Quoted from LTG:Power supply for Spike System games ? AC/DC is SAM System
LTG : )
Spike power supply mounts on four posts in a much wider configuration, so probably not that. Probably an aux board for one of the machines.
Quoted from LTG:Power supply for Spike System games ? AC/DC is SAM System
LTG : )
Spike power supply mounts on four posts in a much wider configuration, so probably not that. Probably an aux board for one of the machines.
Quoted from PinMonk:Spike power supply mounts on four posts in a much wider configuration, so probably not that. Probably an aux board for one of the machines.
Interested in finding out. I have a VE premium so not sure. Anyone have a 2012 acdc premium or LE that can take a peak and let us know.
Added over 6 years ago:
Check out the roof mod installed by a fellow pinsider!
Also a few of these left... band roof mod...then gone for good!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/acdc-roof-band-mod-lighted
Quoted from xsonics2k2:Make sure your bell is screwed in all the way. If it unscrews slightly, it will trap the ball as you described. I blught some loccktight to help keep it in.
Also, what is the pitch of your playfield? 6.5? Seems like anything less than 6.5 *may* have an effect on the ball getting stuck there.
I'm also having an issue with the spinner. I tried swapping out the screw to the right with a flat screw, but that didn't help. It almost looks like I need to bend the arm that holds the spinner so it rests vertically instead of at a 45 degree angle as it sits right now.
Looks like I have little less than 6.5 pitch. But solved it with a thin furniture pad.
My spinner is good now after I bent the arm horizontal.
Only issue I have now is the flippers are sticky sometime when holding the ball. Drops with a little nudge. Or hitting the button again.
Quoted from Eldritch:Only issue I have now is the flippers are sticky sometime when holding the ball. Drops with a little nudge. Or hitting the button again.
Flipper buttons need cleaning ?
LTG : )
Quoted from TimeBandit:Of course it will be Sam. All VEs are original board set. It just came up.
and the original power switch under the right side of the playfield where it belongs
Quoted from cpr9999:Interested in finding out. I have a VE premium so not sure. Anyone have a 2012 acdc premium or LE that can take a peak and let us know.
old backbox is different (wood) vs new metal. VE has new backbox style not the old style.
Quoted from ctozzi:I got my NIB Luci Vault last week and opened in up and set it up this tuesday. It took 1 game to find the lower playfied super low causing every ball to fly all over or it changing the path of the ball. I also noticed the T10 screws stripped out like some tech at Stern over torqued them. I Can't say I'm very happy for a 7Kish NIB game showing up with this sort of an issue. I emailed Chas and he's sending all new T10 screws, however the lower playfield lowness is unacceptable IMO. I bought the #6 washers like an above post and it fixed 75% of the issue but there are still a few areas that are not flush and I don't know what to do now. I don't really feel like I gotta dick around with this if it's a NIB. I had an original Premium back in 14' or whenever they came out and didn't have to do anything except address the SDTM issue. If this doesn't get better I'm going to request a more drastic measure from Stern.
This is a huge problem for them. They may have to ship some sort of multi-size leveling kit as it seems everyone is at different levels. I think the rubber compresses over time, so level today... off kilter tomorrow after some play.
...shame
Quoted from Rum-Z:Hello fellas. I got my AC/DC Luci VE today, and luckily it's pretty much perfect cosmetically. There was only a couple of assembly errors I'm correcting. One of them is the clear plastic stack behind the TNT handle. It's got 3 plastic spacers that appeared to be out of order, as it was bent to the point of starting to stress crack the plastic. Can someone please get a clear picture of how this plastic stack is supposed to be assembled? Thanks in advance! Here's a pic of the plastic stack pulled out of my game with the tiny spacer that was in the middle removed:
I think it's supposed to be bent to prevent a ball from geting stuck
Quoted from SPAMP:I think it's supposed to be bent to prevent a ball from geting stuck
Yeah, that does seem to be the intent of the bending the plastics via the use of the spacers. I've got a lot of the playfield's topside components off while I install Cliffy's and plastic protectors, so I may do some experimentation with some other combination of spacers that still allow a ball to roll off without having that plastic stack be so bent up. If it doesn't work, I'll just stick the stock spacers back in.
Quoted from Rum-Z:Yeah, that does seem to be the intent of the bending the plastics via the use of the spacers. I've got a lot of the playfield's topside components off while I install Cliffy's and plastic protectors, so I may do some experimentation with some other combination of spacers that still allow a ball to roll off without having that plastic stack be so bent up. If it doesn't work, I'll just stick the stock spacers back in.
Please post your findings. Mine is stresses pretty bad.
