(Topic ID: 86651)

AC/DC Premium/LE club

By MMforever

4 years ago

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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by DirtyDeeds
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Post #665 Explains ACDC rules Posted by alveolus (1 year ago)

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#84 4 years ago
Quoted from taylor34:

I was thinking about just removing mine. I disabled it a while back and the game plays much better. Might just remove it entirely, see if it looks better.

I saw a guy made a cross-over ramp in plexi. Looked pretty cool as it blended in more and also picked up some of the colors from the game..

I may have to give this a try and disable that solenoid and see how it feels. Never thought about it before but after you mentioned it my interest sparked. This is one thing I do like the Pro over the Prem/LE on is it's a lot easier to control when the ball goes to the cannon without removing both ramps.

#96 4 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

I don't mind the crossover ramp, but it certainly could be used for more than loading the cannon. How about setting up for a bell hurry up shot for example?

That would be cool. Maybe take a page out of the Avengers playbook and make that gate controllable with the flippers. That would be the ultimate. Shoot the left ramp and you pick left or right exit why holding a flipper. No flipper choice made it diverts the ball based off current logic.

2 months later
#112 4 years ago
Quoted from sturner:

I've got a premium and while I love the game, I hate the translite. Does anyone have any recommendations for alternatives? I've been a little weary of the aftermarket stuff because I wasn't sure how it compares to the real thing.

Best option out there IMHO. He may have some left over but you better hurry.


2 years later
#681 1 year ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Spending my Saturday watching Street Fighter tournaments and messing with expanding the Helen decal set to be more full featured.

Does this mean you are going to be able to sell these again? I always thought it was lame you were told to stop since it was original art.

I am using one of the pro overlays on my mini Pf and it looks great but I would be super excited to see you come up with something for the mini PF that tied thing in better.

#701 1 year ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I got 179mil today ... my highest so far. I saw for the first time at the end of the ball bonus total a 2x on 2 balls and a 3x on one ball pop up in a yellow circle on the ColorDMD then blow up the total end of ball bonus to a new total with that multiplier. Not sure what I did for that, but it felt like I accomplished something new after 8 months of playing every few days.

Sounds like you got the bonus doubler. You can get a separate multiplier by draining out an outlane when that lane is flashing. If you go down an inlane while the lane is flashing it doubles just your next shot where if you get it on an outlane it doubles the bonus. You can get multiples of this in one ball (collecting during MB) which can really blow up a bonus.

#708 1 year ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

My distributor said it is supposed to be roughly the same, just waiting on the pictures before I pull the trigger.

My understanding is that the drummer (don't recall his name as I don't follow the band) will be removed from the art and the moving band will have a stagnate drummer vs the active one on the current prem. Someone posted up a pic of the Pinball Arcade Version and the general consensus was that would be what it would look like.

1 week later
#753 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Anybody have a red translucent apron for sale?

Stern sells them now, again. They've gone up on price to $100 from what I think was $60 before they stopped selling them last time. Not surprised, it is Stern after all...


1 week later
#765 1 year ago

I tied into the ramp flashers. Makes for a really cool effect when the cannon is ready to be fired.

2 months later
#789 1 year ago

It's just a 12 volt flasher pad alligator clipped to the coil for the plunger. Get the pad from comet and save a good chunk of money. If you want pre-made contact pinball refinery as they (at lease used to) make and sell it.

1 month later
#810 1 year ago
Quoted from dr_spidey:

I'm having the same issue. My right stand-up target on the lower playfield (switch 52) never registers. I move it, tighten it up, then like 5 plays later it stops working. Anyone figure out how to fix this.

The target splints resolve this problem. This game and Tron is where my initial idea came from when I pitched it to Mezel Mods. My only regret is that i wish the price would have stayed where it initially was but they do solve the leaning target problems.

1 month later
#859 1 year ago
Quoted from NYP:

Having a problem with a new AC/DC vault, the ball gets stuck on the 3 AXE lanes up top. It's not the switch, you can see the ball rolls over the switch and then gets stuck on where the slot is routed out in the wood playfield. I don't want to start filing anything so thought I wold ask here if this is common and if there is a fix. I have to raise the back legs up really too high to get it to stop and would rather not have to do this, makes the game too fast. TIA

Is it possible it's getting caught on the rubbers from the lower part of the inlane? The inlanes are different top and bottom (one side is more oval shaped). When i shopped my game I got one backwards and it caused a ball hang up. If memory servers me correctly the oval side should be towards the bottom. Check that first.

Next, what is the pitch of the game? If it's not at min 6.5 I would increase to that pitch. The bubble level can be off so measure with a digital level. They are pretty cheap at hardware stores if you don't have one and are very handy to have.

If the top two don't solve this and you are 100% sure the ball is past the metal switch already then I'm fairly stumped. You would see an obvious flaw in the game for it to hold up a ball like.

1 month later
#888 1 year ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Last night I collected all the songs and hit the scoop to change songs. I did, then drained. So after collecting 9 songs, and changing songs, THEN WHAT??? Start collecting songs again? Damn this machine kicks my ass every single night.

