Can you post a pic of exactly where this is? If it's where I'm thinking it is, changing that 7/16 OD rubber with a 3/D rubber will fix the problem. Friend of mine (luci as well) had a tight clearance their and that rubber was actually holding the ball in the lane on slow moving balls.

If it's hanging up with just clearcoat their then a cliffy wont fix that.

I've got a question for everyone though. Anyone elses bell swing too much? I've noticed recently that after a solid bell hit my bell will keep swinging for more than 20 seconds. I know this timeline is correct because I constantly lose my 2x scoring because the bell doesn't stop swinging in enough time to keep building it or restart the timer. Really frustrating now. I don't think there was a code change their but it would be nice if after a couple seconds the magnet would stop the bell.

That's normal, but agree that a short magnet stoppage action would help.

Can someone with an original AC/DC run take a pic of the inside of the backbox panel where the stock DMD mounts? I'm trying to figure out what parts I need to order to swap out my ColorDMD back to a regular DMD. I'm not sure if I need the plastic shield or not since it's a LED display but the ACDC manual shows it.

here is a longer video

fyi, I am making a LIMITED run of 10 with the spare material I have. PM if interested.

Please read the pinside AD.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/acdc-roof-band-mod-lighted

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Not really sure if this helps; is there a specific angle maybe? Just Lemmy know man.
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Thanks a lot! I couldn't find the plastic shield anywhere, but I have the paper one from another display I pulled out of GoT, so I suppose that will do. I think the plastic shield is a holdover from when they were doing Plasma displays.

Just got my Luci a few days ago, and installed a shaker but it's not working. Everything thing seems to be plugged in correctly. In the settings the shaker motor was set to Maximum use. I tried a coil test on the motor and it didn't go on. How do I troubleshoot this? Just bought the shaker, but not sure thats the issue or not.

Are both cables plugged in?
One cable goes from the shaker to the pcb board.
The other goes from the board to the back of the cabinet ... on the bottom is a brown wire with a molex connector. Is that plugged into the cable going to the pcb board?

Yeah, unfortunately.

I'm looking at this post and seeing if this is the issue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shaker-motor-install-in-recent-stern-acdc

Edit - this wire says "shaker motor ground." There is No where to plug it though. Did i get the wrong part?

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Just wondering for those that have the Pinbits illuminated lightning bolts if anyone has preference for the standard white vs. red. vs. blue filters and how they look in actual gameplay on the playfield (I've watched the Youtube video but hard to see how it lights up the playfield with the color variations).
Any opinions from those that have installed these?

I have them. Most people seem to like the red, but I think the red is just too much red added to already red heavy lighting on the playfield and doesn't contrast more with the rest of the game lighting. To me those flashers should be a pop of a different color. I chose blue and it is kind of a washed out blue like a real life lightening bolt - not a dark rich blue. It goes very well with the white back flash, like a real lightening flash. The red with the white back flash ... just doesn't seem like the right combo to me for a lightening bolt. The front flash isn't super bright to flash the bulbs directly in your eyes. The back flash is awesome. Just my opinion ... I like them better than the others that are on the market.

Is this a normal ball hang up spot?

If so, any fixes?

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^^^^I've had that happen to me...maybe 4-5 times in the few thousands of games that have been put on the machine. Wasn't frequent enough to worry about. I would have to wiggle the machine a bit...and sometimes tilt that ball.

Looking for this mod. Any help would be appreciated.

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I've tried pretty much every combination.
The straight white bolts were just way too blinding. I tried the blue bolts and filters, but they seemed to clash with the warm white LEDs on the bolts. Ultimately I felt that the red bolts and filters blended the best with the game without being blinding. Obviously, YMMV.

I went with white and have been really happy with them. Yes, they are very bright!

I wouldn't say it's common but does happen occasionally. I can usually get mine to come loose with a light nude during the ball search.

Their should be a long single brown wire in the bottom of the cab (around the transformer). It's going to be hidden in that mess of wires down there. it's the only single brown wire in the lower part of the cab so you will know you have the right one. I think it should be an IDC connector though.

Found a video of someone installing their shaker in a MET. Will be the same for AC/DC.

I went with the white pinbits bolts. In my opinion, the original bolts were meant to mimic concert flashers, which are quite bright. I think the white ones do a great job.

I should probably update on this. This drove me crazy for 2 days. Everything was plugged in correctly and it didn't work. I contacted pinball life and Scott Danesi was helping me trouble shoot. He asked me to check the fuses and they were fine, but when I put them back in it started worked. I guess they werent seated properly? Not sure, but it's working now. Felt kind of stupid for not checking the fuses. I just assumed they would be fine straight out of the box. Shaker is working great now.

Don't feel to bad. I spent 30 mins trouble shooting a shaker install on a game I bought used. Fix was simple, just had to turn it on in the settings. Previous owner turned it off since it didn't have one and it took me 30 mins to even check that.

Sorry for the delay, here it is. Yep, I need to put a different rubber in there. Thanks!

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My War Machine spinner is barely recognizing a solid shot up the left lane.

I noticed the metal spinning arm is resting on a screw that holds the bumper (to the right) in place. (See picture)

The metal arm that holds the spinner has a flat wear spot that causes the target to rest at an angle instead of straight up and down. (See picture) The ball will typically go right under without touching the target, sometimes it will brick off the front.

I have been messing around with adjustments and can't seem to find one that works. I tried loosening the screw and moving the bumper to the right, but it didn't help. I'm tempted to cut a few milimeters off the arm so it doesn't touch the screw.

