(Topic ID: 111218)

ACDC Premium/LE - Ends ball mid ball

By cooked71

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 25 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by DNO
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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#1 9 years ago

My ACDC BIBLE has occasionally begun ending the ball mid ball (if that makes sense). Mid ball the flippers will go dead and the end ball dmd/sound/bonus sequence will start. Obviously the ball drains, and it kicks out the next ball, which plays normally. If this happens during ball save, you end up with 2 balls.

Only happens on occasion but is really annoying.

Thinking something to do with ball trough switches/opto (?) but not sure. Has anyone had the same issue on another ACDC/Stern?

Thanks

#2 9 years ago

I haven't, but like you, a loose ball trough opto would be my first guess. Perhaps reflow 'em.

#3 9 years ago

Yeah, probably trough opto problems. If you have another Stern you can try swapping the boards to see if the problem follows the boards.

#4 9 years ago

The two small opto boards at the end of the ball trough. reseat the connectors to them a couple times.

If problem returns I'd reflow the solder on the connector pins on the board.

LTG : )™

#5 9 years ago

Yes , had that on a shrek . Was an outlane switch , adjusted it and all was fine .
To locate the culprit go into switch test and bang on the playfield watching the display for the upcoming switch .

#6 9 years ago

Ball trough optos like others have said. Reflow (or replace) solder on the header pins. I'd also highly recommend replacing the actual connectors with locking ones so that they stay tight on there. I've done the zip-tie thing with the existing ones, but that didn't last terribly long before they started flaking out again.

#7 9 years ago

Ok before you try reflowing or replacing anything can i suggest unplugging any plugs that go to the trough and reconnect them.

This happened to my Tron and all i did was unplug and reconnect the trough plugs and it worked fine.

Hope this helps.

#8 9 years ago

you need change those connectors that go to both opto boards. do that and the problem goes away. it has to be done on every stern. every stern i own had the same issue. replaced all connectors on every game, no more issues since.

#9 9 years ago

Push the trough connectors on TIGHTER...push them on so the white plastic base part on the board slides down more down the metal pins - this will give you a better connection and most likely solve the issue...it's solved it on any game I've had with this problem.

#10 9 years ago

Thanks all. Re-seated the connectors on the opto boards. Hopefully this works. Otherwise will try re-flowing.

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from silver_spinner:

you need change those connectors that go to both opto boards. do that and the problem goes away. it has to be done on every stern. every stern i own had the same issue. replaced all connectors on every game, no more issues since.

What do you suggest to use as replacement connectors? I have this problem on my AC/DC also.

Actually, I used connector grease on them the last time it flaked out and it has not flaked again since then. That was about 6 months ago. Before greasing them, they would flake after about 3 weeks and would need to be disconnected and reconnected a few times followed by another 3 weeks of working.

#12 9 years ago

I had the same problem and just replaced the trough opto boards. They were only $10-15 each. I could not find any broken traces.

#13 9 years ago

normal molex connectors with trifurcon pins that you actually crimp..the good ones.
not the horrible ones williams used (and stern) on these.

Quoted from RacerRik:

What do you suggest to use as replacement connectors? I have this problem on my AC/DC also.
Actually, I used connector grease on them the last time it flaked out and it has not flaked again since then. That was about 6 months ago. Before greasing them, they would flake after about 3 weeks and would need to be disconnected and reconnected a few times followed by another 3 weeks of working.

#14 9 years ago

normal molex connectors with trifurcon pins that you actually crimp..the good ones.
not the horrible ones williams used (and stern) on these.

Quoted from RacerRik:

What do you suggest to use as replacement connectors? I have this problem on my AC/DC also.
Actually, I used connector grease on them the last time it flaked out and it has not flaked again since then. That was about 6 months ago. Before greasing them, they would flake after about 3 weeks and would need to be disconnected and reconnected a few times followed by another 3 weeks of working.

#15 9 years ago

Try to zip tie them or a little hot glue to keep them snug and then try replacing if that doesn't work.

Ive had that problem on various sterns and the zip method worked great.

#16 9 years ago

zip ties is a band aid and if you sell to another they accuse it of being "hacked". do the connectors and its good and done.
in the words of big daddy kane...........
ain't no half steppin'!

3 months later
#17 9 years ago

I'm just curious, what did you find to be the culprit? Mine is now doing the exact same thing.

#18 9 years ago

Another 3 months for mine without any trouble after using the connector grease.

1 month later
#19 8 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I'm just curious, what did you find to be the culprit? Mine is now doing the exact same thing.

In the end I just re-seated the connections as suggested, and it seemed to fix it. Would probably also use the zip ties and possibly the grease for a longer term solution.

#20 8 years ago

If reseating the connectors fixed it, that means all you have done is verify the problem. It will act up again. I give it a month or two at most depending on how often you play the game.

#21 8 years ago
Quoted from silver_spinner:

normal molex connectors with trifurcon pins that you actually crimp..the good ones.
not the horrible ones williams used (and stern) on these.

As far as I know, Trifurcon contacts are only available in 0.156 pitch. These connectors are 0.100 pitch. I never did find a better replacement connector. I just used the dielectric grease and solved the problem.

#22 8 years ago
Quoted from RacerRik:

If reseating the connectors fixed it, that means all you have done is verify the problem. It will act up again. I give it a month or two at most depending on how often you play the game.

Agreed, but I sold it before being able to find a more permanent solution.

3 weeks later
#23 8 years ago

Running into this same issue. Re-seated the connectors and hoping that does the trick.

Can someone take a picture of the zip-tie method? Not quite sure how you folks are doing that. It would be much appreciated.

#24 8 years ago

I ran into this problem with my MET, but it wasn't the connector. The LED on the trough board had the legs cut too short and they did not come through on the solder side like a component leg should. Essentially there's no way to properly solder the LED. So I got a warranty replacement.

Rob

#25 8 years ago

I just solder the wires directly to the boards, and never have a problem again.
I don't normally condone eliminating connectors, but they are nothing but trouble here.
And it's only 2/3 wires.

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