(Topic ID: 207702)

AC/DC LUCI Vault


By KLR2014

10 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 876 posts
  • 173 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by cpr9999
  • Topic is favorited by 40 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Will you buy the ACDC luci VE”

  • Hell yes! 85 votes
    42%
  • Not sure 55 votes
    27%
  • I already own ACDC 62 votes
    31%

(202 votes)

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There have been 142 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

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There are 876 posts in this topic. You are on page 17 of 18.
#801 7 months ago
Quoted from rennervision:

Anyone else with a shaker motor notice it interferes with how the tilt plumb bob hangs?

If you can - post a pic, so we can see what you mean

#802 7 months ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

If you can - post a pic, so we can see what you mean

In this first photo I'm moving the tilt bob wire to see how far back the plumb bob can go. As you can see - it can't even touch maybe 40-50% of the ring because the shaker motor blocks it.

I think part of the problem is the plumb bob isn't centered inside the ring. The second photo from a higher angle shows where it rests when it hangs freely. I really can't raise the plumb bob any higher or the game will be way too sensitive - even tilting when the shaker motor kicks on!

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#803 7 months ago

You can bend the ring to try and center the bob looks like if you pull it towards the center of the cab it will help quite a bit.

#804 7 months ago

I don't think Stern even checks the tilt ring at the factory. Seems like you have to bend it (ring) to center it right yourself. Just did it on a March build Metalica, & the coin door sticker was installed with a list.

#805 7 months ago

Alright - I'll give that a try. Thanks guys.

#806 7 months ago
Quoted from rennervision:

In this first photo I'm moving the tilt bob wire to see how far back the plumb bob can go. As you can see - it can't even touch maybe 40-50% of the ring because the shaker motor blocks it.
I think part of the problem is the plumb bob isn't centered inside the ring. The second photo from a higher angle shows where it rests when it hangs freely. I really can't raise the plumb bob any higher or the game will be way too sensitive - even tilting when the shaker motor kicks on!

Your tilt bob is BELOW the ring. That's not the way it's supposed to work. On the easiest setting (before just taking it off) the top of the tilt bob should be INSIDE the ring, at least a little. The way you have it, you might as well take it off.

Here's a video showing correct installation of a tilt bob:

#807 7 months ago

Are the side rails wood or metal on this?

#810 7 months ago

They're wood. Verified on my Luci VE.

-2
#811 7 months ago

New pinside link - old one timed out.
2 left.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/acdc-lighted-roof-mod

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Added 7 months ago: DownVoters - cut a guy a break - I had to repost as the previous link timed out.

70+ happy customers to-date! Great mod baby

#812 7 months ago

Thanks, guys. Needed to know for the Cliffys order.

#813 7 months ago

Color DMD finally came in. Do I need anything else to mount it?

#814 7 months ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

Color DMD finally came in. Do I need anything else to mount it?

Did you get the standoff kit with it?

#815 7 months ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

Color DMD finally came in. Do I need anything else to mount it?

The foam gasket that takes up the extra 3/4" created around the screen from the standoff kit, preventing light bleed and behind the screen dust, but that's still a few weeks away.

#816 7 months ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

Did you get the standoff kit with it?

No, I’m doing the job for a friend and all he ordered was the color DMD. So I need some kind of stand off also?

#817 7 months ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

No, I’m doing the job for a friend and all he ordered was the color DMD. So I need some kind of stand off also?

Yes, the cabinet uses metal screws that are attached to the backbox display. If you tried to install without some metal standoffs, two screws would go through the screen. You can order their kit, or just use a handful of these, if you have some laying around. Note, I just grabbed the first pic I could find, these may not be the size you need.

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#818 7 months ago
Quoted from parabol420:

Yes, the cabinet uses metal screws that are attached to the backbox display. If you tried to install without some metal standoffs, two screws would go through the screen. You can order their kit, or just use a handful of these, if you have some laying around. Note, I just grabbed the first pic I could find, these may not be the size you need.

Plus it comes with a clear dmd shield

#819 7 months ago

Love it even more the 3rd time around!!!!! Plays lightening fast and packed with plenty of clear window goodness. Completes the Stern domination of my collection (well apart from Flash, but it gets an honorary Steve Ritchie place next to SW and AC/DC).

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#820 7 months ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Love it even more the 3rd time around!!!!! Plays lightening fast and packed with plenty of clear window goodness. Completes the Stern domination of my collection (well apart from Flash, but it gets an honorary Steve Ritchie place next to SW and AC/DC).

Wow that is awesome Mark, you have a great lineup !!!

#821 7 months ago
Quoted from robotron:

the ball on the hells bell keeps loosening on me. the bell hits the playfield and jams up. i guess i should use some blue loctite?
anyone have this happening?

It will happen to them all. Be sure to clean threaded hole and threads on shaft with a q-tip with solvent to remove oils. Or the loctite will not set up.

#822 7 months ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Love it even more the 3rd time around!!!!! Plays lightening fast and packed with plenty of clear window goodness. Completes the Stern domination of my collection (well apart from Flash, but it gets an honorary Steve Ritchie place next to SW and AC/DC).