Assuming you are talking about songs to light jukebox and not all the songs on the jukebox (since there are 12). If so, yes, you change to a new song and recollect them again to light the juke box. Do this for all 12 songs and you get to the wizard mode called encore.

#898 1 year ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Really wanna change songs via PB, but now realizing might have hard time with what song objectives are. Ultra large apron cards maybe lol?! Guess it helps I have NO idea how to use PB. Need to learn, my MET especially needs a refreshing.

I wouldn't worry about the song objectives. For the most part the only difference between songs is how their scoring is done. Some songs are more valuable due to the risk of the shots vs others. You have some minor objective differences like the use of mini PF, the canon mode and TNT for instance but the main objectives stay the same (collect 8 songs to lite jukebox).

P.S. - If you want to progress further in the game and are struggling with ball times you can adjust the number of songs needed in order to light the juke box. Some will frown on reducing that setting but it your game so make it fun for you. Especially while you are learning the rules.

#900 1 year ago

The settings are counter intuitive. For music make the number less (will increase it's volume) and for call outs make the number higher (will reduce it's volume). Not positive but I believe those are towards the end of the game adjustment menu.

#919 1 year ago
Quoted from gripwhip:

New Owner! Great game!
I have a couple of tech issues/help requested. It is a Vault Edition.
1. The LED bulb in the backglass sometimes does not light. It will sometimes flash momentarily when I turn on the game and then go black. I tried adjusting the white bulb holders and moving them, and re-inserting the bulb. This will work, but then maybe a day later same issue. Any adjustment ideas?
2. TNT single target behind drops does not register during TNT song. It works, but you really have to push it with your finger to make it go off in the switch test. A ball hitting it does not make it go off. Best way to adjust it to increase sensitivity?

Been a long time since I've looked at that target so if my memory is wrong please forgive me. If my memory is correct that target is under the plastics that make up the TNT box. It's not hard to remove that box but does take a bit of time. I think you need to remove the cross over to get it off.

3 weeks later
#980 1 year ago
Quoted from KingBW:

A couple of months ago when I inquired, they said to get the 2 piece one as it is easier to install there. They did say however that "some" people on here have said that they used the one piece one to ensure that the splint would not bend over time. My next order with them, I'm just going to go with the 2 piece - easier is better in my book. If someone has a different experience with them, comments are welcome.

2 piece for the square faced targets. 1 piece for the rectangle (smaller) targets, like the ones in front of the ramps.

1 piece will work but it requires you to soldier the connections. The 2 piece was designed for those that aren't comfortable soldiering.

#984 1 year ago
Quoted from Strummy:

Can someone please explain the VIP passes to me?

Credits you for a shot. Normally, the most lucrative shot but that's not 100%.

Best to save them for multiball. Collect 4 of the 5 shots needed for your add a ball. Then avoid that shot. When your 2nd ball drains hit the VIP to collect the last add a ball shot to basically extend MB.

#987 1 year ago
Quoted from Strummy:

Thanks. So how do you hit the VIP?

Button on the Lock bar.

You get them from skill shots and in longer balls combos.

#1002 1 year ago

It's just a simple V plastic. Installing would be a bitch though since the stock ramp is riveted in.

I could do the pinball mod thing and buy this, cut it and sell it for $100 a piece.... But seriously, if you wanted to do this to your game, this would work just fine and would be clear as well.


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#1005 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

If Stern were shipping games with clear plastic crossover ramps people would be modifying them with metal and accuse Stern of cost cutting. I'm happy with my metal crossover ramp.

So true! I personally like my ramp with the train sticker. The plain metal was a bit of an eye sore but with this mod it seemed to pit in better.

Quoted from the_one:

Stock ramp is not riveted, it has 2 screws on the left hand side underneath ... So disassembled within 30 seconds.
The only challenge is the additional plastic to avoid ball dropping from the ramp when coming from the diverter. But in most cases it will work without that additional, my set had the plastic as well so I riveted it to the main Macralon crossover ramp.

Good to know. I always though it was riveted in as the top shows rivets. Looks like that holds a bracket with the screws under more review. Makes this an even easier mod to try for those that want to. Shoot, if you use the wall guards that entrance piece would be even less likely to be needed since those guards are a bit taller. Would take just trimming the end of the guard a bit to have it fit.

2 weeks later
#1051 1 year ago
Quoted from xsonics2k2:

I'm getting a ball hangup on the top right rollover, the rubbers are wide and if the ball rests in the playfield cutout for the switch, it will just sit there. I've seen others post about this... maybe a cliffy lane switch will fix it?

Can you post a pic of exactly where this is? If it's where I'm thinking it is, changing that 7/16 OD rubber with a 3/D rubber will fix the problem. Friend of mine (luci as well) had a tight clearance their and that rubber was actually holding the ball in the lane on slow moving balls.

If it's hanging up with just clearcoat their then a cliffy wont fix that.

