AC/DC is such a shot in the arm with their new Power Up album - realize I really miss this pin.
What a tribute!
AC/DC is such a shot in the arm with their new Power Up album - realize I really miss this pin.
What a tribute!
My AC/DC Premium machine has developed a new glitch that I was wondering if anyone else has encountered. When the ball is first launched to the juke box and you hold the right flipper button, the strong exit from the juke box hole hits the rubber post at the bottom of the right orbit lane, before the top ball gate and never makes it down to the playfield along the right orbit. So, I am almost never able to attempt the super skill shot. Sometimes, it will still make it to the right orbit after it bounces off a post and back up again to the right orbit, but that is a little rare. I have removed both ramps and the plastic over the juke box scoop to see if there was anything visible that makes the ball exit a little low and I can't see anything obvious. I did install a cliffy on the juke box hole and I took that off to see if that might be the problem. That did not change anything. I also replaced the microswitch that registers a ball in the juke box hole and that had no effect. I plan to replace the coil (part 23-800), the plunger (part 515-5941-01) with the plastic on the end and the spring on the vertical upkick there to see if that helps any. The directional scoop at the top of the juke box hole does not appear to be bent or damaged and I did remove it to see if there were any visible defects and found none. This has a been a LOT of work, so I am hoping that someone has already seen this problem and has a solution. I am hoping that the age of my coil has made it weak and caused the strong launch to dip a little bit and hit that post. But it seems to kick out pretty hard, so have not attempted the replacement yet. Replacing that coil would have been simple compared to what I have done to this point.
Quoted from Dent00:My AC/DC Premium machine has developed a new glitch that I was wondering if anyone else has encountered. When the ball is first launched to the juke box and you hold the right flipper button, the strong exit from the juke box hole hits the rubber post at the bottom of the right orbit lane, before the top ball gate and never makes it down to the playfield along the right orbit. So, I am almost never able to attempt the super skill shot. Sometimes, it will still make it to the right orbit after it bounces off a post and back up again to the right orbit, but that is a little rare. I have removed both ramps and the plastic over the juke box scoop to see if there was anything visible that makes the ball exit a little low and I can't see anything obvious. I did install a cliffy on the juke box hole and I took that off to see if that might be the problem. That did not change anything. I also replaced the microswitch that registers a ball in the juke box hole and that had no effect. I plan to replace the coil (part 23-800), the plunger (part 515-5941-01) with the plastic on the end and the spring on the vertical upkick there to see if that helps any. The directional scoop at the top of the juke box hole does not appear to be bent or damaged and I did remove it to see if there were any visible defects and found none. This has a been a LOT of work, so I am hoping that someone has already seen this problem and has a solution. I am hoping that the age of my coil has made it weak and caused the strong launch to dip a little bit and hit that post. But it seems to kick out pretty hard, so have not attempted the replacement yet. Replacing that coil would have been simple compared to what I have done to this point.
Mine did that after my Cliffy install. It’s not the protector itself but rather the kick out shield piece got moved. A tiny bit screws it up. Unfortunately the solution is getting back down in there to get to the two hex head screws and pushing the shield up more parallel to the back of the play field. Still, after fixing mine, it does this about 1 in 10 times.
Quoted from ezatnova:Mine did that after my Cliffy install. It’s not the protector itself but rather the kick out shield piece got moved. A tiny bit screws it up. Unfortunately the solution is getting back down in there to get to the two hex head screws and pushing the shield up more parallel to the back of the play field. Still, after fixing mine, it does this about 1 in 10 times.
Interesting... I might try placing a thin washer under the screw nearest the top to tilt the scoop more towards the top of the playfield and see what result that yields.
I tried one washer and two washers under the top screw under the scoop bracket to tilt it slightly to avoid hitting the post right before that top ball gate and did not see good results. I am going to replace the plunger, the spring and the associated coil before I take more drastic measures. I am considering taking a dremmel tool or correct size drill bit to widen the mounting holes on the scoop bracket, so that I can turn it slightly to be more parallel with the back of the machine. I think I will also replace the pot metal screws used to hold the scoop bracket in place with some stainless steel screws. It is strange how this happened now, since I installed that cliffy about a year ago and it has operated normally until recently. The ball has always exited straight to the right orbit on the strong exit from the juke box hole, like every time.