Quoted from Rum-Z:Yeah, that does seem to be the intent of the bending the plastics via the use of the spacers. I've got a lot of the playfield's topside components off while I install Cliffy's and plastic protectors, so I may do some experimentation with some other combination of spacers that still allow a ball to roll off without having that plastic stack be so bent up. If it doesn't work, I'll just stick the stock spacers back in.
That whole setup looks goofy as heck on mine as well, so I decided to stop by Blainbrook and check out their original run Ac/dc Prem and the plastics appear the same as ours. Picture isn’t the greatest, but the plastics are just as wavy as what’s on my machine. I guess I’ll see if there something to be done when I install my cliffys too.
Spinner issue update:
So it looks as though the spinner hanger is touching a screw on the right hand side. Note the deep groove the spinner has worn into the screw over time. Adjusting the screw to the right helps a bit but does not solve this design flaw. A flat screw might do the trick.
Pic 1: Screw wear
Pic 2: Spinner / Screw touching
Pic 3: super close up of Spinner touching screw
If you are interested in Dynamite mod please go here and put in your comments. Thx
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/acdc-premium-club/page/23
anybody here change their speakers over yet?
was wondering if it made a difference i think stern upgraded these speakers on the ve.
I posted this photo in a separate thread about my Luci. Just want to be sure this is normal and maybe some other owners can help me out.
Are the two cables I have circled supposed to be connected to anything? (Or are they supposed to be loose like that?)
Also - while installing the shaker motor I noticed a ground wire was traveling right through the spot where it screws in. (Never seen that before.) Are people installing the shaker motor directly over the ground wire or should I move the wire out of the way somehow?
Quoted from robotron:anybody here change their speakers over yet?
was wondering if it made a difference i think stern upgraded these speakers on the ve.
External sub is awesome - haven't done it yet to luci but did on my others
Quoted from rennervision:I posted this photo in a separate thread about my Luci. Just want to be sure this is normal and maybe some other owners can help me out.
Are the two cables I have circled supposed to be connected to anything? (Or are they supposed to be loose like that?)
Also - while installing the shaker motor I noticed a ground wire was traveling right through the spot where it screws in. (Never seen that before.) Are people installing the shaker motor directly over the ground wire or should I move the wire out of the way somehow?
Ground wire is fine - you can put it right on top. Those connectors are always there - probably for a bill acceptor
Thanks. I've had some issues getting things up and running though. Was finally able to test things out and at first I thought my fire button wasn't working. Well... turns out it is (and works fine in the switch test) but I pretty much have to hit it immediately. If I wait until the cannon is aiming at the AC/DC targets it flat out doesn't work.
Anyone know why?
Quoted from rennervision:Thanks. I've had some issues getting things up and running though. Was finally able to test things out and at first I thought my fire button wasn't working. Well... turns out it is (and works fine in the switch test) but I pretty much have to hit it immediately. If I wait until the cannon is aiming at the AC/DC targets it flat out doesn't work.
Anyone know why?
probably the position switches on the unit. They may need to be adjusted
Quoted from WeirPinball:probably the position switches on the unit. They may need to be adjusted
Sorry - I'm not entirely clear on what I need to do at this point. In the cannon motor test I have the full range of movement and at every point I stop the motor the fire button registers in the switch test. But in-game it's basically fire right away and miss or wait and lose the ability to use the fire button.
Quoted from rennervision:I posted this photo in a separate thread about my Luci.
One is for bill validator. The other, have you checked if it goes to the fire button on your lockdown bar ?
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:One is for bill validator. The other, have you checked if it goes to the fire button on your lockdown bar ?
LTG : )
Yeah - my original thought was maybe the other one had something to do with the fire button. But now that I've got the game up and running the fire button registers fine in the switch test. It just doesn't work unless I hit it right away in-game and basically miss any shot I wanted to make.
There is a diagnostic test under ac/dc option called gun - make sure only sw 61 is activated at home and only 62 when it swings a bit left. also make sure your loaded switch on the cannon stays activated with the ball in as it swings
Quoted from WeirPinball:There is a diagnostic test under ac/dc option called gun - make sure only sw 61 is activated at home and only 62 when it swings a bit left. also make sure your loaded switch on the cannon stays activated with the ball in as it swings
So it starts off with switch 61 active like you said. I change to switch 62 and it moves only slightly left. Then I switch back to 61 and it contnues to swing all the way to the left and then back to home. Is that normal?
Also - switch test indicates a loaded ball is detected no matter what angle I have the cannon.
Sounds like your 61/62 might not be working right. 62 should be active when it swings completely left. That is what lets the ball fire so you don't break the ramp
Quoted from rennervision:Thanks. I've had some issues getting things up and running though. Was finally able to test things out and at first I thought my fire button wasn't working. Well... turns out it is (and works fine in the switch test) but I pretty much have to hit it immediately. If I wait until the cannon is aiming at the AC/DC targets it flat out doesn't work.
