I saw a guy made a cross-over ramp in plexi. Looked pretty cool as it blended in more and also picked up some of the colors from the game..

I may have to give this a try and disable that solenoid and see how it feels. Never thought about it before but after you mentioned it my interest sparked. This is one thing I do like the Pro over the Prem/LE on is it's a lot easier to control when the ball goes to the cannon without removing both ramps.

That would be cool. Maybe take a page out of the Avengers playbook and make that gate controllable with the flippers. That would be the ultimate. Shoot the left ramp and you pick left or right exit why holding a flipper. No flipper choice made it diverts the ball based off current logic.

Best option out there IMHO. He may have some left over but you better hurry.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/acdc-new-original-translite-meet-helen

Does this mean you are going to be able to sell these again? I always thought it was lame you were told to stop since it was original art.

I am using one of the pro overlays on my mini Pf and it looks great but I would be super excited to see you come up with something for the mini PF that tied thing in better.

Sounds like you got the bonus doubler. You can get a separate multiplier by draining out an outlane when that lane is flashing. If you go down an inlane while the lane is flashing it doubles just your next shot where if you get it on an outlane it doubles the bonus. You can get multiples of this in one ball (collecting during MB) which can really blow up a bonus.

My understanding is that the drummer (don't recall his name as I don't follow the band) will be removed from the art and the moving band will have a stagnate drummer vs the active one on the current prem. Someone posted up a pic of the Pinball Arcade Version and the general consensus was that would be what it would look like.

Stern sells them now, again. They've gone up on price to $100 from what I think was $60 before they stopped selling them last time. Not surprised, it is Stern after all...

http://costore.com/sternpinball/productenlarged.asp?ProductId=6559031

I tied into the ramp flashers. Makes for a really cool effect when the cannon is ready to be fired.

It's just a 12 volt flasher pad alligator clipped to the coil for the plunger. Get the pad from comet and save a good chunk of money. If you want pre-made contact pinball refinery as they (at lease used to) make and sell it.

The target splints resolve this problem. This game and Tron is where my initial idea came from when I pitched it to Mezel Mods. My only regret is that i wish the price would have stayed where it initially was but they do solve the leaning target problems.

Is it possible it's getting caught on the rubbers from the lower part of the inlane? The inlanes are different top and bottom (one side is more oval shaped). When i shopped my game I got one backwards and it caused a ball hang up. If memory servers me correctly the oval side should be towards the bottom. Check that first.

Next, what is the pitch of the game? If it's not at min 6.5 I would increase to that pitch. The bubble level can be off so measure with a digital level. They are pretty cheap at hardware stores if you don't have one and are very handy to have.

If the top two don't solve this and you are 100% sure the ball is past the metal switch already then I'm fairly stumped. You would see an obvious flaw in the game for it to hold up a ball like.

Assuming you are talking about songs to light jukebox and not all the songs on the jukebox (since there are 12). If so, yes, you change to a new song and recollect them again to light the juke box. Do this for all 12 songs and you get to the wizard mode called encore.

I wouldn't worry about the song objectives. For the most part the only difference between songs is how their scoring is done. Some songs are more valuable due to the risk of the shots vs others. You have some minor objective differences like the use of mini PF, the canon mode and TNT for instance but the main objectives stay the same (collect 8 songs to lite jukebox).

P.S. - If you want to progress further in the game and are struggling with ball times you can adjust the number of songs needed in order to light the juke box. Some will frown on reducing that setting but it your game so make it fun for you. Especially while you are learning the rules.

The settings are counter intuitive. For music make the number less (will increase it's volume) and for call outs make the number higher (will reduce it's volume). Not positive but I believe those are towards the end of the game adjustment menu.

Been a long time since I've looked at that target so if my memory is wrong please forgive me. If my memory is correct that target is under the plastics that make up the TNT box. It's not hard to remove that box but does take a bit of time. I think you need to remove the cross over to get it off.

2 piece for the square faced targets. 1 piece for the rectangle (smaller) targets, like the ones in front of the ramps.

1 piece will work but it requires you to soldier the connections. The 2 piece was designed for those that aren't comfortable soldiering.

Credits you for a shot. Normally, the most lucrative shot but that's not 100%.