I replaced the coil on the vertical upkicker on the jukebox, the coil sleeve and also replaced the plunger. No change on the strong exit from the jukebox. The ball still hits the post to the right of the right orbit on the strong exit from the jukebox. It does seem to come out a little bit stronger than before with the new parts. I am starting to wonder if the ball is hitting the bottom of the plastic cover for the song listing or the metal guide along the top of the playfield area and deflecting slightly to that post. I am going to try level adjustments recommended by Chuckwurt and see if that has any affect. I noticed that there is a slight bit of wear on the scoop used to deflect the ball out of the jukebox, but the scoop in this area feels smooth to the touch in this area. I thought about just purchasing a new scoop bracket to attempt that correction, but I cannot find a part number in the manual or a location to purchase this item. If anyone knows where I can purchase a new scoop for the jukebox or a part number for this item, please let me know.
I need some quick help.
(I would do, but sold my machine.)
Thanks in advance!
If you have a multi-meter / volt meter.....
1. Can you measure the voltage in 1 of the 2 #44 sockets. (See picture below of location - green highlighted circles). They are located just behind band - located on the back wood panel at the top. Actually there is like a row of 8 of these across the top of that back wood panel. Fire up the game, Take the bulb out and put the red “+” probe inside Socket touching the dead center spring AND the black “-“ probe to the metal case of the outside of socket? Does it read 5v or -5v?
2. Can you do the same with the flasher?
Highlighted in yellow in picture. Put “+” red probe inside the socket on the spring and the black “-“ probe on the outside socket case. Does it read -12v? Note this one is tricky to measure because you have to “Fire” the flasher from the menu while capturing the measurement. Either your spouse can help OR put your meter on auto capture of highest measurement.
Note alligator clips can help too.
Thank you!!
3168DC48-0909-48AF-A88C-D54D2292CBD4 (resized).jpeg
AC/DC Roof Band Mod:
1 time - Limited Holiday run. Qty 6 made.
I have not made these in 2 years - this is special request / run. Once gone, they are gone!!
Quoted from cpr9999:I need some quick help.
(I would do, but sold my machine.)
Thanks in advance!
If you have a multi-meter / volt meter.....
1. Can you measure the voltage in 1 of the 2 #44 sockets. (See picture below of location - green highlighted circles). They are located just behind band - located on the back wood panel at the top. Actually there is like a row of 8 of these across the top of that back wood panel. Fire up the game, Take the bulb out and put the red “+” probe inside Socket touching the dead center spring AND the black “-“ probe to the metal case of the outside of socket? Does it read 5v or -5v?
2. Can you do the same with the flasher?
Highlighted in yellow in picture. Put “+” red probe inside the socket on the spring and the black “-“ probe on the outside socket case. Does it read -12v? Note this one is tricky to measure because you have to “Fire” the flasher from the menu while capturing the measurement. Either your spouse can help OR put your meter on auto capture of highest measurement.
Note alligator clips can help too.
Thank you!!
[quoted image]
What are you looking for exactly? All Sam games have either 6 volt GI/insert lights, or 12 volt flashers. So you should be getting 6 volts on the smaller 44 sockets and 12 volts on the flasher. Also, you don't have to measure inside the socket, you can measure the wires going to the outside.
Quoted from Kawydud:What are you looking for exactly? All Sam games have either 6 volt GI/insert lights, or 12 volt flashers. So you should be getting 6 volts on the smaller 44 sockets and 12 volts on the flasher. Also, you don't have to measure inside the socket, you can measure the wires going to the outside.
Agree with your comments in general.
However, I need to verify these 100%.
If I remember correctly, that 12v flasher is wired in backwards - just that one on the game. Specifically, the flasher case is Positive side of the 12v and the Spring inside is negative side.
Can someone verify?
Thx
Quoted from cpr9999:Agree with your comments in general.
However, I need to verify these 100%.
If I remember correctly, that 12v flasher is wired in backwards - just that one on the game. Specifically, the flasher case is Positive side of the 12v and the Spring inside is negative side.
Can someone verify?
Thx
The GI lights should be 6.3V AC, so they are not polarized.
The flashers should be 12V DC with the positive on the inside.
These are just general numbers, so yours might vary slightly.
Quoted from cpr9999:Agree with your comments in general.
However, I need to verify these 100%.
If I remember correctly, that 12v flasher is wired in backwards - just that one on the game. Specifically, the flasher case is Positive side of the 12v and the Spring inside is negative side.
Can someone verify?
Thx
If the flasher case is positive, it won't work with an LED flasher. Polarity can't be changed with an 89. Found that out recently when trying to install flashers in a Tommy. Some would work, some wouldn't. Found out from another pinsider that the power has to be on the center, negative on the case.
