265/300 The art package is incredibly striking in person (unexpected)

I have an original Luci modded to the max that I’ll never let go, but the BIBLE always intrigued me. That’s a beauty, for sure. Feel free to post more pics of that gem

I played a LUCI a few months back that had been absolutely trashed. I don't think it was an original, but the re-release? It made me very sad.

Anyway, here are a few pictures. It has mods, and I've pulled a few off since this picture (the 666 sign caused issues with the ramp). I think the things that made the biggest difference were moving to VooDoo glass (which I just did), and replacing the incandescent with LEDs (I had a ton that had burned out over the years). Of course, the DMD is a beautiful touch. Certainly a pin that gets played almost daily.

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It looks fantastic, the BIB limited translite and cabinet art is what really draws me in. Beautiful pin and tastefully modded. I still need to install ColorDMDs in Metallica LE and AC/DC. Here’s my original Luci.
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100% credit to previous owner (HUO example here). Delighted to be the steward for this pin

The armor and tone of the side art was a very pleasant surprise.

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Pics look amazing mate, congrats. I've had my ACDC LTBR the longest of any pin i've owned, such an awesome pin to play.

That game is sick man, enjoy it. Love the black cat on the Back in Black!

It is beautiful. The laser cut side armor - that was one really hard let down with some of the later Stern LE's. It is incredible and I think makes the machine. But now you have to buy it as an add-on (Godzilla, I'm looking at you....).

The topper is perfect and it looks fantastic. The DMD was another mod that was an absolute must. It really is a perfect addition.

Hi everyone. I recently picked up my premium (orig)and am having a problem, likely from shipping but Im not sure.

The game has the led lights coming from J5 malfunctioning. Here is what's going on.

Boards 1-5 are not working correctly.

The TNT, ACDC, Song Selection, Rock boards do not light up.
The led board at the bottom of the playfield (mode selections) is locked kinda dim on along with all of the other single insert leds that are illuminating at reg power from j5. Power travels through every other board to reach the board at the bottom of the playfield. When unplugging anywhere in the flow, those lights turn off.

I have tried reseating all cables. Read the manual, traced the wires. I have measured the test points on the driver board. The only one that seems odd is the 50v which reads as 75. The 5v, 12, -12 etc all read fine. If someone could list me which pins and what voltages on the boards., that would be amazing.

Anyone have this issue where one string stays illuminated (just stays on in test mode as well) and the rest do not work?

Where to start guys?

Thanks for any suggestions. I have a multimeter at the ready and just need to understand some of the logic, or flow. This is my first game diagnosing led boards etc. Owned plenty of older ones.

gary

Hi Gary -

Ouch.

The fun on the LED boards with AC/DC - they are all daisy-chained together. Chris Hibbler has a really good overview of this configuration on his website (https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Stern_S.A.M._System_Repair#The_New_Stern_LED_Lamp_System), including how to troubleshoot.

If one goes out, they all can go out, and you'll need to figure out the culprit (like a string of Christmas tree lights!)

Start on Y20 of the service manual and you'll get a good picture how they are wired together. J5 is found on page Y26. There are five lamp boards (520-5324-01 to -05) in the cabinet, and any one of them could be the issue. Like Chris said, you can use a z-connector to bypass boards and determine which one is actually bad.

From J5 --> Board 2 (Jukebox) --> Board 3 (Upper) --> Board 4 (Right 4-bank) --> Board 5 (Left 5-bank) --> Board 1 (Lower playfield)

I'd definitely start with his approach and see if you can identify the culprit. Otherwise, the cost of each board can be a bit crazy, and they may not be readily available. If you do find a bad one, they are easy replace, but it is tight around the drop targets.

Good luck and let me know if that helps any!

So if I were to disconnect every board and then run run j5 to the jukebox, it should illuminate? It did not and being that this is the first in the chain, I will try to connect the harness to try the other boards.
I had seen the flow of connections in the Manual. Are you able to point me to the voltages of the pins coming off j5, and when to test them?