Best to save them for multiball. Collect 4 of the 5 shots needed for your add a ball. Then avoid that shot. When your 2nd ball drains hit the VIP to collect the last add a ball shot to basically extend MB.

Button on the Lock bar.

You get them from skill shots and in longer balls combos.

It's just a simple V plastic. Installing would be a bitch though since the stock ramp is riveted in.

I could do the pinball mod thing and buy this, cut it and sell it for $100 a piece.... But seriously, if you wanted to do this to your game, this would work just fine and would be clear as well.

http://www.wallguard.com/corner-guards/clear-corner-guards/2335-series.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI89Kr8oDd2QIVV57ACh0tggXtEAYYAiABEgKJO_D_BwE

2335-3-4-wing (resized).png

So true! I personally like my ramp with the train sticker. The plain metal was a bit of an eye sore but with this mod it seemed to pit in better.

Good to know. I always though it was riveted in as the top shows rivets. Looks like that holds a bracket with the screws under more review. Makes this an even easier mod to try for those that want to. Shoot, if you use the wall guards that entrance piece would be even less likely to be needed since those guards are a bit taller. Would take just trimming the end of the guard a bit to have it fit.

Can you post a pic of exactly where this is? If it's where I'm thinking it is, changing that 7/16 OD rubber with a 3/D rubber will fix the problem. Friend of mine (luci as well) had a tight clearance their and that rubber was actually holding the ball in the lane on slow moving balls.

If it's hanging up with just clearcoat their then a cliffy wont fix that.

I've got a question for everyone though. Anyone elses bell swing too much? I've noticed recently that after a solid bell hit my bell will keep swinging for more than 20 seconds. I know this timeline is correct because I constantly lose my 2x scoring because the bell doesn't stop swinging in enough time to keep building it or restart the timer. Really frustrating now. I don't think there was a code change their but it would be nice if after a couple seconds the magnet would stop the bell.

I went with white and have been really happy with them. Yes, they are very bright!

I wouldn't say it's common but does happen occasionally. I can usually get mine to come loose with a light nude during the ball search.

Their should be a long single brown wire in the bottom of the cab (around the transformer). It's going to be hidden in that mess of wires down there. it's the only single brown wire in the lower part of the cab so you will know you have the right one. I think it should be an IDC connector though.

Found a video of someone installing their shaker in a MET. Will be the same for AC/DC.

Don't feel to bad. I spent 30 mins trouble shooting a shaker install on a game I bought used. Fix was simple, just had to turn it on in the settings. Previous owner turned it off since it didn't have one and it took me 30 mins to even check that.

Does it spin fine but not register or is it not spinning well at all?

If spinning well but not registering hits as it should:
I think the reason for this is because the switch isn't very sensitive. Looking at your top pic I can see clear daylight between the switch and the spinner arm. They should be resting on each other ever so slightly. That arm doesn't move very much distance so it needs to be making a solid connection when the spinner is upside-down. As yours sits now on a good hit to the spinner I'm betting it's just not registering well.

If it's not spinning well then that screw could be the issue but in the pic it looks like their is plenty of clearance in the spinner itself even while resting on the screw. I can see where it can move up in the mount so it doesn't look like their is any binding there.

Shoot, I had that location confused with another location. That orientation looks correct. By the looks of it their is clearance for the ball as well so it shouldn't be holding up their. Is the game at 6.5 degrees pitch or more? If not, I would adjust to at min 6.5 (Stern's recommended pitch) and see if it still continues. If so you could switch to one size smaller rubber their (the long one) for which the extra stretch will give more clearance. Last option would be some mylar around the switch. I don't think a cliffy will work as if the ball is already moving slow enough to be caught like this I feel it would get caught on the upper side of the switch cliffy.

Must be a placeholder for something in other games with the metal backbox.

Here is my original and nothing is there:

ac-dc (resized).jpg

Yeah, do tell more. My supers are always in the low 20 million range. Supers are supposed to be the sum of the jackpots collected so are you saying they are effected by PF multipliers as part of that initial calculation? I.E. You collect all your base jackpots at 2x PF so your super base is now 44(ish) million?