#1052 1 year ago

I've got a question for everyone though. Anyone elses bell swing too much? I've noticed recently that after a solid bell hit my bell will keep swinging for more than 20 seconds. I know this timeline is correct because I constantly lose my 2x scoring because the bell doesn't stop swinging in enough time to keep building it or restart the timer. Really frustrating now. I don't think there was a code change their but it would be nice if after a couple seconds the magnet would stop the bell.

1 week later
#1068 11 months ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Just wondering for those that have the Pinbits illuminated lightning bolts if anyone has preference for the standard white vs. red. vs. blue filters and how they look in actual gameplay on the playfield (I've watched the Youtube video but hard to see how it lights up the playfield with the color variations).
Any opinions from those that have installed these?

I went with white and have been really happy with them. Yes, they are very bright!

Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Is this a normal ball hang up spot?
If so, any fixes?

I wouldn't say it's common but does happen occasionally. I can usually get mine to come loose with a light nude during the ball search.

Quoted from jester523:

Yeah, unfortunately.
I'm looking at this post and seeing if this is the issue.
Edit - this wire says "shaker motor ground." There is No where to plug it though. Did i get the wrong part?

Their should be a long single brown wire in the bottom of the cab (around the transformer). It's going to be hidden in that mess of wires down there. it's the only single brown wire in the lower part of the cab so you will know you have the right one. I think it should be an IDC connector though.

Found a video of someone installing their shaker in a MET. Will be the same for AC/DC.

#1071 11 months ago

Don't feel to bad. I spent 30 mins trouble shooting a shaker install on a game I bought used. Fix was simple, just had to turn it on in the settings. Previous owner turned it off since it didn't have one and it took me 30 mins to even check that.

#1079 11 months ago
Quoted from xsonics2k2:

My War Machine spinner is barely recognizing a solid shot up the left lane.
I noticed the metal spinning arm is resting on a screw that holds the bumper (to the right) in place. (See picture)
The metal arm that holds the spinner has a flat wear spot that causes the target to rest at an angle instead of straight up and down. (See picture) The ball will typically go right under without touching the target, sometimes it will brick off the front.
I have been messing around with adjustments and can't seem to find one that works. I tried loosening the screw and moving the bumper to the right, but it didn't help. I'm tempted to cut a few milimeters off the arm so it doesn't touch the screw.
I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction here.

Does it spin fine but not register or is it not spinning well at all?

If spinning well but not registering hits as it should:
I think the reason for this is because the switch isn't very sensitive. Looking at your top pic I can see clear daylight between the switch and the spinner arm. They should be resting on each other ever so slightly. That arm doesn't move very much distance so it needs to be making a solid connection when the spinner is upside-down. As yours sits now on a good hit to the spinner I'm betting it's just not registering well.

If it's not spinning well then that screw could be the issue but in the pic it looks like their is plenty of clearance in the spinner itself even while resting on the screw. I can see where it can move up in the mount so it doesn't look like their is any binding there.

#1080 11 months ago
Quoted from xsonics2k2:

Sorry for the delay, here it is. Yep, I need to put a different rubber in there. Thanks!

Shoot, I had that location confused with another location. That orientation looks correct. By the looks of it their is clearance for the ball as well so it shouldn't be holding up their. Is the game at 6.5 degrees pitch or more? If not, I would adjust to at min 6.5 (Stern's recommended pitch) and see if it still continues. If so you could switch to one size smaller rubber their (the long one) for which the extra stretch will give more clearance. Last option would be some mylar around the switch. I don't think a cliffy will work as if the ball is already moving slow enough to be caught like this I feel it would get caught on the upper side of the switch cliffy.

3 weeks later
#1095 11 months ago

Must be a placeholder for something in other games with the metal backbox.

Here is my original and nothing is there:

ac-dc (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#1159 10 months ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Interesting to read how high the supers can get in MB.
Any strategies for getting them? Default setting seems pretty tough to me.

Yeah, do tell more. My supers are always in the low 20 million range. Supers are supposed to be the sum of the jackpots collected so are you saying they are effected by PF multipliers as part of that initial calculation? I.E. You collect all your base jackpots at 2x PF so your super base is now 44(ish) million?

1 month later
#1229 9 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Hi, Toads.
Helpful photo!
Does the polished window become clearer or just polished? I mean, if the acrylic opacifies, no amount of polishing would help, correct? If the polishing *does* help, then perhaps much of the perceived clouding of the window can actually be polished out, etc.
Thanks for your time!

It will only help if the under side is scratched up. If it's cloudy that is on the top from the clear. Big thing to note though when looking at used games. Is the window cloudy or just dirty. Some owners are afraid to take the lower PF off and don't clean there. It's super easy to do and takes all of 5 mins but it can look intimidating. I take mine off every couple hundred of plays. By that time it does have a light coating of pinball dust already there.

When buying used you should be OK with a prem as very few had a cloudy window but some did so just check it out first. It will be obvious.

