(Topic ID: 86651)

AC/DC Premium/LE club

By MMforever

5 years ago

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  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by 85vett
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Post #665 Explains ACDC rules Posted by alveolus (2 years ago)

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#1652 8 months ago

Here is my first machine since 1989, when I owned a Black Knight...
Just finished replacement of most of the LEDs and such...
This machine rocks!

IMG_20190301_180231 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#1679 8 months ago

I have noticed that my AC/DC Premium has a tendency for the ball to get stuck behind the AC/DC targets on occasion, between the rubber and the target. It appears to happen more often when the A and C are down and the ball will lodge behind the lightning bolt target. It is rather annoying when you are in multiball and one ball gets stuck there. If it stays there long enough while I bump the machine in efforts to dislodge the ball without other balls in play, the game does a ball search, the AC/DC targets reset and I have to take the glass off to dislodge the ball. Has anyone else noticed this happening or have a recommended fix?

#1681 8 months ago

I will try that... I just put the bubble in the middle of the level guage...

#1687 8 months ago
Quoted from 85vett:

How tight is that rubber behind the targets? It may be worth replacing as I've never had this happen once on my machine.

Perhaps it is not tight enough. It seems pretty tight to me, but I will check that again. I just finished replacing both ramps, all plastics, upgraded LEDs and replaced every piece of rubber that seemed to me to be hard, loose or worn, including the lower playfield The machine came off a route, so it required a LOT of TLC.

#1689 8 months ago

On my AC/DC Premium machine, there are gray posts like that, under the plastic barriers above the colored plastic pieces on the left side, under the left ramp.

gray posts (resized).jpg
#1691 8 months ago

Those 2 barrier plastic pieces on the left are -53 and -55 in case they got lost in the jumble.
They both are mounted on the gray posts...

#1692 8 months ago

I wanted to thank you for this info on these 1/2" target splints from Mezelmods.
I installed those and I don't think these targets will misalign for the next 100 years.
Price is right too...

Lower Playfield Target Splints (resized).jpg
#1695 8 months ago
Quoted from 85vett:

How tight is that rubber behind the targets? It may be worth replacing as I've never had this happen once on my machine.

I replaced that rubber behind the AC/DC targets again and still got balls stuck behind the lightning bolt target and the "D" target occasionally.
I decided to put some post rubbers on the metal rail behind the rubber and that seems to have solved my problem.

IMG_20190319_101829 (resized).jpg
#1697 8 months ago
Quoted from 85vett:

That's crazy. I wonder if the rail is a bit to low in the PF and that was the cause then.

Perhaps that rail is low. It was this way when I received the machine. It seems pretty rigid. I tried to find the attachments underneath the playfield to take off the metal rail or adjust it and it appears to be attached with blind nuts underneath and I was not able to move those nuts. The post rubbers on that rail seems to have done the trick for me though, so I am good.

1 week later
#1713 7 months ago
Quoted from KingBW:

If you press another button (I forget which) it alternates between the live version and the album version.

Hit the fire button to play the live versions.

1 week later
#1745 7 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yep. Gets stuck right there. I’m thinking if I make that rubber smaller, it may not be able to come to rest there. I think it’s resting on the right side of the rubber on the wire guide.

Not sure if this is related to your problem here, but I had an issue similar to this one where the ball gate was not functioning correctly. I found out that the band assembly mounting, holds the backboard in a vertical position, which affects that ball guide mounting. If the backboard is tilted backwards at all from vertical, that ball guide will not function properly. And the band assembly on my game was not connected correctly at all, which turned out to be my problem.

3 weeks later
#1829 6 months ago
Quoted from BigT:

Sorry if this has been covered, but when I play “Hell Ain’t a Bad Place to Be” when I am playing the lower playfield it launches a ball on the playfield. Is this normal and if so what is the purpose? The only thing that works on the playfield is the pop bumpers.

Check out this thread. I had this problem you mentioned, as well as sometimes multiball ending while one ball was still in play.
My problem ended up being malfunctioning opto cards in position #1 in the ball trough...
I suggest that you check that...

3 months later
#1957 3 months ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

I'm surprised nobody has bothered to fix the colordmd rom for ACDC. Maybe they thought the next update was around the corner and were waiting for that?

I was told at the Texas Pinball Festival by a ColorDMD rep, that an update from ColorDMD for AC/DC could be expected in 2019 for code 1.70.
There was no specific date given, but it seemed like there was some type of work going on in the background to make that happen.

#1967 3 months ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Maybe they were/are waiting for the oi mania fix?

That might be, but I only asked about an update for the current Stern code 1.70.
I commented to the ColorDMD rep that I was still running my machine on 1.68 while I waited for ColorDMD to update their code for my brand new LED ColorDMD display.
He made some comment initially that there were only a few graphics that would appear in the original red/orange.
So I commented back that if it was so few graphics to fix, that they could probably issue a code update pretty easily.
And the rep indicated that a fix would be issued at that point.
I pressed a little then and asked "WHEN?!" in a rather loud voice.
He did not answer at first and I said "like this year sometime?!?!" and he said yes.