It will only help if the under side is scratched up. If it's cloudy that is on the top from the clear. Big thing to note though when looking at used games. Is the window cloudy or just dirty. Some owners are afraid to take the lower PF off and don't clean there. It's super easy to do and takes all of 5 mins but it can look intimidating. I take mine off every couple hundred of plays. By that time it does have a light coating of pinball dust already there.

When buying used you should be OK with a prem as very few had a cloudy window but some did so just check it out first. It will be obvious.

For mods:
- External sub
- Bass drum covers for the diverter coils
- Pinbits Lightening bolt flashers (their are flashers behind the stock plastics but they aren't great)
- Red apron with the interactive lights that integrate with the canon flasher. Makes a cool strobe effect when the cannon is ready.
- Shaker (some don't like them but I enjoy it on this pin)
- Roof top mod (if you can still find one) as they cover that ugly hole in the back right corner as well as add lighting for the band members
- mantis protectors for the scoops

To make sure I'm being clear. Their are some premiums with them but they are few and far between. You can't polish out the cloudiness but if you get minor scratches you can polish them out carefully. It's acrylic so all those rules apply.

Thought they were manits protectors. Must be someone else making the same style then. Here is what I got years ago. I just have the two scoops and not the other two. Looks like he sells as a full kit now. I've got thousands of plays on my game with them and no wear at all.

ebay.com link: Stern Pinball ACDC Total Protection Kit

No, they mount from the underneath. I don't recall if they fit in existing holes or you make new ones with self tapping wood screws. I believe you make your own.

If memory serves me correctly you got one of my versions (red ones).

With the matrix system it's stupid easy now. Their are two GI bulbs behind the band. Just get a matrix kit with the color lights you want, plug it in their and use the double sided tape on the roof mod. To integrate into the flasher you can create a harness to piggy back off that plug. Just need a male and female .093 molex connectors and plugs as well as about 3 feet of wire. Soldier one end to a 12V LED strip of your choice and the other end make a bridge to go in between the factory plug. Or you can use a 12V matrix plug, get a splitter and two LED light strips. One goes in the back and the other in the front so both sides still flash.

Not hard but can be time consuming but with the advent of the comet matrix system it's way easier now.

You just need two 12v 6 SMD pads. One goes on each side of the apron underneith it. Then you just wire them into the harness for the cannon flasher. Can't recall if it's a z connector or molex.

Do yourself a favor and get one more pad (in yellow) and put it in the cannon. You'll thank me later

Either will work. I have the top ones.

Here is a pic of all lights and wiring.

The red and black is the cannon and the added IDC is the apron lights. Now that they have them a frosted 12v strip may be better in the cannon. I may try that.

20180630_093055 (resized).jpg

20180630_093115 (resized).jpg

20180630_093119 (resized).jpg

20180630_093228 (resized).jpg

Should be tied into the flasher by the canon. That way the canon and aprons flash/pulse when the canon is ready to be shot.

Have you reseated the connectors for the speakers on the board? My MET does this periodically. That in line filter has just enough weight to it to where over time it will pull the connector ever so slightly loose. When that happens it's like putting soft mute on it.

It's a standard ball.

depends on which version you have on how to change it out.

Original - Remove the 4 screws that hold the mini PF on as well as the handful of wire connectors for the lights and switches. Pull the PF off, replace ball and clean the mini PF. Should take you 10 mins tops for the first time to do this. It looks intimidating but is really easy.

VE - remove the plexi window and service from the top. Change the ball and clean the PF.

I think just about every AC/DC I've played I've hit the side of the cabinet when the ball is coming down that right orbit to keep it off the sling. I'm not sure what SR had in his mind when designing it but if you want to get the ball to go to the flipper instead of the sling it will require you to move the very end of that lower orbit over to the left just a tad. I'm not sure how much (if any) room for adjustment their is in that hole though.

Really just some trial and error but you only have two real options:
- move the end of that right orbit lane out towards the center of the PF more
- add something (maybe a real thin felt strip) on that rail at the end to help bump the ball to the left some

Keep in mind, anything you do here will make shooting the right orbit more difficult.

It's registered via an opto in the bracket that holds the bell. It must stop swinging before the next shot will register. Some games swing longer than others. Your, like mine, swings a lot so I have to avoid the shot until it does stop swinging. I'm sure you could make it swing less by roughing up the pivot point or adding a weak spring but it's not something I ever worried about so never attempted anything.

