Thank you !!
Swinging Bell looks great, every time I see a pro with the premium train I want something in that spot. I have replaced that song with Dirty Deeds can anyone think of anything that I could put in that spot that feels more Dirty Deeds? I have a 3D printer just need an idea of what to print. I thought of maybe just getting a plastic of the cropped album cover to replace the train, but its kinda blue nothing really that color scheme on the playfield.
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Got tired of the florescent tube lighting in the back of my AC/DC, so I updated it to the LED backbox offered by Arcade Upkeep ($65US). Makes the lighting a lot more distributed on the translite. It also dims during game play. Very easy to connect with three alligator clips and powered by the connector near the front of the game.
1AA12F93-75A8-45B4-B1F5-325A3EFD3BCD (resized).jpeg68D221A0-38A2-4264-986D-E05B3B5D194D (resized).jpegCB7CED21-0316-41AA-B1C4-4292B6FBAABB (resized).jpeg
Quoted from pinballjah:Got tired of the florescent tube lighting in the back of my AC/DC, so I updated it to the LED backbox offered by Arcade Upkeep ($65US). Makes the lighting a lot more distributed on the translite. It also dims during game play. Very easy to connect with three alligator clips and powered by the connector near the front of the game.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Arcade Upkeeps LED back box is a great tube replacement. I’ve installed two of these and love them.
Quoted from pinballjah:Got tired of the florescent tube lighting in the back of my AC/DC, so I updated it to the LED backbox offered by Arcade Upkeep ($65US). Makes the lighting a lot more distributed on the translite. It also dims during game play. Very easy to connect with three alligator clips and powered by the connector near the front of the game.
That's pretty cool. Does anyone know how it detects game mode? Just curious what signal they use.
Quoted from Stebel:Just picked up an AC/DC pro. It needs a new playfield. I think the balls before I got it were sandpaper covered balls.
Can the Vault playfield be used in a old pro?
The Vault art is much nicer than the large face.
[quoted image]
I realize I'm weird, but I'd polish what was there, change the rubber, drop a playfield protector on it, and play the snot out of it.
When I see games like this that have had a hard life on location somewhere, their history just sings to me. So many games. So many missed song jackpots.
I've had some scrappy games with the paint completely gone in my house, and they have always been fun. I never thought about all the games I was putting on them, it was all just carefree pinball fun. They don't go down in value from where they are, they just exist.
As for your real question now that I have gotten all nostalgic, I think they are the same dimensions. If you need specifics, let me know through a PM and I can send you dimensions and pictures of the wiring on the Vault if nobody else knows the answer to if they can be used in the older Pro game.
I made a template from paper and then cut a piece of mylar that covered the little bit of wear that started in that area. I would suggest doing that. Clean and wax the area and then put down mylar.
Quoted from Stebel:Just picked up an AC/DC pro. It needs a new playfield. I think the balls before I got it were sandpaper covered balls.
Can the Vault playfield be used in a old pro?
The Vault art is much nicer than the large face.
[quoted image]
That is an excessive amount of wear. A Spiderman I came across had over 100,000 plays on the audit and no where near the amount of wear as your AC/DC. Was that a routed machine? What was the play count?
Quoted from newpinbin:That is an excessive amount of wear. A Spiderman I came across had over 100,000 plays on the audit and no where near the amount of wear as your AC/DC. Was that a routed machine? What was the play count?
Guaranteed it was a routed machine. The inside of the cabinet isn’t dirty, the mechs aren’t sloppy or anything. The only broken plastics are a couple lighting bolts. The playfield just broke down hard.
No audits, as the code was updated before I got it. There was no old school counter in the cabinet either.
Quoted from Stebel:Guaranteed it was a routed machine. The inside of the cabinet isn’t dirty, the mechs aren’t sloppy or anything. The only broken plastics are a couple lighting bolts. The playfield just broke down hard.
No audits, as the code was updated before I got it. There was no old school counter in the cabinet either.