I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction here.

Thanks,
Brad

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Can you switch to a flat head bolt - lower profile bolt?

This is probably the best solution I think. Although 1mm is probably plenty

Rob

A follow up note about the sticking band member coil on my Luci. I put a small piece of mylar on the coil stop and that seems to have fixed the issue. The coil stop was getting magnetized and holding the coil shaft in.

Rob

I am making a 4th LIMITED run of 10 with the spare material I have. PM if interested. ACDC Lighted Band Mod.

Please read the pinside AD.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/acdc-roof-band-mod-lighted

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Does it spin fine but not register or is it not spinning well at all?

If spinning well but not registering hits as it should:
I think the reason for this is because the switch isn't very sensitive. Looking at your top pic I can see clear daylight between the switch and the spinner arm. They should be resting on each other ever so slightly. That arm doesn't move very much distance so it needs to be making a solid connection when the spinner is upside-down. As yours sits now on a good hit to the spinner I'm betting it's just not registering well.

If it's not spinning well then that screw could be the issue but in the pic it looks like their is plenty of clearance in the spinner itself even while resting on the screw. I can see where it can move up in the mount so it doesn't look like their is any binding there.

Shoot, I had that location confused with another location. That orientation looks correct. By the looks of it their is clearance for the ball as well so it shouldn't be holding up their. Is the game at 6.5 degrees pitch or more? If not, I would adjust to at min 6.5 (Stern's recommended pitch) and see if it still continues. If so you could switch to one size smaller rubber their (the long one) for which the extra stretch will give more clearance. Last option would be some mylar around the switch. I don't think a cliffy will work as if the ball is already moving slow enough to be caught like this I feel it would get caught on the upper side of the switch cliffy.

Had exact same issue on my NIB Luci VE. I removed the screw, and the spinner worked like it should. Noticed the arm was a little bent the last 3-4 mm. Causing it hit the screw. and making the spinner rest in an almost horizontal position.

I managed to straighten the arm using pliers. Now it's working like it should.

We are upgrading to color DMD, recommend LCD or LED?

Smoothing works great on this title, so go LCD

LCD, for sure. LED only when space dictates it.

I'm having issues with my AC/DC luci vault where the left and right ramps will only work intermittently. Basically if I shoot it up the left ramp and it's not working the diverter will not activate (if applicable) and it will not register as a completed task (e.g. doesn't add to jam multiple, doesn't turn off note, does score, etc). On the right ramp, it has similar issues (does not diver to cannon when applicable). This happens intermittently, and sometimes it works as it's supposed to. I tested the switches and both the entrance and exit switches on both ramps seem to be working correctly. Anyone have issues like this? not really sure what else to check.

How did you test the switches?

I pulled the glass and put it into switch test mode and threw a ball up the ramp, and I watched to see which switches were triggered. Both the entrance and exit switches are being triggered. I noticed that the entrance trigger is being triggered multiple times on the right ramp as it's swinging back and forth. So it may do something like, entrance, exit, entrance, inlane.

I threw the ball up about 25 to 30 times and it's triggered the exit 95%+ of the time. When I play the ramp works 50% maybe. It's tough to say without knowing how it's programmed, but I assume the lane diverter and completion of the note is triggered by the exit switch. I'm not sure exactly what's happening when I play a game, is the switch not registering or some other issue.

Did you test the diverters? It likely has to be either the switches not registering properly or the diverters not working properly. Odd that both sides are having issues.

The diverters are working fine. I tested in the coil test. Plus sometimes it doesn't register that a ramp was scored, so it can't just be the diverter. hmmm...doesn't seem to make sense that the switches would work well when i'm throwing the ball up, and not work when i'm in an actual game. i'll play around with it more but it seems like something is off.

Thanks for all of the responses everyone! Sorry for the delay, I just returned home after being out of town for a few weeks.

Today I swapped with a flat screw and it didn't help.

Bending the arm was my next step... so I checked this thread and saw all the replies, including this one. I'll give it a shot!

Thanks

As info, there is a gap with the Color LCD, I'm not sure if this has been addressed yet. Search through some threads on this just in case.

I'm a fan of LED, I like how vibrant the dots are and I'm more of a purist with the dots vs. blended or XL. The LED is a better fit too, and I do not believe there is a gap with the LED, but I'm not positive.

The LED does fit better, but the LCD is more versatile. I'm working on a gasket for the LCD that fills up that gap completely so there's no light bleed on the sides. On the jillionth prototype, but we're very close.

Fixed! Needlenose pliers on the left side of the arm while twisting the spinner and it is straight again. I'll have to keep an eye on this since it bent during 100 plays.

Time for some War Machine!

Brad

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Does anyone know what this space is used for on my VE Pinball. See blue circle in backbox. It has 4 posts.

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Must be a placeholder for something in other games with the metal backbox.

Here is my original and nothing is there:

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Did you find a source for the stick dynamite mod?

I have not but i look each day.
Harley D.

Do you know who made the original ones?

beatmaster made one version of them long ago with wires going to the detonator. I got one about a year or so ago from him that he still had laying around. Maybe check with him. With new ACDC pins being made, maybe he would start those back up if there was enough interest. Doesn't hurt to ask.

Heard back from beatmaster, he said if there is enough interest he would consider doing another run of the TnT Mod. So im pluging his mod as I think this is one of the coolest acdc mods out there.