For mods:
- External sub
- Bass drum covers for the diverter coils
- Pinbits Lightening bolt flashers (their are flashers behind the stock plastics but they aren't great)
- Red apron with the interactive lights that integrate with the canon flasher. Makes a cool strobe effect when the cannon is ready.
- Shaker (some don't like them but I enjoy it on this pin)
- Roof top mod (if you can still find one) as they cover that ugly hole in the back right corner as well as add lighting for the band members
- mantis protectors for the scoops

#1232 9 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Thanks, '85Vette, for your help. I'm encouraged to know that the window can be polished without *too* much fuss and that the "clouded" window is limited to the LE's.

To make sure I'm being clear. Their are some premiums with them but they are few and far between. You can't polish out the cloudiness but if you get minor scratches you can polish them out carefully. It's acrylic so all those rules apply.

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Thanks for these suggestions. Don't know what the covers for the diverter coils might be, but I will research it. Kerry at Mantis says he makes no protectors for this playfield, so I wonder: did you mean Cliffy? And what mod maker offers the lighted apron?

Thought they were manits protectors. Must be someone else making the same style then. Here is what I got years ago. I just have the two scoops and not the other two. Looks like he sells as a full kit now. I've got thousands of plays on my game with them and no wear at all.

ebay.com link » Stern Pinball Acdc Total Protection Kit

#1237 9 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I looked at this eBay kit per your suggestion. It appears to include a protector that mounts behind the drops. Interesting. All the pieces are stainless. I wonder if they're "clangy." Did you have to drill any holes in the top of your PF to install the scoop protectors from this kit?
Oh, and thanks for your message.

No, they mount from the underneath. I don't recall if they fit in existing holes or you make new ones with self tapping wood screws. I believe you make your own.

1 week later
#1243 8 months ago
Quoted from rai:

I got one from another Pinsider but I’m curious what how can I add any additional lighting to that area?

If memory serves me correctly you got one of my versions (red ones).

With the matrix system it's stupid easy now. Their are two GI bulbs behind the band. Just get a matrix kit with the color lights you want, plug it in their and use the double sided tape on the roof mod. To integrate into the flasher you can create a harness to piggy back off that plug. Just need a male and female .093 molex connectors and plugs as well as about 3 feet of wire. Soldier one end to a 12V LED strip of your choice and the other end make a bridge to go in between the factory plug. Or you can use a 12V matrix plug, get a splitter and two LED light strips. One goes in the back and the other in the front so both sides still flash.

Not hard but can be time consuming but with the advent of the comet matrix system it's way easier now.

#1245 8 months ago

You just need two 12v 6 SMD pads. One goes on each side of the apron underneith it. Then you just wire them into the harness for the cannon flasher. Can't recall if it's a z connector or molex.

Do yourself a favor and get one more pad (in yellow) and put it in the cannon. You'll thank me later

#1249 8 months ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Can you show a picture of the LED placement you have in your cannon? That sounds like a great idea!

Here is a pic of all lights and wiring.

The red and black is the cannon and the added IDC is the apron lights. Now that they have them a frosted 12v strip may be better in the cannon. I may try that.

20180630_093055 (resized).jpg20180630_093115 (resized).jpg20180630_093119 (resized).jpg20180630_093228 (resized).jpg
#1251 8 months ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

How did you connect the cannon LED to power? Do you have it tied into a specific bulb/flasher? I have my translucent red apron lit up but I have to check what I have it tied into as I can't remember on my AC/DC if it's pulsing lighting tied into my flipper buttons or if it is tied into some of the flashers....

Should be tied into the flasher by the canon. That way the canon and aprons flash/pulse when the canon is ready to be shot.

1 month later
#1268 7 months ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

No headphones. I mean, at 55 its still loud as hell, so it's not like I have no volume. But something happened. Thanks for yer reply King.

Have you reseated the connectors for the speakers on the board? My MET does this periodically. That in line filter has just enough weight to it to where over time it will pull the connector ever so slightly loose. When that happens it's like putting soft mute on it.

#1271 7 months ago
Quoted from Goalie:

New owner here- sorry for the dumb question but is the ball in the mini playfield a regular ball or some sort of ceramic the one in my game is pretty dark. Do i take off the mini pf by unscrewing the brackets and that’s it?

It's a standard ball.

depends on which version you have on how to change it out.

Original - Remove the 4 screws that hold the mini PF on as well as the handful of wire connectors for the lights and switches. Pull the PF off, replace ball and clean the mini PF. Should take you 10 mins tops for the first time to do this. It looks intimidating but is really easy.

VE - remove the plexi window and service from the top. Change the ball and clean the PF.

1 week later
#1274 7 months ago
Quoted from RustyLizard:

I have the new version Luci and hate the way the left orbit hits the top of the right sling. What is proper set up? Should it go to the right flipper? I would almost rather have it activate the sling than hit where it does. I don't lose a lot of balls that way but just don't care for the action. Thanks for any suggestions.

I think just about every AC/DC I've played I've hit the side of the cabinet when the ball is coming down that right orbit to keep it off the sling. I'm not sure what SR had in his mind when designing it but if you want to get the ball to go to the flipper instead of the sling it will require you to move the very end of that lower orbit over to the left just a tad. I'm not sure how much (if any) room for adjustment their is in that hole though.