It must have been a very popular theme or the only pinball machine on location. Did you buy it at an auction? Mine has a clear factory plastic cover over the pop bumper area, which is to protect the high wear area. It looks like yours may have been removed. Are you able to provide any more photos? I have always been interested in seeing how much abuse a well played AC/DC has on the playfield like yours.
Quoted from newpinbin:It must have been a very popular theme or the only pinball machine on location. Did you buy it at an auction? Mine has a clear factory plastic cover over the pop bumper area, which is to protect the high wear area. It looks like yours may have been removed. Are you able to provide any more photos? I have always been interested in seeing how much abuse a well played AC/DC has on the playfield like yours.
I took the game from my friend. Online auction purchase. Things look better in a picture.
I have done a bit or reading on the game and I am missing the spring near the exit of the pops. Sure the spring made the circular wear on that part of the pf.
Here are a few pics.
26B414A5-54BB-4657-8129-1A48A31EEECB (resized).jpeg3575827D-1C49-435E-B090-53E208214AB0 (resized).jpeg493B9721-573C-4736-9EF0-449352D0CFFB (resized).jpeg64E15324-C220-4825-A476-A6F9F63D33A3 (resized).jpeg6E50ECD8-6908-4A24-9D0F-9E3D15EB8B52 (resized).jpegF732FA20-929F-4E0C-ADFC-A893880E44E1 (resized).jpegThe playfield appears to have a long fractured/split from the pop bumper clear insert light up towards the "A" and "X" lanes. Not sure how a split like that would even happen. Would be so interesting to know the history of this machine and how all this damage actually occurred. I have the VE, the only thing different is the swinging bell on mine. Did the cabinet on this hold up?
Quoted from newpinbin:The playfield appears to have a long fractured/split from the pop bumper clear insert light up towards the "A" and "X" lanes. Not sure how a split like that would even happen. Would be so interesting to know the history of this machine and how all this damage actually occurred. I have the VE, the only thing different is the swinging bell on mine. Did the cabinet on this hold up?
Cabinet looks great. Solid everywhere. No wear at the flipper buttons (no extra protection applied to cabinet), couple of minor scrapes is all. Even the glass has literally no scratches.
There is a clearcoat on the pf because you can see it missing on the edges of the inserts.
Quoted from Stebel:I took the game from my friend. Online auction purchase. Things look better in a picture.
I have done a bit or reading on the game and I am missing the spring near the exit of the pops. Sure the spring made the circular wear on that part of the pf.
Here are a few pics.
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I hope it wasn't the P1 auction recently? I think that game went for $7k plus Canadian. He should have gone and inspected the game in advance as they always have a day the public can come and check out the games for sale (even with COVID).
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from pinballjah:I hope it wasn't the P1 auction recently? I think that game went for $7k plus Canadian. He should have gone and inspected the game in advance as they always have a day the public can come and check out the games for sale (even with COVID).[quoted image]
Crazy to see that machines are even going for these prices. I bought my VE NIB and shipped for $5200 and I thought that was an outrageous price.
Quoted from newpinbin:Crazy to see that machines are even going for these prices. I bought my VE NIB and shipped for $5200 and I thought that was an outrageous price.
These are Canadian prices so about $6k US.
Quoted from pinballjah:I hope it wasn't the P1 auction recently? I think that game went for $7k plus Canadian. He should have gone and inspected the game in advance as they always have a day the public can come and check out the games for sale (even with COVID).[quoted image]
It had to be a P1 auction, but it wasn’t a recent one. He’s had it for 3 years. I think he might have played it 100 times since he bought it.
Quoted from Stebel:Sure the spring made the circular wear on that part of the pf.
Had a first run Pro. No spring.
Have a VE Pro. Spring (and cutted it a bit to be really a help against the SDTM-Balls, oherwise it was useless).
So it may be your machine had no spring.