Also, when using the x connector, isn’t one side 5 pins and the other is six? How does that work? Thanks

Thank you so much, everything helps. I understand the logic but am not going to throw parts at this.

Also, can I just pull all the board and plug them into the first cable? Does only j1 on the board need to be plugged in? What about the larger center “control” molex.

Took some pics of the boards. When placing each of them in position one from j5, only board 1 illuminated. These lights stayed on (not sure what should happen exactly)

The boards look to have been worked on in the past, and the chips all look burned on top.

What can be the cause of that? They all do look original.

Anybody repair these?

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J5 to J1 on Board 2. Since it is first up, that might tell you something, yes.

So which board lit up? I'm guessing that was the 4 drop-bank. After you connected that, did you then try connecting the J2 to the next J1 in the chain with a 2nd board?

I really wish I could find that for you, but no, it's not in the manual from what I can see. I suspect they are all 3 to 5v and if I get a chance, I'll check mine. The problem was that when AC/DC came out in 2012, the original manual actually never referenced J5 (it has J13 which were 18v lamp colums). When you get to the updated manual for the reissue (whenever that was), maybe I am blind, but I don't see any reference to J5 on pages 73 to 77. I've not been able to find any reference to it, but you might have luck looking at the manuals for some of the other pins that had the same board (520-5317-00).

Do you mean a z-connector? I've not used one for this application, so hopefully someone can chime in that's better at this than I am. But I am guessing you'd use a 6-connector on both sides (and yeah, get someone to back that statement up!). I've not seen a 5-6 pin z-connector.

Not sure what you mean bout the center "control" molex, tho?

I'll take a look at mine and see if the have the same weirdness on the chips.

As for if anyone repairs these, the first person I would start with is Chris. I've had him work on a board and he did wonderful work. But because the chips are special, they might be throw-aways. I'm just not sure.

Giving my BIBLE a 10 year tune-up.
This one had the cloudy window, installing a nice clear one.
Yes, the new one does have the signature from The King.

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Does that mean stripping and re-clearing?

Doing a playfield swap, to a NOS LE playfield, those had extra clear coat layer and Steve Ritchie signature under it.
Also installing new ramps and plastic set.
Washed harness and cleaning up all assemblies.
Then back on route!

I wanted to give a quick shout out to Brandon ArcadeUpkeep for his dimming backbox lighting. The one and only things I didn't enjoy in my BIBLE was the damn fluorescent light, and that is thankfully gone now.

Took a little bit of "adjusting" with a box cutter to fit around the heat sink at the lower left, but just fantastic - love the even lighting, love having an attract mode brightness and in game brightness setting, and love that it is straight LED lighting (no Christmas tree effect). Price is extremely reasonable as well.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1233-arcade-upkeep/03117-dimming-backbox-panel

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Lol...you know, upon reflection, that was pretty obvious from your pics, but my brain apparently wasn't comprehending what it was seeing this morning.

I have figured out some further items. First, to answer your questions. The board that illuminated was the lower playfield board.
I was able to follow the manual to see that the power side of the boards are the j1 side and the slave side is J2, each has six active pins but the J1 plug has seven spaces and a key. So a direct harness to harness connection (yes I meant Z before) would not work. So What I did was move every board into position one.

By control molex, I meant the j3 connections that switch the lighting, vs powering. This was not needed for diagnosis of the board unless someone tells me otherwise, please..

I was able to verify the five volts at the j5 pin one connection. The online manuals have J5 and list the feeds to it.

I followed another members advice and then tried to power the boards with a small battery. The only board to illuminate with a battery was also the lower playfield board. I was able to power the lights individually by powering pin one of J1 and then connecting to the negative side of the led. No other Leds on any boards would illuminate.

Am I to surmise that all of these boards are dead? I assume that the individual leds slowly burned out over time and then the boards were just never replaced, leading the lower playfield board to be locked on. Anything else to test on the board?

Thanks for any other information, much appreciated. The game is awesome but I have to say Im not to happy about the lighting issue as it makes the game unreadable.

Is there anything I am not trying? Is there another way to try to power the board or the individual leds?