It's their to actually swing the bell. It was coded into the VIP pass but was recently removed and only does that after the 3rd devil horn award. That's why people used to do hells bells all day on prem/le games as a VIP pass would extend the 2x or 3x PF multipliers.

After shooting the lit devil horns around the PF the juke box will light to collect an award (same place you change a song). Their are several different awards that were recently added, one of which doesn't work still (OI mode). And apparently I was wrong. The swinging Bell is the 4th award, not the 3rd.

- Changed the rule for the DEVIL HORNS. Instead of lighting all 3 shots
at once, they are lit in order: BELL, RIGHT LOOP, LEFT LOOP. Once the
LEFT LOOP shot is made to complete the sequence, the Tunes N Stuff lamp
is lit to collect "STUFF".
- Added STUFF to Tunes N Stuff:
- 2X DEVIL HORNS (multiplies the lit DEVIL HORN shots by 2).
- HOLD BONUS
- 7,500,000 POINTS
- AWARD BELL SHOT WITH V.I.P. PASS
Using the VIP PASS button also awards all features available
at the BELL (which includes advancing the PLAYFIELD MULTIPLIER).
(The Premium/LE will swing the bell using the BELL MAGNET.)
- OI MANIA (7,500 PER SWITCH. OI!)
- 10,000,000 POINTS
- EXTRA BALL

Yours is probably fine. A canon shot to the left orbit normally only makes it about halfway up and comes back down. Left ramp even less. The left orbit is the most safe shot I've found from the canon but I still only go for the bell or drops 99% of the time.

Replaced with pinbits bolts

I'm really surprised hot glue didn't work.

Never came on the prem. Best way to help with sdtm on prem out of pops is a bigger rubber at the end of that lane. When ac/DC first came out a lot of us put a post rubber there. Just have to replace the post but is easy to do.

Happened to mine years ago. I wound up using glue on mine. It held for about 6 months and broke again. I glued it again and put mylar over it and it last about 12 months. I've put his leg in the coindoor for now

I'm letting a friend play my game right now so it's at his house so I can't grab a picture of the broken leg. But it breaks at his knee, where I've pointed out in green below. If I ever replace it, I'm going to re-inforce that spot. Problem is that even mylar on the back can cause interference and make it stick.
AC (resized).png

The plastic is really thin at that point as it is where his knee is and is also the pivot point for the movement. The force of going back and forth just does it in over time.

I tried several things with no luck due to it being to thick as that part goes behind his stag-net leg and the back plastic. If you go too thick his leg gets stuck in the air and doesn't come back to it's resting position.

Only thing I didn't try would be to put some sort of metal bracket on the side. It would have to be really thin and then mounting it would be a challenge.

In a perfect world, a REALLY thin piece of metal that you double sided taped to the back of his leg would be the best option. Not sure if metal that thin is possible though but it would probably need to be about half the thickness of a cliffy.

Probably the best option would be to have someone make replacement legs in PETG and just apply a decal to it as a replacement. Stern wont make just that plastic so you have to buy the full kit for it thus why those that have a broken leg generally just deal with it. If I had a laser cutter I'd consider making that piece but I don't and making it by hand would be hard, if not impossible.

$15 is more than it's probably worth but while saying that I probably would buy one. It's better than buying a whole plastic kit for just that one part and I'm OCD so it drives me nuts.

So, yup, I'd be in.

Please don't.

I 100% recommend the pinbit bolts and the hooked bolts (if you can find a set that will last). The Orion's belt falls into the category of, "Someone asked if they could do something before they asked if they should do it.". To me that system is WAY overkill but I know some people will like it. Just my opinion.

Do you already have the clear red apron with the pinball refinery kit that adds flashers under their and behind the ramp diverters? Those actually integrate very well into the game play as they let you know when the canon is active for something.

I honestly don't recall which version I had. I went through 3 sets before throwing in the towel. The LED's were going out in rows. He was great to work with and was replacing them with no hassle at all but at that point I changed to the pinbits ones. I do prefer the look of the hooked ones if he's gotten the reliability figured out. It's been several years so I'm sure I was on a pretty early version.

Yeah, you need the power adapter that goes to it. They are cheap on ebay. Just search for an LED light strip power adapter. Other than that you would just have to cut off the current connector and soldier in a new power and ground wire and connect it to either a 12volt line or 5 volt line depending on what that strip requires.