Added some pop bumper caps and light rings today. Also put a red flasher inside the bell, wired to insert flasher. Ordered new lightning bolt flashers from AliExpress ($26 CND for 3 shipped to my door). They are great.
I really don’t like the “R” insert being totally hidden under the cannon. Will try to add a visual aid soon. Still thinking of ideas.
During gameplay all I hear is Immortan Joe from mad max doing the call outs.
237BF775-9C80-4284-B13B-7004B3860503 (resized).jpeg4CD013FE-F026-49D6-91F6-829761EF037B (resized).jpegQuoted from Stebel:Added some pop bumper caps and light rings today. Also put a red flasher inside the bell, wired to insert flasher. Ordered new lightning bolt flashers from AliExpress ($26 CND for 3 shipped to my door). They are great.
I really don’t like the “R” insert being totally hidden under the cannon. Will try to add a visual aid soon. Still thinking of ideas.
During gameplay all I hear is Immortan Joe from mad max doing the call outs.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Where did you get the lightning bolt flashers for $26CDN? Would love the link. Didn't think you could add light rings to the existing bumpers. Thanks.
Yes. Those are the ones I got. They work well and are plug and play. I did enlarge the hole for the screw to attach to post.
Quoted from pinballjah:Where did you get the lightning bolt flashers for $26CDN? Would love the link. Didn't think you could add light rings to the existing bumpers. Thanks.
I add caps and light rings to all my stern games that use the plastics instead of the traditional caps. Some take some work with a dremel but it is easy to do. I usually use Bally Williams caps as they are cheap and readily available locally for me.
Added them to X-men, Walking Dead, AC/DC, LOTR.
Quoted from Stebel:Yes. Those are the ones I got. They work well and are plug and play. I did enlarge the hole for the screw to attach to post.
Have you gotten anything else from them. I have been thinking about trying their flashers and bulbs?
Quoted from Darscot:Have you gotten anything else from them. I have been thinking about trying their flashers and bulbs?
I bought 150 (cool white) star post lights from them as well. Installed about 100 so far. All working perfectly. I add star post lights to every post on B/W games.
Flashers and leds I get from my local guy, he is competitive on pricing and no wait time.
Quoted from Stebel:I bought 150 (cool white) star post lights from them as well. Installed about 100 so far. All working perfectly. I add star post lights to every post on B/W games.
Flashers and leds I get from my local guy, he is competitive on pricing and no wait time.
I haven't tried star post LEDs do they glare on the DMD?
Quoted from Darscot:I haven't tried star post LEDs do they glare on the DMD?
Not really at all. Here is a pic of Fish Tales.
1C8746CD-A436-4E08-AADD-747CDAE324BA (resized).jpegQuoted from Stebel:Not really at all. Here is a pic of Fish Tales.
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They do look sweet and I do love color matching posts and rubber. I always put spotlights in my games for extra light but they tend to glare real bad because they point straight up at the DMD. This seems like the way to go and at 50 cents a pop you cant really go wrong.
Thanks for the link! Are they easy to install, seem to come with bare wires as an attachment?
Quoted from Stebel:I bought 150 (cool white) star post lights from them as well. Installed about 100 so far. All working perfectly. I add star post lights to every post on B/W games.
Flashers and leds I get from my local guy, he is competitive on pricing and no wait time.
Those star post lights look great!
Question for the club....
I have an original pro (2012 build) and I need to remove the cannon to get at the top post of the right slingshot. Is there a trick to this? I suspect loctite was used for the set screw holding the cannon’s shaft, and I’ve tried applying heat with a soldering iron to loosen it but no luck....
My cannon motor has a purple star drawn in magic marker on it, I think this means it got a replacement motor at some point (not sure if this might be relevant to my issue).
Any tips or suggestions welcome!
I really like this game, btw. I’ve gotten used to the face on the pf by now, and I love chasing those big juicy song jackpots!
Quoted from pinballjah:Thanks for the link! Are they easy to install, seem to come with bare wires as an attachment?