#1276 7 months ago

Really just some trial and error but you only have two real options:
- move the end of that right orbit lane out towards the center of the PF more
- add something (maybe a real thin felt strip) on that rail at the end to help bump the ball to the left some

Keep in mind, anything you do here will make shooting the right orbit more difficult.

4 weeks later
#1288 6 months ago
Quoted from KJL:

5 years too late but how is the bell shot actually counted on ACDC LE/Premium
I bought my ACDC Premium in the early 2013 run. It is rare to get the 3x multiplier on my game due to the swinging bell. I recently played a pro for the first time and could get to 3x and keep it going to scores 2x my best ever (my previous best was 400 Million with factory but no extra ball) so it made me want to ask you guys how the bell is actually counted on the LE/Prem.
My usual problem like I am sure everyone is that the bell starts to swing with the magnet but even when I hit it square or get to the hole I don’t get a score. I have to wait for it to stop swinging to get a hit and in multi-ball that is rare. I see videos of the hells bells strategy and all the hits people get but that is not possible for me with my game so far.
Thanks for any insight into how you get bell hits. How do you play for 2x 3x? Thanks

It's registered via an opto in the bracket that holds the bell. It must stop swinging before the next shot will register. Some games swing longer than others. Your, like mine, swings a lot so I have to avoid the shot until it does stop swinging. I'm sure you could make it swing less by roughing up the pivot point or adding a weak spring but it's not something I ever worried about so never attempted anything.

#1292 6 months ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

What is the magnet for, if it does not slow down bell. Did they just forget to code it?

It's their to actually swing the bell. It was coded into the VIP pass but was recently removed and only does that after the 3rd devil horn award. That's why people used to do hells bells all day on prem/le games as a VIP pass would extend the 2x or 3x PF multipliers.

#1294 6 months ago

After shooting the lit devil horns around the PF the juke box will light to collect an award (same place you change a song). Their are several different awards that were recently added, one of which doesn't work still (OI mode). And apparently I was wrong. The swinging Bell is the 4th award, not the 3rd.

- Changed the rule for the DEVIL HORNS. Instead of lighting all 3 shots
at once, they are lit in order: BELL, RIGHT LOOP, LEFT LOOP. Once the
LEFT LOOP shot is made to complete the sequence, the Tunes N Stuff lamp
is lit to collect "STUFF".
- Added STUFF to Tunes N Stuff:
- 2X DEVIL HORNS (multiplies the lit DEVIL HORN shots by 2).
- 7,500,000 POINTS
Using the VIP PASS button also awards all features available
at the BELL (which includes advancing the PLAYFIELD MULTIPLIER).
(The Premium/LE will swing the bell using the BELL MAGNET.)
- 10,000,000 POINTS

1 week later
#1302 5 months ago
Quoted from Shadrac:

Hi guys,
Does the cannon is able to fire the ball for a full left orbit or left ramp on your machine? On my Premium, the cannon seems to be a bit weak...

Yours is probably fine. A canon shot to the left orbit normally only makes it about halfway up and comes back down. Left ramp even less. The left orbit is the most safe shot I've found from the canon but I still only go for the bell or drops 99% of the time.

#1325 5 months ago
Quoted from jester523:

What do you guys use to keep your lightening bolt flashers from falling out? Mine were initially hot glued by stern, but that didn't hold. I was thinking of trying my own hot glue.
I also bought hooked pinball lightening bolts, but thought it might be cool if it flashed from behind as well.

Replaced with pinbits bolts

I'm really surprised hot glue didn't work.

#1332 5 months ago

Never came on the prem. Best way to help with sdtm on prem out of pops is a bigger rubber at the end of that lane. When ac/DC first came out a lot of us put a post rubber there. Just have to replace the post but is easy to do.

#1344 5 months ago
Quoted from jester523:

Somehow Angus's leg plastic broke on my Luci. I'm guessing stern doesn't sell the plastic pieces separately? Not sure I want to buy a whole set for just the leg...but...it's kind of annoying me.

Happened to mine years ago. I wound up using glue on mine. It held for about 6 months and broke again. I glued it again and put mylar over it and it last about 12 months. I've put his leg in the coindoor for now

#1346 5 months ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Can someone take a picture of that area and post - Angus's leg plastic broke??

I'm letting a friend play my game right now so it's at his house so I can't grab a picture of the broken leg. But it breaks at his knee, where I've pointed out in green below. If I ever replace it, I'm going to re-inforce that spot. Problem is that even mylar on the back can cause interference and make it stick.
AC (resized).png

#1348 5 months ago

The plastic is really thin at that point as it is where his knee is and is also the pivot point for the movement. The force of going back and forth just does it in over time.

I tried several things with no luck due to it being to thick as that part goes behind his stag-net leg and the back plastic. If you go too thick his leg gets stuck in the air and doesn't come back to it's resting position.

Only thing I didn't try would be to put some sort of metal bracket on the side. It would have to be really thin and then mounting it would be a challenge.

In a perfect world, a REALLY thin piece of metal that you double sided taped to the back of his leg would be the best option. Not sure if metal that thin is possible though but it would probably need to be about half the thickness of a cliffy.