When I made the kits I used to sell I used two light strips. One was a 6V strip that tied into the GI so that it was always lit and the other was a 12V strip that tied into the flasher so it only came on when that flasher went off.

Unless you are handy with electrical stuff just buy a power adapter and move alone. Only problem with that though is that (if memory serves me correctly) that plug in the cabinet is always on as long as the game is plugged in. Thus you will have to turn that mod on and off along with the game. Kind of a dumb design if you ask me but that is just personal preference.

Yes, but I was reference that the mod uses the service outlet as a dumb design, not that the service port works when the game is off.

I agree that adding a molex is easy to do but most people buying these plug and play mods aren't comfortable with electrical work. From a company like Coin Taker, I'm pretty disappointed they took the lazy way out and didn't make it connect to a molex adapter like 99% of the other mods of this nature have.

Agreed on option to have songs continue.

For the SDTM - A lot of us put a larger diameter post at the end of that lane. Used to be common when it first came out but not sure anymore.

Is he having fun still? If yes leave it as is and dont worry.

If no, (here is where I'll get flack), put a rubber on the right outlanes to close it off. Leave the left on lower setting. He's still going to lose his ball like this but it will at least help him out without making it to easy. If he's not competing then it's about finding fun in the game and ac/dc can be brutal. The above mod still teaches him nudging where he can see the ball but help with the side he can't.

With the vault - check the leveling of the mini playfield insert

All versions of ac/dc - the height and alignment of the canon. Also make sure the ball in the bell is tight. Some have come shipped loose.

Outside of those items, the normal NIB stuff.

Yes, it works during all multiballs. Test in coil test. I'm guessing, as well, that connector came lose.

Don't change colors if you have a prem/LE, just swap to frosted. AC/DC's GI is colored via the code in the game so if you change colors you will change some of the effects.

That's a bummer mainly because of it's location. Takes a fair bit to get to that rubber as the ramp needs to come off.

I've bought new ones that snapped at install as they were accidentally cut at some point. Guessing that is what happened.

encore baby! Knowing how much you enjoy GOT and Iron Throne, I can't wait to see what you think about Encore. I wont spoil anything for you but I think you will get addicted to it

For me I have to make the decision before I start. Score or Encore. If going for encore I will complete the easy songs outside of MB but for all the target based songs and the cannon song I don't even think of attempting unless I'm in MB. Get good at backhanding the left ramp on the fly and it will come sooner rather than later for you knowing your skill level.

Just wait for Chuck to figure it out and watch what he will inevitably make

Couple of things - for encore.

Prime, prime, prime your MB's and never start 2 at one time. You see all drops down but one, take the shot to get album closer. Shoot some loops to get tour ready, etc. When going for encore, I focus this on ball one as if I drain fast then I just switch from an encore attempt to a score game Now when you need to start a risky song then you can shoot that last shot to get your MB ready and be safe. I try to do as many modes as possible in MB for obvious reasons.

Modes are all the same. You are just making the shot to light that specific song.
- Rosie is always the top 3 inlanes
- Shook me is always pops
- TNT is always the 3 targets
- Etc

The songs/modes don't change on what you need to collect to change your song but I prefer the songs that will require the drops or cannon in MB but you can still avoid them as you just need to collect 8 other songs to light the jukebox. You could very realistically just only ever shoot
- left ramp
- right ramp
- left orbit
- right orbit (shooting orbits will naturally get you Rosie and Shook)
- bell

With this you only need one "riskier"shot to light the jukebox. I generally go for TNT.

Hope this helps. I know Bowen has a rules write-up somewhere that may help but I just don't know where it's linked anymore.
-

Pinball life

I'm not a fan of titan or super bands on the flippers. They change the way the ball feels and behaves on them. If that will bother you get standard rubber. If that doesn't bother you, you have a need for them to lost longer (on route) or want to use different colors they are a good choice. They do play different though.

I've gone through a ton of them there as well. I finally came up with a solution that has helped. The right post I replaced the rubbers their with 7/16OD rubbers (same as what your inlines have) as well as the first post on the left. The far post rubber connect to another post to create a lane guide so I didn't do that with those two and just used a smaller rubber to connect them. I don't recall the size. I'd take a picture but my game is on loan with a friend but hopefully that helps if you want to try something different.