Quoted from Kawydud:If the flasher case is positive, it won't work with an LED flasher. Polarity can't be changed with an 89. Found that out recently when trying to install flashers in a Tommy. Some would work, some wouldn't. Found out from another pinsider that the power has to be on the center, negative on the case.
Normally this is correct.
Can someone verify the flasher???
I am almost 100% confident this is the only flasher on the game reversed?
Thx
Quoted from cpr9999:Can someone verify the flasher???
Thx
There is a list of the flashers on the AC/DC machine on page 22 in the manual.
The manual lists them as 20VDC flashers and there is a flasher test option on the testing menu on the machine.
I think the one that you are working on is #22 "Back Panel Flasher".
Quoted from Dent00:There is a list of the flashers on the AC/DC machine on page 22 in the manual.
The manual lists them as 20VDC flashers and there is a flasher test option on the testing menu on the machine.
I think the one that you are working on is #22 "Back Panel Flasher".
I sold my machine- otherwise I would go check quick. It is 12vdc - just need to verify + and - sides of socket. I believe just this one is backwards on all Acdc machines.
I have at least 1 left:
Edit: I now have 4 left. Hoping to be ready next weekend. Used up the last of my parts - get one of these. If you miss out, sorry, these are a pain to make (too much time).
I got the roof mod in from cpr9999 and it looks fantastic. I can't believe Stern shipped with that ugly corner showing. Thanks for making a run of these.
20201207_181807 (resized).jpg20201207_190002 (resized).jpg20201207_190011 (resized).jpg20201207_190030 (resized).jpg20201208_202633 (resized).jpg20201208_202637 (resized).jpgIf anyone in this club or the Pro club would like a free set of these cards in exchange for photographs of them installed and possibly a couple of short videos, please let me know. Limited to one set, and the first person to post here. (Keeps my PMs from getting flooded with responses)
Thanks, Tim
Quoted from ralphwiggum:If anyone in this club or the Pro club would like a free set of these cards in exchange for photographs of them installed and possibly a couple of short videos, please let me know. Limited to one set, and the first person to post here. (Keeps my PMs from getting flooded with responses)
Thanks, Tim
PM sent
Quoted from Dent00:I replaced the coil on the vertical upkicker on the jukebox, the coil sleeve and also replaced the plunger. No change on the strong exit from the jukebox. The ball still hits the post to the right of the right orbit on the strong exit from the jukebox. It does seem to come out a little bit stronger than before with the new parts. I am starting to wonder if the ball is hitting the bottom of the plastic cover for the song listing or the metal guide along the top of the playfield area and deflecting slightly to that post. I am going to try level adjustments recommended by Chuckwurt and see if that has any affect. I noticed that there is a slight bit of wear on the scoop used to deflect the ball out of the jukebox, but the scoop in this area feels smooth to the touch in this area. I thought about just purchasing a new scoop bracket to attempt that correction, but I cannot find a part number in the manual or a location to purchase this item. If anyone knows where I can purchase a new scoop for the jukebox or a part number for this item, please let me know.
I was able to purchase a new scoop bracket and it came in today (Part 535-5041-00). In comparison to the old bracket, there is a difference as the old bracket has some minor wear marks along the center. The old bracket still feels smooth in this area that has the wear marks. See attached photo for comparison of the old and new brackets. I also got some new balls and I plan to install this new bracket and new balls to see if the strong exit from the juke box goes to the right orbit correctly now.
IMG_20201216_160558 (resized).jpgQuoted from Dent00:I was able to purchase a new scoop bracket and it came in today (Part 535-5041-00). In comparison to the old bracket, there is a difference as the old bracket has some minor wear marks along the center. The old bracket still feels smooth in this area that has the wear marks. See attached photo for comparison of the old and new brackets. I also got some new balls and I plan to install this new bracket and new balls to see if the strong exit from the juke box goes to the right orbit correctly now.
[quoted image]
I installed the new scoop bracket, put in new balls and fixed my problem. The strong exit from the juke box now goes directly to the right orbit, every time. I think the problem was the minor wear marks on the scoop bracket. The marks did not seem significant, as the bracket was still smooth to the touch in this area. But, I guess just the minor imperfections on that bracket made all the difference in the track the ball took on exit from the juke box. Now, I just have to reassemble all the plastics, ramps, etc, etc and put everything back together. Getting to that scoop bracket is a lot of work.