#1969 3 months ago
Quoted from Crunch:

For those who purchased the lighted lighting bolts which color lightning bolts look the best yellow, white or blue?

I purchased the red ones with white LEDs and it looks a lot like lightning...
Which is what they are... lightning bolts...
They are VERY bright and the red seems to closely match the powder red coating on my machine.
Which is also what I wanted...
I think they should have been that way from the start from Stern.
Those little tiny LEDs on the stock lightning bolts are pretty dim in comparison.
I don't think anyone with epilepsy should play this game with those upgraded lightning bolts installed.
I don't have epilepsy, so I play it all the time.

#1983 88 days ago
Quoted from dabear007:

If your talking about the LED bolts from HookedonPinball, I like the “bright white” bulbs. After much debate I think the “blue” LED’s are a little harsh and stick out too much, there aren't any other "blue-white" bulbs of that hue on the game. The "bright white" LED’s are really bright but more warm and not as sharp, I think they blend well with all the stock LED’s. Feels like a being at live concert when they all go off during multi-ball.
I’ve had some issues with individual bulbs not working on the T-bolts, sending 2 bolts back to have Robert take a look at them. It's not a power issue, think it's a seating problem where the power wires connect on the back of the bolts.
He’s been really great with communication.
I’ve been dreading pulling the middle bolt. It’s a super tight fit pushing the connector past the left ramp rail. Left and right T-bolts are cake to install.
Definitely my favorite mod.
Well, behind the "must have" ColorDMD (of course).
Worth it.[quoted image][quoted image]

Well said...
I agree completely...

2 weeks later
#2077 74 days ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

Looks quite simple on the right side and the left has screws.
How many screws did it take to remove?

I replaced both of my ramps and this diverter was so tight between the ramps that it was very difficult to remove. I decided to drill out those rivets and replace them with screws with lock nuts beneath. See attached. It is still tight, but I made it work with the new ramps.

Ramp Screws (resized).jpg
#2080 74 days ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

I added the vol control already under the start button.....its awesome...
I bet someone has popped out the plate and made it something cool....I could put my remotes in there for some of the mods..HAHA

Pinnovators PINPAC2 SAM MAC device works great in that spot for me.

PINPAC2 SAM MAC (resized).jpg
1 week later
#2088 64 days ago
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

Ok, I have a question/issue that has got me stumped. So, when all else fail, ask the folks who'll know. Ok, I have a Premium Vault which I bought NIB in January. The train which has a flashing blue LED annoys me, so I wanted to swap it out with either a yellow or frosted white one. So, I picked up a yellow one, plugged it into the wedge socket....nothing. Flipped it over, ..... nothing. Ok, opened my parts box, grabbed 3 or 4 different wedge led's and tried them, nothing. What the heck is with that bulb? Only the original blue one works?

That's a flasher bulb, so you will need a 12V flasher of some type for it to work, if you were not aware of that.
Most wedge bulbs are for illumination and are 6.3V which won't work on the train flasher.

#2091 64 days ago
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

That makes sense. Thank you. I didn't think there were differences in the LEDs. (Now I feel like a dumbass hahahaha)

Don't feel bad. I learned about that bulb the same way... See attached thread for more info...

#2094 64 days ago
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

Thank you! Now the fun appears to be finding a domed, yellow 6.3v #555 Flasher. Red and White are all I can find, and that's at Marco Specialties. They say the hunt is 1/2 the fun.....

Make that a 12V flasher and I think you will be pleasantly surprised...
I think the manual has incorrect information on the flashers...
You can check which bulbs are flashers on the test menu on the machine..
There is a test selection just for flashers...
All of those will be 12V... Including the train bulb...

#2096 64 days ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

That bulb isn't a flasher, it is a standard bulb. I replaced mine with a frosted blue.

You are correct. It is a 12V bulb.
It is tested on the flasher menu on the machine though, because it is 12V, which is what is used for the other flasher bulbs.

#2098 64 days ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Maybe we aren't talking about the same bulb, the one in the center of the nose on the train is 6 volt standard bulb. It isn't the easiest to change out, but it is definitely 6 volt.[quoted image]

Well, a 12V DC LED works in that position. And other large bayonet base flasher bulbs on the machine also work on 12V DC.

#2099 64 days ago

On page 60 in the manual, outputs 17-23 are listed as 20VDC outputs and the train bulb is included.

#2111 59 days ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Dumb question, does the blue one work when you plug it back in? I know it was a tight fit when changing out mine, I took the train off and had to hold the socket to make sure the bulb went all the way in.

The 6.3V GI bulbs are AC so they are not polarized. The 12DC flasher bulbs are polarized on LEDs like the one on the front of the train. Most of the other flasher bulbs have bayonet bases, so you cannot put them in backwards.

#2113 54 days ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

I’m looking to add a color DMD to my Luci Vault. Has color DMD updated the rom for the 1.7 software?

Nope.... 1.70 code is still not available from ColorDMD. Yet...
You can get 1.68 though...
Graphics that are not coded in 1.68 code come up in red/amber on 1.70 code.
Perhaps one day they will catch up to Stern.

#2115 54 days ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Thanks for the response. How many things come up that are not colorized?