Super bands are a made of a different material and are not what come on the machines. The rubbers are the same for both prem and pro games. Not sure what you mean by bad spots but if you are talking about then coming apart it could just be a bad set or other factors (speed of the game is one example). Factory replacement is rubber. Titan's and Superbands are different material but they do generally last longer. If you don't want standard I'd suggest Titans first as they play more closely to standard rubber. Flipper rubber comes down to personal preference. I personally have no issues with replacing mine more often and using the normal stuff. It's cheap and easy.

https://www.pinballlife.com/red-flipper-rubber.html

Those aren't to bad at all. Do as suggested above and order some new ones for when you need them.

And only because everyone loves Amazon.... Quite a bit more but the same stuff. Pinball Lifes shipping is expensive for small things like this but take this time to buy some other replacement parts. Always good to have some spare parts so you aren't down if something breaks. Sleeves, assortment of rubbers and a couple coil stops are my minimum parts bend requirements. Just keep them in the coin box if you don't already have a box for stuff like that.
https://www.amazon.com/Game-Room-Guys-Pinball-Flipper/dp/B00D37GXX0/ref=sr_1_1

I actually do think you can get a 6 song jackpot but it's extremely tough to pull off. I would have to test it but my game is with a friend for at least another month so can't. But, here is how I "think" you could achieve it.

For Album and Tour MB, once you collect the jackpot that is associated with the tour of the song you are playing in it scores you the song jackpot (without erasing it and making you start over like collecting on the bell). I'm thinking that if you have 3X going and you get the doubler lane and the very net switch you register is the shot that collects that specific jackpot it "may" be doubled.

Example: You have "T" and "T" down already in Album MB. The next Jackpot will match your song and tour and score you the song jackpot award. You are craddled on the right flipper and the other ball goes through the left inlane when flashing and you immediately shot the "N" target. It would score your jackpot and double that. Question would be if it also doubled the bonus award for matching your tour & song and thus the song Jackpot.

Wish I could test this but theoretically it would meet the requirements (next major switch hit). The reason the regular song jackpot doesn't work is it scores the right ramp as a major shot before the ball gets to the cannon.

It's the same but different. The song bonus' value for collecting the jackpot associated with the tour of your song is the same as your song jackpot. Unlike the song jackpot from the bell, though, it doesn't reset once collected. So a good strategy is to collect the song bonus before the song jackpot if it's starting to get big.

I always call the song bonus the song jackpot thus where some of the confusion may be. I'm thinking the song bonus could be 6X which could get HUGE if possible.

Sweet that it worked. Thanks for testing it. Now, I want to see you do it with the glass on

That would be a cool side tournament. Biggest song bonus collected. I guess it would require an official to watch the game though the whole time so maybe not but would be a cool challenge, if nothing else, with your friends at home.

You may want to try it with For those about to rock. With that song it's easy to keep your multipliers going since every shot to the right ramp goes into the cannon. It also extends your playfield X time as well since the timer pauses when a ball is in the scoop or cannon. For those about to Rock is the 7th's jackpot for the Song Bonus. Doable in one MB but priming it would make it easier.

For the inlane 2x shot. You'll want to make sure it's on the inserts (thunderstuck targets move what super mode you get) before you collect the last shot to start the super mode.

Some crazy work to get it set-up. Just another reason why the code of this game is so interesting.

Wish I had my game to try some of this

Another bonus of TNT. After you drop the 3 targets the center target lights as a hurry up, starting at 750k. If you lock that score in then all your shots will be 750K, plus residuals (other jackpots if playing tour or jam). The 750 is much greater than the early values of jackpots as well. Because of this, if I have at least 2X going on and get to a MB and I'm playing TNT I will use a VIP pass to lock in the hurry-up value at max.

Agree with Chuck. I saw a mod someone did to a Star Trek they were routing to where they took a cliffy post rubber and cut them in half and put it under the rubber. That seemed to work really well for them. I may try that as well next time I replace them. I can say though that that set-up has lasted a lot longer than the other, at least for me.

Air balls off TNT targets is pretty normal. Air balls off any direct target that is straight in front of you is normal.

