(Topic ID: 26240)

Addams Family down for the count.


By Arcade

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 86 posts
  • 20 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by zucot
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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There are 86 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 7 years ago

That could all be a side effect of the failure mode. The coin door open/closed switch is on the switch matrix.

OK...I'll send you a PM with my snail male address to ship the board. This is a very strange thing so I'm anxious to get my hands on it.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#52 7 years ago

Ok.
Just don't laugh too hard at my messy attempt to fix the solder pad problem.
The first cap was soldered in nice and neat. This one, not so much. lol.

#53 7 years ago

So have you put the power board from your Tz into TAF? That should get TAF up and running and tell you that there are no further issues on the CPU board. You could also use th TZ board and measure the resistances Chris pointed to in the thread and compare them to your TAF board. If one is significantly off you could fix or "blue wire" that trace.

#54 7 years ago

Yes.
I can swap the boards and see what happens.

As for measuring resistance.
I kind of need to be led through the correct process.
I'm not completely sure where to set my meter and what color leads go to what.
I hate just blindly touching things and hoping for a good outcome.
I have a photo of my meter up above.
There are two settings with the omega symbol.
One with just the symbol and one with a 2000m above the symbol. Which is correct?
Also do I need to press the range button to get a correct reading?
Just too many variables for me to guess correctly.

#55 7 years ago

Put your meter on the omega symbol, which is ohms.
Try measuring a known value resistor to ensure you get the correct reading. Then measure the resistance we discussed.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#56 7 years ago

I was looking over this and reading to get a better understanding of this trouble shooting procedure.
First off thank you Chris for the good info.
I noticed on page 1 picture number 2 that the center leg of transistor Q2 does not look to be well soldered and it is in direct line with the capacitor in question? Could this be causing some weird readings? Just something I noticed and wanted to bring to everyone who is helpings attention.

Thanks so far for the good read

#57 7 years ago
Quoted from Shoot_Again:

I was looking over this and reading to get a better understanding of this trouble shooting procedure.
First off thank you Chris for the good info.
I noticed on page 1 picture number 2 that the center leg of transistor Q2 does not look to be well soldered and it is in direct line with the capacitor in question? Could this be causing some weird readings? Just something I noticed and wanted to bring to everyone who is helpings attention.
Thanks so far for the good read

Good catch.
At one point I noticed the same thing. I meant to try and fix it but got so busy with the cap that I forgot.
The bottom of the board looks great for the transistor. But on the top of the board there does seem to be a good hole where the middle leg goes.

#58 7 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Put your meter on the omega symbol, which is ohms.
Try measuring a known value resistor to ensure you get the correct reading. Then measure the resistance we discussed.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

I will try again.
The first time I set it the just the omega symbol I could not get a reading other than 0.
I got the 17 when I set it on the 2000m setting.
I will compare it to my Twilight Zone.

#59 7 years ago

Yes, good catch.
Leon...let's solder that center leg from the component side of the board and retest.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#60 7 years ago

I will get to it tomorrow.
Will report back with the results.

#61 7 years ago

OK Chris give me an address before I make this board unrepairable.
Trying to get my fat soldering iron in that tiny space is not a good recipe.
If I keep trying this we may just end up with a giant hole though the entire thing, or my sanity will be totally gone.
The whole area is just getting too messy and I don't want to short something out.
I have hit a wall and I admit defeat.

#62 7 years ago

It takes a big man...
I'll PM you via PinSide Mail.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#63 7 years ago

All better now Arcade (Leon).
Root cause was a severed trace connecting the 7812 voltage regulator with the C2 filter cap. Board tests 100% good in my TZ.

Tish and Gomez will be yakking it up again on Monday.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#64 7 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

All better now Arcade (Leon).
Root cause was a severed trace connecting the 7812 voltage regulator with the C2 filter cap. Board tests 100% good in my TZ.
Tish and Gomez will be yakking it up again on Monday.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Awesome. I knew I had to be close. But that area was just to tight to work in with the equipment I have.
PM me anything I owe you and the shipping charges.
Thanks a million for taking the time to work with me on this crazy problem.
Leon.