Very nice. Congratulations!

#823 7 months ago
Quoted from Macca101010:

Wow that is awesome Mark, you have a great lineup !!!

Thanks Dave. Each time I decide I need to change a game in my line-up, I go through the hypothetical exercise of putting a coin on each game I want to play at that moment. But I leave it one coin short. Like if I was in an arcade putting a $2 coin to play. Whichever game misses the pick goes. I never deliberately pick Stern. Its just that their games are fun to play and this is what I end up with. I know they're not as well built as BW, JJP or CGC, but when I'm playing them I couldn't give a sh*t. If they're not fun to play, they're not going to get played.

#824 7 months ago

Hey guys, where can I buy replacement 6.3v LEDs for my Luci's GI? There's this white one that's where a red one should be. I looked around for a red one where a white one should be, so I could swap them, but no luck. Thanks in advance.

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#825 7 months ago
Quoted from Rum-Z:

Hey guys, where can I buy replacement 6.3v LEDs for my Luci's GI? There's this white one that's where a red one should be. I looked around for a red one where a white one should be, so I could swap them, but no luck. Thanks in advance.

Marco has some that look similar to the ones that Stern uses:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/LAMP

If this was new, I'd just ask your Dist to have Stern send you another red one.

#826 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

If this was new, I'd just ask your Dist to have Stern send you another red one.

It is new. I may do that. I just thought it may be quicker to order one and get it sent out ASAP.

#827 7 months ago
Quoted from Rum-Z:

It is new. I may do that. I just thought it may be quicker to order one and get it sent out ASAP.

I dunno. Stern tech support has always been pretty fast with small parts that are DOA or die right after I set a machine up. I'd just call Chas in the morning and have your serial number handy. 1-800-KICKERS.

#828 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

I dunno. Stern tech support has always been pretty fast with small parts that are DOA or die right after I set a machine up. I'd just call Chas in the morning and have your serial number handy. 1-800-KICKERS.

Thanks Vireland, I'll contact Chas this morning. Just for future reference, in case anyone wonders some time down the road, it appears that particular Stern GI LED is a Comet brand “Twin 2835 SMD 6.3V AC/DC Intense Brightness – Clear Dome - #44/#47 Bayonet – Red”. Unfortunately, Comet is out of stock, so here's hoping Chas can help.

#829 7 months ago

I was fiddling with the screw on the right spotlight today (the one next to the cannon) and suddenly I jump when Steve Ritchie as the voice of Satan shouts "Ow! That hurts!" I never could get it to happen again. Was that real or am I cracking up?

#830 7 months ago
Quoted from rennervision:

I was fiddling with the screw on the right spotlight today (the one next to the cannon) and suddenly I jump when Steve Ritchie as the voice of Satan shouts "Ow! That hurts!" I never could get it to happen again. Was that real or am I cracking up?

Probably hit the flipper button and got a random attract mode callout.

#831 7 months ago

Has anyone put Mylar on their lower playfield insert? I am really concerned with this area getting scratched to oblivion. One of these mod makers should make a perfectly shaped piece of mylar that covers the lowers playfield insert and edge of the exposed playfield.

#832 7 months ago
Quoted from rennervision:

I was fiddling with the screw on the right spotlight today (the one next to the cannon) and suddenly I jump when Steve Ritchie as the voice of Satan shouts "Ow! That hurts!" I never could get it to happen again. Was that real or am I cracking up?

Cool! "Luci Vault" editions are possessed! It will bring some extra coin on resale

#833 7 months ago

Just a FYI for new buyers, had to level the lower pf window, even after my distributor unboxed and dialed in my Luci. Just put some really thin washers under the rubber bushings. Now it’s conpletely flush. Anyone playing this game and noticing the ball divert bescause of the lower Pf window, means it hasn’t been properly tweaked.

#834 6 months ago

Hey fellow AC/DC Luci VE owners, I'm trying to drum up some customers to go in with me on another run of CPR9999's AC/DC Roof Mod. I think we need a minimum of 10 people to make another run worth his while. Is there anyone who'd like to fill that triangular gap behind their stage with this mod like I would? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/acdc-lighted-roof-mod

#835 6 months ago

Could someone get me the part number for the Luci lower playfield? It would make a good wall hanger if I could get a new one. Thanks

#836 6 months ago

I have a loose flasher (behind the left thunderbolt on the left ramp) that refuses to stay in its socket. As soon as I have a good game going, it comes rolling down the playfield. Hot glue doesn't work. Should I give silicone a try?

#837 6 months ago
Quoted from rennervision:

Should I give silicone a try?

May as well try it. But if hot glue wouldn't stick, I'm not sure anything will.

LTG : )

#838 6 months ago

I used silicone on mine and it worked great for me

#839 6 months ago
Quoted from rennervision:

I have a loose flasher (behind the left thunderbolt on the left ramp) that refuses to stay in its socket. As soon as I have a good game going, it comes rolling down the playfield. Hot glue doesn't work. Should I give silicone a try?

LEDs are especially bad for this, I don't know why.