Insert - scratches are normal and should buff out with novus. The leveling isn't "normal" but is common. you should be able to adjust the height by how tight the screws are installed. So, it should be adjustable. This was one of the "benefits" of the removable inserts. Prior it was flush mounted and cleared over.

AC/DC really isn't a mode game. It's objective is to build song jackpots and score big points. You can try for Encore but that is a bit of a journey (play all the songs).

If you haven't done it set the coil power to low in the settings. This doesn't do anything for flippers strength but it does decrease the pulse of power for the slings.

How tight is that rubber behind the targets? It may be worth replacing as I've never had this happen once on my machine.

That's crazy. I wonder if the rail is a bit to low in the PF and that was the cause then.

By any chance have you removed that lane guide? I ask because the top and bottom are different. I always get it mixed up but I believe the top is the more oval shape and the bottom is the round shape. the same size rubber goes on both ends but one is slightly larger. If you put it back on upside down it could change that gap there and allow the ball to sit in that spot. It's worth a look at least.

Non-issue. The top one is guarded by the ramp and the lower one would only be vulnerable to a side hit which I've never seen in the 5 or so years I've owned this game.

Saw this and got excited. Went to website and checked it out. $45 for a damn plastic! Nobody (well almost nobody) needs the whole assembly. We just need the dang plastic.

So... I'll live with my broken leg Angus I guess

Correct. New playfield or complete clear strip and reclear.

Wait, what? You want the song jackpots to continue after a drain? That would kill the absolute best feature of AC/DC and that is the risk vs reward strategy. You let the song jackpot carry over from ball to ball it takes all the stress out of trying to get your fire lines completed to cash out on that song jackpot with 2 or 3x going before you drain if you just had a great ball going.

Let me preface something here especially since you say tournament play. Before you pick Rosie or You Shook Me, you better watch that feed out of the pops. If that feed is anything other than friendly I would strongly encourage you to actually avoid any song that diverts the ball to the pops. There is an AC/DC that I play in league and the feed from the pops is 50/50 SDTM. When I see players pick one of those modes I know I've pretty much beaten them already.

It should allow you to change the color and effects. Those are dirt cheap imports from China. Same type of ones I used for my Tron mods that I was making. I had to triple check they worked before installing them before I soldered them on.

At this point, if they wont take care of it for you, may be easier to just get a comparable light strip and make your own. Not what you should have to due but you can get strips for about $20 these days now.

Backglass - Doubtful.

If you can get a real good picture of one you may have better luck getting one printed and essentially make your own translight.

Get real good at backhanding the left ramp Once you achieve this you will get there as you can do most of the songs while in MB.

Forgive me if my memory is fuzzy, but isn't that cross over ramp riveted on to the left ramp?

May want to double check on that. If so, before you commit to buying one, please make sure you are comfortable drilling out rivets and installing new ones.

I think that's a pretty cool mod but I'd hate to see CPR9999 spends the time and money redeveloping these and then a bunch of "in" turn to "outs" when the install process is past their comfort level.

Thanks for the confirmation. I recalled taking that ramp out at some point and not being able to get the crossover off. I just wasn't 100% if I was just being lazy or if it was riveted.

Think that's important info for anyone wanting to do the mod as most, assumption, aren't going to be real comfortable with that process.

When I got my game that switch was to far apart and would never register due to it's location. Check to make sure that there is a small gap and that it will close with a ball impact. Going into switch test is easiest to make sure things are working. if memory serves me correctly that switch is a bit of a pain to get out so hopefully that is all that is needed.

You can do both but IMHO, just adding the external sub was the best bang for the buck for me. I have a Flipper Fidelity system on mine though.

As for interactive backbox lighting. There are several different translight/backglasses available for AC/DC. Be sure to settle on which you want before you go the interactive route. That's also a reason why there are so many versions.