Probably the best option would be to have someone make replacement legs in PETG and just apply a decal to it as a replacement. Stern wont make just that plastic so you have to buy the full kit for it thus why those that have a broken leg generally just deal with it. If I had a laser cutter I'd consider making that piece but I don't and making it by hand would be hard, if not impossible.

#1350 5 months ago

$15 is more than it's probably worth but while saying that I probably would buy one. It's better than buying a whole plastic kit for just that one part and I'm OCD so it drives me nuts.

So, yup, I'd be in.

#1354 5 months ago

download (resized).jpg
1 week later
#1358 5 months ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

I’m leaning towards pinstadium or Orion’s Belt as I can do more than just enhance the lightning bolt flashers.
Any thoughts or opinions?

Please don't.

I 100% recommend the pinbit bolts and the hooked bolts (if you can find a set that will last). The Orion's belt falls into the category of, "Someone asked if they could do something before they asked if they should do it.". To me that system is WAY overkill but I know some people will like it. Just my opinion.

Do you already have the clear red apron with the pinball refinery kit that adds flashers under their and behind the ramp diverters? Those actually integrate very well into the game play as they let you know when the canon is active for something.

#1361 5 months ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

No on the apron. And that’s a good idea, Maybe that with the lightning bolts are the direction I should go. What did you mean about finding a set that will last (hooked’s version)? He’s up to ver4 so maybe it was early runs of the mod?

I honestly don't recall which version I had. I went through 3 sets before throwing in the towel. The LED's were going out in rows. He was great to work with and was replacing them with no hassle at all but at that point I changed to the pinbits ones. I do prefer the look of the hooked ones if he's gotten the reliability figured out. It's been several years so I'm sure I was on a pretty early version.

2 weeks later
#1376 4 months ago

Yeah, you need the power adapter that goes to it. They are cheap on ebay. Just search for an LED light strip power adapter. Other than that you would just have to cut off the current connector and soldier in a new power and ground wire and connect it to either a 12volt line or 5 volt line depending on what that strip requires.

When I made the kits I used to sell I used two light strips. One was a 6V strip that tied into the GI so that it was always lit and the other was a 12V strip that tied into the flasher so it only came on when that flasher went off.

Unless you are handy with electrical stuff just buy a power adapter and move alone. Only problem with that though is that (if memory serves me correctly) that plug in the cabinet is always on as long as the game is plugged in. Thus you will have to turn that mod on and off along with the game. Kind of a dumb design if you ask me but that is just personal preference.

#1384 4 months ago
Quoted from alveolus:

If you are using the service outlet to work on the game you usually wan the game to be off.
It is easy enough to convert the power supply to a molex connector of you know how to crimp wires.

Yes, but I was reference that the mod uses the service outlet as a dumb design, not that the service port works when the game is off.

I agree that adding a molex is easy to do but most people buying these plug and play mods aren't comfortable with electrical work. From a company like Coin Taker, I'm pretty disappointed they took the lazy way out and didn't make it connect to a molex adapter like 99% of the other mods of this nature have.

1 week later
#1391 4 months ago

Agreed on option to have songs continue.

For the SDTM - A lot of us put a larger diameter post at the end of that lane. Used to be common when it first came out but not sure anymore.

4 weeks later
#1417 3 months ago
Quoted from heyitsjoebob:

My father-in-law bought a NIB Vault edition recently and he's *really* struggling with this thing, skill wise. He averages 5-8 million points and 3-4 cusswords per game. Generally his drains come from a left ramp rollback down the center, Bell rebound down the center, TNT rebound down the center, or right bumper popping to the left outlane.
What can we do to make it easier (more fun for him) to play without just extending ball save time and making it a 5 ball game?
I was able to decrease the size of the left outlane, but the right one is covered by the cannon and I was nervous about messing with all of that. I'm a novice myself. Any other suggestions?

Is he having fun still? If yes leave it as is and dont worry.

If no, (here is where I'll get flack), put a rubber on the right outlanes to close it off. Leave the left on lower setting. He's still going to lose his ball like this but it will at least help him out without making it to easy. If he's not competing then it's about finding fun in the game and ac/dc can be brutal. The above mod still teaches him nudging where he can see the ball but help with the side he can't.

#1429 3 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Picking up a premium vault next weekend. Anything I should check when setting it up, or common tweaks needed right out of the box?
Can’t wait!!

With the vault - check the leveling of the mini playfield insert

All versions of ac/dc - the height and alignment of the canon. Also make sure the ball in the bell is tight. Some have come shipped loose.

Outside of those items, the normal NIB stuff.

#1442 88 days ago

Yes, it works during all multiballs. Test in coil test. I'm guessing, as well, that connector came lose.

3 weeks later
#1518 61 days ago

Don't change colors if you have a prem/LE, just swap to frosted. AC/DC's GI is colored via the code in the game so if you change colors you will change some of the effects.

#1520 61 days ago

That's a bummer mainly because of it's location. Takes a fair bit to get to that rubber as the ramp needs to come off.