1 year later
#65 6 years ago

Just to continue the F114 and f115 problem, my friend with a Fish Tales calls me yesterday to say he has the dreaded message. Knowing I can now track this down pretty quickly I drove over and removed his board and brought it home.
It did not take me very long to find the problem. Lol

image.jpg

#66 6 years ago

Someone appears to have taken a band saw to that.

#67 6 years ago
Quoted from RDM:

Someone appears to have taken a band saw to that.

It does indeed. I have never seen this happen before. But it should save me a lot of time testing components.

#68 6 years ago

That must've been from an outside source right? That looks like a heatsink and I can't believe that whatever's below it got so hot as to burn right through it in a straight line.

Nutty!

#69 6 years ago

The center leg of the 7812 looks like it's not soldered in properly in your picture, looks like there's a gap around the leg.

#70 6 years ago

Holy thread resurrection, Batman!

#71 6 years ago

woops i thought that said 1 hour ago when i replied, lol. disregard my other reply, I wish I had noticed the bad connection on the 7812 earlier, heh!

#72 6 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Holy thread resurrection, Batman!

Sorry. I hate starting new threads for the same topic.
This Fish Tales board did that on its own. No outside source.
Just decided to crack.

#73 6 years ago

Do you have Clay's repair guide? He talks about this specific problem and I used it to fix mine a few weeks ago. I don't know what the rules are for posting a section of that here.

#74 6 years ago

Yes, I have access to Clays guide.
Read it from end to end when I was fixing my Addams Family board.
But I don't think I will need it for this Fish Tales board.

He may as well just put the guide back up.
There are so many copies printed and stored on private servers now that it is crazy to try and worry about it.

2 months later
#75 6 years ago

I'm having this exact problem now. Looks like I have a leaky capacitor as well.

Can someone please take a look at the trace for the bottom leg of U1 in this pic? Am I gonna have problems with that? I couldn't tell if it was dirt, marker, or a trace problem.

How can I clean the area where the capacitor leaked?

image.jpg

#76 6 years ago

Wow. That capacitor really leaked. Sorry to see that. But at least you know exactly what is broken.
I'm sure someone will pop in here that knows more then me, but I can't imagine that small part of that trace going bad in just that one small section, but there is always a tiny chance.
I have heard of some people using isopropyl alcohol, but I would wait and hear from the experts.

#77 6 years ago

Thanks for the response. The only capacitors that I can find in stock for a pickup tomorrow are 100mfd 35v (not 25.) I'd love to know if this is going to be a problem.

#78 6 years ago

That should not be a problem.
Just make sure to put it in the same direction the other one came out.
Neg to neg and positive to positive. But I'm sure you already know that.

#79 6 years ago

Is the capacitor the round barrel shaped black cylinder at the top of the picture with the silver bottom? There is a film below it which is the leak I am assuming. I am trying to learn about boards. thanks

#80 6 years ago

Yes. That is the capacitor.
It has two wire leads the go through the holes in the board.
And yes that film you see is where it leaked on the board.

#81 6 years ago

Unfortunately that didn't fix the problem. I also replaced the voltage regulator next to the capacitor.

I swapped in a rottendog board (thnks mummite!) and the game is 100% playable, so the problem is definitely on the original board.

Any other ideas before I give up and send the board out for repair?

#82 6 years ago

Not an expert, but try doing continuity checks along traces around the capacitor to see if anything is severed.

#83 6 years ago
Quoted from judremy:

Not an expert, but try doing continuity checks along traces around the capacitor to see if anything is severed.

Yeah, tried that and as far as I can tell it all checks out.

#84 6 years ago

I just saw this on a TAF that I went to look at and asked a repair buddy about it. He said that sometimes F114-115 error can be a bad bridge at BR1. Hope that helps!

#85 6 years ago

Thanks! I thought BR1 would be suspect only if I had no 18v (and that light comes on just fine.) I appreciate the ideas though.

#86 6 years ago

Fixed! Needed more solder between the positive end of the capacitor and the corresponding leg of the voltage regulator.

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