IMG_20201220_102531 (resized).jpgIMG_20201220_102547 (resized).jpgJust bumped a bunch of spare AC/DC parts if you need look under my name / ads....thx.
I have a Premium Vault that I’m trying to install a ColorDMD on, and I’m stuck. The issue is that there are six permanent bolts that held the original DMD, but there are only four holes, (in the corners), on the new DMD. No mounting holes in the center of the ColorDMD. I understand that spacers are provided and used to offset the difference in the new DMD’s bigger size, but the spacers do not prevent the middle bolts from coming dangerously close to touching the screen. Plus, even if there weren’t two middle bolts, I would still have a visual 3/4” gap between the plastic and the DMD from the front when installed and put back together. Who has a Vault and has installed this? Thanks!
40D649C1-F417-4B16-8F1F-05E302FD48A4 (resized).jpegA780708F-9976-46AD-AD2F-7CA5F6F84B1F (resized).jpegB05CC282-D985-4067-A0EE-47A7AAF926A7 (resized).jpegF96EBFDA-447E-4EBE-B120-44C00B2293B5 (resized).jpegQuoted from seah2os:I have a Premium Vault that I’m trying to install a ColorDMD on, and I’m stuck. The issue is that there are six permanent bolts that held the original DMD, but there are only four holes, (in the corners), on the new DMD. No mounting holes in the center of the ColorDMD. I understand that spacers are provided and used to offset the difference in the new DMD’s bigger size, but the spacers do not prevent the middle bolts from coming dangerously close to touching the screen. Plus, even if there weren’t two middle bolts, I would still have a visual 3/4” gap between the plastic and the DMD from the front when installed and put back together. Who has a Vault and has installed this? Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Is there a difference between ACDC with metal vs wood backbox and color screen?
Quoted from cpr9999:Is there a difference between ACDC with metal vs wood backbox and color screen?
I’ve only owned the Vault with metal so I don’t know. Apparently the larger ColorDMD does not lie flat on the speaker/screen panel like the original DMD does, so spacers are provided. There’s nearly a 3/4” lip that must be overcome.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from seah2os:I have a Premium Vault that I’m trying to install a ColorDMD on, and I’m stuck. The issue is that there are six permanent bolts that held the original DMD, but there are only four holes, (in the corners), on the new DMD. No mounting holes in the center of the ColorDMD. I understand that spacers are provided and used to offset the difference in the new DMD’s bigger size, but the spacers do not prevent the middle bolts from coming dangerously close to touching the screen. Plus, even if there weren’t two middle bolts, I would still have a visual 3/4” gap between the plastic and the DMD from the front when installed and put back together. Who has a Vault and has installed this? Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
There is a metal door kit on the ColorDMD website. Need the extra spacers and the foam insert.
Quoted from seah2os:I have a Premium Vault that I’m trying to install a ColorDMD on, and I’m stuck. The issue is that there are six permanent bolts that held the original DMD, but there are only four holes, (in the corners), on the new DMD. No mounting holes in the center of the ColorDMD. I understand that spacers are provided and used to offset the difference in the new DMD’s bigger size, but the spacers do not prevent the middle bolts from coming dangerously close to touching the screen. Plus, even if there weren’t two middle bolts, I would still have a visual 3/4” gap between the plastic and the DMD from the front when installed and put back together. Who has a Vault and has installed this? Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You have everything there to install your new DMD. The 4 spacers with male thread and you should have the black original spacers as well you only use the 4 corner threads to install the dmd, the middle ones will not be use obviously it’s going to hit the screen. A gap between the metal box and DMD is normal you’ll have to purchase the gasket kit to fill in the void, but to be honest you really don’t need it I never use it on my install I can send pics if needed.
Quoted from Blackzarak:You have everything there to install your new DMD. The 4 spacers with male thread and you should have the black original spacers as well you only use the 4 corner threads to install the dmd, the middle ones will not be use obviously it’s going to hit the screen. A gap between the metal box and DMD is normal you’ll have to purchase the gasket kit to fill in the void, but to be honest you really don’t need it I never use it on my install I can send pics if needed.
No concern with the center bolts touching the screen? Yes, please, on pics. Especially closeup of spacers and from front to see gap, if not inconvenient. Thanks!
I just took pics of my AC/DC and TWD, but this pic I found online should be more helpful. Get the gasket, it's a much cleaner look. You should be able to get it from Pinmonk, Pinball Life, Cointaker or ColorDMD. Check for the best shipping rate, as it can vary greatly!
pasted_image (resized).pngI thought I had a lighting issue on my premium.