I've bought new ones that snapped at install as they were accidentally cut at some point. Guessing that is what happened.

#1535 60 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

What’s everyone’s best song total? I can’t seem to get past 6 even if I’m trying to complete them as efficiently as possible. Encore still a long way off for me I’m afraid.

encore baby! Knowing how much you enjoy GOT and Iron Throne, I can't wait to see what you think about Encore. I wont spoil anything for you but I think you will get addicted to it

For me I have to make the decision before I start. Score or Encore. If going for encore I will complete the easy songs outside of MB but for all the target based songs and the cannon song I don't even think of attempting unless I'm in MB. Get good at backhanding the left ramp on the fly and it will come sooner rather than later for you knowing your skill level.

#1539 60 days ago
Quoted from dr_spidey:

What do people think is the best video tutorial?
I finally got mine tweaked just right, and now I need to learn all the rules.

Just wait for Chuck to figure it out and watch what he will inevitably make

#1540 60 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I’ll need to become more clear on how many shots are needed to complete a mode. Seems like some need less than others.
Is it only based on the music notes you make once you light them?
So single ball modes would be:
Hell ain’t a bad place to be
Hells bells
War machine
Rock and roll train
Rest use MB to complete? So you’d have to have 7-8 MBs to complete the rest. That doesn’t seem too daunting. Just tough to put that all together on a 3-4 ball game. I’ll get it. Definitely the hardest wizard mode to get to of any game I’ve owned.

Couple of things - for encore.

Prime, prime, prime your MB's and never start 2 at one time. You see all drops down but one, take the shot to get album closer. Shoot some loops to get tour ready, etc. When going for encore, I focus this on ball one as if I drain fast then I just switch from an encore attempt to a score game Now when you need to start a risky song then you can shoot that last shot to get your MB ready and be safe. I try to do as many modes as possible in MB for obvious reasons.

Modes are all the same. You are just making the shot to light that specific song.
- Rosie is always the top 3 inlanes
- Shook me is always pops
- TNT is always the 3 targets
- Etc

The songs/modes don't change on what you need to collect to change your song but I prefer the songs that will require the drops or cannon in MB but you can still avoid them as you just need to collect 8 other songs to light the jukebox. You could very realistically just only ever shoot
- left ramp
- right ramp
- left orbit
- right orbit (shooting orbits will naturally get you Rosie and Shook)
- bell

With this you only need one "riskier"shot to light the jukebox. I generally go for TNT.

Hope this helps. I know Bowen has a rules write-up somewhere that may help but I just don't know where it's linked anymore.

#1556 54 days ago
Quoted from bsobie:

I’m needing to replace my flipper rubbers... where is a good place to buy them?... Is One brand better than the other? Thank You for the advice.

Pinball life

I'm not a fan of titan or super bands on the flippers. They change the way the ball feels and behaves on them. If that will bother you get standard rubber. If that doesn't bother you, you have a need for them to lost longer (on route) or want to use different colors they are a good choice. They do play different though.

#1562 53 days ago
Quoted from bpull:

Hi guys, I tried searching through this thread for my answer but gave up, so I'll just ask it. Do any of you seem to break the rubbers behind the TNT targets a lot? I've replaced these things 3 times, which is 3 times more then any of the other rubbers. Any better solutions to this problem, like post sleeves?
Thanks in advance!
[quoted image]

I've gone through a ton of them there as well. I finally came up with a solution that has helped. The right post I replaced the rubbers their with 7/16OD rubbers (same as what your inlines have) as well as the first post on the left. The far post rubber connect to another post to create a lane guide so I didn't do that with those two and just used a smaller rubber to connect them. I don't recall the size. I'd take a picture but my game is on loan with a friend but hopefully that helps if you want to try something different.

#1563 53 days ago
Quoted from bsobie:

What are standard rubbers?.... is that what Stern uses on their machines? The ones I’m needing to replace are on my AC/DC. For some reason the flipper rubbers are taking a beating and already have bad spots on both flippers. We bought our Metallica Pro 2 years before AC/DC and those flipper rubbers aren’t showing any wear at all. Is there different rubbers they use for Pro and Premium?

Super bands are a made of a different material and are not what come on the machines. The rubbers are the same for both prem and pro games. Not sure what you mean by bad spots but if you are talking about then coming apart it could just be a bad set or other factors (speed of the game is one example). Factory replacement is rubber. Titan's and Superbands are different material but they do generally last longer. If you don't want standard I'd suggest Titans first as they play more closely to standard rubber. Flipper rubber comes down to personal preference. I personally have no issues with replacing mine more often and using the normal stuff. It's cheap and easy.

#1576 52 days ago
Quoted from bsobie:

I posted some pics as to what mine look like..... Where would you buy the regular rubbers?


Those aren't to bad at all. Do as suggested above and order some new ones for when you need them.