I am told that very few graphics come up in red.
However, I have not seen that myself, because I am still using 1.68 on my machine for this very reason.
So, all my graphics work correctly.
I plan to update to 1.70 once ColorDVD releases an update.
Perhaps it will happen this year...

1 week later
#2173 42 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I saw that too, where does it plug in underneath though?

Yes, there is a hole in the playfield, located to the left side of the left ramp. There are a few other wires in the hole, so you have to get the plug for the train flasher through that hole also. Under the playfield is the mating plug for the other end. You will have to lift the playfield to access that area.

1 week later
#2221 35 days ago

I think the wires that you have the arrows pointed to are for an optional tournament start button.
There is a hole in the front of my machine where it can be mounted if you want it...
If you do want it, you will need one diode and the start button, which is not really expensive...
You might also want a bright white LED to make it stand out, assuming you like this optional button..

IMG_20190219_183811 (resized).jpg
#2226 35 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

I ended up putting blue loctite on my bell ball. It kept becoming loose and sticking on the play field. I also re-shimmed the bell because it was rubbing on the right hand metal guide.
I also had to put electrical tape on the far left strobe/lightning bolt flasher as it kept popping out during play.
Had to adjust the far righthand strobe/lightning bolt flasher because would knock the ball off of the metal crossover ramp.
Love the game though. It plays faster than any of my other games and I like the speed when it gets going with the right song! The game in my opinion can be very rewarding with the lights going crazy, good call outs and great music.

I had the exact same experiences. I put epoxy on the threads for the bell clanger and fixed that. Mine kept unscrewing and falling out on the playfield no matter how tight I screwed it in. I was able to bend the leads out some on that LED flasher on the left and it seems to be fastened appropriately now. Also had the problem with the right flasher, but a little "Adjustment" on that and it is no longer a problem.

#2228 35 days ago
Quoted from Strummy:

Still my favorite game since I started this addiction. I've owned it for nearly 2 years and I drove about 14 hours round trip for it before the vault came out. Love this game!

I got you beat on the round trip to get this game. I drove from Mississippi to Chicago, stayed overnight, got the machine the next morning and drove back that next day, on a weekend. It was like -4 degrees when I left Chicago and I was not sure if my truck would start.. But it did and I made it home... I probably will not do that again...

1 week later
#2238 25 days ago
Quoted from Mach5Amps:

Just sharing my experiences, in case anyone else sees similar.
My right main play field flipper didn't have a coil sleeve installed. It resulted in a weak flipper that occasionally would get stuck in the actuated position. Put a coil sleeve in, and all is well.
Had a mystery screw show up, and block the "A" lane of the upper AXE lanes. Then, found another mystery screw when installing the coil sleeve. Turns out, the band wall had lost two screws (behind mini-Malcolm). Reinstalled, no harm done.
Back to playing...[quoted image]

You will want to make sure that those screws stay in place and the band assembly is mounted correctly. Because if it is not, the band assembly actually holds the back wall of the playfield up at a vertical angle and if that back panel is not at 90 degrees vertical, the ball gate at the top right will not engage properly to stop or release balls, even if that ball gate is mounted correctly to the rear of the playfield. It will also sometimes cause the ball to get stuck on that gate as well in some cases.

#2261 21 days ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

I have the 10" and it's a monster with the dedicated amp. Needed anti-dampering tape it was so much.
Music and roaring are great combinations.

The premium machine comes with a huge woofer already installed...
I also got the pinnovators PINPAC2 SAM MAC device on the coin door for volume control and headphone jack with separate volume control.
That also gives me a separate subwoofer port in the back box for connection to an external self powered subwoofer, which I have acquired and placed under the machine.
With both of those on about half volume, I can vibrate things on the walls and disturb my teenagers on the other side of the house...

#2263 21 days ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Unfortunately only the original run got the big sub, my first AC/DC had it. The VE got a smaller sub.

I think my woofer is 12 inches...
My wife says that she is not sure if the shaker or the woofer/subwoofer combination vibrates the machine more.
If my wife has the TV on some stupid show in the room and it interferes with my machine play, I can turn the machine up enough that the TV cannot be heard and the message is received, loud and clear. Time to watch stupid TV shows in another room...
I also get a message, from time to time, to please put on the headphones (silence the machine) and stop disturbing the children while they study or whatever.
It will literally vibrate things on the wall and you can hear it outside...

2 weeks later
#2323 7 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

I searched for and did not find any good information on this. Can someone explain the “Live Song Mode”?
My menu options do not allow anything other than “None”.

While the machine is at rest in attract mode, you can push the right flipper button and operate a "radio" on the machine. Songs are changed with flipper action. If you hit the fire button, you get the live versions of those songs.

#2338 1 day ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Anybody have suggestions on replacing the big bulbs behind and under the ramps with led bulbs? Also which ones work best behind lightning bolts? My premium is an original run and still uses those incandescents. Was curious what vaults have there.

I like bright LEDs, so I put these 8 SMD LED bulbs under the ramps and in other flasher locations under the bumpers and such.
They are much brighter than the original incandescent bulbs and are available in several different colors if you want something other than white.
I got the white ones...

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