I haven't bought them but it looks like they come with the connectors, Stebel did say they are plug and play, so I assume its dead easy. I just saw them recently when I was buying stuff on Ali.
Quoted from Stebel:Added some pop bumper caps and light rings today. Also put a red flasher inside the bell, wired to insert flasher. Ordered new lightning bolt flashers from AliExpress ($26 CND for 3 shipped to my door). They are great.
I really don’t like the “R” insert being totally hidden under the cannon. Will try to add a visual aid soon. Still thinking of ideas.
During gameplay all I hear is Immortan Joe from mad max doing the call outs.
[quoted image][quoted image]
What is the play count on this under your audits?
Quoted from Darscot:They do look sweet and I do love color matching posts and rubber. I always put spotlights in my games for extra light but they tend to glare real bad because they point up straight up at the DMD. This seems like the way to go and at 50 cents a pop you cant really go wrong.</blockquote
Thanks for the link! Are they easy to install, seem to come with bare wires as an attachment?
The lightning bolts are plug and play. Star post lights need to be soldered.
Put under the post, run wires under the PF, cut to length, solder to the bulb of your choice. Usually GI for me.
Quoted from newpinbin:What is the play count on this under your audits?
Quoted from Darscot:I haven't bought them but it looks like they come with the connectors, Stebel did say they are plug and play, so I assume its dead easy. I just saw them recently when I was buying stuff on Ali.
Quoted from newpinbin:What is the play count on this under your audits?
I didn’t think to check the audits before I updated to new code. I have 40 games on it since updating.
Quoted from newpinbin:By the amount of wear marks it had to be a lot.
Pf is trashed. Going to get a new one soon. Us Canada border is still closed. I will get killed on taxes and customs if I order one now.
The game is playing fine. I only have one ball hang up and that’s between the cannon and the ramp.
DF6B1A32-18ED-479D-8B2D-E9C78BF79848 (resized).jpegQuoted from Stebel:Pf is trashed. Going to get a new one soon. Us Canada border is still closed. I will get killed on taxes and customs if I order one now.
The game is playing fine. I only have one ball hang up and that’s between the cannon and the ramp.
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That's actually very impressive. Shows how well the game is built. When you first bought the game did you have to replace anything?
My playfield is holding up well but my cannon is getting sloppy. Are you planning on just replacing the whole assembly? Keep us posted on your work.
Quoted from newpinbin:That's actually very impressive. Shows how well the game is built. When you first bought the game did you have to replace anything?
Replaced the top post of the right sling. It was broken in half. The game is pretty solid.
When I do the pf swap, I’ll get new nyliners for the auto Fire mech, ramp protector kit, and a plastic set. Then just general rebuild stuff, coil stops, all new pop bumpers, etc...
Quoted from Stebel:Replaced the top post of the right sling. It was broken in half. The game is pretty solid.
When I do the pf swap, I’ll get new nyliners for the auto Fire mech, ramp protector kit, and a plastic set. Then just general rebuild stuff, coil stops, all new pop bumpers, etc...
Could you send some more photos of that playfield including the shooter lane wear?
After almost 4 years, I finally nerfed my VE down to 6.5 degrees and closed the outlanes down. It has been setup absolutely vicious this whole time for very short games that were just brutal. But I finally got tired of it. Once in a while you could catch it by the tail and hang on, but it was happening too infrequently and I started thinking about selling it.
So far I'm liking the setup. In the first few games I was definitely able to control everything easier and rack up some scores. The feeds from the bell are not screaming down the middle, and the ramps were a ton easier. I'm pretty sure that when I open my house back up for league every high score on it will get slammed. But now I'll see if it sticks around like this or if its time is coming close to an end.
Quoted from BigalzPinz:......Thought I could live without the color DMD....Ah No....Its amazing !!
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Love this translite, where did you get it.
Quoted from Madmax541:Love this translite, where did you get it.
Think a guy on Ebay sells it.
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