When you fire cannon, sometimes, not often, there are some strange flickering lights in unrelated inserts.
I decided to look on youtube and straight away found this video.
At around 17 minutes 30 seconds, cannon is fired and flickering occurs.
Now guessing this is some kind of bug??
Too late to send to Stern bugs?
Quoted from Shapeshifter:I thought I had a lighting issue on my premium.
I have this exact issue on my Luci VE. It sometimes affects the juke box lights as shown in the video, and sometimes random insert lights (most often the TNT inserts and the right most blue circle Thunderstruck insert). Often when the cannon rotates and fires and perhaps sometimes during bonus countdowns. I sent a video to Chaz back in the the day, and he told be that wasn't normal, and we swapped the main CPU board, which didn't help, and then I replaced various other LED board on my own, just to see if it would help, but eventually just gave up, as nothing I tried would prevent this, so I'm assuming it's a bug, and if it is a bug, I was always wondering why nobody else ever brought this up, LOL.
Quoted from Rum-Z:I have this exact issue on my Luci VE. It sometimes affects the juke box lights as shown in the video, and sometimes random insert lights (most often the TNT inserts and the right most blue circle Thunderstruck insert). Often when the cannon rotates and fires and perhaps sometimes during bonus countdowns. I sent a video to Chaz back in the the day, and he told be that wasn't normal, and we swapped the main CPU board, which didn't help, and then I replaced various other LED board on my own, just to see if it would help, but eventually just gave up, as nothing I tried would prevent this, so I'm assuming it's a bug, and if it is a bug, I was always wondering why nobody else ever brought this up, LOL.
That is exactly what mine does, and it seems others.
I am also really surprised it has not been picked up earlier by people.
I thought I had a bad connection on the cannon, as that is only time it occurs.
Might be worth letting Stern know, in case they fix the Oi Mania bug?
Qty 7 - ACDC roof mods ready!!!!
Last run ever - no more regular or Xmas runs etc. No more parts and way to much time in making these.
4 of the 7 sold.
Let me know soon....
Quoted from seah2os:I have a Premium Vault that I’m trying to install a ColorDMD on, and I’m stuck. The issue is that there are six permanent bolts that held the original DMD, but there are only four holes, (in the corners), on the new DMD. No mounting holes in the center of the ColorDMD. I understand that spacers are provided and used to offset the difference in the new DMD’s bigger size, but the spacers do not prevent the middle bolts from coming dangerously close to touching the screen. Plus, even if there weren’t two middle bolts, I would still have a visual 3/4” gap between the plastic and the DMD from the front when installed and put back together. Who has a Vault and has installed this? Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Here are the pics how it’s installed
1st Black spacer
2nd 2 washers
3rd hex spacer with thread on top
4th installed DMD then nuts and done
The center threads shouldn’t be touching the screen if done correctly, the black spacers I belive are original from the DMD you removed I’m assuming you have the metal speaker box if it’s wood it’s a different application.
F6B9BF57-CC25-4176-B93D-FD3C282C5CF3 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Shapeshifter:I thought I had a lighting issue on my premium.
When you fire cannon, sometimes, not often, there are some strange flickering lights in unrelated inserts.
I decided to look on youtube and straight away found this video.
At around 17 minutes 30 seconds, cannon is fired and flickering occurs.
Now guessing this is some kind of bug??
Too late to send to Stern bugs?
I didn’t quite have this issue but check out the wires connected to the bridge rectifier in the backbox and reseat the connector coming off of that.
Quoted from chuckwurt:I didn’t quite have this issue but check out the wires connected to the bridge rectifier in the backbox and reseat the connector coming off of that.
Thanks - tried this, but still flickering.
If not every game has this issue, I guess it can't be a bug.
Equally strange though is that if it's relatively common, you would think there would be a fix and diagnosis
Quoted from Shapeshifter:Thanks - tried this, but still flickering.
If not every game has this issue, I guess it can't be a bug.
Equally strange though is that if it's relatively common, you would think there would be a fix and diagnosis
There is. You just haven’t found it yet.
Quoted from DirtyDeeds:I removed a few of those clear plastics. Don't need them.
Thanks! I’ll remove the top one and see how it goes
Quoted from cpr9999:Qty 7 - ACDC Band Roof mods!!!!
Last run ever - no more regular or Xmas runs etc.
No more parts and way to much time in making these. 4 of the 7 sold.
(I have not made these in 2 years and this was a special request).
THX!
ONLY 2 left - let me know....
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