As far as mods. My got to for this game are simple but effective:
- External Sub
- Red Apron and add the pinball refinery lighting kit (it puts lights under the plastics for both diverters on the ramps, one in the canon and 2 under the apron. They pulsate with the stock flashers on the ramps. Makes for a cool effect and really helps you know when the canon is ready to be loaded.
- Lightening bolt flashers (I have pinbits and love them).
- Bass drums for the diverter coils, if you can find them. Really dresses up the game as it hides those ugly things
- CPR9999 roof top mod. Most people overlook this one but not seeing that gab was big for me, especially since I have mirror blades.
- The Bell cover (I like the wood one)

For your "E" lane. It's really hard to tell in the picture but it looks like the oval side of the lane guide is at the bottom. It should be at the top. They often times get put on backwards and in this case it makes that part of the lane slightly longer and the rubber gets in the way. Double check that. IF it's still a problem you could try a slightly smaller rubber there. It would be pulled real tight but it should help as well.

Take a stepper bit and cut the holes out using the old apron as a template for the most part.

So, not the best question to ask but I'm going to ask it. I've had my Prem since they first came out. I've loved it for a long time but I'm just not playing it anymore so I'm considering selling it. Hard part is I have no clue what these are worth these days anymore. I see pricing all over the place

Mine isn't over the top but it's got a lot of mods and a few that are not obtainable anymore. Snapshot of the game:
- prem that is damn near perfect. The only defect I can find is the leg (on the dancing band member) broke off (I still have it though) and there is a very small blemish in the black of the shooter lane. There is mylar there now.
- Full Helen package with the addition of the pro overlay converted to the under playfield.
- Original Roof Top mod (my design before handing over to CPR9999) that is red with interactive flashers and GI lights. Also signed by Steve R.
- Flipper Fidelity speaker upgrades
- Headphone kit in coin door
- Bass drum covers for the ramp diverter coils
- Train decal for cross over ramp
- Translucent Red Apron with Pinball Refinery lighting (2 under apron, one in each bass drum and one in canon)
- Bell wood style cover
- Titan rubbers
- mantis protectors in bell and song change scoops
- Mirror blades
- Shaker motor

Basically the same mods that most people do without the cannon mod and color DMD as I'm just not into those. What's your thoughts on the value of this? If I put it up for sale I wouldn't be looking for a fire drill sale nor a take 6 months to move. Just have been debating on a DeadPool Prem or JP2 and unfortunately AC/DC is lowest on my list of games the family wont veto nor is bolted to the ground at my house

Appreciate the feedback.

Well.... My wife says I'm worthless so I guess that means it's not worth much. The price with mods seems to be basically what I've seen for them without mods. I may just remove the unobtainable ones (like the Helen artwork) and just keep those items in case I get the game again in the future. Right now my problem is space.

I played that game at the tournament. Made for an easy player if you knew how to exploit an acdc. I put up 150 million on my game. Took 2 balls to figure it out.

It did indeed have superband. I "think" it may have had William's stops on it. That's the only time I've seen stern flippers that high is with those. I can confirm they were at the right lower height.

Game was mint and played super fast with wide open outlanes.

Fun game still but really was a huge advantage for a handful of us

What are you wanting/needing to remove? No machine comes with a full tear-down manual but if we know what you are trying to get to I think we can help. Generally speaking, I always start with the ramps on any game.

Can you elaborate? In the Rosie mode they should all be (I think it's pink or maybe purple). The only exception would be during the skill shot. If you have one that is a different color it could be an indication that one of the lights (RGB) on the light board is bad so it's not adding that color spectrum to the mixture.

After collecting the award it will swing and advance towards PF X. On earlier code it would do it all the time when in hells bells. If you haven't collected the award it just score a hell bells mode shot.

About 99% sure it's not used to stop the bell from swinging as some (like mine) swing forever.

The new code pretty much limited its use.

It still moves but you need the AWARD BELL SHOT WITH V.I.P. PASS award before it will swing.

Yes, in earlier code you could swing the bell with a VIP pass all the time. Strategy was for playfield multipliers or to swing before shooting saucer. All that changed with newest code as it was exploited to keep playfield multipliers going for a real long time.

100%, take off both ramps. Fairly easy to do as you just need to disconnect the wires running to the switches, lights and coils. Fish those wires through the PF and remove the nuts on the outsides of the ramps and the 2 screws that hold the ramp flap to the PP. Then lift. At that point you will have plenty of access to do all of what you want to do.

If yours is nice and level now, I'd just remove it from the bottom. It's only 4 screws and something like 5-6 wire harness connections. Takes about the same amount of time but re-leveling wont be in the mix anymore.