Use the electrical tape foldover method. It will never fall out again, the fix is invisible and less messy/ugly than silicone.

I made a "how to" subject for it here so it's all in one place instead of hidden in whatever thread I posted it in last:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-led-bulbs-flashers-that-fall-out-of-spotlights#post-4402506

#840 6 months ago

Buy either the Hooked or Pinbits (recommended) lightening flashers and solve all your rogue LED problems, plus get a massive upgrade to whats there. Highly recommended.

#841 6 months ago
Quoted from rennervision:

I have a loose flasher (behind the left thunderbolt on the left ramp) that refuses to stay in its socket. As soon as I have a good game going, it comes rolling down the playfield. Hot glue doesn't work. Should I give silicone a try?

The flashers that come stock with the game are a little rounded at the end where the contacts are and the sides are slightly curved which causes them to slip out IMO.
If you get one that is more square with parallel sides instead they will stop popping out as easy.

This was a concern of mine when I first got my game.
I bought one that was a show special at ZapCon and day one the left flasher had hoped out and was sitting on the play field.
Day two it happened again and by day three that one and the one next to it had both come out multiple times.
For some reason the one on the right was hot glued in and never came out, but these two were not.

Long story short, one of the flashers was broken and mutilated by the end of the show.
I walked over to Firebird pinballs booth and picked up some flashers from them that fit a little more snug and they have not come out since.
Thats been a few weeks now and I've been playing the game daily since.

#842 6 months ago

Same here, just used different bulbs and 300+ plays later they are still in place. No tape or silicone needed.

#843 6 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

LEDs are especially bad for this, I don't know why.
Use the electrical tape foldover method. It will never fall out again, the fix is invisible and less messy/ugly than silicone.
I made a "how to" subject for it here so it's all in one place instead of hidden in whatever thread I posted it in last:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-led-bulbs-flashers-that-fall-out-of-spotlights#post-4402506

Thanks for sharing that photo. I gave that a try and it works like a charm.

#844 6 months ago

I'm still looking for the part number of the Luci lower playfield if anyone can help out. Thanks in advance

#845 6 months ago
Quoted from JoeinNJ:

I'm still looking for the part number of the Luci lower playfield if anyone can help out. Thanks in advance

Give Terry at pinball life a call, I'm sure he can find it.

Or, give chas at Stern a call - 1-800-KICKERS.

#846 6 months ago
Quoted from rennervision:

Thanks for sharing that photo. I gave that a try and it works like a charm.

No problem. It's the best solution for the issue, and I've put it in a number of random threads, which is why I decided to finally just make a thread about that fix alone so it's easier for people to find.

#847 6 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

LEDs are especially bad for this, I don't know why.
Use the electrical tape foldover method. It will never fall out again, the fix is invisible and less messy/ugly than silicone.
I made a "how to" subject for it here so it's all in one place instead of hidden in whatever thread I posted it in last:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-led-bulbs-flashers-that-fall-out-of-spotlights#post-4402506

Stern advises to use a dab of silicone as opposed to the method in the link above which requires you to put stress on the connections by bending them back and forth.

#848 6 months ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Just a FYI for new buyers, had to level the lower pf window, even after my distributor unboxed and dialed in my Luci. Just put some really thin washers under the rubber bushings. Now it’s conpletely flush. Anyone playing this game and noticing the ball divert bescause of the lower Pf window, means it hasn’t been properly tweaked.

Thank you ... my Luci is about a month old. I noticed this issue on the lower PF.

For my lights hoping out behind the lightening bolts, I used painters tape. Have not come out since they were installed.

My only issue is the rubber ring behind the first "T" in "TNT"; I have replaced it 2 times in under a month. I've reached out to Stern for help and it's been spotty at best. Replacing the rubber ring is not that big of deal, but on the screws on the TNT box plastic protector is super tight. I'm afraid to apply too much force. Anyone else had either the TNT Rubber Ring issue or a screw so tight it would not come out without a lot of force?

#849 6 months ago
Quoted from Pinnutz:

Had same problem with my LUCI. Cannon would auto fire. I checked for loose wires. Used my connector tool to re seat all the wires in the connectors leading to the switches on the cannon. Took the opto board off and looked for cold solder joints. You could see the problem in test mode. It would make switch 62 (opto) but as it stroked thru the opto you would see a glitch where the switch wasn't being made for a split second. That is what was causing the ball to fire but I couldn't get rid of it. The problem would come and go so I called Stern. The Tech told me to adjust the the opto board so that the gap was even between the blade and the opto. All I did was loosen it up (again) and push it to one side (to the right) while I tightened it back up. Hasn't done it since. The amount of adjustment can't be more than the clearance on the screw hole but I guess it was enough. Been solid for a couple weeks now so hopefully the problem is solved.

This answer above, on adjusting the opto board is extremely appreciated! Thanks Pinnutz! I had the same problem chronically with the cannon auto firing and it was really bumming me out. So far, so good! And now I know where to adjust if it starts happening again. THANKS

#850 6 months ago

i really dig my acdc ve luci. its the pin that kept me in the hobby. so far its been really reliable. very fun to play.

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