And only because everyone loves Amazon.... Quite a bit more but the same stuff. Pinball Lifes shipping is expensive for small things like this but take this time to buy some other replacement parts. Always good to have some spare parts so you aren't down if something breaks. Sleeves, assortment of rubbers and a couple coil stops are my minimum parts bend requirements. Just keep them in the coin box if you don't already have a box for stuff like that.
amazon.com link »

#1602 49 days ago

I actually do think you can get a 6 song jackpot but it's extremely tough to pull off. I would have to test it but my game is with a friend for at least another month so can't. But, here is how I "think" you could achieve it.

For Album and Tour MB, once you collect the jackpot that is associated with the tour of the song you are playing in it scores you the song jackpot (without erasing it and making you start over like collecting on the bell). I'm thinking that if you have 3X going and you get the doubler lane and the very net switch you register is the shot that collects that specific jackpot it "may" be doubled.

Example: You have "T" and "T" down already in Album MB. The next Jackpot will match your song and tour and score you the song jackpot award. You are craddled on the right flipper and the other ball goes through the left inlane when flashing and you immediately shot the "N" target. It would score your jackpot and double that. Question would be if it also doubled the bonus award for matching your tour & song and thus the song Jackpot.

Wish I could test this but theoretically it would meet the requirements (next major switch hit). The reason the regular song jackpot doesn't work is it scores the right ramp as a major shot before the ball gets to the cannon.

#1604 49 days ago

It's the same but different. The song bonus' value for collecting the jackpot associated with the tour of your song is the same as your song jackpot. Unlike the song jackpot from the bell, though, it doesn't reset once collected. So a good strategy is to collect the song bonus before the song jackpot if it's starting to get big.

I always call the song bonus the song jackpot thus where some of the confusion may be. I'm thinking the song bonus could be 6X which could get HUGE if possible.

#1614 48 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

6x song bonus collect explained.
Remember, at least in trying to do this with tnt, you cannot use a VIP pass to spot the shot you need. It will spot another shot unfortunately. You need to physically hit the target after the inlane.

Sweet that it worked. Thanks for testing it. Now, I want to see you do it with the glass on

That would be a cool side tournament. Biggest song bonus collected. I guess it would require an official to watch the game though the whole time so maybe not but would be a cool challenge, if nothing else, with your friends at home.

#1616 47 days ago

You may want to try it with For those about to rock. With that song it's easy to keep your multipliers going since every shot to the right ramp goes into the cannon. It also extends your playfield X time as well since the timer pauses when a ball is in the scoop or cannon. For those about to Rock is the 7th's jackpot for the Song Bonus. Doable in one MB but priming it would make it easier.

For the inlane 2x shot. You'll want to make sure it's on the inserts (thunderstuck targets move what super mode you get) before you collect the last shot to start the super mode.

Some crazy work to get it set-up. Just another reason why the code of this game is so interesting.

Wish I had my game to try some of this

#1624 46 days ago

Another bonus of TNT. After you drop the 3 targets the center target lights as a hurry up, starting at 750k. If you lock that score in then all your shots will be 750K, plus residuals (other jackpots if playing tour or jam). The 750 is much greater than the early values of jackpots as well. Because of this, if I have at least 2X going on and get to a MB and I'm playing TNT I will use a VIP pass to lock in the hurry-up value at max.

#1628 44 days ago

Agree with Chuck. I saw a mod someone did to a Star Trek they were routing to where they took a cliffy post rubber and cut them in half and put it under the rubber. That seemed to work really well for them. I may try that as well next time I replace them. I can say though that that set-up has lasted a lot longer than the other, at least for me.

2 weeks later
#1645 29 days ago
Quoted from Hawks:

Just opened my ACDC Luci vault and I’m getting a tonne of airballs off the TNT drop targets
Also the plastic cover for the mini playfield sits about a couple of millimeters lower than the main playfield and is covered in fine tiny scratches
Are these things normal?
It’s had less than 20 plays
Finally, just trying to grasp the rule set as the general consensus is that this game is amazing
So far I seem to be getting just a bunch of MB’s and really not too sure what the games primary objective is
Would love it if someone could give me a basic overview of how to properly play ACDC
With thanks

Air balls off TNT targets is pretty normal. Air balls off any direct target that is straight in front of you is normal.

Insert - scratches are normal and should buff out with novus. The leveling isn't "normal" but is common. you should be able to adjust the height by how tight the screws are installed. So, it should be adjustable. This was one of the "benefits" of the removable inserts. Prior it was flush mounted and cleared over.

AC/DC really isn't a mode game. It's objective is to build song jackpots and score big points. You can try for Encore but that is a bit of a journey (play all the songs).

2 weeks later
#1677 10 days ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

The slings on my ACDC Premium have always seemed overpowered and I also wish there was an adjustment. The flippers on my GoT pro were way overpowered too.
I will ask if we can get a sling power adjustment setting.

If you haven't done it set the coil power to low in the settings. This doesn't do anything for flippers strength but it does decrease the pulse of power for the slings.

#1686 9 days ago
Quoted from Dent00:

I will try that... I just put the bubble in the middle of the level guage...

How tight is that rubber behind the targets? It may be worth replacing as I've never had this happen once on my machine.

#1696 4 days ago

That's crazy. I wonder if the rail is a bit to low in the PF and that was the cause then.

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