I have cleaned Acid Damage on other machines mostly on sys11. Vinegar/Water and a toothbrush. This time around not a simple clean. The power Driver Board on a Fish Tales WCP 95 seems to have had a acid issue before I bought it. My batteries are fine however though I can see previous etching on the board. To be honest, I rather buy a new board and move the chips for $180. The game plays fine by the Display is stuck on adding credits. Makes me first think it is a switch issue, but I really think it is a power driver issue since I scraped off some acid fungus. Few resistors have bad solder joints so I could re-flow them... Or do I just drop $180 and get a rotten dog since this board looks a bit rough. I just need to swap the fish tales chip right?

EDIT: Williams WPC89 MPU board

Just ran the machine for awhile. Seems some damaged portions of the Power Driver Board warms up and runs fine. AKA dry solder since the acid eat most of it away. I will reflow all the bad spots. "prob 50". and see what happens. If the game runs fine after it warms up, should only take 50-60 quick taps.

From my limited experience, if you know you have bad solder joints and your game runs fine after it gets hot. then You assume you have dry solder on the power driver board considering it had acid? All the acid was removed and neutralized btw, but it did damage..

EDIT: Williams WPC89 MPU board

In the end I can re-solder all the acid solder joints, it will fix it. But I rather just have a clean board. This board looks like it had some major acid issues in the its past. Can I just buy a new Driver board from rotten dog and swap the FT rom?

EDIT: Williams WPC89 MPU board

The MPU yes, sorry. awhile since I did board work and Power Driver Board is written on the MPU board for the ribbon leading to the Power Driver Board so I get my words mixed up.

For people who read this and get confused your MPU is the narrow board... AKA your leaking battery. See in orange is your game rom on your MPU. Frankly to me they are all boards and I just solder bad joints or fix broken obvious hacks and forget what they are called. Very sorry

MPU_(resized).png

In the end... Prob smart to reflow all 50+ joints the acid ruined before I buy a new board. Issue is, they look healthy from the back. so some components may be messed up and it is not the pins.

hmm... I get "10 credit" on the DMD and a credit sound randomly. I know for a fact after cleaning I have multiple joints that are dry. Issue is I have only pulled joints out and soldered a new one in. So how do you re-flow 50 resistors that are healthy from the back and rotted out from the front.

I am ok with running a bridge if I know what to scratch and what to run. In the end, rather just buy a new board. so I need to buy a board that is only missing the rom. Otherwise I have to salvage the ram "under the rom" and pull all the chips which may or may not be socketed. I will post a link to a rotten dog in a few mins when I find it.

Another update. Went in settings to turn on free play. Came back and only DMD works everything else is dead. something smells fishy with my Fish Tales.

-Start a game

-Flippers work, audio works, No lights and no plunger.

(EDIT) J114 and J115 reseated and power is back. I may have some hacks behind the boards as well....

Good news. I think the acid on the MPU which I have cleaned with vinegar water is unrelated to my issue. Granted, if I had not cleaned the acid I would have a slew of other problems eventually. Turns out a broken wire in the coin door was shorting/triggering new coins randomly. Problem solved so far.