Gary

Finished the swap! Looking good for 37k plays!

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Looks great bro!

So question for everyone with an BiBLE...

How does one go about getting a new EPROM? If I attempt to do an firmware upgrade, the game freezes. The only way to recover is to power off / power on.

Will not boot when dipswitch 8 is turned on. Tried different USB, etc and it just doesn't like it.

Stern tested the board and they said there wasn't any issues. I can pull the EPROM and throw it in another CPU board and the pin never boots. This leads me to believe I may have a corrupted EPROM.

I have asked both my vendor (Automated) and Stern about how to get a new EPROM, and Automated told me to contact Marco. Unfortunately, talked to Marco and they can't help. Stern said to go through my vendor, but ...

Anyone have any ideas? Thank you in advance!

I'm going to look at a luci in 2 days, does the sam hold lifetime plays, or erase on code updates?

Eraases on updates

Only paid credits will remain. So, if is was routed there will be a lifetime mentioned but only of games paid for. So, if for instance 1000 HUO games have been played afterwards and a software update was done it will not be shown. Last software update was however years and years ago.

Condition is king I always say.

Has anyone made a stronger target behind the TNT drop targets? Every 6 months I have disassemble the TNT target and bend apart the upsidedown target that has smashed together after being hit. I have replaced the original target and it is having the same issue. Has anyone found a more permanent fix for this issue as the disassembly of the tnt plastic box is a bitch to say the least!
Thanks for the help,
Al

I’m having an issue where the canon will sometimes stay in the fully open position after firing it. If I go into the menu, sometimes I can close it, and sometimes it will stop in the open position. I get a switch 62 fail. Any ideas on what the issue could be? My game is a pro, but I doubt that changes anything. The pro thread is kinda dead so thought I’d check here as well.

Interested in buying a Premium LE, with Shaker mod.. Only 1 owner, home use, low number of games, excellent shape.

But I am not sure what the real value of the pin is/what going prices are vs asking price. seeing prices all over the place from 10k to 17k+, and not looking to get ripped off (am new to buying pins).

Any thoughts on what I should pay, what they should be selling for?

Thanks in advance, and sorry if asking an inappropriate question as a newbie here savings the goods

Premium and LE are two different ones. Is it the back in black? or just premium? Big price difference.

it is the LE Back in Black

That will bring top dollar. I would say 16-17k. Have you found one yet.

There are two LEs… Back in Black and Let There Be Rock… I think LTBR is the rarer one.

Have an AC/DC premium and think the power driver board needs to be worked on, so I was going to swap in a SAM power driver board but it looks different. Looking into this, looks like Premium/LE games use Stern SAM 520-5317-00 Driver Board, where my board is a plain Stern SAM Driver Board 520-5249-00 Revision D. Can I swap in my Rev. D board to just test? or will the differences wreck anything? Based upon pinwiki they removed the 18v and such

Anyone install the Modfather airplane with lights? My kid gave me it for xmas and it did not have any instructions and I can't find them on the Modfather site. I have emailed them with zero response.

Thanks in advance!

Confirmed the “pro” driver board can be tested in the “prem/le” it just doesn’t have the led/lights.

Loose parts from my game. Ideas where there from?

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Do you have hooked on pinballs metal pop caps?

No

I’m looking to finally spice up my acdc premium a bit. Any mod recommendations? I’m looking to buy a color dmd if anybody is selling one for starters. Thanks

I think those belong on top of the plastic under TNT.

I’m also looking for the laseriffic train topper if anybody is looking to sell one. Thanks

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konghusker

https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/ac-dc-train-pinball-topper

Awesome!! I got it ordered. Thanks

Anybody recommend a set of aftermarket speakers for the original wood box premium? I’m looking for just back box replacements and I’ll add an external sub. What are the popular choices for the 4” speakers? Thanks

Pinwoofer has new speakers which sound great also the 4inch kickers are really good.
Harley D.

Are the 4” kickers the car ones at Best Buy the 4ohm ones? Reading we can put 4ohm ones in if wired in a series

Kicker cs series 4 ohm