Anyone know why?
I had some really weird issues with my Luci. Basically the same issue with the cannon. It would auto fire and say that I never hit the button. Then miraculously started working again. Then both ramps were not registering, then also like a miracle, started working after a few days. Has me worried a bit as it doesn't seem like a mechanical issue (switch).
Good luck. Some people say to clean the opto switches and that will solve the issue. Mine corrected before I had a chance too.
Quoted from cpr9999:Hi, can someone take a close up picture of the plastic to the right and in back of the Bell. It is a 3 pieces of plastic together with black posts and 2 screws. I installed cliffy and forgot the orientation. For premium machine.
Thx
Glass on, but this should give you the idea...
I'm unfortunately still trying to get my cannon working right. In the switch test it recognizes switch #61 (home position) just fine. it then barely moves left before triggering #62 and stopping. (Which means I only have a one-second window where I'm allowed to fire.) The original thought was that something might be wrong with the opto interrupter board. So I removed that and cleaned it twice.
But then I realized the cannon stops when the optic beam is broken. As the cannon rotates, under the playfield there's a piece that rotates around until it naturally breaks this beam. The photo below shows the exact moment this happens and this occurs when the cannon has barely moved left.
So I'm real confused now. How is everyone else getting their cannon to rotate all the way to the left before triggering #62? I mean, is the part underneath my cannon put together wrong or something? Is switch #62 supposed to trigger after this blade passes all the way through the opto beam?
I took a better picture to describe what I was saying. You can see how switch #62 is triggered once this blade-looking thing passes through the optical beam.
And actually - right after I took that picture the cannon started working correctly. I can now fire at any point when it's operational. The switch test is still the same - cannon barely moves left to trigger #62. But based on these photos I'm sure that's the correct behavior. So beats me why it wasn't working. Or why it works now.
Switch 62 should come on right as it swings left but should stay on when you move to 61 until close to the end. Last thing to check is if the switch blades in the lockdown switch are close enough to reliably close when you push the button.
Quoted from rennervision:I took a better picture to describe what I was saying. You can see how switch #62 is triggered once this blade-looking thing passes through the optical beam.
And actually - right after I took that picture the cannon started working correctly. I can now fire at any point when it's operational. The switch test is still the same - cannon barely moves left to trigger #62. But based on these photos I'm sure that's the correct behavior. So beats me why it wasn't working. Or why it works now.
Well on my Pro Vault, there was an LED mounted in a bad spot that shone into the opto. So there were times when that Lane was lit, the cannon wouldn't fire. The fix was to move the LED. It's possible this is a similar thing.
It was crazy figuring it out, because it only happened when a certain lamp was lit.
Well, like I said, it's working now. I didn't do anything, but it's working. Beats me how it got fixed.
Quoted from rennervision:Well, like I said, it's working now. I didn't do anything, but it's working. Beats me how it got fixed.
Yep, same thing happened to me with cannon, then ramps. Not very comforting because there must be a fault somewhere.
Had same problem with my LUCI. Cannon would auto fire. I checked for loose wires. Used my connector tool to re seat all the wires in the connectors leading to the switches on the cannon. Took the opto board off and looked for cold solder joints. You could see the problem in test mode. It would make switch 62 (opto) but as it stroked thru the opto you would see a glitch where the switch wasn't being made for a split second. That is what was causing the ball to fire but I couldn't get rid of it. The problem would come and go so I called Stern. The Tech told me to adjust the the opto board so that the gap was even between the blade and the opto. All I did was loosen it up (again) and push it to one side (to the right) while I tightened it back up. Hasn't done it since. The amount of adjustment can't be more than the clearance on the screw hole but I guess it was enough. Been solid for a couple weeks now so hopefully the problem is solved.
the ball on the hells bell keeps loosening on me. the bell hits the playfield and jams up. i guess i should use some blue loctite?
anyone have this happening?
Quoted from robotron:the ball on the hells bell keeps loosening on me. the bell hits the playfield and jams up. i guess i should use some blue loctite?
anyone have this happening?
Yep. Just happened to mine on day 2 of playing it.
Quoted from robotron:the ball on the hells bell keeps loosening on me. the bell hits the playfield and jams up. i guess i should use some blue loctite?
anyone have this happening?
just happened to me tonight!
Quoted from robotron:the ball on the hells bell keeps loosening on me. the bell hits the playfield and jams up. i guess i should use some blue loctite?
anyone have this happening?
Happend to me twice.
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:just happened to me tonight!
jeeze now i feel like i gave youse da maloik
gotta get one of these for luci:
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