do that.
Mine has to be an age problem. I was not even playing the game when it happened.
I just turned it on to show somebody what it looked like and while I was talking to them a message came up telling me the coin door was open. since it was not open I decided to power off the game. When I powered it back up again it had the check Fuses 114 and 115 message.
I feel certain it is the U20 chip.

All fuses are fine.
None were blown when the message came up.
But I have plenty of fuses on hand as I run an arcade.
Thanks again for all the tips.

Happy to.
Probably can't get to it till after work.

Stopped home for lunch.
With j210 unplugged I get 3.45 volt at T3

Thanks.
I will have that done around 5:00
Really appreciate the help.

Ok.
With J 114 disconnected I get 7.45 volts on TP3 and 17.43 volts on the 12 volt unregulated.
The capacitor is in great shape with no leaking.

It has been nice working with you Sargent. lol.
I can't get to the machine till after work tomorrow.
But that sounds easy enough.
I'll report back as soon as I have some intel.

Alright, here is the latest information on my power board problem.

First of all I thought that TP1 was the unregulated 12volt you wanted me to measure, not TP8.

So the reading from TP8 was 21.6 Volts.
The reading at D1 was 20.2 Volts
The reading at D2 was 20.1 volts
The reading at 7812 was 11.97 volts

So I guess the guilty party is C2
It has been a long time since I had to measure capacitance and since I have to remove the entire board to do that I thought I would post a photo of my meter (a Meterman 15XP) in the hopes you could tell me what setting I should use if any.
Thanks for all the help so far.

IMG_0957small.jpg

Thanks. I have lots of soldering experience and have replaced caps before. It should not be a problem and my local electronics store should have one in stock.
I really appreciate the step by step help.

Picked up the cap this afternoon. Only .98 cents.
I'll post back if it fixes the problem or not.

Houston, we have a problem.
The new capacitor is in place properly.
When I turn on the game, I get the same error message.
"Check Fuses F114 and F115"
The fuses have never blown throughout the whole ordeal.

So, Are we back to the U20 chip on the MPU board?

Here are the readings as of now with J114, 116,117 and 118 unplugged.

TP3 = 1.08
TP8 = 22.0
D1 = 21.5
D2 = 20.8
7812 = 11.98

Bump for any ideas from Chris.

Here is a picture I took after removing the old cap. I took a photo during the replacement process just in case.
I will have the F115 results soon.

IMG_0973small.jpg

Ok. Here are the numbers

left side of the fuse holder is .005
Right side is 8.7 (However it was a slow climb from 4.5 to 8.7)

Now that have taken a new photo of the new capacitor with the flash on, I can see where looks like it has leaked out on the upper pin.
I was very careful to make sure it went on the same way the old cap came off, the gray stripe is facing the same way the old cap did. It is a little bit smaller then the original but had the same specs.
Here is the photo that shows the leaking. I think.

IMG_0976small.jpg IMG_0977small.jpg

Old cap on the right and the new package they sold me from the specs sheet.

I can email the large pics if u need.
The larger file size shows a lot more detail.

And sorry to ask, but how do I measure resistance?
I am guessing the omega symbol on my meter.

The cap came in a pack of two so no problem there.
I get continuity to the fuse.
I tried resistance and only got a 17 to show up. However I had no idea how to set the meter properly so not sure that is any help.
I will try and read up on how to repair the traces as I feel that must be the problem

Starting to think this may be over my ability to solve.
The new cap did not leak, but I figured the traces were bad so I removed it anyway.
I cleaned with isopropyl, then lightly scraped off the traces to bridge.
After putting in the newer capacitor, it checked all leads for continuity further up the traces.
It beeped every time. Great, I thought. It will surely work this time.
However when I fire up the game I get the same error message.
"Check fuses F114 and F115."

I guess if you are out of ideas for me to try, I can mail you the board as you suggested earlier.
I am willing to keep trying things.

Yes. lol
I have tried that at least a dozen times.

Any clues with the way this occured maybe?
I turned on the machine, not to play it, but just to show somebody the lights.
While we were standing there talking, a message came up on the screen saying the coin door was open.
I opened and closed the coin door but nothing happened.
So I powered down the machine, then the check fuses message came up upon power up and has never gone away.

Ok.
Just don't laugh too hard at my messy attempt to fix the solder pad problem.
The first cap was soldered in nice and neat. This one, not so much. lol.

Yes.
I can swap the boards and see what happens.

As for measuring resistance.
I kind of need to be led through the correct process.
I'm not completely sure where to set my meter and what color leads go to what.
I hate just blindly touching things and hoping for a good outcome.
I have a photo of my meter up above.
There are two settings with the omega symbol.
One with just the symbol and one with a 2000m above the symbol. Which is correct?
Also do I need to press the range button to get a correct reading?
Just too many variables for me to guess correctly.

Good catch.
At one point I noticed the same thing. I meant to try and fix it but got so busy with the cap that I forgot.
The bottom of the board looks great for the transistor. But on the top of the board there does seem to be a good hole where the middle leg goes.

I will try again.
The first time I set it the just the omega symbol I could not get a reading other than 0.
I got the 17 when I set it on the 2000m setting.
I will compare it to my Twilight Zone.

I will get to it tomorrow.
Will report back with the results.

OK Chris give me an address before I make this board unrepairable.
Trying to get my fat soldering iron in that tiny space is not a good recipe.
If I keep trying this we may just end up with a giant hole though the entire thing, or my sanity will be totally gone.
The whole area is just getting too messy and I don't want to short something out.
I have hit a wall and I admit defeat.

Awesome. I knew I had to be close. But that area was just to tight to work in with the equipment I have.
PM me anything I owe you and the shipping charges.
Thanks a million for taking the time to work with me on this crazy problem.
Leon.

Just to continue the F114 and f115 problem, my friend with a Fish Tales calls me yesterday to say he has the dreaded message. Knowing I can now track this down pretty quickly I drove over and removed his board and brought it home.
It did not take me very long to find the problem. Lol

image.jpg

It does indeed. I have never seen this happen before. But it should save me a lot of time testing components.

Sorry. I hate starting new threads for the same topic.
This Fish Tales board did that on its own. No outside source.
Just decided to crack.

Yes, I have access to Clays guide.
Read it from end to end when I was fixing my Addams Family board.
But I don't think I will need it for this Fish Tales board.

He may as well just put the guide back up.
There are so many copies printed and stored on private servers now that it is crazy to try and worry about it.

Wow. That capacitor really leaked. Sorry to see that. But at least you know exactly what is broken.
I'm sure someone will pop in here that knows more then me, but I can't imagine that small part of that trace going bad in just that one small section, but there is always a tiny chance.
I have heard of some people using isopropyl alcohol, but I would wait and hear from the experts.

That should not be a problem.
Just make sure to put it in the same direction the other one came out.
Neg to neg and positive to positive. But I'm sure you already know that.

Yes. That is the capacitor.
It has two wire leads the go through the holes in the board.
And yes that film you see is where it leaked on the board.